18th Century Longboat by BobF - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:48 - Tri-Club

[BobF]

Chuck & Ben,

 

Thanks for the positive comments.  I really appreciate it!

 

Bob

[BobF]

I decided to leave the forward most, and aft most bulkheads in while I thin down the rest of the frames.  The first photo shows the tools that I have been using.  I started out with the mallet shaped sander, which I copied from this discussion group.  Although it worked well, I thought I'd try the rubber device that was cut from a larger piece.  This was more convenient since I could easily rotate the sandpaper as it lost it's grit.

At this point, I happened to speak to Toni, and she suggested using a Dremel Moto Tool, which could speed the process up quite a bit.  Although I have a Dremel, I decided to use a smaller and lighter unit that I purchased at Harbor Freight.  For light duty work, this tool works quite well, and I was able to get it for only $9.00 on sale.

It runs off of a power pack, which I plugged into a Dremel variable speed drive unit.  The biggest problem is the screw head that holds the 220 grit sanding disk in place.  I chamfered the edges so it wouldn't damage the model, if the head rubbed up against it.  That's worked out well.  The sanding disk is flexible, which also helps.  I tried a coarser disk, but it started taking too much off, and I wasn't happy with the results.

This little power tool is really speeding up the process, but you have to use a light touch, and you don't want to get too agressive with it.  Hopefully, the next time you hear from me, I'll be working on the cap rail.

 

[tlevine]

Looks good, Bob.  As you said, the key to this technique is a light hand and low power from the Dremel.  This approach minimizes the stresses put on to the hull from hand sanding.

[42rocker]

Those little tools from hf are nice for some things. The bigest problem is that you can't adjust the speed. For the price with all of the extra tools is great.

 

Later 42rocker

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob/Toni,

Are those Harbor Freight sanding disks or dremel?

[BobF]

You are correct that these little units do not have variable speed capabilities, but I got around that by using an old Dremel variable speed unit.  This allows me to select any speed I want, although at the low end the unit will bog down, but that's not a big deal.  I've also had good luck with variable speed units made with a dimmer switch.  Again, the motor will lose some torque, but that's never bothered me.

 

Chuck,

I knew someone was going to ask me about the disks.  They have been sitting in my workbench drawer for 15 or 20 years, and I've never used them, until now.  I'm sorry, I don't remember where I got them from. Maybe someone in the group can offer a suggestion.  I know Toni used a setup that she purchased from Micro-Mark, but the last time I checked, it wasn't listed in their catalog.

 

Bob

[Chuck Seiler]

Thanks Bob. This could help in another project I am working on. I will experiment with what I have...and keep an eye open for other options.

[BobF]

Chuck,

 

After my last post, I wanted to see if these little discs could be made with regular sandpaper.  The discs that I am using are nothing more than a somewhat stiff 3/4", 220 grit, disc with a hole in the middle.  I took some material from a file folder, and glued it to the back of some sandpaper.  Using a compass, I drew some circles, and cut the discs out.  Punched a hole in the center, and gave it a try.  It worked, except for the fact that the disc was a little too rigid.  The sanding process left irregularities in the surface of the frame.  I think the problem was the Elmer's glue I used.  It dries hard, rather than staying flexible.  It's possible that a contact cement might work a little better.  Anyway, it's something you might want to experiment with, if there ever is a need again.

 

Bob

[Chuck Seiler]

Bob,

 

    Many thanks.  I will experiment with my current project.  Since it will have inner planking as well, any glitches can be forgiven.

[BobF]

Well, I'm working on the cap rails.  Really nothing monumental there.  So far, it's been the easiest procedure on the model.  Since I'm taking photos of the procedure for our Tri-Club Group Build, I thought I'd post a few for this group.

 

Edited August 31, 2014 by BobF

[BobF]

I probably drew my two parallel lines way too far out, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

The instructions state that the inboard and outboard overhang for the caprail should be 1/64", which is about .016".  I took a strip of Evergreen plastic that was approximately .018" thick, and used it as a reference for sanding the caprail to the proper width.

If you look closely, you can see pencil marks on the plastic.  I kept sanding until those marks started to disappear.  That worked out pretty well.  It gave me a consistent edge along the entire hull.

I have to admit that I thought such a small amount of overhang wouldn't be enough, but it turned out to be just right.  I really have to learn to trust Chuck's judgement.  He hasn't been wrong yet!

Edited August 31, 2014 by BobF

[dgbot]

Looking good Bob.

David B

[Geoff Matson]

Looking good Bob Thanks for sharing with us.

[Maury S]

Bob, Very nice job.

Maury

[BobF]

Thanks to all of you for your positive comments.  I failed to mention one other benefit concerning the Evergreen plastic strip.  In addition to producing a consistant overhang, it allowed me to get a nice crisp edge on the caprail.  I'm hoping that this will also result in a clean, sharp line between the red and the white pin stripe when the model is painted.

 

Bob

[st george]

Great looking Model Bob and a great build log.

[BobF]

Thanks, David.  I've really learned a lot from this group.  The least I can do is return the favor.  I'm currently playing with the friezes and the molding strip.  Hopefully, I'll be posting some photos soon.

 

Bob

[Chuck Seiler]

I thought about using a very thin piece of Evergreen plastic (same as the width you used, square) as the under friese molding...but I got the evil eye from Mike Lonnecker and chickened out. 

[BobF]

Chuck -

 

I also thought about using a strip of plastic for the lower molding, but decided against it.  I'll stick with wood.

 

Bob

[BobF]

You might say that I've been in the Summer Doldrums, although mine sometimes extend well into November or December!  Anyway, it's been a while since I posted anything, so here is what I've accomplished, as minimal as it might be.

 

I've decided to try something a little different as far as the molding strip is concerned.  I glued a copy of the frieze on to the hull with rubber cement, so it could be removed after the molding strip is glued on.  I intend to airbrush the painted surfaces of the model, so, hopefully, I'll have clean, crisp lines between the different colors when I'm finished.  Since I'm using Elmer's white glue, I can also make minor adjustments to the molding strip if there is any deviation in the run.  The down side to all this will be getting the friezes to fit properly when it's time to glue them on.  Stay tuned, mates.

Edited August 31, 2014 by BobF

[Paddy]

Outstanding work Bob. Top drawer!

 

Paddy

[BobF]

Thanks Paddy.  Next, is the paint job, which will make or break this model.  Wish me luck.

 

BobF

[Paddy]

You have it mate.

[BobF]

Originally, I stated that painting was next, but I reconsidered.  After studying some photos of contemporary long boat models at the National Maritime Museum, I decided to make some small changes on my model.  The first involved the addition of a thin plank under the molding strip.  These thicker planks may have been there to provide additional strength for mounting the chain plates.

The wood I used was dogwood.  It is similar to boxwood, but is very flexible, which was a plus in this case.  The markings the wood possesses are not a problem, since the plank will be painted.

Two other changes involved the addition of strips under the caprail on the inboard side, and the breast hook being attached so that it is flush with the top of the caprail.  In the kit it is mounted under the caprail.

In the kit, the staysail halyard block is attached to the breast hook.  On the NMM models this block is attached to the apron located under the breast hook, which is what I intend to do.

 

[Jason]

Nice clean cap rail, especially where it meets the stem.

[Kevin]

very nice, sorry i never watched the build progress

[tlevine]

Looks great, Bob.  I also made the breast hook flush with the caprail.

[BobF]

Thanks to all of you for your kind words.  I have to admit that I enjoy kit building a lot more when I can make modifications to the model that are historically correct.  I seem to get more motivation, and the model then possesses some unique qualities.  The photos of the NMM models possess quite a few little differences that are fascinating, and, in some cases, puzzling.  For me, that's what makes it fun.

 

BobF

[BobF]

The photos of  the long boats in the National Maritime Museum continue to influence my building of this model.  Apparently, It was quite common for the gudgeon/pintle arrangement on these craft to differ from other vessels.  The lower pintles were fastened to the stern post, and the upper pintles were attached to the rudder in the conventional manner.  Attached, is a portion of a drawing of a similar boat from the same period.

Modifying the location of the lower pintle was no more difficult than if it hand been mounted on the rudder.  The only extra work involved cutting out the recess in the stern post, and filling in the same area in the rudder.

At the bow, I decided to modify the upper portion of the stem.  Again, the NMM photos were the reason, although I like the appearance of the stem as featured in the kit.

[Chuck]

Very very nice.    I am really enjoying your progress