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mtaylor

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Everything posted by mtaylor

  1. mtaylor
    By car? Aircraft? By car, I have a PT cruiser without the back seats installed. I have an old table with very short legs I use on my work bench. Flip it upside down and line that with bath towels over the legs and accoss the bottom. Fits very nicely in the back end. I've done two moves using this and no damage. I've also done it using rolled towels (again in the back end). Some use the towel method on the back seat. The key is bracing with towel rolls so it doesn't move or wobble.
  2. mtaylor
    I'll qualify my post above Bob's... I always try to use the lowest possible speed on any rotary hand tool. If' there's not enough torque, I'm using too much pressure.
  3. mtaylor
    I just used PVA straight from the container but then my current build is the first one I've done in a long time that was double planked. I would think it depends on the length of the plank and how quick you can apply the glue and set it into place before it starts setting up. The other issue is that water may cause the plank to "warp" away from where it will be applied to the first layer. Depends on how much water you use to thin it. If you have extra planking, test to see what happens.
  4. mtaylor
    I have one of their corded types and it's now my goto rotary tool. Light multiple speeds, but it does have low torque. For bits, I have pile like what Gaeton shows (bottom photo) and also a large selection of dental burrs that I found on Fleabay. The burrs are perfect for carving work.
  5. mtaylor
    Got the camera back yesterday but too busy with other things. I'm sorting out the gangways. Seems to "alternative" ways of assembling them and I think i'm going with the "do the knees first" and then the other items. A bit of painting and some fettling of parts are in order. Here's a couple of photos showing where I'm at. Ignore the mess as it's very much a work in progress.
  6. mtaylor
    I agree with Druxey. If there's mould on the outside, there's probably a boat load (pun intened) on the inside and that's a real problem to get rid of.
  7. mtaylor
    At some point they had a way to do it as eventually as they filled balls with powder and short fuse.
  8. mtaylor
    Ah... headless horseman. The stuff of nightmares. LOL
  9. mtaylor
    Love the "helper" sitting there patiently.. The framing is coming along nicely.
  10. mtaylor
    Better it was "soup" than "soap". I'll go quietly to find an open chair for this.
  11. mtaylor
    Well, the basic rule of thumb is to start with minimal rigging. I'd say, start the Dana and a build log and go from there. Others will suggest the ModelExpo beginner's models which starts with one with no rigging. Billing's kits can be daunting for sure but as Chris said, do a search in the kit logs area as you can learn a lot from them.
  12. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Daniel. Do feel free to open a build log for your model. It's a great way to get help and meet others.
  13. mtaylor
    This dio will be epic, OC.
  14. mtaylor
    Mark, You might check with Dafi and see if he has or knows someone who knows the answers. He's seem pretty knowledgable and is doing a deep dive on the Vic if you haven't seen his log.
  15. mtaylor
    I've used this phrase myself. I do have a question.... what does the winner win? Is there a trophy? A participation medal?
  16. mtaylor
    Just time and the purchase price. It is a good way to learn though rather than using a large expensive kit. My first rigged model was the old Scottish Maid from AL. It was just couple of steps (hindsight says "big steps") between that and my next which was the Wasa. Back then, there was no MSW, so no one could I ask questions to.
  17. mtaylor
    Welcome to MSW, Open a topic and post your photos of your uncle's models in Nautical General Discussion area. And if you're starting a model, open a build log.
  18. mtaylor
    Good one, Glen. Camera should be back by Saturday. Needed a part and a good cleaning internally.
  19. mtaylor
    Very well done for parts microscopically small. The muffin cups are a good idea. I went a slightly different route and found plastic "snack cups" that come with lids. Leave the lid off and they too can be staked. I tend to use the lids as every so often, one gets "bumped" and parts scatter on the work bench.
  20. mtaylor
    Good solution on the sanding stick. You might also look into the bendable fingernail files. Usually both sides have the sanding media over a "foam" core. Reasonably stiff yet flexible and available in a wide variety of grits. I found the best way to buy them is from a beauty supply shop as they cost less than from other shops.
  21. mtaylor
    I would think that if (big if) they were interestred in customer service, the "no image online" should be expanded to a reference. Or, it's also possible that it's also acting as a place holder for future expansion. Then again.... who knows?
  22. mtaylor
    The build continues but the log is on hold. The camera died and it at the shop for repairs. Cheaper to repair than buy a new one.
  23. mtaylor
    Beautiful work on a rare bird, Javlin.
  24. mtaylor
    I'm wondering the same thing as OC about the resin. Is it possible to increase the cross-sections of the parts a bit ? May not be 100% scale but I'm thinking strength at this point. The new one you just posted does look great.
  25. mtaylor
    Thanks for the explanation, EG. Hopefully, you can get this sorted without ripping out your hair and indulging is strong drink (as WC Fields might say).

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