Beef Wellington

However you decide to finish her Jason she will be a stunning model.
I had the same issue about fully rigging a model when I built my Victory, mainly around the space she would take up.
I have always liked  the look of models rigged with just the lower masts and standing rigging, ever since I saw a drawing by Bjorn Landstrom in his book The Ship.

So I finished her on this basis, altho' I did include the Topmasts in the lowered position 'just in case' I decided to return one day to fully rig her. (which won't happen)

Models rigged to this level are far more manageable whilst still allowing some added interest, and the absence of yards makes a huge difference in display options particularly in a domestic setting.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Jason,
 
Just catching up. As has been repeated many times Brilliant work indeed.
 
Regards,

Beautiful work Jason! 
hamilton

My 2 cents ... rigging is the difference between a field goal and a touchdown.  I always hear people say how much detail is on a model and that is what makes it special.  In my opinion rigging is probably the most detailed work of a model.
Tom

Looks great Jason - the bitts came out fantastic!
 
I completely get where you're coming from on the rigging.  Personally I think these models look a lot better fully rigged, but at the same time, the space they take up pretty much triples.  I was surprised once I rigged my Badger how much more space it took - I can only imagine what things look like on a bigger model.  Then of course there is the cost if you want to encase it, which goes up a lot if you need to account for a rigged model.  Not sure that helps you, but I would certainly say that your Jason will looked fantastic rigged or not.

Hi Jason,
 
Splendid work on the bits
Just a thought on "to rig or not to rig, that's the question"
The decision is yours but it's obvious that you succeeded brilliantly in altering lots of features to the hull, the rigging will probably also be subject to improvement. Meaning : as you went already this far, you won't settle for a straight forward built out of the box for rigging matters ( which I was more inclined to do, I admit ). This will of course require a lot of research and trial and error situations, I guess
(For myself : the rigging is not my favorite part)
On the other hand : If you were to go all the way...what a splendid ship, she would be...
My suggestion : why not first complete the rigging on your previous ship. This can only be a positive experience on which you might benefit-presumely- for HMS Jason. Regarding the space issue : family & very close friends are a safe harbor for already completed models. But that is only me speaking.

Jason, I'm prejudiced because I enjoy rigging, but I think the model will look spectacular rigged. 
 
Bob

Thank you Deperdussin1910,
 
A lot of strengths are involved in this puzzle. It is difficult to well balanced everything. The keel was supposed to be straight but it was not. The first method to unglue some spacers between frames was to try to realign the keel with 2 by 4. It did unglue some and helped to realign. I will let everything stabilize and probably unglue some others. We also see how the planking fit on the keel. Limber holes has been traced lower than on drawings and cut.
  

 







 

Wow. I love this bit of the build where the deck - and so the ship - starts to spring to life. It begins to feel like a place you could walk round. Great work.... and an inspiration for when I reach this stage. Love the bitts and manger!

Those bitts look fantastic, Jason. Definitely worth the extra effort.

Bob, I would think its pretty safe to say there must have been treenailing for all the reasons you describe.  I had found the diagram below on the usual trawl for images, hope this is helpful.  The interesting part is that the treenailing is much more extensive (as would perhaps be expected) because of the additional framing beneath the edge of the deck.
 

Hi,
 
So work on Pegasus we be starting again now I have humidity back to normal control, and summer projects put back to bed.
Old counter framing was broken on last house move so it has to be remade.
First order of business was to make a jig to attach to my gantry for the correct alignment and position of new side counter timbers, made out of some poplar and sized so top corners are the correct height from the keel to toptimber level, and width to correspond for correct gap 12'3" ( 3 1/16" full size ).
New side counter timbers were shaped out of 15" thick stock as per TFFM, glued into correct position on wing transom, and pinned through with 20ga copper wire / 5 min epoxy for strength.
Distance between side counter timbers at the upper counter knuckle was checked as well, pretty confident these are in the correct place.
Now to start on the filling timbers and QB light port.
 
ben
 

Thank you Guys,
Moving on...
I used my etched micro saw blade in a scalpel handle to remove the bulkhead centres, mostly went well but a couple of frame extensions broke off above the sheer; easily fixed tho'.
For sanding down the frames I used my minicraft drill to remove the bulk of the material and continued with  sanding sticks.
The frame extensions are soft and I simply snipped them off above the sheer and then sanded smooth.
At this stage the hull feels quite fragile, and soft handling is a must.

1230
The cap rails I cut from some 1.5mm Boxwood sheet having made a card template.
These were then glued into place and the sanding process  begins.

1314

1328

1324
The sheer of the Longboat is evident in this shot.

1318
Chuck indicates that along the sheer the rail should be 3/32" or slightly wider or around 2.38mm overall. Thus far I have managed to get the rail width down to around 3.5mm, except for the flare at the bow, so I've a way to go. Similarly the frames are still a wip with more fining and finishing required.
 
The basic hull is now complete, which is a great relief, but I see a fair amount of time is still required to address the deficiencies in the finish before I move on.
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Looking very nice BE, the run of the planks looks great.  Now you are able to compare, do you think the pinnace is just fundamentally more challenging because of its shape, or was it simply your recent experience that allowed you to complete this more satisfactorily?

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

Daniel,Jason,
 
That item is called the Cap Shore. It was fitted to take the strain of the weight of the forward overhang of the Cap from the shoulders of the Mast Tenon. It was tenoned into both the Cap and the Top and was usually only fitted on 1st and 2nd rate ships.
 
Dave 

Nice work Bob, the quarter badges and stern look real fine together

Very nice transom, Bob! The paint on the carvings looks very much like wood!

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

I've spent the last week on the stern, which is now finished. A few general thoughts first: the Hahn plans are a reconstruction from the Admiralty draughts, which only show the general shape of the transom and windows; I have generally followed the Hahn plan, but not exactly; my deviations reflect both some artistic license and limitations on my skills.
 
The transom was built up from scratch from boxwood strip and sheet, using a card template following the shape shown on the plans. the windows are laser cut from the Lumberyard, but substantially reduced in thickness. The transom was built to fit these windows. Window glazing was done using Micro Krystal Klear, which leaves a clear translucent surface. The outer surface of the transom was painted black and the inner portion left natural to suit my taste. The pilasters along the windows were made up from boxwood strip, as was the molding above the windows. 
 
The carvings at the top of the transom created the biggest problem. Bearing in mind my utter lack of any artistic ability, I needed to find a way to do the carvings. I had a laser cut carving piece from the Lumberyard, but it was much too fragile to withstand my clumsy efforts to bring it to final shape. I then made an equally feeble effort carve my own from scratch. Finally, I turned to a part from the kit: the kit contained a complete transom piece cast from a flexible resin (?); I had rejected the idea of using it for the transom, but decided to try cutting the carving portion from the part and painting it to match the hull wood. I may still tinker with the painting, but I'm reasonably satisfied with the overall effect.
 
Now, it's on to completing the outside hull.
 
Bob

Beautiful work Dafi, one thing I've always been curious about was the purpose of the yellow 'pillar' at the front of the topmast between the top and the cap.  doesn't really seem substantial enough to perform a significant purpose and I haven't seen similar examples on other ships.  Only thing I can think of is to provide a little additional support to the front of the mast when the weight of the topmast is .being hoisted - maybe similar to the use of a triple block on large ships vs a double.

Hi,continues the work of the openings

She's looking really good Christian and those overall shots are testament to your work! The reworked coils look to have much more of a scale weight to them which greatly enhances the effect. 

Thanks Dennis. Much appreciated!
 
Thanks for the likes gents. Keeps me from chucking them out and start all over again
 
Cheers

Got the perforated beams for the "flight deck" in place (need to take a picture during day time). Finished the covered 25mm AA (12x), and have all parts for the uncovered cut and bent. Remains to put them together. Easier said than done ... Unfortunately life keeps on getting in the way: Had to work last weekend again, so little progress (start to sound like Sam [src] )