Prince de Neufchatel by Heronguy - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64

[Heronguy]

I was considering it.  I'm also doing a cross-section model that requires the inside framing and it made me think about doing it for PdN.  However I think at the scale it won't be noticeable - carronades sticking out and port cover on top.  let me see how it turns out for you.  I have lots of time to change my mind!

 

 

[Heronguy]

I've managed to install the wales.  

 

The outer bulwarks need planking.  Although I had stained the strips with walnut I decided that I'd prefer to go with a painted surface.

 

This is 3 coats of yellow - a couple more to go at least.  It turns out that I'm not a good painter but I'll live with it.  

 

Joshua go me focussed on the gunport frames.  I'm going to have to frame them in - I can't live with them the way they are despite my best intention to do just that!

 

 

[donrobinson]

The yellow looks terrific, several coats (10-12) of thinned down(50/50) paint will give you a great result. A real pain in the butt but it works. Looking very good and I'm waiting to see how you approach the gun ports. Nice work

[Heronguy]

Thanks Don.  I've not tried the diluted paint.  I will give it a go until the paint job meets the rigorous QA standards (which I will raise from previous efforts!)

 

The gun port framing on the Essex used 1mm ply.  I can't afford to lose 2mm on the PdN so I thought I'd use some 1/2 mm decking material left over from another build.  I'll paint it before I install it so that I won't mess up the exterior yellow by painting after.  I'm not sure if the outer edge of the frame can be red or whether it should be yellow.  I note on the Syren that there is red showing around the gun ports.  Presumably that wouldn't be visible when the  gun port lid is closed.  I'll try the red edge because I can't imagine how to get a yellow edge anyways!

[Heronguy]

Hey Don,  up to 4 coats of diluted yellow.  It is certainly easier to apply with the paint thinned and it is providing the coverage.  I'll add  more coats until I can't see any of the sub colour bleed through.

 

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Worldway]

Doug,  Who's make of paint are you using and what are you using to thin it with?

[Heronguy]

Hi Derek,

 

Its Vallejo "Model Color" acrylic for the yellow and Tamiya XF (flat) for the red and black.  Thinned with tap water as per Don's suggestion.

[Heronguy]

The gunport frame have now all been installed.  A better look than before.

 

 

[Heronguy]

I have decided to copper the hull below the waterline.  So I have to mark the waterline. As before I have been frustrated by the pencil method.  Since I had a small construction project underway I thought perhaps a self levelling laser level might be a useful addition.  I bought an inexpensive one with the Stanley label on it.

It should be useful for waterlines too.

 

I hadn't decided on finish for the hull between the waterline and the wale.  I didn't think black would be my choice so I wanted to compare a dull red vs walnut 2nd planking.

 

I'm settled on the dull red based on the test.

[Heronguy]

Since I am temporarily stalled on the coppering until I get around to making a rivet jig, I decided there was little harm in planking the deck.  I decide to go with a 4-plank butt shift pattern as described in 

 

Simple Butt-Shift Deck Planking Ulises Victoria   in our articles database. The caulking betweenn planks is using a Prismacolor Premier art marker.  I really prefer it to pencil caulking.   Progress to date:   The Syren is in the background.

[Heronguy]

The planks are down.  Now some trimming, sanding and finishes.

 

[David Lester]

Decking looks great!

David

[Heronguy]

Thanks David.  I was happy with the decking process - all went well.

[Heronguy]

Small issue with the waterways.

 

Kit provides 1 strip of 3/32"x3/32" basswood.   

Plan calls for 3/32"quarter round

 

I can't really imagine how to turn 1 piece of square stock into 2 pieces of quarter round at this dimension 3/32".  The kerf on any blade I've got would use up most of the material.

 

I can imagine workarounds that I can use to make the waterways but I was surprised to see this in the kit.  Anyone dealt with a similar request inter kits?

 

 

[David Lester]

Hi Doug,

I think I'd just have a go at it by hand with some sandpaper and round the corner over by eye. I think you'll get a good result. That's what I did for the bolsters on the mast tops on my Constitution and it wasn't hard to get a satisfactory result. Admittedly, each one wasn't very long, but even along the length of the waterway I think you'll be able to do it without too much trouble.

David

[Heronguy]

I think so too.  I was just a little surprised that they thought one length of square could be used for 2 lengths  quarter rounds!

[Heronguy]

No progress over the past three weeks. Wedding to attend, visitors to host and chores to be attended to.  

 

I can cut some wood for the waterways - I was just surprised I didn't find it in the parts list or with the wood provided. Back to the shipyard this week as visitors gone, my daughter is back to school and my spouse is off at a weaving workshop.  Clear sailing!

 

I hope Olivia is letting you get some sleep!

[Heronguy]

Long absence and limited progress.  Tonight I finished the coppering.  Learned a bit about how I want to do it next time!  Nevertheless I like the overall look and I'm pleased to have done it.

 

 

 

 

[Worldway]

Wow looks great.  Good job.

[donrobinson]

I agree with Derek, the coppering looks super. Are you planning on sealing it or leaving it to age?

[Heronguy]

2 hours ago, donrobinson said:

I agree with Derek, the coppering looks super. Are you planning on sealing it or leaving it to age?

 

Don, I'm thinking sealing to maintain the bling but I haven't looked into what people use for that - any suggestions offhand?  

 

I struggled quite a bit to make a jig that worked for the nail heads.  I'm ok with the current result but subsequently discovered if I had use a different bottom layer (possibly cut out of a self-healing mat) on the jig then I'd get much sharper nail head impressions - these ones are very poorly defined - distance helps in viewing them!.  I'll redo that when it is time to copper the Syren.  I'll also redo the actual nailhead jig to get the spacing of the nailheads a bit more uniform - I used the CNC mill to drill holes but was having significant backlash problems that I hadn't figured out how to address at that time.   !No challenge for the Stefano copper plates though is there!

[donrobinson]

From what I have read spray on varnish/urethane is what most use. I've never had the pleasure to do copper plates yet so have no experience and am not so sure if I am looking forward to that part of the Stefano or not!! Did you get your backlash problem fixed? I had to re-do mine when I got the DRO and found it was not too hard of a job. 

[Heronguy]

4 hours ago, donrobinson said:

From what I have read spray on varnish/urethane is what most use. I've never had the pleasure to do copper plates yet so have no experience and am not so sure if I am looking forward to that part of the Stefano or not!! Did you get your backlash problem fixed? I had to re-do mine when I got the DRO and found it was not too hard of a job. 

 

The copper plates provided in the MarisStella kit are very nice - what it will be like applying them I won't  speculate on other than to note that the foil tape is easy enough to work with but doesn't stand up to any kind of abuse. 

 

Mill backlash problem is improved. I hope next week to get into the new shipyard and try it out to see if it is sufficiently improved for my needs!

[Derek C]

Your ship is looking great 

[Heronguy]

I finally resolved the issue of the missing wood for the waterways.  Must have been a typo in the parts list when they list 1 piece of basswood for the waterways which I thought was not very friendly since I needed 2.  However reading a little further down I eventually noticed they listed some walnut for the waterways (and other things) and gave lots of strips.

 

Now satisfied I took another strip basswood from another kits and made my waterways from basswood since they are painted anyways.

 

 

On to building the launch ways for mounting the ship (see the photo from box in  the 1st posting of this log).

[Nirvana]

Doug, 

Very nice coppering, now I think what I am in for when it comes to my Syren.

Edited December 17, 2017 by Nirvana

[Heronguy]

37 minutes ago, Nirvana said:

now I think what I am in for when it comes to my Syren.

 

This was my warmup for the Syren.  And the really easy warm up for this was the Essex cross section.  And of course the Syren is a warmup for ...

[Seventynet]

Copper looks very good Doug; nice job!

 

Ian

[popeye the sailor]

hull looks really good,,,nice job with the coppering    

[Heronguy]

I've been remarkably slow in getting this launchway built.  I blame the weather.

 

The plans for this require a board with a set of timbers to create the incline.

 

Then the timber frame is built with additional keel supports every 2nd timber.  The ship will be held in place with a pair of brass rods inserted into the keel. 

 

 

Not shown are the support timbers that will eventually (appear to) support the hull laterally.  They'y won't be added until the hull is ready to be permanently fixed to the stand.  I've opted not to embellish the stand to make it look like the ground around the launch way.

 

I'm not totally confident in the strength of this as a stand but if necessary I can add some additional support to make sure the timbers don't become unglued by stress.  Part of the problem with weak joints to date may have been that the shed where I assembled it first was not heated and perhaps the glue was too cool to set well.  I'll see how the regaled timbers survive some handling.