Old Collingwood

And  I added  some  fillers  that  where  then  sanded  to  get the  correct  curve to the  beak head,  you  can keep  checking this  with on of the  planks   by gently  following the  profile  of the  frames  - (Both sides  the  same amount)

OC.

I see  now  -  item  num 24  at the  front  -  this  part  -    I think I just  glued them  than  sanded  till  I got a   smooth line  and  checked  for  hight  etc.

OC.

54 minutes ago, tennfox said:

@Old Collingwood how much did you have to sand off of 24? Seems like they are a little too proud.  Did you trim before or after you glued?

24?  not sure  I  understand  what you  mean  as there is only  12 frames.

OC.

I too   remember these  kits   from way back  -  I built  (threw together)   as a  kid  Dracular   and   The Mummy.

OC.

5 hours ago, CDW said:

Thanks Dan.

I have no reference photos to use as a guide for the putty. Modern restored P-51’s show no evidence of the putty so I won’t try to model it now. Maybe on another build when I have reference to work from.

 

 

 

That guy owns some  Stunning planes.

OC.

8 hours ago, Nipper said:

I love looking at your work OC, and I admire and agree with your pursuit of realism. 

 

It looks like you have abandoned the idea of representing the smoke from the firearms.  Certainly, it is very hard to create smoke that is convincing.  Also, if one is going to take realism to its full extent, one would have to include more than the smoke from the muskets and rifles.  How to create the pall of smoke that would have been blowing over the whole battlefield, obscuring your beautifuuly painted figures?!

 

Best to leave that to the paintings, like the one above of LHS.

 

Nipper

Thank you  kindly.    yes  indeed I have seen  a  smokey  over all   scene  in another   forum  builder  using one of those  disco  smoke generators  then  taking the  photos.

OC.

So  today-tomorrow   I will  be  carrying on with  my  flat - top coating  as   I still  have a  few  more French  to add, and possibly  spme more  French  I could  make up  in my stash (will  need  to check)   I aso  have   Colonel Claude Charlet   to  add after  he  has  been  flat coated.

Still  lots  more  to  do  before  the  Big  Finish.

OC.

22 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Yep the last assault before the KGL gave it up...

 

I always thought the French troops looked exhausted in that painting...

 

That's why they lost.... 

 

The reduction of Le Haye Sainte, is one of the dramatic visions of heroism ever seen on the battlefield, on both sides...

Indeed brother, I think  Wellington  was right  in putting the  KGL   in there  as they  where  battle  hardened  troops,  who   would  not  let up  defending the farm.

OC.

This  is similar  to what I am trying to achieve, take no  notice  of the  roof   colours  they  where  Grey slates  not Red tiles.

OC.

Excellent progress  Craig,   i will  be a Stunner   when finished  - love  the idea  about  the  contrast  panels.

OC.

Im in also,   you shoul  have a very  plesent  journey  with  thie  kit  -  its  getting  very good  feedback  as being an excellent  kit  - possibly the  best  1 48  scale   Sea King.

OC.

Superb finish James   -  so  much detail  you  got out of her.

OC.

7 hours ago, tennfox said:

Thanks OC... ive been studying your build a lot since you have a lot of great pictures to go by..  I did notice that towards the end the pictures dont show, only  dead links.  

 

Im still sanding and building on the BHs im finding more spots that are flat, too round, and just bad. 

 

Thanks for all the help, it is EXTREMELY appreciated.

Yes  I think  some of pics  vanished.

OC.

And  still  more added  including  my  KGL mounted  Captain   -  getting there.

OC.

3 hours ago, king derelict said:

Amazing. That’s going to look realistically crowded 

alan

Thank you so much Alan.

OC.

I did a  count  -  I have  nearly  a  Hundread  figures   in my  dio   so far   with about another   Fifty  or  so   still  to  add,  not  to  bad   considering the  space  I have   3ft  by  2ft.

OC.

8 hours ago, tennfox said:

Been working on building up the bulk heads.   They are all kind of wonky.   How are these looking.?  I think I have the length/drop close.  

Like  in my  pic  further  up  I added  some  strips  of wood  in between each frame  -  way  to  do that  is  to  measure the gap  both  port and starboard  and  and  after making sure  the frames  are  true  to the  keel  -  cut and  glue  in place  the  wood  strips  working your way down  each   corresponding  port  and  starboard   frame,  I used  a  block  of wood  that  I knew  was   perfectly  square  and  sat that  where the  frame  met  the   main keel   frame,    that way  you not only  get a  true   frame  to  keel  but also adds  strength  to  the  skeleton stage  of the  build.

OC.

11 hours ago, hamilton said:

Yes - OC has achieved a great result here - if you can get yours looking like this, you'll be ready to move on. You don't have to build them up to the keel. Just to fit along the bearding line - here is an MSW thread that talks about the bearding and rabbet lines - the ships uses as e.g.'s aren't exactly like Greyhound but you will get the principle and general idea from this.

 

 

hamilton

Thank  you  hamilton,   I followed   the  Rabbet  and  Bearding line  info  also  before   doing it   in my build  -  also  the  addition of  extra  fram fillers   helped  alot.

OC.

12 hours ago, hamilton said:

Don't cut the keel!!!! Shim the bulkheads instead - it is easier to take wood off that you've added than to add back wood you've removed, so it is much safer to correct the structural issue you're facing by shimming up the bulkhead edges.

 

When I look at your photos, here's what I see:

 

1. the mid-ships bulkheads look good - they seem to finish touching the top of the bearding line and they look reasonably even.

 

2. Bulkheads 9/10, which you've already modified, now also look good to me - they imply a nice gentle curve for the run aft of the planking

 

3. The last bulkhead forward of the transom looks like it needs trimming up - you'll see that the bottom intersects the bearding line, which it should not do - imagine a curve along the bottom of the bulkheads up to the aft edge of the slot for the transom bulkhead - you need to adjust your bulkheads to fit along that line.

 

4. The 4th bulkhead from the forwardmost one seems to rise too soon - and the 3rd one back is too high for sure and will need to be shimmed like B/H 9/10. There is also a gentle curving of the bearding line up the stem - b/h 1 & 2 in your photo look good, but 3 is way too high to allow for that nice curve you should see at the bows. 

 

Finally - a word of encouragement. This is by far the most difficult and frustrating part of this build. It took me a long time to get through it and this was my 12th wooden ship kit, so I had some experience. Do not give up no matter how frustrating it may get. And do not hold yourself to results that the kit itself may make it really difficult to achieve. 

hamilton

Like  Hamilton   said   -  this  was   the  most   difficult  -  confusing   stage  of  the  build   for  me  -  it took me   days  if not weeks   of  trial  and  error   -  testing  adding   wood  fillers   and   asking  lots  of questions   to  try  to correct  the  errors  in the  kit.

OC.

On 3/16/2024 at 8:56 PM, tennfox said:

It does appear I have to cut the keel off and plane the plywood down and reattach the keel.  The first image is the first and second plank material on the bulk heads.   I believe I need to plane down to the pencil line.   Should that line go straight line the original or does it need to sweep up.?

Man this kit is a challenge. Lucky its wood, you can always glue sand and fill, then redo...

Frame  no12  needs  to  be  sanded   flat  where  it meets  the  keel  (keeping the  natural  curve  but  making its  lower  point  level  with  the  main fraim)   this  way  the  planks  will  follow  a natural  flow  up to  the  rear  when you   start   planking up from the  keel.     Hope  that  makes sense.

Check out  my  pic  showing a  natural  smooth  line   - 

OC.

I picked up a  little  tip  (I am yet to try)   I  was finding  Vallejo Surface Primer  (Black)  dries  with a  slight sheen   and  not a  nice  flat  surface like  other  primers,  so  an idea  floating around  was to  add some  matt  acrylic flat coat  to it,   the idea  is  that any  normal  acrylic  colours  on top  of it  should adhere  better and be  a  proper  flat  shade  (as   Blue  acrylic  on mine  was  not  drying flat  on top of  my  un altered  vallejo primer.

OC.

I have seen this  kit  somewhere  on the  net.

OC.

Evening all,   right  some more  progress  today  -  I   cut away the  bases  on a bout  Ten figures  then  placed them  on the  roadway  and  orchard  then took a  few  pics  (some  with  flash  in darker  conditions)

OC.

I have  been  thinking (steady  boy)   I will    have  some  figures  in my stash  that will  be left over   from my  build,  I  could  do a  couple  of small   dio's   with  what I  have  -  possibly   a  Scots  Grey  (Union  Brigade)   running from a  French  Polish  Lancer,   and   even  a   French  Imperial  Guard   facing off  aganst  the  Britsh  Guards.

OC.

Lovely work Jack   - really  unusual.

OC.