archjofo

@druxey Hello, thank you for your words of appreciation. @Dowmer @Dziadeczek I would like to thank you both very much for the important advice. It helps me further.

@Jorge Diaz O Hello, I am particularly pleased with your last post. I would like to thank you very much for that. Hello, and here it goes on: Fore topgallant stay - Étai petit mât de perroquet In preparing to make the fore topgallant stay, the following question needs clarification and I hope for your expert assistance to clarify it: In the monograph for La Créole, a diameter of 40 mm is given for the fore topgallant stay, not only in the overview with rigging plan but also in the text. The fore topmast stay has a diameter of 41 mm. In this respect, the fore topgallant stay with a diameter of 40 mm seems to me to be much too thick. In my opinion, the stay should be be much thinner, perhaps around 19 mm in diameter. What do you think?

@GrandpaPhil @Gahm @allanyed Many thanks for the nice comments und all the others for the LIKES. Fore topmast stay - Étai petit mât de hune According to my announcement in the last post, I am dealing with the topmast stays. So I prepared the assembly for the fore topmast stay. According to my original assumption that a left-hand rope was used here, this is obviously not the case according to my current research. The stay had a diameter of 41 mm in the original, which corresponds to 0.85 mm in model scale. The fore topmast stay is attached in the same way as the main stay. This requires an open eye. The two legs are spliced into the stay. Finally, the ends receive spliced-in eyes, which then receive a lashing, as can be seen in the following picture. For comparison, I have laid a rope next to it that corresponds to the mainstay. The fore topmast stay was routed on the starboard side of the bowsprit top via stay sheave to the bow for fastening by means of thimble and eyebolt. The area of the stay that was led around the sheave was served. Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime Source: Original model in the Musée de la Marine Paris The lashings for the fore topmast stay have to be applied directly to the model, as it is then no longer possible to pass the rope through the sheave cleat. The next picture shows the eyebolt with thimble of the stay attachment on the forecastle. Here you can see the guidance of the stage over the side sheaves with the served areas. The last picture shows the fore topmast stay on the topmast crosstrees. To be continued ...

@mbp521 Hi Brian, thank you for your nice comment and thank you to all the others for the many LIKES. Here is the continuation of my report: I imitated the leather lining of the caps accordingly.I use real leather with a thickness of approximately 0.25 mm. I split the thinnest leather I could buy with my own device.

@Jorge Diaz O @Hubac's Historian @Gahm @md1400cs @Roger Pellett @albert Hello, there still seems to be interest in my construction report. Thank you for your nice comments and also for the many LIKES. I am very happy about that and it gives me further motivation for the next sections. I would like to express my sincere thanks for this. But let's continue here. I was able to finish the double blocks for the breast backstays in the meantime. And here is an overview of the back stays of the La Créole: The Shifting Backstays are already in preparation. More about that soon.

@Roger Pellett Hi Roger, you do not need to apologise for your interest in my construction report. I am therefore happy to answer your question. I had the castings made by a jewellery foundry in Germany. I made the master patterns from brass myself. These were then cast from brass using the lost wax process. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Hello, La Créole also had breast-backstays and had them on the mainmast and foremast. I am currently making the double blocks (length 6 mm) for the tackles. These will be hooked into an eyebolt on the channel. Here is an attempt to show the leather lining of the hole in the cap. Here I show an example from the L'Hermione.

Hello, in keeping with the theme, a picture from the rigging of the Götheborg II with a sister block:

Hello, today I show a sister block that has already been integrated into the topmast shrouds. Here is a historical example of a sister block shown on the model of the brig l'Esperance from 1810 and a drawing from around the middle of the 19th century.

Hello, today I show the sister blocks that have been made in the meantime. Now also properly integrated, not as incorrectly shown in the last post.

@Gahm Hello, Thomas, many, many thanks for your kind comment. Thank you also to all the others for the many LIKES. Such a response always makes us happy and gives us motivation to continue. Today I would like to report briefly on a small mishap. I thought that I could attach the sister blocks for the topmast shrouds directly to the model. Of course, this does not work. Good thing I haven't tied the lanyards yet. So I will have to remove the topmast shrouds again. Before I do that, I made a prototype for a sister block to see how they will be attached. Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime The one hole is drilled too far in the middle. I will do better than that.

Hi Thomas, wonderful work. Fantastic modeling!

@Dowmer @GrandpaPhil After mounting the main mast backstays, I was surprised to see that they go very close to the top and partly touch it. What happened there? Is the plan wrong? Are the attachment points for the lanyards on the channels incorrect or too far inside? In my search for explanations I found what I was looking for. On the one hand, I read that it apparently often happened that the backstays came too close to the tops, and thus there was a danger of rubbing. And, this is exactly the case with the L'Hermione as well. And, as you can see in the next picture, the backstays were dressed in the critical areas. So this detail would also be cleared up. Accordingly, I will additionally serve the corresponding backstays in the said areas. Finally, I would like to show you the double blocks for the shifting backstays that have been made in the meantime. The smaller double blocks are for the shifting backstays that lead to the mizzen topgallant.

@mbp521 Hello, thank you for your positive comment. I also want to thank the others for the many LIKES. Today I made the standing fore topgallants backstays. For these standing backstays, two on each side of the ship, I make the lanyards from Japanese silk 3x 3, which gives a diameter of 0.40 mm. The backstays are made of rope with a diameter of 0.77 mm, also made of Japanese silk 7 x 3. The dead eyes have a diameter of 3.4 mm. Here you can see the fore top head with the standing backstays: And you can also see the mizzen top backstays. Please note the metal plates for the fids.

Hi Christian, very precise and clean job. I am very interested to see how it will continue.

Hello, before I start, I would like to show the mizzen topmast head with the standing backstays as a supplement to my last report. Contrary to my announcement, I will finish all the standing backstays first. It makes more sense to finish the rigging on one level first and then go upstairs. So I continued with the main topmast backstays. I made these backstays from a rope with ø 0.81 mm (8 x 3 jap. silk YLI). The dead eyes have a diameter of 4 mm). Here you can see the main topmast with the backstays. The double blocks for the shifting backstays are already installed on the channel of the main mast.

@archnav @Mic.fr thank you both for the kind comments. Thanks to the others for all the LIKES, of course. It is always a pleasure to receive such feedback. It motivates me and gives me strength for monotonous work. I have now finished the mizzen topmast backstays for the starboard side. For these standing backstays, two on each side of the ship, I made the lanyards from Japanese silk 4 x 1, which gives a diameter of 0.30 mm. The next step is to attach the shifting backstays for the mizzen topgallant.

Hi Karl, fantastic work !

In the meantime I have finished the mizzen topmast shrouds. I have made the preparations for the mizzen topmast backstays. The implementation will take place soon. Here I show how to determine the diameter of a rope relatively accurately (13,6,41 mm / 20 = 0,67 mm). The picture shows a dead eye with a diameter of 2.8 mm for the tackle to be attached to the mizzen topmast backstays on the channels. You can also see a rope with a diameter of 0.67 mm for the mizzen topmast backstays.

@noel_colledge @Jeronimo Hello, I would like to thank you in advance for your attention, and of course all the others for the many LIKES. I almost forgot the tye blocks for the mizzen topmast. These tye blocks are 5 mm long, so they are smaller than, for example, the main masthead. The double strops are also thinner, but also served. The dead eyes and the block are only shown for size comparison.

@captain_hook @bruce d Thank you very much for your nice comments and to all the others for the many LIKES. In the meantime I am already working on the mizzen topmast shrouds. There the dead eyes have a diameter of only 2.3 m.

@Jorge Diaz O Thank you very much for your positive comment. Also many thanks to all for the many LIKES. In the meantime I have also finished the fore topmast shrouds (ø 0.67 mm). The diameter of the dead eyes is ø 3.1 mm.

Here's a quick update:

@Gahm @giampieroricci @aviaamator @Keith Black Thank you very much for your participation in my project and the motivating announcements. Thank you also to all the others for the LIKES. And here are the latest pictures of the rigging of the topmast shrouds.

Fantastic work !