USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8

[xken]

In progress planking update; and yes a slight trip up following the plans in planking. I guess I got lucky adding planks and landed a full plank below the spar deck gunports and proceeded on adding planks down to the gundeck and realized a problem was starting to present the fact that a half plank was going to land on the top of the gunports including the 1/32" set back for the gunport covers. I then decided to make two brass gauges before going any farther; one the height of the gunport opening including the 1/32" set back top and bottom, the second with the gunport height plus the width of a full plank. The latter would be used to cut and trim using the top edge as a guide. I

 

I also paid more attention to the width of the planks which I found varied slightly one to another. I also added a full plank the full length set 1/32" below the gunport openings. This would be used as the reference plank that the brass guides would be set on for cutting and trimming with a full plank landing on the top of the gunports. I did this so the cut plank would be just above the full plank. I think it was the variation of the plank thicknesses that accumulated and deviated from the plans. The planks are not a full 1/8" as drawn on the plans.

 

Here are some pictures that may help explain this be better understood. Since this is my second ship build I am sure it is my inexperience that is catching up with me.

 

Here I started at the rear and planked forward to the bow.

 

Here is a picture showing the transition around the curve of the bow which required the use of a couple of stealers. 

 

Here is a quick rough sand to show the effect at the bow area; I will plank down to the wale which are the pencil marks on the bulkheads.

 

I will finish up this side and then move to the starboard side.

 

 

[xken]

Here is a detailed step by step sequence of using the brass gunport height gauge to add the wall planking between gunports. I found the gauge along with the gunport covers tack glued together to be   very effective and fast with great results. Sorry if to lengthy and basic for some but for those new like me it may save so time and frustration.

 

They are fairly self explanatory.

 

Now to finish up the few to go then sanding down before adding the 1/16" thick wale planks so as not to ruin their edges.

[usedtosail]

I like that brass gauge you used. Nice finish on the planks around the gun ports.

[GLakie]

 Very nice Ken!  Thanks for sharing! 

Edited January 26, 2016 by GLakie

[Geoff Matson]

Ken

 

I love following your build and watching how you figure out your "oh know" moments. Great job!

[Burroak]

Ken I really like those gauges. Great job on your ship. How thick are the brass gauges and what did you use to cut them with if I may ask?

[xken]

Greg, they were cut from a strip 1/2" wide x .032" thick x length needed. I cut them on a small shear I have but could easily be cut using a jeweler's saw. I like using the brass because as a cutting guide it does not dull the blade edge like steel would but strong enough to keep the edge straight. Questions are always welcome.

 

In fact I have a question for anyone out there...Has anyone ever used Ebony Stain as the hull finish rather than black paint?

[CaptainSteve]

No. But I have some black wood stain (called Black Japan, for some unknown reason) which I was planning to use for the outer planking ... when I eventually get there.

[xken]

Steve, does your Black Japan have a brand name? ls it oil or water based? The product I have seen is a Minwax item, I guess I will have to some more experimenting.

[Jack12477]

Ken, thanks for the tutorial. Nicely done.

[CaptainSteve]

Ken. The brand is called 'Feast Watson'. Not sure if you will be able to buy it states-side. The bottle says it is a "traditional spirit-based stain".

[Landlubber Mike]

 

In fact I have a question for anyone out there...Has anyone ever used Ebony Stain as the hull finish rather than black paint?

 

 

Ken, I'm planning on using natural woods and stains in lieu of paints on my builds.  Take a look at my Pegasus log, where I just applied General Finishes Black Stain - it covers like a paint, but isn't bulky like a paint.  The General Finishes "Ebony Dye" is another alternative which is a bit thinner than the GF Black Stain.

 

Minwax has a product that I think people have used.  I didn't think the coverage was as good and uniform, but I didn't use a sanding sealer and was trying it out on plywood and dowels that I had.

[Landlubber Mike]

Hi Ken, thanks for taking a look at my log.  I was mistaken in mentioning the Minwax product - I actually tried out the Varathane stain, not Minwax.  I found the particular post with pictures of my tests.  Pictures are always tough to replicate what you actually see, but hopefully it gives you a sense on the coverage of the various stains:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=227035

[gjdale]

Ken,

 

You could always try "ebonising" your wood instead of painting it.  The process is described quite well in this video:

 

[xken]

Grant thanks for the great video and it is very interesting. MicroMark sells a solution for weathering wood in the train section of their catalog that does something similar. Tomorrow I will check by the hardware store for a water based stain which they only sell in quarts so I may have a lifetime supply. The reason for the water based stain is is that it does not smell, and when dry glue will adhere and can be clear coated over with no problems. I learned years ago that oil based stains cause very weak glue joints and some over time even let go. I have had great success with water based Golden Oak which I have used on many of my WWI plane builds. For now I think I will venture with what I know will work for sure and keep the wife happy with no foul smells.

 

Thanks again for sharing and will keep it in mind should I ever need to do it. 

 

Mike, thanks for taking the time to share the photo link, it just reconfirmed my direction I am headed in with the water based stain.

[Burroak]

One thing I would wonder in the video is would that technique work on the wood filler used to smooth the hull?

[usedtosail]

Also, how does that work if you can't soak the pieces in the ebonizing solution? Do you keep brushing it on until it looks right?

[PeteGee]

Ken,

 

Just met up with your 'Connie' build.  All I can say is "Wow!" What an education for me. Thanks for your great work. I will be following  along as I can. I am doing the Revell 'Connie, ' but as I am just getting back into building after about thirty or so years, every little bit of education helps.

 

 

Thanks again,

 

Pete 

[JSGerson]

I found another video on ebonizing wood, This gentleman shows three methods:

1. The vinegar and steel wool method previously described in the first video
2. Leather stain
3. Archive India Ink (Specifies two brands only)

Long story short, he shoots down the vinegar and steel wool as messy, smelly, expensive, time consuming, and highly inconsistent; the leather stain is OK; but he really recommends the India Ink.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0E7E6uSPJY

 

It's worth watching as he details how teach method works and gives the pros and cons of each.

[xken]

Thank you all for your comments, video links and suggestions. I purchased a qt. can of the water based MinWax Onyx black stain. and the test is on with the first coat on and looking great so far. I have to wait 2 hours before applying a second coat. The final stain while require being clear coated when dry. This is the same process I have used for the airplane builds I have done. We checked the formulas of the two black stains available; Classic Black and the Onyx. The Classic Black uses a transparent dye while the Onyx uses a solid dye which makes it the "blacker" than the transparent Classic Black. This also "wife friendly" with water clean up and no odor. Hear is a picture of the label. I will update when the test is complete and clear coated.

 

In the meantime hear is a sequence of repairing a hull plank when it gets a mind of it's own and curls while glue drying and setting. This is easy and faster than wood putty which would impact the final finish.

They again are self explanatory.

 

Now back to adding the wale planks which is proving interesting to do at the stern with aggressive twisting and bending required.

[texxn5]

Hello Ken, I just discovered your build. I'm going to pull up a chair, and join the group. Very nicely done and I look forward to follow along.

John

[xken]

Well the test is completed and the results are outstanding as far as I am concerned. The sample test below shows 1,2, and three coats applied then two spray coats of Satin Clear, a light sanding of the clear and then a final top coat of clear. It was a deck lamination of basswood.

 

The first coat one can still see light wood apparent in the finish. (Light finish)

 

With two coats a medium black coverage is attained and may be good enough for a final finish depending upon the wood type. (Medium finish)

 

The three coats is about as black as you can get or would want. (Dark finish)

 

No odors, fast drying, easy brushing on and compatible with Krylon Clear Satin  even with a heavy wet coat. A clear coat is recommended on the instructions. MinWax offers Clear Coat in quart cans with brush on application. I would recommend for other to do further testing with the types of wood to be applied to; but I doubt there would be any issues.

 

I had to purchase a quart (not offered in smaller units) and it was mixed while I waited; enough to paint a fleet of ships. 

 

 

Now back to wale planking.

 

 

[UpstateNY]

Hi Ken,

 

Thanks for posting these results...very helpful as I will also need to stain some wales black so great to see how successful your tests were. 

 

Your Connie is of course looking fabulous...wonderful work!

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[Canute]

Hi Ken, your work is outstanding. Some questions for you. How was the wood affected with the water-based stain? Did it seem to warp at all? I used some similar stain on sheet stock and had to go back and add bracing to flatten it.

[xken]

Ken, The sample I did was decking from the Niagara. I have not tried it other than that. I will be using it on the hull which will be shaped and supported. I imagine the warping will occur like you said on thin sheet stock; how thin I do not know.

 

However, if you have a warped sheet like you described after staining wet the backside with water and lay it down on a piece of wax paper and weight it down evenly and it should flatten back out when dry. The wax paper allows slow moisture penetration.

[xken]

Just finished up installing the main wales on both sides. I think I am finally getting the hang of planking without gaps. I started at the bow for each strake and worked to the stern; I also measured the lengths needed for the stern element and soaked it in water as I added the other sections. I also learned that while adding the bow pieces in the curve, the top edge needed to be slightly beveled for a tight fit to the one above it.

Here are the finish bow view of the wale needing finish sanding.

 

The stern needed some real carving and twisting to butt properly to the counter planks. While wet I first cut away the back side of the plank from just before the last bulkhead to the tip and thinned it down to 1/32". I then cut a taper from the thinned point to about 1/16" all this while still wet. I then carefully added it and pinned it in place at the bulkheads and very carefully bent and twisted it into place and then trimmed the end to match the counter. Once satisfied with the fit it was glued in place.

 

Here is a view of the center portion in place ready to sand. Keep in mind I glued it to both the bulkheads and edge glued to the adjacent one above it. You can also see the random butt joints against bulkheads. I doubt these will be seen when stained, but I hope a hint of them will.

 

Once all the glue was set and for a period of time setting in the sun to dry I then started to sand. I used my round sanding sticks; sanding board with 150 grit, finger nail sticks 80 grit (orange), 120/240 grit (blue). The most important part of sanding was using a movable desk light point straight down to highlight the highs and lows of the planking.

 

The down light was also used to assure an even gap at the top of the wale relative to the hull planking.

 

Here are a couple of views showing the finished wales ready to stain when the time comes. So far no use of filler other than the carpenter glue which is stainable.

 

A bow view.

 

Now to add the planking below the wale, but first ticking strips need to be marked as needed.

 

[GLakie]

Ken you did a beautiful job on your planking. 

Edited January 30, 2016 by GLakie

[gjdale]

That's a very nice planking job so far Ken!

[Burroak]

Great job on the planking. The gun ports look very nice too.

 

Greg H.

[Altduck]

Smart use of down lighting to highlight the contours, and the reveal on the top of the wale.

 

Thanks for pointing out that that was how you did this.

 

And I'll add my complements to others - it looks great.

 

Richard