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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. Think how much popcorn that will be for Mark to bring............😜 OC.
  2. I am biased (just a little bit ) but will follow what ever you build with kean interest. OC.
  3. "Please get the Mossie" heard there are some rather nice kits at that scale.......please please. OC.
  4. Thanks EG, this is what I have / will use (minus the Acrylic tin top coat that I now will not touch with a barge pole) - First (already down) then camo colours, then the Black, followed by the Flat top coat All tamiya Laquar sprays. OC.
  5. Thank you kindly Mike, I am fully relating to that, I think that is what happened a combination of what EG said and yourself - the laquar layer reacted (made worst by heat) with the Acrylic Tamiya top coat semi gloss. What I will do in future - Not mix laquar with Acrylic, and to finish my mossie off - use the two colour laquar tamiya rattle sprays, sort out some decs - put them down again using my micro set and sol, then after about a week or so use the tamiya laquar flat coat but somehow try not to spray it to thick (not that easy with rattle cans). OC.
  6. Thanks Ken, its a clear canvas again ready for masking and spraying. OC.
  7. I know in the European theater the Spit IX was introduced with the more poweful engine, this made it a match for the rather excellent FW190 of the Germans, I assume more poweful spits were shiped out over seas but not sure. OC.
  8. I put the fuselage aside and tuned my attention to the Black paint underneath both stabs and main wing, this was straight forward as they had already been primed, I decided to hand paint these same as I hand painted the other wing, I masked up a few areas on the wing near the flaps - then painted away. I have the stabs done and part of the main wing - I will finish the rest when the paint is dry and hardened. OC.
  9. So after the disaster, the process to try to turn it around started last night by me trying the old trick of using masking tape to pull the damaged decals off, several tries and to my amazement the worst culprits came away without damaging the paint work underneath. So today after a good sleep, I got some fine wet and dry and soapy warm water, and proceded to work on the areas affected, this worked out quite well as the tamiya laquar layers that had been sprayed on with the rattle cans, had actually formed quite a hard layer - so I carried on. When I was happy with the finish the next stage was to mask off and isolate (thas a good word these days) the front section as that was not affected, so with the aid of a plastic bag and tape - it did the job. So this is the fuslage ready to be masked up for the camo colours. OC.
  10. Thank you Edward, I think I have it in hand, read lower....... OC.
  11. Thank you so much for checking that out, like I said to Lou - the restoration is in place, I will explain more lower...... OC.
  12. Thanks mate, reasurance knowing you would do it that way, kind of a busy head at the moment working it out. OC.
  13. Painting wise - what do you guys think is best - paint the camo first by letting a small amount of over spray then mask up and do the Black meaning just the one demarcation line needed. OC.
  14. I think it makes it more interesting to paint seperate assemblies - like mini jobs. OC.
  15. Just a small update - I was able to pull the (now) damaged decals off using masking tape, I was lucky it didn't pull any layers of paint off underneath, so I should now have a fairly good surface (after a light wet n dry) to re paint. OC.
  16. Truly a lesson for future builds - painting with laquars keep it just laquars, painting with Acrylics keep it Just Acrylics , I never use Enamels anymore. OC.
  17. I assumed the Tamiya Rattle cans (I was told they are laquars but for kits) and Acrylic would have been ok, I was told and read to be careful spraying Tamiya rattle can clear coat laquars over decals as they can carck them if to much is sprayed in one go. OC.
  18. If I decide to re paint the rear section - any thoughts on prepping the surface as I dont have any solutions for taking the paint back, would it work just fine wet and drying just to flatten the decs back so fresh paint Tamiya rattle laquar cans can go over the top? OC.
  19. I have just this minute had a got on the tail, I re - applied the X35 by wide brush I worked it in well but smoothly and started to see the cloudyness smoothout and show the dark Black underneath and same in the decal (that is damaged from rubbing) But, after a few minutes letting it dry on its own the cloudyness is coming back only difference is its a gloss cloudyness not flat. OC.
  20. Thanks EG, I will try on the tail first as its a controled area Its Tamiya X35 Semi Gloss Clear it a bit on the thick side but I have no way apart from distilled water to dilute it. OC.
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