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Posted

Hi all,

 

Thanks so much for the likes. They're such an encouragement. A little update as Storm Bronagh blows. We live on top of a hill, so we're pretty much the first thing the wind reaches in about 30 miles... It sounds pretty impressive out there (for England any-how :) )

 

I've been working to finish off the 18 pounders. They're mainly there structurally on port and starboard now, with only the wedges, and the rigging to be done. (He says "only"!?!)

 

For a little diversion, I spent some time working out how to make the shot racks around the gratings. I'd been a little concerned that the colour of the boxwood I'd used was too close to the colour of the maple on the deck. The solution? Make the shot racks red ochre, like the gun carriages.

20180917_212029_1280.thumb.jpg.c5d67f2e8afe83a194870d566654c8b0.jpg

None of this is fixed to the deck at the moment, but I'm pleased with the overall look of it.  I don't have a mill, so I created a plasti-card template to drill through to make the little dimples for the shot to sit in, then I used that template to drill .5mm holes where the dimples needed to be, and opened them up with a spherical engraving bit in my proxxon hand drill. It isn't perfect, but I'm pretty pleased with it. The shot comes with the kit, and was fixed in place with a dab of superglue (using tweezers and patience...!)

 

Here's a pic of Ethalion with her teeth in!20180920_212520_1280.thumb.jpg.6d2da6e5590371fb639188a2d6cf9023.jpg

Happy building :)

 

Rob

Posted

Hi Rob

 

Your Ethalion looks wonderful and I admire the way you  build an unique model with this kit.

 

Having had the pleasure to build those ***** shot lockers for my Bellerophon I would like to share a few thoughts and hope you don't mind.

In my kit the supplied cannonballs were much too big and I had to replace them. In the case of your Ethalion the 18 pounder shots should have a diameter of about 5 inch or 2mm in scale - they look larger. Then I think you should try to settle those balls a bit deeper into the locker - now they are in danger of getting loose in just a bit of a sea and shots rolling across a deck could be mistaken as a first sign of an impending mutiny, as Jack Aubrey tells us.

My solution was to take 1mm wood strips, drill 1mm holes into it and then drill with a 2mm drill bit nearly through it. Taking the shots out now might be a bit of a fumbling but they will not accidentally drop out.

 

Cheers and keep up the great work

Peter

Posted

Hi Peter,

 

Thanks for looking in, and for your kind words and advice. Yes, you're quite right. I measured the shot and they come out slightly over scale (2.38mm on the few I measured, rather than the 2.04 mm they ought to be to give a scale 5.04".

 

I've had a little look round, and found that #9 shot for shotgun cartridges will be the perfect size, so I've ordered some of them - I say some... if anyone wants some, I'll most likely have 0.999 kg left over when I'm done! Even I can't catapult that many off onto the floor.

 

I'll have a go at remaking the shot lockers as you suggest, and we'll see where we get to :) I'm definitely keen not to have the shot rolling around the deck - I'm sure the Captain George Countess would agree... (interestingly I just read that section in O'Brian's "Post Captain" a couple of days ago :) )

 

Take care.

 

Rob

Posted (edited)

Rob, you're cabin bulkhead came together really nicely done.  Its a shame the cabin area of this kit doesn't lend itself to opening up the deck, the last bulkhead with the gap the center still glares at me.  

 

I agree with you on the use of white, wonder if you've looked at the Admiralty 'Ivory' colour?  Its much less garish in tone and might really allow the detail to show through with the upper deck in place.  Deck shot looks great, and to think, "real" ammo!  🙂

Edited by Beef Wellington

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As always - thanks for the likes and encouragement :)

 

On 9/22/2018 at 2:33 PM, Beef Wellington said:

Its a shame the cabin area of this kit doesn't lend itself to opening up the deck, the last bulkhead with the gap the center still glares at me.  

Hi Jason - I couldn't agree more... if you could look through the stern lights down the gun deck that would be awesome! A lot of work to make that happen,though, and it would need to start way earlier on in the build. I don't think I would have been comfortable I could cut away that much structure and keep the stern the right shape.

 

Progress? Well, I've been kind of feeling my way forward. I wasn't sure quite which details I wanted to focus on... Ray completed the gun deck, putting all the guns in position, and then got the second deck on before channels and head rails etc... Jason is completing the outer hull before mounting the guns... decisions, decisions! Anyway, I thought I'd at least get the deck furniture in place. I think I'll follow Ray's lead on this one, and try and get the deck complete, that way I can be confident about the deck level before i start to install final rails and channels etc... 

 

That meant sorting out the chain pumps and posts to hold the pump handles. It also meant getting the holes for the gun tackle / breeching into the bulkheads. I made a few plasticard templates to help me get this uniform around the hull. I also made up the capstan.

 

So... here's the question. I noticed that one of the ladders is in the middle of the space where the capstan bars would go... presumably the steps (and anything else i nthe way) could be removed as necessary - that'd be a shock if you tried to get down from the quarterdeck to the upper deck in a hurry! You might get there quicker than you expected.

 

43284548210_16baed2eec_b.jpg.b3c2a4ebc5ff2b49cedc27ad334a4bf2.jpg

I had a first attempt at making up the chain pump housings a while ago, but I wasn't happy with them. So I remade them. The housing was made from a wood left over from another build... not sure what it was, perhaps lime? It didn't matter too much as I painted it. The tops were solid box. I made feet mimicking the boxes where the pump went down into the hull. These were different heights outer and inner to accomodate the boarding around the mast.

 

45049223532_65a5485d12_b.jpg.fc29cfb19126c4bceeedd951eeeddd34.jpg

 

43284550110_7ea6b8a227_b.jpg.df1b02f30f2a5cbbd086e798afafb729.jpg

Once complete, I took a look at the brass-etch handles. I wasn't very happy with these, as it strikes me they should be round section, not flat. So I made my own out of .5mm brass rod, with the ends hammered to flatten them. I made a diagram of where the posts should be, and then used that to drill the mounting points for the posts into the deck. The posts were filed to make the insets on all four sides, rather than just the two as they come in the kit. These parts are walnut, and were painted so they fit with the rest of the deck furniture.

 

Posts before:

 

43284550420_25b7de232c_b.jpg.b04ad1236938ffab646ec076b4d674c5.jpg

 

Posts after:

 

45049223212_841c12c230_b.jpg.546751f14f2ebc27b80e856ba8b2cdcd.jpg

 

Diagram for deck layout... 

 

45049222972_c24e12c746_b.thumb.jpg.cb5fc32e5baf1e8d9f5d48159a94e79e.jpg

Holes drilled in upper deck

 

43284549490_03c4a0e0c3_b.thumb.jpg.a05152c9103be085e2b960d5a6f38d8f.jpg

 

And the parts dry-fitted in place...  Once everything's in, it's pretty tight. In fact, it would be very easy for the chain pump housings to end up in the space the main-mast occupies.

 

43284549110_8522b00d71_b.jpg.f94f3fa9d2eb150bc749b753eee909f2.jpg

 

Finally, as I mentioned, I started work on the capstan.

 

45049221312_dc808ee8da_b.thumb.jpg.fb50ad3d114a91134f2982930f1f7c28.jpg

 

43287214330_db67e234cf_b.thumb.jpg.60b501479616d46b466dd40998fa6a81.jpg

I have to say, they'll do, but the walnut ply is so much harder to tidy up and make look neat than box. I think a few more going overs with some wet and dry may help a lot. At least, I hope so.

 

The Bottom capstan is complete (if in need of tidying up), the top capstan all dry fitted, as it will need to fit onto the central column once the deck is on... Something like this... (This is the point where I heaved a huge sigh of relief - it fits!)

 

43287214040_a693e45e55_b.jpg.a3efcc9ba3a2d2c408d864748f9a69c5.jpg

The next task is to rig the guns on the upper deck (the gun deck, that is... the one that isn't the quarter deck, or the focsle... which also have guns on them... don't blame me, I didn't decide on the terminology!) Once the guns are rigged the deck furniture and the beams overhead can go into place, and we'll really be motoring.

 

I neglected to get a picture of all of the bits in place at the same time on the upper deck... I'll try and get one tomorrow and post it. I love this bit of the build!

 

Happy building

 

Rob

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Looking good Rob, I've been giving a of thought to this particular area as well.  Hopefully I'll get a chance to post something later today in my log with my thoughts rather than cluttering up yours... 🙂

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A quick update.

 

I finally plucked up the courage to stain the beakhead black in preparation for the head rails.

 

I've assigned the guns individually to their ports, and gone along setting the elevations. I'm pleased with how this went, although the final gun towards the stern needed the carriages modifying so they fitted.

I've also boxed in the stern lights, fixed the transom onto the stern and filled the gap between the stern galleries and the stern transom, and repainted that area. It's ready for the final decorations.

 

I've started making the ladders that will lead down from the gun deck through the companionways. The next task will be to rig the guns, and for that I've ordered some light single blocks to take the place of the walnut ones for the guns. I didn't have the facility to scratch the ladder sides - at least, I didn't think I'd be able to do a neat job, so I've painted the walnut parts, and used box veneer for the steps. This is before the steps are trimmed to be the right height.

 

20181122_123549_1280.thumb.jpg.26f7fb56061f7aa3eee9cb73ea6d3f25.jpg20181118_212414_1280.thumb.jpg.66775467b2f916166c3a91c3f69b6223.jpg

 

Happy building!

 

Rob

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Before I go too much further I want to get the guns mounted on the upper deck and rigged. That means getting all the aiming and running in / out ropes ready. I ordered 110 boxwood 3mm blocks from cornwall model boats and some extra 0.1mm natural thread. The plan is as follows (excuse my drawing)

 

Rig three of the following with two single blocks. One will go on each side, with the falls nearest to the bulkhead. One will go at the rear of the gun for pulling away from the bulkhead to reload... the fall will be nearest the gun on this one. The ropes in use are 0.5mm for the main rope, and 0.1mm for stropping(?) the block. I'm using 2mm hooks at either end (available separately from caldercraft through CMB)... These have been blackened with brass blackener, making the whole thing much easier, as the holes don't have to be opened up again as they would with painted hooks. Superglue is used on the end of the rope to help get it through the hooks / blocks as necessary. The 21cm at the bottom is the scale length of the rope, however in practice I'm making these shorter, as the plan is to put cheese at the end of each rope.  I've put a photo of these in construction at the bottom too... I can't remember who suggested making these by putting them onto the stick side of masking tape, but it's genius! Thanks to you!

 

20181205_211152_1280.thumb.jpg.c5d0eed2984dbb8667842dacd690ff5a.jpg

20181205_211011_1280.thumb.jpg.f85507f32cb42b7d542e003d857e47e2.jpg

 

I realise I haven't mentioned the breach rope... I'm using some rope I had left over from Royal Yacht Caroline, which looks really nice... I think it's about .75mm, and a nice light grey colour. It's untwisted in the centre and the loop placed over the cascabel.

 

So... 11 side tackles done... I'll be fully rigging all the visible guns but not the rest... They'll have breaching ropes, but not side tackles. (That is, unless I change my mind, which may well happen... we'll see.

 

Once the guns are in place, I'll finally install the gratings, pillars, chain pumps, hand pumps, bitts, manger, elm-tree pumps, and gun shot racks... I also need to remember to put the cleats in... Once that's done, we'll really be making some good progress, and it'll be onto the head rails. At least, that's the plan. Should keep me going for a while!

 

Still loving this build. It's by far the most complicated I've ever attempted, but it rewards patience, and nothing's so hard it can't be done with forethought and planning. (oh yes, and you lovely ladies and gents on modelshipworld to give inspiration and encouragement!)

 

Anyway - happy building

 

Rob

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Happy Christmas to you all :)

 

I've had a wonderful Christmas so far, and it's included some time to work on Ethalion.

 

I've completed the rigging of guns 3-9 on the starboard side, and started guns 3-9 on the port. Eventually I remembered that double-sided tape was far better than masking tape wrapped round for making the coils of rope. The extra stickiness made life much easier.

 

20181222_215648_1280.thumb.jpg.fcb07dbd8b20636ffa108a942302e41a.jpg

20181226_211443_1280.thumb.jpg.76119655b4ffe73ad28f6e3fbc49bd21.jpg

 

I've also finished making up the shot racks that surround the gratings on the upper deck. A simple jig was made to align the drilled holes.

 

20181225_195939_1280.thumb.jpg.15452804ea330ccf1a2f009f0fafd3b4.jpg

 

20181226_211524_1280.thumb.jpg.fbb2a5b01dea73ff16a306eefb4ee0bd.jpg

 

Anyway - back to making training tackles... (12 pairs of blocks still to rig!)

 

20181226_171037_1280.thumb.jpg.452c6ac79c480a9a25664e583269ff82.jpg

 

Happy building

 

Rob

Posted

As an aside, it turns out that Flickr are limiting uploads to 1000 pictures on their free accounts (I get why these sites are all doing this - no hard feelings), so I've moved all my photos onto my own hosting. It turned out considerably cheaper than paying flickr for the privilege, and comes with the added benefit that I'm in complete control of it all now.

 

So... the in-between photos of the build that I don't post on this site are all here...   https://www.durant.biz/

Posted

Happy new year! Hope everyone's having a great start to 2019.

 

Gun rigging is continuing apace... Not much difference to show in photos, as I've mainly been rigging blocks and making up training tackles.

 

To add a little variety, I started working on the beams that will cross the gap between the walkways. These are provided in the kit as six beams in walnut. (part 44)... having done so much of the build with Walnut, I wanted to keep with that option. I considered trying to bend the box, but I was concerned that it would quickly spring back. Instead, I decided to shape them from 6mmx2mm stock.

 

The box strip was laminated to make up the 4mm width, and then the walnut part used as a template.

20181231_182003_1280.thumb.jpg.bb756359c7db61d474160edc2ec4c104.jpg

Parts sat roughly in place...20181231_182022_1280.thumb.jpg.5a20a9b7d1afc64a1cc39ca0f61e71d5.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi all,

 

Since my last post, I've dry-fitted the skid beams and begun working on the channels. These were drawn out in cad to work out the basic shape based on AOTS and the NMM plan of Ethalion. Interestingly the foremast channel (in AOTS and the Ethalion plans) only has five slots at the rear end compared to the six on the caldercraft kit... I've followed AOTS, and at some point I'll hopefully work out the difference in rigging between kit and AOTS.

 

Anyway - here's a PDF of my channels plan...

 

ChannelsV2.pdf

ChannelsV2.thumb.jpg.cc59c8fef08bfec2216200f4cb6f3686.jpg

As I don't have access to 2mm sheet, I laminated 2x6mm guitar stringers to make up the channels. I needed three wide for all but the fore channels which were four wide.

 

The plans were pritt-sticked onto the sheet and then cut out using a small plane, files, and the slots cut undersize with a saw and a file used to make them uniform.

 

20190117_213303_1280.thumb.jpg.dbc7432ab7300c27cf20168341b22bbd.jpg

A grooved edge was scraped into the channels. Once the chains are in place, I'll use strip to fill the gaps and sand it gentle back to match the profile.

 

Pins were added and the positions marked on the hull. So far, I've dry-fitted the starboard channels.

 

 

20190124_145949_1280.thumb.jpg.e0d40c116aab5e4e14331707762aaea7.jpg

20190124_220018_1280.thumb.jpg.77ef5267145d2484feed0868dd23a750.jpg

20190124_220111_1280.thumb.jpg.162a4013eee7182d334cbd3e654da0fe.jpg

I'm pleased with progress so far. It took a few attempts to get the smaller channel aft of the main channel to the right height so that it matched the mizzen channel, but I think we're there now.

 

It wasn't too bad doing this step with the guns installed, but care does have to be taken not to drill too far into the hull when making the holes for the pins. A strip of masking tape round the drill bit did the job wonderfully.

 

Happy building!

 

Rob

Posted (edited)

I agree with you on using walnut for deck furniture, its grain creates scale gouges in the surface that are three inches wide and a foot long. I don't understand why kit manufacturers use any open grain wood, especially for deck fittings. I tossed all the deck parts from my LN and scratched everything from boxwood.

Edited by vossiewulf
Posted (edited)

Sadly boxwood is so expensive - at least it seems to be here in the UK - that I would imagine the cost of using it (or indeed many other finer hardwoods) would put many off buying the kits, but the colour of the ply for the channels is so different to that of the rest of the walnut that I wouldn't have wanted to use it for anything that wasn't painted even if I was using walnut. Thankfully, being a hobby, we're free to swap and change as we see fit :) When I built Sherborne and Pickle the ply was a much closer match to the outer planking material and seemed to have a much finer grain albeit a bit fragile - perhaps this ply isn't walnut at all? 

 

When all's said and done, I could have built Diana out of the box, and I'm sure it would have made a handsome enough model, but this is more fun!!, takes longer (a financially agreeable knock-on effect), and I'm learning lots more as I go.

 

Here's a picture of the variation in wood colour (taken under a daylight bulb). The channels are on a sheet of the reddish ply shown at the bottom identified as 2mm walnut in the parts. The parts above are the 5mm walnut (the skid beams which I have already replaced with box on my model).

 

20190125_210428_1280.thumb.jpg.52fa27f78f7c6349b87dc301cf9bcc9f.jpg

Edited by robdurant
add photo and description
Posted

Looking so nice.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

Posted

Looking great Rob.  You nicely dodged the bullet of having gunport/deadeye conflicts by the look of it.  Agree with you on the walnut, yours looks very similar to mine - at this point I think I almost have the kit parts.  Can't quite tell from the photos but don't forget to place the cavil blocks (for the for brace and the main courses).  I opted to go with a range cleat as I felt the kit parts looked too clunky.

 

Hoping to have a minor update on my side soon...

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted
1 hour ago, Old Collingwood said:

Looking so nice.

 

OC.

Thanks OC.

 

47 minutes ago, Beef Wellington said:

 forget to place the cavil blocks 

Yes, that's a timely reminder. I do need to do that. Thanks Jason.

 

48 minutes ago, Beef Wellington said:

I opted to go with a range cleat as I felt the kit parts looked too clunky.

I completely agree and had planned on following suit. The cleats look really neat on your build.

 

Thanks to all for the likes and encouragement as always :)

Posted

Hello Rob,

I sent a PM to Shipyard Sid (David) re his Top and Butt planking jig as I have HMS Diana waiting to be built and would like to use this planking method on the deck. David advised me that he had sent the jig to you. I would be happy if you could email me the dimensions so that I can make my own jig.

I tried to pm you but apparently you can't receive messages according to the website.

My email is garyjean46@bigpond.com

If you can help with this it would be much appreciated.

 

Regards

Gary (ensign)

Posted

Hi Gary

Hmm... not sure why my PM isn't working... anyway.. welcome to the Diana club and here are the dimensions. The planks taper to half their width at both ends...

 

96mm long. 80mm for the longer taper and 16 for the shorter. From my memory the planks were 5.5mm at their widest extent.

 

Happy to put the jig in the post if you want?

 

20181222131127-1d0ad790-me.jpg.918c395f2ab9312b6c64cbadc4f35d66.jpg

Posted

Hello Rob,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I may have to work using the dimensions you have provided as I live in Australia and postage may prove too expensive, alternatively if you check out the cost of postage and let me know perhaps we can work something out. Just a thought.

Please let me know your thoughts on this.

PS: It's been over 40 degrees Celsius a few days this past week, think I prefer an English summer right now, was pleasant in June last time we were there.

 

Kind regards

Gary

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Time for an update... I've been working on the bow area, and in particular the cheeks and head rails... I wanted to replace the kit parts as they are pretty meagre... kit part top, my part bottom.20190204_222815.thumb.jpg.bb316c6862dca147fd908e4f2fece7e4.jpg

I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out... This is the progress so far...

 

 

20190207_125717_1280.thumb.jpg.34f98e3e8b5446ad85d435074fadc57a.jpg

With the different figurehead a bit of playing around was done before I settled on a layout - the dolphin's tail going between the scrolls...

20190207_221344_1280.thumb.jpg.803e338290fca4e29c899179c0ab9f9c.jpg

 

Finally I drilled the hawse holes through the hull (pretty scary!) ready to have the reinforcement added to the lower half. Next up are the head rails and timber heads! Looks like it just might come together.

 

Rob

Posted

Back to the stern galleries... I'd left these for a while before completing the decoration (I got a bit tired of them and needed a break!)... but having got the cheeks on the bow, I figured it was time to get on with finishing them off. I'd noticed a nice kind of inverted crenellation above the windows, and thought I'd have a crack at that. It was beyond my wood working abilities, but I'm, not proud, and this area is painted, so the styrene came out :) They were tiny little things, and I didn't want to stick them to the cutting mat (styrene glue melts it), so I masking taped the strip to the edge of a metal ruler and used that as the building board... The squares were from a square strip cut thinly, glued so the cross section was visible..., that way I got even squares.  It did mean I had to sand it down to get it nice and flat once glued, which took a few attempts, and various bits had to be reattached.

 

20190208_213231_1280.thumb.jpg.12b2384d7c623054fb6763dac898b740.jpg

20190209_102316_1280.thumb.jpg.94604d16b5080ad205cc80f40ef5adfe.jpg

 

20190209_102311_1280.thumb.jpg.7c91bea03e00efcd27830e1115db4cfa.jpg

 

Looking at it now on these blown up pictures, the rear end may need lifting a little (darn those big monitors!) I'll have another look and see if it's just the angle of the shot, as it is taken slightly from above.

 

Happy building!

 

Rob

 

 

 

Posted

Really nice details on the stern galleries there Rob, and the head rails came out really well, much better than the kit supplied items with the poor wood.  I wonder where the AOTS book got the dental detailing from, its a nice visual addition, but doesn't appear on the NMM plans...nice to be left to ship builders discretion!

Cheers,
 
Jason


"Which it will be ready when it is ready!"
 
In the shipyard:

HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate)

Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700)

Finished:

HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop)

Posted
On 2/10/2019 at 3:54 PM, Beef Wellington said:

Really nice details on the stern galleries there Rob, and the head rails came out really well, much better than the kit supplied items with the poor wood.  I wonder where the AOTS book got the dental detailing from, its a nice visual addition, but doesn't appear on the NMM plans...nice to be left to ship builders discretion! 

Thanks Jason - I agree completely... They're our models, aren't they... I figure it's a bit like becoming her captain and dipping into my own funds to make her my own. The lovely freedom of building them ourselves.

 

On 2/10/2019 at 10:03 PM, Blue Ensign said:

Just enjoyed reading thro’ your log Rob, love your approach to the build, and you’re doing a great job.

Impressive stuff 👍

 

Thanks B. E. It's the encouragement that keeps us going :)

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