Royal William by ken3335 - FINISHED - Euromodel - Scale 1:72

Landlubber Mike · August 7, 2017

Really nice work Ken. Amazing you can work so quickly yet with pristine results. Beautiful!

ken3335 · August 7, 2017

Hello Everyone,

Back to the shipyard today. I've now built and finished the six canons that occupy the fore deck. I rigged them the same way that I did those in the waist so nothing new to report. My camera now works well again so just a few pics of them.

Ken

ken3335 · August 9, 2017

Hello All.

More progress to report, must keep moving forward even if it's only a bit at a time.

I've completed the last of the visible canons, the eight on the quarter deck. They have been rigged the same as before so that they'll be consistent in appearance.

I have also completed the grated walkway off the quarter deck. Nothing of note, the pictures will show the build better than me describing it, but once again without others pictures I would have struggled a bit. Pete that was a timely update of yours, your photo showed it well. Next I'll need to get my head around the rails for this section and for the gangway.

Ken

Dilbert55 · August 10, 2017

Have continued to send your Liverpool pics onto my ex-Liverpoolian mate here in Montreal and your last one prompted him to circle his Aunt's home that's in your picture...small world!

Liverpool-a.png.1cca5e31f347523723525be546218444.png

ken3335 · August 10, 2017

Hello,

Yes Dilbert, your right it's a very small world, I'll keep the pictures coming and it might get even smaller.

I've made up and fitted the breast and gangway rails. I didn't do them as accurate or elaborate as others have done but as with other detailed sections I've kept it as simple as possible. I think that by keeping things easy I don't get intimidated by the build and I can just concentrate on getting the sections neat, it's working for me so far.

Ken

Jack12477 · August 10, 2017

Ken, what camera are you using for your photos, both the scenic ones and you close-ups of your model? Are you using a macro lens or close-up filters for the model photos. The clarity and depth of focus is extremely good. I'm assuming you are using a f/16 or higher F-stop plus a tripod for the model photos. I ask as I am an advanced amateur photographer myself, and always looking to improve.

ken3335 · August 10, 2017

Hi Jack, No tripod, macro or close up add ons. The model ones are hand held indoor shots that are taken at high ISO because of the poor indoor light, mostly at least ISO 1250.

The camera is a well used Canon 1Ds and the lens that I use as default is 24-105L. It's a good full frame sensor so that even at high ISO there is rarely any noise.

The outdoor shots are a variety of my Canon and compacts that I sometimes carry, the last picture, the one with the pink sails was taken using a Panasonic micro 2/3 compact, I also used this recently for the overhead shots of the deck fittings.

If it of an interest to you I can give some details with the pictures that I post.

Ken

Canon 1Ds taken with Panasonic Lumix on auto, hand held indoors.

Edited August 10, 2017 by ken3335

ken3335 · August 11, 2017

Hello again.

Following up from yesterdays success I moved on to making up the upper quarter deck rails. Again I went for easy and my method proved easier than expected, from start to mounting on the deck took only an hour. I've shown step by step in my pics.

I copied the plan onto a piece of 1.5mm walnut ply, I put 3 x 0.5mm strips on both sides of the ply for the uprights then cut the arches and filed them to shape. I cut these out as a unit then added the 4 x 1.5mm rail at the top and glued the finished rails into place. They have been primed and need to be varnished.

Now for the dreaded curved staircase, I can't put it off much longer, not sure how I'm going to tackle it, it seems that everyone approaches these differently, I suppose I'll be the same.

The photos were taken with my small Panasonic Lumix, a 20mm 1.7 lens, handheld on auto.

Ken

piratepete007 · August 11, 2017

Ken - another one of your amazingly simple techniques that really works. Well done.

Pete

Jack12477 · August 11, 2017

Ken, thanks for the response. I'm an old 35mm film guy who hasn't quite mastered the digital camera . I have a Pentax K50 DSLR with a 18-55 mm lens, plus a Canon SX130 pocket digital. (My film camera is a Pentax ist, plus a couple of older Pentax K and H series) I'll have to experiment with the ISO settings and see if I can improve the close-ups I take. I've been using the Aperature Preferred mode. Yours are fantastically sharp with great depth.

ken3335 · August 11, 2017

Hi Jack, I've just had a thought, you might be mistaken in thinking that some of my pictures are close up macro type shots when in fact they are taken from a distance then just cropped to show the relevant area. Below is an original, then the one that I cropped and put in my log, as you can see it looks like a close up.

Ken

Then cropped

Edited August 11, 2017 by ken3335

Jack12477 · August 11, 2017

Thanks, Ken. I was wondering if you were doing that. But some of your boat deck shots don't look cropped.

I can see I have some experimenting to do. Still trying to make the switch from film/darkroom to digital/computer. I got my first 35 mm camera in 1955 and had a darkroom setup by 1959-60.

ken3335 · August 12, 2017

Hi Jack,

Here's one for you. I've just finished the staircase and I'm in the process of photographing it, I'll put it all in my build log but here's how I did them. The first picture was taken by my wife, it is me taking the close up using my compact, the second is the result of my shot.

The first is my Canon 1Ds with 24-105L lens. ISO 1250 F5.6 1/200 aperture priority with -1/2 stop compensation. I can't use this lens for close up as it has no macro facility.

The close up was with my Panasonic Lumix G1 with their 20mm F1.7 fixed lens. I rested my hands on the rails and used aperture priority set at ISO 200 F 4 at 1/50

As you can see the G1 with that lens produces superb results, it has an automatic macro function. It's not cheap but it is the best small camera I have ever used, in many cases you can't see the difference between that and my very expensive canon except that it doesn't have the versatility. The 20mm lens equates to a 35mm in use, I don't need a zoom for it as it produces very good quality large images that can be cropped. I carry it with me on holiday and I've had good success in competitions using it.

I hope this helps.

Ken

Edited August 12, 2017 by ken3335

ken3335 · August 12, 2017

Hello everyone.

Another good day at the shipyard, the curved staircases are completed and just need varnishing.

These were something that I wasn't looking forward to building and approached with great trepidation. Again as with much of the RW build it's reputation for being overly difficult did not bear out in practice, I think that it's as difficult as you want to make it with options open to all levels of experience and ability.

I looked at several methods for making them and thought that Marks was the right one for me. I cut the steps from 3 x 5mm strip, I found that seven gave me the correct height. Using a dowel to get a uniform curve I glued the steps on top of each other, I used a double width one at the top to form a small platform.The most difficult and time consuming part was making the 32 spindles, I didn't have a thin enough walnut dowel so I had to reduce the thickness of one that I had and add some shape to each spindle. I did this using my recently acquired Proxxon lathe. Isn't it fun when you can play with your new toys.

I glued each spindle in place using cyno, I used an accelerator to set them quicker so that I wouldn't nudge them out of place as I fixed others. I then sanded the sides and underneath to get an even curve having used squared pieces for steps. I bent well soaked 1.5 x 1.5mm strip for the rail with my solder iron. I glued the rail on one spindle at a time, again with cyno, when set I glued and held it onto the next and so on until all were attached. I sanded, stained and sealed them before attaching. Job done, it took a day, not accurate or historically correct but as with other none accurate parts of my build they look ok to me and at least the captain can now get onto his quarter deck.

Ken

All photos were taken with my Panasonic Lumix G1 20mm 1.7 lens. Hand held indoors

Edited August 12, 2017 by ken3335

Jack12477 · August 12, 2017

Ken, thanks again for the explanation and demo. Now I understand exactly what & how your doing it. I have to agree with you, that G1 camera takes some incredibly sharp, crisp photos.

In my sidetrack on your photography, I am remiss in not commenting on your very excellent model and those very well done curved stairs. Your model is coming along very nicely and your craftsmanship is superb. As is your photography. Enjoying your build immensely. Thanks again for the advice.

Sjors · August 13, 2017

Nice stairs Ken.

Enjoy watching it👍🏻👏

Sjors

Hubac's Historian · August 13, 2017

Ken, I am always reading along, if not always commenting, because I find myself wanting to say the same thing over and over.

Still, your work warrants mentioning one more time:

Wow! What crisp and beautiful results you are getting through a variety of resourceful solutions to tricky construction problems. Great work, Ken!

Edited August 13, 2017 by Hubac'sHistorian

ken3335 · August 14, 2017

Hello Everyone,

Thanks to you all for your likes and very kind words, they are very welcome and much appreciated especially after putting my heart into this build.

I'm still making good progress, I have completed the aft bitts, the flagstaff support. the sledge beams for the ships boat and I have made but not yet fitted the channels.

I made the uprights for the beams from 3 x 3mm strip and the crossbars from 2 x 3mm, the gussets were cut out of .5mm ply sheet and stained black before gluing on. Needless to say that the coiled rope on the deck fouled the feet, I had to remove and remake eight of them, the sticky tape that I'd used for holding them down was like trying to get chewing gum off the soles of your shoes, I had to use white spirits to get the gunge off then re varnish the deck. I glued the bars in the wrong positions about 25mm too rearward at the front and the rear one about 5mm too rearward. I didn't check the plans prior to fitting, just too many plans to wade through and I can't keep them all out, I guessed but on checking later saw that they were wrong. I think that they look ok where they are so I'm not ripping them out, well not yet anyway. The last picture is a snapshot of where the ships boat will sit as it is at the moment.

I made the channels from 2mm ply, I'll be painting them black so they didn't need to be made from wood. I made the front one wider to take into account the curvature of the hull. I inserted some panel nails to add strength to the joint. I have always cut slots for the strops then after fitting line the front with a wood strip but this time I just drilled holes for the strops, I found that the ones that were supplied fitted through nicely so why bother with extra work for the same result. I'll be fitting these next.

Ken

Edited August 14, 2017 by ken3335
Added photo

ken3335 · August 16, 2017

Hello everyone

Just another progress report. The channels are now in place and painted, I also made up and fitted the support brackets. If you want to see how they should be done you need to see Mark's excellent version, accurate and very well made. Mine are a simple generic version, simple to make with only a nod to accuracy but in keeping with the rest of the build. I think that as they will be masked by the dead eye lanyards my eyes won't focus on them so they should look ok.

Next will be the fitting of the strops and dead eyes.

Ken

ken3335 · August 17, 2017

Hello All,

Another small update on RW.

Today I made up and fitted the dead eyes. The material supplied with the kit was pretty good stuff, the dead eyes were very good quality ones, the ready made strops were nice to use, they were made from a very malleable copper wire and were a nice colour, the eyelet straps were perhaps too thick if you were concerned about scale, I used them and thought that once in place they looked ok. I found that not all the strops cleared the gun ports and I had to fill in a few holes that I had made in the channels and drill new ones to get a better fit. This was I think my fault, a little out with the ports plus a little out with the channel adds up. I think that if I were to do it again I would wait until the channels were in place before drilling the holes for the strops, or improve the accuracy of my building.

My next job will be to start making up the port lids.

Ken

ken3335 · August 20, 2017

Hello Everyone.

A little more progress. As I mentioned in my last update it was time to make up the port lids.

I blackened the supplied cast hinges, they only needed a few seconds in the solution to turn them a very nice deep dull black, I know they are not really to scale like quality photo etch would be but I like the look of them they suit my model well and like most of the ship a bit larger than life but with character.

A bit more about these hinges. When I sorted them into pairs and counted them I found that I was quite a few short of the amount needed and was at first a bit disappointed. I could easily buy some photo etch ones which wouldn't cost much but as I mentioned I preferred the look of the cast ones. I recalled that members had commented on the very helpful after sales service that Euromodel offer and thought that I would put it to the test. I Emailed their help line explaining my issue and was very surprised at the immediate and positive response that I received and a set of hinges were put in the post to me the following day. Well done Euromodel for having in place a dedicated customer service arrangement.

Meanwhile this is how I made up my port lids. I used a piece of .5mm ply and planked it using the 1mm walnut strips that I had used for the hull. I sanded prior to cutting it into strips. I cut strips the correct depth for each of the different size ports. I set my guillotine to the correct width and cut enough pieces for each width. I then stained them a light oak to match the hull and put on some sanding sealer. For the inner pieces I used 1mm ply, again first cut into strips then chopped to size on the guillotine, these were painted red and glued to the inner side of the lids. By doing it like this it didn't take very long so didn't get monotonous. I'll varnish them after I put the hinges on so they'll stick better to the wood, I'm now just waiting for the postman.

Ken

Edited August 20, 2017 by ken3335

piratepete007 · August 22, 2017

Ken, pretty sure you mentioned it before, but what solution did you use for blackening the hinges ?

Pete

ken3335 · August 23, 2017

Hi Pete,

You're like me, I've read so many logs and picked up many good tips but trying to remember where they were or trying to find them again is a challenge too far so I've copied it here for you.

I've shown a picture of what it did for the hinges after about 10 secs. I think you can see why I like the cast ones.

The stuff below is what I use. It's what I first bought so I can't compare it with anything else. I dilute about 2-3 part water and keep in a jar, it seems to stay usable for quite a while. It doesn't work on everything though, good on Amati and Caldercraft nails but not on some others, is ok on most photo etch, worked well on my white meta castings, ( see my rudder hinges ) but is a bit hit and miss on cannon barrels.

Ken

piratepete007 · August 23, 2017

Thanks Ken - now I remember. Appreciate your repeating this description and those gun port lids are looking great. Hope the postman calls soon with those hinges.

Pete

ken3335 · August 23, 2017

Hello Everyone,

The shipyard has been at full speed and quite a bit of progress has been made.

The hinges supplied I think look good but the tab for securing to the hull is too fat and would need about 3mm holes drilled, they are also very brittle and snap easily. I have found to my cost that port lids are very vulnerable to being knocked and broken off so I decided that this time I would pin them securely in place. I drilled and inserted a couple of pins into each lid, I'm glad that I did as I found them much easier to fit than relying on the hinges to hold them in place. I cut the hinges to size and glued them on the lids using cyno, then I gave them a coat of poly. I was amused when I saw the picture I'd taken showing the lids, I thought that they looked like a colony of beetles!

I tried the canons for fit, all looked ok so I removed them prior to fitting the lids. I was pleased to see that there were enough canons with some to spare. After fixing the lids I glued the canons into place then painted them a matt black. I had previously tried blackening them but the results were inconsistent. I've only managed to do the one side as I'm waiting for my re-supply of hinges that are coming by post. I also put on the security chain on the rudder and the supports, dead eyes and strops for the upper backstays.

As I mentioned in a previous post I had put the three skid beams in the wrong places. Having looked at them for a while I felt that they looked a bit out of balance, they would have been difficult to replace without quite a bit of work so I made an extra one and put it in front of the others where there was too much of a gap. It's not correct but they now look as if they're spaced correctly and unless you were an expert you wouldn't know. I like the detail that can easily be added to the ships boats so I've decided to have a pinnace as well as a launch on these beams as an added distraction. I've shown a picture of one that I scratch built on my HMS Fly and I think that I could probably improve on it now. It's the 2017 re-fit by the master builder, Ken.

During this building stage I felt somewhat overwhelmed by the sheer amount of work involved, the enormity of what is required to complete this model I think is starting to sink in, but nothing that a few beers can't put right.

All the pictures were taken with my Panasonic G1 compact at ISO 400

Ken

Edited August 23, 2017 by ken3335

piratepete007 · August 23, 2017

Ken,

You have always been up front with your written comments and it has made fascinating reading with all it's detail. One cannot but be impressed with all the photos you have posted and the build looks impressive. 2017 for this forum has been greatly enriched by your work (and of course Mark's and Vince's). So take a deep breath indeed, have a few beers and enjoy the rest of the build.

Pete

Edited August 23, 2017 by piratepete007

Landlubber Mike · August 26, 2017

This is an amazing build Ken, incredible job you're doing. I echo what Pete said - even for those of us not working on this kit, we are all learning and getting inspiration from your log.

ken3335 · August 29, 2017

Hello Everyone,

Again thanks for all your likes and for some very complimentary comments on my build, as I've said before it really does motivate me and does make the effort I'm putting into my log worthwhile.

The re supply of hinges from Euromodel arrived and pretty quick too, I was sent enough and with quite a few spare. These were put on the lids and attached to the ports, all the lids were then roped and varnished. The hull is now finished.

I'm not sure what part to do next. Before I continue though I'd like to fix as many of the blocks and eyelets in place that are on the decks whilst I still have easy access. I've looked at the rigging plans and I'm finding that without a good deal of study they are difficult to determine, if anyone can help me out on this I'd really appreciate it

The shipyard will now be closing for a few weeks. I promised my wife that when the hull was finished I would do some decorating and renovate my bathroom. We're also taking a holiday to Madeira for a couple of weeks.

Life does get in the way of modelling so that's it for now folks see you late September.

Ken

piratepete007 · August 29, 2017

Bon voyage Ken and take a well deserved rest (well, at least from ship building). You deserve it. Look forward to you returning to the Forum.

Pete

ken3335 · September 29, 2017

Hello Folks,

The shipyard has now re opened and is fully operative again.

I've done all my maintenance, decorating and the usual prep for the coming winter. I've taken my wife on a holiday that she wanted so I now have her approval to spend lots of my time building RW.

I don't know if this happens to you but I initially found it difficult to fire up my motivation, for a couple of days I just browsed through the plans looking for inspiration as to how I should proceed, I've now found my mojo so it's full speed ahead.

I've started on the masting. I think that the plans for these could be arranged better, all the info and measurements are there but they are in no particular sequence, a bit like a mad woman's diary. Whilst all the individual pieces are there to be made there isn't any guidance as to how they should be assembled into complete masts, the views of the completed masts are shown in the rigging plans and much of the necessary details are masked by the rigging, I think that it is assumed that at this level you should already know. I am confident though that I'll manage ok as once again although I'll try and get things as correct as I can I shan't worry about perfect accuracy, as long as they look about right and are neat that's all I'm setting out to achieve, I'll leave the super fine detailing to others that strive to achieve perfection.

I've made up the platforms, starting with my usual method of copying the plans to ply before cutting them out and planking them. I fitted them out as close to the plan as I could, they came out ok. Moving on I made up the bowsprit as per plan with all the pieces needed, my Proxxon lathe made the shaping easy and fun to do. I stained the pieces light oak. I've shown pictures of these made up, I think that their build will be self explanatory.

Ken