Don

The USS Des Moines class heavy cruiser was the largest heavy cruiser ever built.  It is similar to the Baltimore class except bigger and only 1 stack.  The main difference is the Des Moines class has automatic 8” guns using an encased powder.  These guns did not use bagged powder that was normally used in guns this large.  The guns were capable of about 12 rounds per minute per barrel compared to the Baltimore class at about 6 rounds per minute. 
I am building this model for my dad which served on this ship from 1958-59 and has always wanted a model.  I am finally getting enough time to give it a good go so hopefully it will all work out.   The model is large about 88 inches (around 7.5 feet).  Even at that size the scale is relatively small compared to the scale we traditionally build wooden ships.  The reason I choose this scale is because I just hate working in a smaller scale than this.  So he had a choice this big or no model at all.  
 
The first thing in starting the model was get some plans, most came from the Floating Dry Dock some time ago, scan them and inserted into CAD.  It took a while to get them all sized and aligned properly.  After doing that I found many errors in some of the drawings that took some time to get corrected. 
 
I then worked on getting the false keel and bulkheads printed out and cut up.  The bulkheads that I had reliable information on and was fairly certain were correct; this was not a large enough number to make a sturdy hull.  I then had to work backwards after that to get the shape of the remaining bulkheads.  I did this by drawing in two bulkheads in between the ones I was certain of.  I did all the drawings in CAD; this was a trial and error type of process that took some time.  I then print them out, made a foam board template, temporary gluing them in place and started fairing them out.  After I got some faired out I then used them as a pattern and cut out the bulkheads in plywood and glued in place.  I started at the stern and worked my way up to the bow.  I used ¼” Baltic birch plywood for both the keel and bulkheads.  This was a fairly lengthy process but I am real happy with the results so far.
 
I am presently working on the planking which is going along at a steady pace, just a lot of it.  The planks are fastened to the bulkheads with glue and pin nails using an air nailer.  It works great for this as it will all be filled and covered with a polyester resin.  I am using 1/16” wood for the planking, mostly basswood but some beech was used also.  I had some leftover beech so I used what I could on this then switched to basswood which I have a lot of.  It does not matter what wood is used it will all get covered and painted.  I am hoping to finish the planking sometime after the first of the year.
 
 

Basic starting point
 


Template process
 

working my way forward with making new bulkheads
 

Bulkheads and reinforcing the keel complete, just for size comparison the Arm Virginia Sloop sitting on top
 


Planking to this point
 
 
Don
 
 

The USS Des Moines class heavy cruiser was the largest heavy cruiser ever built.  It is similar to the Baltimore class except bigger and only 1 stack.  The main difference is the Des Moines class has automatic 8” guns using an encased powder.  These guns did not use bagged powder that was normally used in guns this large.  The guns were capable of about 12 rounds per minute per barrel compared to the Baltimore class at about 6 rounds per minute. 
I am building this model for my dad which served on this ship from 1958-59 and has always wanted a model.  I am finally getting enough time to give it a good go so hopefully it will all work out.   The model is large about 88 inches (around 7.5 feet).  Even at that size the scale is relatively small compared to the scale we traditionally build wooden ships.  The reason I choose this scale is because I just hate working in a smaller scale than this.  So he had a choice this big or no model at all.  
 
The first thing in starting the model was get some plans, most came from the Floating Dry Dock some time ago, scan them and inserted into CAD.  It took a while to get them all sized and aligned properly.  After doing that I found many errors in some of the drawings that took some time to get corrected. 
 
I then worked on getting the false keel and bulkheads printed out and cut up.  The bulkheads that I had reliable information on and was fairly certain were correct; this was not a large enough number to make a sturdy hull.  I then had to work backwards after that to get the shape of the remaining bulkheads.  I did this by drawing in two bulkheads in between the ones I was certain of.  I did all the drawings in CAD; this was a trial and error type of process that took some time.  I then print them out, made a foam board template, temporary gluing them in place and started fairing them out.  After I got some faired out I then used them as a pattern and cut out the bulkheads in plywood and glued in place.  I started at the stern and worked my way up to the bow.  I used ¼” Baltic birch plywood for both the keel and bulkheads.  This was a fairly lengthy process but I am real happy with the results so far.
 
I am presently working on the planking which is going along at a steady pace, just a lot of it.  The planks are fastened to the bulkheads with glue and pin nails using an air nailer.  It works great for this as it will all be filled and covered with a polyester resin.  I am using 1/16” wood for the planking, mostly basswood but some beech was used also.  I had some leftover beech so I used what I could on this then switched to basswood which I have a lot of.  It does not matter what wood is used it will all get covered and painted.  I am hoping to finish the planking sometime after the first of the year.
 
 

Basic starting point
 


Template process
 

working my way forward with making new bulkheads
 

Bulkheads and reinforcing the keel complete, just for size comparison the Arm Virginia Sloop sitting on top
 


Planking to this point
 
 
Don
 
 

The USS Des Moines class heavy cruiser was the largest heavy cruiser ever built.  It is similar to the Baltimore class except bigger and only 1 stack.  The main difference is the Des Moines class has automatic 8” guns using an encased powder.  These guns did not use bagged powder that was normally used in guns this large.  The guns were capable of about 12 rounds per minute per barrel compared to the Baltimore class at about 6 rounds per minute. 
I am building this model for my dad which served on this ship from 1958-59 and has always wanted a model.  I am finally getting enough time to give it a good go so hopefully it will all work out.   The model is large about 88 inches (around 7.5 feet).  Even at that size the scale is relatively small compared to the scale we traditionally build wooden ships.  The reason I choose this scale is because I just hate working in a smaller scale than this.  So he had a choice this big or no model at all.  
 
The first thing in starting the model was get some plans, most came from the Floating Dry Dock some time ago, scan them and inserted into CAD.  It took a while to get them all sized and aligned properly.  After doing that I found many errors in some of the drawings that took some time to get corrected. 
 
I then worked on getting the false keel and bulkheads printed out and cut up.  The bulkheads that I had reliable information on and was fairly certain were correct; this was not a large enough number to make a sturdy hull.  I then had to work backwards after that to get the shape of the remaining bulkheads.  I did this by drawing in two bulkheads in between the ones I was certain of.  I did all the drawings in CAD; this was a trial and error type of process that took some time.  I then print them out, made a foam board template, temporary gluing them in place and started fairing them out.  After I got some faired out I then used them as a pattern and cut out the bulkheads in plywood and glued in place.  I started at the stern and worked my way up to the bow.  I used ¼” Baltic birch plywood for both the keel and bulkheads.  This was a fairly lengthy process but I am real happy with the results so far.
 
I am presently working on the planking which is going along at a steady pace, just a lot of it.  The planks are fastened to the bulkheads with glue and pin nails using an air nailer.  It works great for this as it will all be filled and covered with a polyester resin.  I am using 1/16” wood for the planking, mostly basswood but some beech was used also.  I had some leftover beech so I used what I could on this then switched to basswood which I have a lot of.  It does not matter what wood is used it will all get covered and painted.  I am hoping to finish the planking sometime after the first of the year.
 
 

Basic starting point
 


Template process
 

working my way forward with making new bulkheads
 

Bulkheads and reinforcing the keel complete, just for size comparison the Arm Virginia Sloop sitting on top
 


Planking to this point
 
 
Don
 
 

It has taken several years!... but I am finally ready to start on my first major scratch build project. For those who have forgotten this will be a 1:64 scale model of HBM Amphion a 36 gun English frigate from the Napoleonic Wars.
 
Plans and general research has existed up to this point in this topic here
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/259-hbms-amphion-1798-32-gun-18pdr-frigate/
 
Which I thought I would leave in place as opposed to copying over. Any historical gumpf can then go there allowing this to be more build orientated.
 
 
Before starting this project I have decided to set myself some ground rules (following the eminently copyable example of   Ed  from whose book  much of the the following list is 'adjusted')
 
Measure twice then cut once - often easier said than done for me this will usually mean thinking closely about what I am trying to do before doing it. Use the correct tool for the job - Thankfully I have built up a wide range of tools that should make this easier. Keep tools sharp including marking pencils - My habit of grabbing any old pencil must be resisted Clean up immediately - Ed refers to glue and if a modeller of his standard needs to react to glue then I shall have extra work on my hands Dry fit pieces first - seems logical. Don't use test pieces as actual pieces. As an addition to this to actually make test pieces as oppose to using the test piece as the completed erm piece. Mark and indent hole locations before drilling - use templates to reduce hole 'movement' as the eye can often lie When fatigue sets in then stop work - Resist the temptation to 'get something done' - it can always wait especially if something else has just been successfully completed. I tend to rush and put myself under time pressure which then lowers quality. Step away from the model if stressed - If I get to a difficult section then don't run myself into the ground but do something else for a few days and then return in a calmer frame of mind Keep quality consistent - If a piece is not good enough then start again. I am no zealot as far as accuracy (or have not been in the past) this model is requiring a considerably larger portion of my life so I want to increase my standards of operation. Reference other modellers when trouble beckons - this might seem a misnomer to most modellers but historically I have preferred to work stuff out myself rather than use MSW or other sites/books to research. AS with the previous point this model deserves better so if something fails to work at first try check the many excellent resources out there. In reality this will usually be ModelShipWorld forums and the recent spate of excellent books including Ed's HMS Naiad, David Antscherl's Swan Class Series and Allan Yedlinsky's HMS Euryalus  
 
That will do for a start. I expect fairly heavy re-work to occur - especially on the plans but we shall cross those bridges when we come to them.
 
This initial post shall be a somewhat boring one as I have only just completed my building board. For this I decided to copy the Swan Class building board (adjusted to my larger ships size) which has the virtue of being the simplest. I used thick melanin board with beech (I think , it was marked beech but who knows..) runners. My initial attempt to draw the center line was horrifically not crowned with success as though straight it was not level to the sides so I redid it and now have an amusing double fanning line at one end so have to make certain I don't utilise the wrong one.
 

 
Next up I had to place my 'fish' plan on it. After some hassles working out how to get turbo cad to print to size and not adjust the size (I added several L shaped lines to the plans with each line measuring exactly 64 inches thus if scales properly in the printer they should be exactly 1 inch when printed. This was very useful) . For attaching the plans I initially followed the 'Swan' advice to use artists spray (it not being water based) but this was not an unalloyed success possibly because my paper was too thin and it looked rather blotchy plus having had reinforced the center line with red ink several blood like blotches also appeared. Now I fully expect the build to draw blood at some point but can do without bad omens before I have started.
 
After reflecting a bit I decided to take a different approach. I re-printed the plans and re-checked the scale before laminating them (and re-checking the scale post lamination). I then sliced the ends of with a hard edge and a scalpel and glued that to the board with standard glue. The lamination is sturdy enough to resist any depredations from the glue and it has the further advantage of being a cleanable surface. The only thing I will have to be aware of going forward is to ensure that any vertical measurements need to take into account the extra thickness whether on or off the lamination.
 

 
 
Next job is to decide which wood to use for the keel and innards. I have some samples which I plan on practicing the keel joints with and will decide on appearance and ease of use once I have practiced. Past experience tells me it may now be months before I am happy with the result so don't expect particularly quick updates...

Seventynet,
Thank you for the pictures and your comments. Proxxon and Panavise were the two with the most positive comments. I hope your next vise gives you years of trouble-free service. Your input was a big help to all of us who are looking for a good bench vise.
Jazzchip

I figured you didn't follow him exactly from what you said, but I'm certain I'll learn something.  And yes, it ain't basswood. 

Ulises,
 
Ship is looking great! I share your problem of a messy work table. Once I get going on a project, my workroom goes to downhill! I have to force myself to clean up about once a month   
 
Frank

Ah, never mind.
Apparently I bought a copy of the first edition which is out of print. The revised edition has more stuff including structural drawings.
Ordered one from Mystic Seaport eBay site.

Sal, your planking skills are outstanding! Great job with your planking so far. I also like the simulated caulking effect you've put into this.

Greetings to all,
Wouter,
Thanks for your comment about liking the way My Triton is coming along. Hopefully soon I’ll be on the sidelines admiring your Triton.
Tim,
I really appreciate your words. Out of everyone that has “Liked” and/or made comments on my forum, you are by far the most motivated person who actually looks forward to my updates. Once again, thank you.
Bindy,
I totally agree with you in that the mast and spars have significantly changed my Triton’s overall appearance. With the base I’ve made for her today, she stands at 29” high (736.6 mm). As for Woody, what can I say other than he wants to take our act out on the road. LOL.
To All,
While I was waiting for my deadeyes and blocks to arrive, I decided to finish the main topgallant yard which I was avoiding due to the fact that the components were much too small for my hands. Happily I can say that I was able to complete it. I also went ahead and painted the trestle trees and top plus the yards (with the exception of the stuns’l yards) black to give my Triton more personality. The following photos will show you how she looks.

Thanks to everyone for the advice.  I missed an update last week, as other things have gotten in the way, and all I seem to have done on the ship is sand, sand, sand.
 
I faired the bulkheads as best I can, and I'll treat it still as a work in progress, but they seem to look pretty good, using the wood strip as a guide.  I didn't see the need to put in filler blocks everywhere as the bulkheads were pretty stable and I could sand them easily without breaking.
 
I also created two stern filler blocks, as per the instructions.  These I found to be quite difficult to form - a complex 3-D shape.  They are made from blocks of 1x1 1/2 basswood, included in the kit.  I traced the template from the plans on them, and started carving and sanding.  
 
From the photos below, you might tell I did the starboard one first, followed by the port one.  They both have their flaws, but I think I can make them work.  I might need to add wood filler later perhaps, but since I can't quite visualize the run of the planking on them, I going to keep them in place and modify them as needed as planking continues.
 

 

 

 
The next step, according to the instructions, is to add the stanchions to these filler blocks and then the waterways.  I don't think putting free-standing stanchions on right now is a great idea since I'll likely knock them off during planking, etc.  So, I plan to place the first plank, then the waterways, then the wales.  At that point, I should be ready to do the hull planking and after that I can work above deck on the stanchions, etc.  This is essentially the order in the Bob Hunt practicum, of which I just have the sample chapter 1.
 
Andy.

Thanks Mobbsie, Mark and Marc, and all of the "likes".  Continuing on:
 
First Frames - continued
 
The frames pieces were placed over the pattern pieces and clamped in place to a scrap piece of pine board while the pieces were glued on the butt joins.
 

 
Once these had dried, the chocks were fitted into place and after the glue had dried the chocks were first trimmed close using the scroll saw, and then finished on the oscillating spindle sander.  The final step was to put the whole frame through the thickness sander for a couple of light passes to clean them up and bring them down to the finished size of 1//4” thick.
    On first glance these look okay, but on closer inspection you can see that the joints around the chocks are not very good.          As is my way, I pondered on this for a day or two, and then went back to my references (yeah, the ones I should have consulted in the first place!  ).  In reading both Antscherl (The Fully Framed Model - Vol 1) and Tosti (Naiad Frigate - Vol 1), I discovered that while both used slightly different methods for making and installing the chocks, the one thing they had in common was that the chocks were fitted to one side of the futtock scarph first, and then the second side (from the other futtock) was fitted.  It seems pretty obvious in hindsight, but I guess that’s why it’s called hindsight……. Yep, nothing for it but to re-do the frames (again)!   Chocks  
A little more pondering, and I believe I have come up with a mix of methods that should work for me.  The first step was to “standardise” the chocks.  A quick check through the drawings/patterns revealed that all frames have two sizes of chocks, and these sizes are consistent through all of the frames.  The larger chocks have a base of 12mm and the smaller 8mm.  I measured the angle at the apex of the chocks and it too is consistent at 18 degrees either side of the centreline.  As I now had the necessary details for mass production, it was time to well, mass produce…………..
 
I first cut a series of ‘stock’ pieces (12mm and 8mm wide) from a 3” wide sheet of 1/4” pear, cutting across the grain so that in the finished chocks, the grain would run along the length of the chock.  I then set the angle on the mitre gauge of the Byrnes disc sander to 18 degrees.  As this angle is not one of the pre-set angles available, I used a digital protractor to set the angle and locked it in.
 
Each side of the end of the stock piece was sanded on this angle, forming an apex along the centreline.  I tried to be very precise by marking lines various, but in the end discovered that the Mk 1 eyeball, calibrated with the aid of the Optivisor, gave just as accurate results.
 

 

 
The chock was then sliced off on the Byrnes table saw, and the process repeated until I had a pile of lotsa chocks.  Here’s what 136 chocks in two sizes looks like:
 

 
I then went on to re-cut the frame pieces, and that is when a major set-back occurred. Just as I was cutting the last two pieces on the scroll saw, what appeared at first to be a simple blade breakage was subsequently discovered to be the sheering of a 6mm bolt in the Drive Link Assembly.       After a half hour on the phone with a very helpful service guy from Carbatec, I’m still not sure of the way ahead.  He is going to call me back on Monday to let me know if they can get me the replacement parts to repair the machine.  It’s not going to be an easy job either, but the Carbatec guy told me I was going to need to “man up” and strip the machine down to do the job myself! (my wife laughed uproariously at this suggestion - go figure…………  ).
 
It looks like progress will be halted indefinitely while I get this sorted      , although I may use my original frames for some further ‘test-bed’ work.  Currently thinking through the issue of whether or not to show additional fastenings (bolts) in the double frames (as per AOTS) or stick with the simplified representation shown in the plans.  Currently leaning towards adding the extras - some nice examples of this on MSB by both Spanien and Migue. The questions is, what size would be appropriate for these bolts? (grateful for any input here)  I'm thinking of using copper wire as it has the advantage of being able to be blackened in situ using Liver of Sulphur, as has been demonstrated many times by EdT. I have some wire that is 1/32" thick (about 0.8mm), which at 1:48 scale equates to an actual diameter of 1 1/2", so I may give this a go on the "test bed" to see how it looks.

DocBlake, what was the turn around time on your order? I ordered a table saw from Jim a couple of weeks ago and I'm hoping it arrives before Christmas.
 
My wife and I don't normally give each other Christmas presents. We normally take a trip immediately after Christmas and shop for each other during the trip. That way we're ensured of getting exactly what we want. The other day my wife became upset when she found out I had bought her something to go under the tree this year. She scolded me and said she didn't have anything for me for Christmas. I told her "Yes you do. You just haven't seen it yet."
 
Fletch

You've made it further on this kit in a week than I did in 4 months (and it looks great, btw). I just can't wrap my head around the "fairing" of the hull. I've read everything I can find on the subject and for some reason my mind just doesn't get it.

I suspect bucklers were the thing if freeboard were low, making her a 'wet' ship. Otherwise, port coverings on an open deck make no sense.

Hello Christian,
 
I fear to that I can't be a great help for you. But it's nice to see that your project is going on.

Do a search for hand wheel with revolving handle on the net, dozens of companies make these. It may take some time to find the size you need but I'm sure someone out there will make something suitable.

thanks chuck and matrim
downloads received and printed........onwards and upwards!!!!!
i will post some pictures of how i cut the rabbet entirely with hand tools.
looking forward to build.
 
cheers....mick

Thanks again everyone for the comments. Daniel, I have not sanded the interior yet. Tried to do the outside but ran into problems so I moved onto a longboat build. But with a plan figured out I will be getting back to sanding soon.
 
Richard

What you are doing looks great. Can't wait to see more. You might want to play with different feed rates on the last pass or two. Might make for a better finish. That said your finish looked good to me.
Enjoy the build.
 
 
A another person (different site) did a thread on cnc-ing a Sherline mill. He works in metal.
A list of approx costs.
1st cnc stuff $500 - several sites can sell the motors etc under $500.
2nd program free
3rd computer hope that the one that you are reading this on can be used
4th sherline mill about $1,000.
 
Lots of time and some building of the small parts. and it can be done. If you want details on this pm me so this thread is not high jacketed.
 
Later Tim

Be careful of plan distortion as you go! (This subject has been the topic of many other threads on this site.)

So on with my first attempt at planking (Groan). Already I look back at this and curse my efforts. Im sure that remains true for even the most experienced (you can always do it better). Still, it is what it is and I enjoyed doing it and look forward to applying what I have learnt to my next kit.
 
I struggled mainly with two issues.
 
Firstly: clinkering. Is this down to not preparing the bulkheads adequately?
 
Secondly: what type of steelers to use and where?
 
The tapering side got easier as I went , I am starting to get better at this. (He says.)

Thanks all,
 
Very observant. Those plans have shown up in many a picture over the years. The plans are
for the OcCre Cazador Xebec which I have been tinkering with on and off over the last three years.
The hull and deck are planked. I figure at the rate I’m going it will be done sometime in 2016!
 
Hi Chris, Well it’s too early to tell. One thing I know is you don’t have to worry as much about snapping
a frame when they are ½” thick and I swear you could stand on them. Cutting joints and chocks were a
lot easier too but the scroll saw work to cut them out took three times as long and I went through a whole
lot more blades. Another thing is if you make a mistake in a joint it is compounded by the size. What would
be a paper thin gap on the Echo could be very wide on this build.
 
I can see why people would like the larger scale though. We shall see.

The transom timbers became part of the frame for the window openings. Again, the location of the transom windows is based on the Hahn plans. The practicum then instructs you install the transom to the stern before the start of the window construction. Contrary to this, I created window openings while the transom was off the model. I felt I could make cleaner cuts and manipulate the transom easier. In most models of the Rattlesnake there are four windows and a center panel. Mr. Hunt elected not to create the center panel for this model.

The quoin
The quoin is a wedge with a handle used to raise and lower the cannon for aiming. The twenty 3/16” quoins are made from 1/16” x 1/16” stock and trimmed to shape. The Practicum instructs the builder to make the handle from wire and insert it into a drilled hole in the wedge. From pictures of actual quoins I’ve seen, the handles appear to be made from wood. So instead of the wire, I used bamboo drawn through the drawn plate, just like I made the treenails. The picture below shows the progression.