Dunbrody by Mahuna - FINISHED - 1:48 - Cross-Section - Irish Famine Ship

[dvm27]

Nice work, Frank. Who makes that razor saw? It appears to have teeth on each side.

[GuntherMT]

Nice work, Frank. Who makes that razor saw? It appears to have teeth on each side.

 

Greg - I believe that is the saw from UMM - http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php

 

I have one and it's one of my more heavily used tools, along with the micro-miter box they sell for it.  It's a fantastic little saw.  And yes it has teeth on both sides.

 

Micro Mark has copied it exactly (of course) and sells it for more.

[Mahuna]

Nice work, Frank. Who makes that razor saw? It appears to have teeth on each side.

Hi Greg

 

Brian is correct. I saw this saw in the NRJ and have had it for a couple of years. Highly recommend it.

[tkay11]

Lovely detailed explanations, Frank. Thanks a lot.

 

Just to help those who might like this saw but are in Europe (so no VAT or customs), the holder can be bought for €7 from Ireland at:

 

http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=77_112&products_id=312

 

The blades (4 types from superfine to coarse) are €3.70 each and the links for each of them are at the above address.

 

The holder needs the Swann Morton ACM1 handle for another €4.95 (also linked at the above site).

 

So the total cost with 4 blades without shipping would be €26.75.

 

Tony

Edited April 9, 2016 by tkay11

[EdT]

Excellent description of the method, Frank.  The care you are taking with marking the center lines for drilling will pay off.  Its really the key to the process.  You are obviously taking meticulous care that I am sure will pay off in a beautiful result.

 

Out of curiosity, is there a reason for orienting the mill vise with the tightening screw to the back?  I normally have the screw at the front for better access and to avoid it fouling the vertical post.  There are aspects of this vise that can be annoying.  Any little secret you may have have found would be of interest.

 

thanks.

 

Ed

[Mahuna]

Excellent description of the method, Frank.  The care you are taking with marking the center lines for drilling will pay off.  Its really the key to the process.  You are obviously taking meticulous care that I am sure will pay off in a beautiful result.

 

Out of curiosity, is there a reason for orienting the mill vise with the tightening screw to the back?  I normally have the screw at the front for better access and to avoid it fouling the vertical post.  There are aspects of this vise that can be annoying.  Any little secret you may have have found would be of interest.

 

thanks.

 

Ed

 

Hi Ed:

 

I've become a major fan of the pin-indexing method - thanks for introducing us to it.  On the frames I place a hole on each side of each joint.  Consequently there are enough pinning holes that if one is slightly off I can avoid using it and still get good results.

 

I mounted the vise that way simply because I wanted the opening towards the front of the mill - less turning of the hand wheels when going from drilling the pin holes to drilling the floors.  The opening in the vise doesn't change since all the floors are the same thickness, so I can use a regular allen key to loosen and tighten the vise.

[druxey]

A nice and methodical approach, Frank!

[Mahuna]

Part 7 – Frame Construction cont’d

 

Phase 2 – Adding the chocks to the fore and aft frames.

 

The frame chocks for Dunbrody measure 12 inches across.  Compared to a ship like Naiad (4 feet) the chocks are quite small.  At 1:48 scale, the chocks are ¼ inch across.

 

Sufficient stock (I hope) was shaped on the milling machine and then cut to a workable size. 

 

                        

 

Before each use, the timbers are sanded to ensure they are clean and square.

 

                        

 

The pinning template is covered with a sheet of wax paper to prevent glue spots on the template.  The chock timber is then held in place and the floor is marked for the chock position.  It’s very important that the apex of the chock lines up with the edge of the frame timber, or else a gap will appear beside the chock.

 

                        

 

                        

 

I use an Optivisor to make sure the chock is properly located.

 

The location of the chock is then marked with a unique identifier

 

                        

 

And the end of the chock that was used for the measurement is marked with the same identifier.

 

                        

 

This ensures that the chock is correctly placed - the end used for measurement is used as the chock.

 

The timber is then cut on the scroll saw, and any additional shaping is done with a file.  When checking the fit of the chock, the marked end faces the side of the timber that was down on the template.

 

                        

 

When the fit of the chocks is satisfactory they are parted off on the table saw.  A flat piece of aluminum is clamped to the table saw fence as a spacer to keep the chock timber away from the fence during cutting.

 

                        

 

                        

 

(You’ll notice that the blade is not spinning – I thought it would be safer if I staged this shot J )

 

Glue is then applied to the frame timber and to the chock.  I use an old artist’s paintbrush to apply the glue – it allows me to get an even coat of glue and to control where the glue is placed.

 

                        

 

The bottle cap in the foreground holds a small drop of glue – all that is needed for the chock.  I like to use old bottle caps to hold glue – discarding them when finished.

 

I haven’t found a satisfactory way to clamp the chock in this position, since the slanted surface will cause the chock to slide.  I simply hold it with a bit of finger pressure for about 30 seconds and the chock stays in place while drying.

 

                        

 

While the glue on the frame timber (in this case the fwd frame floor) is drying, I’ll perform the same work on the other frame, or aft frame.  By the time that’s completed, the timber for the fwd frame is set enough to be carefully removed from the Pinning Template.

 

                        

 

After removing the floor, the adjacent futtocks are then fitted with a chock, following the same procedure as for the floor.  When the glued futtocks have sufficiently set, they can be measured for the adjacent floor chock.  The floor is slid onto the pinning template so that it rests on the adjacent futtocks.

 

                        

 

The outline of the floor chock is then marked on the futtocks

 

                        

 

                        

 

The futtocks are then cut to these marks, and when properly fit are slid down the pins to lie adjacent to the floor chocks.

 

                        

 

The same process is followed for the adjacent futtocks.  Once all of the fitting has been completed the frame is ready for glueing.

 

                        

 

The frame components are glued together, and a clamping arrangement is used to secure the frame.  The joints are clamped using the screw clamps, and the spring clamps are used to ensure that all frame components rest flush on the pinning template.

 

                        

 

The frame is left to dry for 24 hours before the next and final frame construction phase is begun.

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Frank

 

Excellent tutorial! I hope you're justly rewarded with a good liquid refreshment after doing the frames, because you deserve it. Talk about fiddly work!

 

All the best and I'm looking forward to your next update.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[Mahuna]

Thanks Patrick - liquid refreshment is always good at the end of the day (but first I make sure the shop is locked so I won't be tempted to run machines after a sip or two!)  Fiddly yes, but also a learning experience.

[mtaylor]

I can see why you're doing a cross-section.  I would imagine all the frames would be a long process.  Looking good though...

[HIPEXEC]

Frank,

That's the best model ship carpentry work I've ever seen. Maybe it's the best carpentry work I've ever seen. Wow!

Rich Hippner

[EdT]

Sweet work, Frank.  I like the method for the chocks. They were quite small.  I noticed that in an earlier post showing the drawing.  I presume their purpose was to hold the frame together until the sister frame was bolted, but I am not sure about that.  At that length they could not have provided very much strength.  I continue to be fascinated and envious of your meticulous and precise approach.  Bravo.

 

Forgot to mention - the full descriptions and the photography are great.

 

Ed

Edited April 10, 2016 by EdT

[Mahuna]

I can see why you're doing a cross-section.  I would imagine all the frames would be a long process.  Looking good though...

 

Yes Mark, there are to many other projects I want to do so a section will satisfy my needs on this one.

 

 

Frank,

That's the best model ship carpentry work I've ever seen. Maybe it's the best carpentry work I've ever seen. Wow!

Rich Hippner

 

 

Hi Rich - looks like our next meeting will be at my place so you'll be able to see it up close.

 

 

Sweet work, Frank.  I like the method for the chocks. They were quite small.  I noticed that in an earlier post showing the drawing.  I presume their purpose was to hold the frame together until the sister frame was bolted, but I am not sure about that.  At that length they could not have provided very much strength.  I continue to be fascinated and envious of your meticulous and precise approach.  Bravo.

 

Forgot to mention - the full descriptions and the photography are great.

 

Ed

 

 

Thanks Ed.  I'm actually just trying to emulate your work.  You're right about the chocks - at the model scale the frames are very delicate until they're joined to a sister frame.  The next post will show the care needed to finish the frameset.

[HIPEXEC]

See you on April 16

Rich

[captainbob]

Fine work, Frank.  Wish I could be there on the 16th.

 

Bob

[ggrieco]

Nice job!  Incredible precision!

[Mahuna]

Fine work, Frank.  Wish I could be there on the 16th.

 

Bob

 

Hi Bob

 

I wish so, too - you'd be a great addition to our little group.  Good news is that I think Dunbrody will travel well, so next time I visit I'll bring her along.

[Mahuna]

Nice job!  Incredible precision!

 

Thanks Glenn, but it can't compare to your craftsmanship.

[Mahuna]

Part 8 – Frame Construction cont’d

 

Phase 3 – Assembling the fore and aft frames and joining them for the frameset.

 

The glued and clamped single frames have been left to dry overnight.  After drying, the frames are unclamped and unpinned.  The single frame is thin and has several delicate joints – the chocks and scarfs – and needs to be handled carefully. 

 

                        

 

                        

 

It’s important that the back side of the frame is clean and flat so that it properly mates with the sister frame. There is typically some glue residue on the back side, and some joints may not be perfectly flat.

 

                        

 

Some sanding, filing, and other cleanup still needs to be done while the frames are still single, so I use a fixture for holding them securely while working on them.

 

                        

 

The back is cleaned up using a sanding stick with 180 and 220 grit paper attached.  This is typically enough to clean the back.

 

                        

 

The chocks are oversized in depth and height when they are installed, to ensure a good fit.  Because of the way the chock was installed, the extra depth is on the front side.  This is removed by filing, first with a coarse file and then with medium.

 

                        

 

To check that the chock is flush with the face of the frame,  I lightly drag the side of the file from the face to the chock.  If I feel a step then more filing is needed.

 

                        

 

The moulded dimension of the futtocks decreases by 1/32 inch between the first and third futtocks on the aft frame (or second and fourth on the forward frame).  Consequently the chocks that are located between futtocks need to reflect this step down so that one side of the futtocks is 1/32 greater than the other side.  A stop cut is made down the middle of the chock, and some waste is pared away to make a slight ledge in the chock.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The step is then filed down to be flush with the smaller side, and the higher side is than also filed down.

 

                        

 

The depth of the step is checked using a scrap piece of 1/32” lumber.

 

                        

 

The chocks should then appear to be blended into the timbers.

 

                        

 

A similar reduction in moulded dimension occurs at the scarf, so a similar step is made there.

 

                        

 

The difference is that the entire scarf joint becomes the smaller size.

 

                        

 

After both fore and aft frames have been cleaned up and the joints properly shaped, the frames are ready to be joined as a frameset, or sistered.

 

The two frames are pinned together on the Pinning Template, leaving a space between the frames for applying glue.  The pattern is facing out for each frame.

 

                        

 

Pieces of scrap 1/32” lumber are placed under the upper part of the bottom frame – 2 pieces under the Rising Timber or Top Timber to support the 1/16 space, and 1 piece under the third futtocks to provide support for the 1/32” space.

 

                        

 

Glue is then applied to both inside surfaces and the frameset is then clamped and left to dry overnight.

 

                        

 

As far as clamps go, I feel you just can’t have too many.  I almost ran out of clamps today because I had several frames in process simultaneously.

 

 

                        

 

 

After the frameset has dried overnight it is removed from the Pinning Template.  I found that the glue makes it difficult to remove the pins by hand, so I use a Xuron pin insertion plier, which has a hooked end that will grab the pinhead.  (I also found that I’d better scrape the dried glue off the pin if I want to re-use it).

 

                        

 

                        

 

Using the disk sander, the outside curves of the frameset are then sanded down to the printed line.

 

                        

 

The height of the chocks is still oversized, and this will make sanding the interior lines difficult, so I use a very small sanding drum on the spindle sander to reduce the chocks.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The inside curves are then sanded to the lines using a medium sanding drum.

 

                        

 

Note that I’ve replaced the base plate for this drum with a homemade version.  The base plates for this sander (an inexpensive model) are not flat and are thinner than the slot they fit in, making it difficult to sand the frames properly.

 

The drawing can now be removed from both faces of the frameset.  This is done by wetting the paper and then removing it by scraping with a razor blade.

 

                        

 

                        

 

There will still be a glue residue on the wood, so I wet it and scrape it again.  This leaves the frameset fairly damp, so it needs to be left to dry.

 

                        

 

Typically, there are one or more places on the frameset where the joints are not as tight as they could be, as in the following photo of a scarf joint.

 

                        

 

To make this less obvious I use a filler made from sawdust of the wood in use.

 

                        

 

The sawdust is mixed with Scenic Glue, which is a PVA glue that dries completely flat.

 

                        

 

                        

 

The filler is pressed into the bad joint until the joint appears to be completely filled.  Any excess filler is scraped off while still wet, and the joint is rubbed down with a paper towel.  After drying, the joint can be sanded.

 

                        

 

Construction of the frame is completed, but there is still more preparatory work that needs to be done before the frame can be erected on the keel.  I’ll cover this in a future post.

 

Thanks everyone for following!

 

[GuntherMT]

Fantastic work Frank.  Your use of jigs is great.  Someday I may have to learn your patience and enjoyment of making tools!

[Mahuna]

Thanks Brian - everything about this hobby is fun (most of the time).  Looking forward to hearing about your sailing adventure.

[GuntherMT]

Also, I might have actually begun my next build and started the log.  

[Omega1234]

Hi Frank

 

I take my hat off to you! Unbelievable patience and precision, to put it lightly.

 

As a general comment, the average layman has no clue as to the large amount of skill and dedication that our hobby entails. Just looking at your tutorial is enough to explain why this is the case. Afterall... Every cut needs to be precise. Every joint needs to be clean. Every move needs to be pre-planned. And that's just for ONE frame....and, you've got heaps more to go!

 

Top stuff!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited April 11, 2016 by Omega1234

[Mahuna]

Also, I might have actually begun my next build and started the log.  

 

Hooray!!

[Mahuna]

Hi Frank

 

I take my hat off to you! Unbelievable patience and precision, to put it lightly.

 

As a general comment, the average layman has no clue as to the large amount of skill and dedication that our hobby entails. Just looking at your tutorial is enough to explain why this is the case. Afterall... Every cut needs to be precise. Every joint needs to be clean. Every move needs to be pre-planned. And just for ONE frame....and, you've got heaps more to go!

 

Top stuff!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

 

 

Thanks, Patrick.  Yeah, there are 52 individual frames in 26 framesets - that's 572 fiddly pieces just for the frames, and I'm only building the middle part of the ship!  But I'm actually enjoying it.

[Canute]

Frank, that is an excellent frame construction tutorial. Thanks for sharing.

[Elijah]

I agree, very good job Frank! A valuable reference point for sure!

[Mahuna]

Thanks everyone for the comments and the 'likes'.

[Mahuna]

Part 9 – Finishing the Frames

 

Although the actual construction of the frame is completed, there are still a few things that need to be done before the frame can be erected on the keel.

 

The glueing of the two frames together and the wetting of the frames will have caused some of the holes to be clogged with glue, or for the wood to have swollen and caused them to close.  A drill bit in a pin vise is used to open the holes back up.  Also, the wetting of the frame to remove the paper and glue will have raised the grain, causing the surface to appear rough.

 

The frames are re-sanded with a 220 grit sanding stick, and then a buffing pad used for manicures is used to ‘polish’ the frames.

 

                        

 

The height of the frame was not finished sanded, since two frames would be sistered and the height of the two frames together should be consistent.  I made a small ‘gauge’ for marking the final height of the frames.  This is simply the top of the frame drawing glued to a small piece of hardwood and sanded to the proper line.  This gauge is pinned to both port and starboard sides of the frameset, and a pencil line is marked on the frameset.  The frameset is then sanded to these lines for the final height.

 

                        

 

                        

 

Every even-numbered frame needs two bulwark stanchions added.  These are made as separate drawings and glued to a piece of 7/64 stock.

 

                        

 

 

                        

 

The stanchions are then pinned and glued to the frameset.

 

                        

 

The holes that were used for pinning are placed in the locations where bolts would have been used to secure all of the frame components.  To simulate these bolts I used 40 pound test black monofilament.

 

The ‘bolt’ is dipped in medium viscosity CA glue and inserted into the hole.

 

                        

 

Then a razor blade is used to trim the monofilament flush with the face of the frame.

 

                        

 

Acetone is applied with a ‘scrub brush’ to remove any CA that stayed on the surface.  (The ‘scrub brush’ is actually an old artist’s brush with the fibers cut back to make a short stiff brush.)

 

                        

 

The fore and aft faces of the frameset need to be finished, since there won’t be enough room after installation to reach these faces.  I decided to use a water-based poly product from Minwax called Polycrylic.  The one I chose gives a clear matte finish.  On my previous build I experimented with several different finishes and found that this product preserves the color of the madrone while the others darkened it considerably.  I also like the fact that it’s a brush-on finish and it’s easy to clean up with water.

 

                       

 

 

The preparation of the frames is completed

 

                        

 

                        

 

Now it’s time to start installing the frames on the keel, which will be the subject of the next post.

 

Again, thanks everyone for the ‘likes’ and for following this build.