Emma C Berry by yvesvidal - Model Shipways - 1/32

[yvesvidal]

Small progress, as I started the "B" belt. That one is comprised of 7 planks on each side.

 

So far, two planks have been added to each side, allowing me to close the fish well. Ten more planks to go.....

 

I also started drilling the holes allowing the flooding of the well, with salt water. The prototype calls for 130 holes on each side.... I don't think I will reach that number but will drill a significant amount. Below, is what it would have looked from the inside of the well: 

 

Once everything is painted and primed, the holes will look more defined.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I just finished the holes. They are about 1 scale inch (0.8 mm) and should not allow any decent fish to escape. With a thin layer of primer, it is easier to see them. The inside of the well, will be painted anti-fouling red: 

 

 

Now that this tedious milestone is behind me, I can move on with more planking on the "B" belt.

 

Yves

[lmagna]

Interesting design feature. I understand the why, simple and effective, although you still had to carry the extra weight of the water even when the tank was empty of fish. But it still feels about as logical as installing a screen door in a submarine!

 

Nice work Yves

[yvesvidal]

That is the price to pay to get fresher fish. It was not uncommon for these fishing vessels to be gone for a few days at a time.

 

Yves

Edited November 17, 2020 by yvesvidal

[yvesvidal]

Alright, planking on the starboard side is almost finished. I am not inventing anything here and simply copying the suggested setting on the box cover. Basically, the renovation of the hull (changing some rotten planks) and the repair of the Well.

 

I am not too disappointed at my first planking attempt and know that if I ever try another boat, it will be better. Also, this is a fishing vessel from last century and as such the finish of the hull cannot be compared to a modern yacht made of laminated and infused resins.

 

 

A little bit more sanding and it will be ready for a first coat of primer followed by some putty, more sanding and another coat of primer. 

 

Yves

[BobG]

Wonderful, Yves, I really like this model!

[yvesvidal]

Thank you Bob. Yes, I like it a lot too, for multiple reasons: 

 

- The scale of 1/32 allows to have a good and beefy model to hold.

- It is a fishing vessel and I like fish in general...

- The Basswood provided in the kit is of very good quality (my kit is extremely old - 15 years) and is a pleasure to work with. It is a very sensuous experience.

- The shapes and curves of the hull are also very voluptuous, which is appreciated....

- The rigging is not too complex and I should (hopefully) be able to finish this boat during my lifetime.

- The well, used to keep the fish fresh and alive is quite unique and worth detailing.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

The hull is finally planked. All went rather well, and I may need just a touch or two of putty: 

 

 

 

A first coat of primer to better see the imperfections (if any....just kidding of course):

 

 

Then, some fine sanding, a touch of putty here and there and we can move to the upper part of the hull.

 

Yves

 

[BobG]

Very, very nicely done, Yves. I think you've already convinced me that this model should be on my tick list.

[gjdale]

Very nice job on the planking Yves.

[yvesvidal]

Tank you Bob and GjDale.

 

I have decided to part with the instructions, as they are now calling for the deck planking. I think it makes more sense to finish the hull with the bulwarks, prepare it, paint it, paint the bulwarks and then move to the deck planking. Thus, I hope this approach will pay off and allow me to still finish the deck in a nice way. For certain, the sanding of the deck will not be as perfect as if it was built at this stage, but then the painting of the bulwarks would be a challenge. Decisions...decisions.

 

 

All 34 stanchions are glued. Before installing the cover rails, I still have to build the knightheads and level off everything.

 

 

Then planking of  the stanchions will take place. At this point, the hull is pretty much finished.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I started doing the bulwark on the port side. This is a very delicate task. The cover board/rails must be glued perfectly, to allow a small gap to show up on the outside. Here CA glue is your friend, as you glue the stanchions one at a time, pretty much.

 

Then the scupper strake must be installed and each scupper clearly delineated, right between two stanchions. Then you must glue two additional  1/32 thick boards above the scupper strake. Nothing really easy.... Again, I am glad this is a utility vessel and does not present the same level of finishing found on a modern yacht.

 

 

 

 

The stern is a big mess and the part included in the kit is way too small to fit. I am going to have to be creative, there. As you can see on the pictures, some sanding will be required.

 

In retrospect, I wish I had cut/glued the stanchions 9 mm above the main cover board, instead of the 8 mm recommended by the plan. This would have made the insertion of three planks of 3 mm high, much easier.

 

Yves

Edited November 23, 2020 by yvesvidal

[DocBlake]

Very nice work, Yves!

[yvesvidal]

On 11/22/2020 at 12:35 PM, DocBlake said:

Very nice work, Yves!

Thank you Blake. Coming from you, it is a true compliment.

 

Moving along with the Bulwarks. For the starboard side, I decided to do it differently, to not follow the instructions and wished I had done it the same way for the port side. We learn through our mistakes and should listen to our intuition.

 

So, on the starboard side, I am building the bulwark from bottom to top. First the scupper strake, then the first bulwark plank above and finally the second plank. The whole assembly is slightly higher than the stanchions, but it is so much easier to bring it down by sanding, than it is to try to fit these small 1/32 inch thick planks between the rail board and the scupper strakes.

 

 

In addition, it gives you plenty of room to carefully brush some diluted wood glue from the inside. The planks and stanchions also provide for a much larger and stable surface to glue the top rails. The top rail is glued with CA glue first, a few stanchions at a time. When happy with the positioning of the rail, I turn the hull upside down and brush some diluted PVA glue from the inside and outside. The glue will fall by gravity and finish the bonding between the upper plank and the rail board.

 

 

This is where we stand at that moment: 

 

 

The part provided in the kit for the stern is way too small and too stiff to allow for that nice curvature in two dimensions (left to right and back to front). I am going to have to create a new piece made of cardboard and plank it carefully to give it a wood appearance.

 

 

Yves

Edited November 23, 2020 by yvesvidal

[mek]

Hello, Yves,
this part is really too small. I have also made a new one for my ECB.

I also made both bulwarks new, the ones from the kit fitted badly, the joint between them was too big.
Your work looks good, I like to watch.
Many greetings
Michael

[yvesvidal]

6 hours ago, mek said:

Hello, Yves,
this part is really too small. I have also made a new one for my ECB.

I also made both bulwarks new, the ones from the kit fitted badly, the joint between them was too big.
Your work looks good, I like to watch.
Many greetings
Michael

 

Thank you Michael for the compliments. Yes, the part you designed is exactly what I need to do for my boat.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I brushed some primer on the bulwarks and glued the lashing rails: 

 

These are the little details that make the model interesting and realistic.

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

A few more little details: cutwater, buffalo rails and hawse pipes: 

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

With three EMMA C. BERRY build logs going on at the same time, I have to be careful to update the right thread.... ☺️

 

The hull is pretty much finished. I still have to sand it carefully and smooth some areas and details and it will be ready for painting. The Bulwarks and inside details can be painted using a creamy hue, whereas the outside of the hull will be painted black and red.

 

 

The hawse pipes on the stern have been installed and I am going with the original Emma configuration and its two bitts near the tiller. The mooring bitts as suggested in the kit were introduced later in 1988. I also like the sleek lines of the hull and rails, without these ugly protuberances.

 

 

The bulwarks and the king plank will be painted with a cream color: 

 

 

A lot of work remains to be done at the bow and I do not believe I can carve the beautiful "frise" found on the original boat: 

 

 

Yves

[yvesvidal]

I am glad, the front of the bow is well underway: 

 

 

All is done with 1 x 1 mm strip, carefully soaked and bent. It will be finely sanded to be rounded and smoothed.

 

 

 

For the sculpture, I am not too sure yet but perhaps using very fine strips of Playdoh .... not sure.

 

Yves

[lmagna]

17 minutes ago, yvesvidal said:

perhaps using very fine strips of Playdoh

Wouldn't using Polymer clay be a better choice? That way you can mold and carve it, but when finished it can be baked in the oven and made hard.

 

Your progress on this build is looking fantastic Yves.  

[yvesvidal]

Thank you Imagna, for the suggestion. Yes, I do have that kind of polymer clay and once baked, it can be sanded.

 

I looked into all my references and could not find anything clearly explaining this in the kit and accompanying plans. I have decided to install a fine strip of 1 x 1 mm as a protection strake along the hull. This will also hopefully make things a little bit easier when I have to paint it cream: 

 

 

 

Once sanded round and primed, it should blend harmoniously with the rest of the hull. I have also installed the tiller platform.

 

Yves

[DocBlake]

Really nice work, Yves!  She is just gorgeous.

[yvesvidal]

Moving along in different directions: Paints testing and planking attempts: 

 

 

The cream color is a mixture of acrylic titanium white with a drop or two of brown sienna. The black is acrylic Gesso, which is a primer used by artists to prepare their canvas or panels. Gesso can be found in white or black. I love Gesso for multiple reasons: very easy to brush, results are very smooth and even, easy to stop the paint and re-start at a later date with no way of finding out the limit, and deep matte black color. Perfect for this kind of utilitarian fishing vessel.

 

 

The deck planks are cut and prepared individually, with the HB pencil rubbing on each side and some brown ink to penetrate the wood. After drying, the deck will be gently sanded and stained again, for a more even appearance. Again, this is not a yacht.

 

 

The individual planks are visible through the Gesso paint and this is exactly what I am shooting for: a fishing vessel, having served multiple decades in rough seas and being restored on a shipyard.

 

Yves

 

 

[yvesvidal]

Most of the "old/original" planking is finished: 

 

 

All the other planks will be fresh wood, in the process of being rebuilt. The fish well, almost flush to the deck. The fish were pushed out of the deck and into the well, after being removed from the nets.

 

 

 

A view from the tiller: 

 

 

and from the bow: 

 

 

More later....

 

 

Yves

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

A few updates: The hull has now been painted (still missing the stripes) and the deck is at the point where I wanted it to be, for my diorama: 

 

The rudder has also been installed and is working. You can swivel the rudder blade by pushing or pulling on the tiller: 

 

 

The deck is in the process of being re-built: 

 

 

Acrylic paints were used for the hull: red crimson hue and Black Gesso, both from Liquitex. There are four coats of red which does not come as a surprise when you know how transparent red can be: 

 

 

The holes to the well have been re-defined with a pin. All painting is brushed like on the prototype. The rudder is glued to a wood shaft, pivoting on a pin and braced by two strips of copper, riveted to the hull: 

 

 

It works rather well, even though that boat will never go in the water....

 

 

The next part will be either the completion of the stern (I need to find dry transfers for that) or the bow. I have not made up my mind yet....

 

Yves

 

 

[G.L.]

Beautiful work, Yves. And what a neat and sharp waterline!

[BobG]

Wonderful!

[Blue Ensign]

You're doing a fine job on an interesting subject Yves,  I really like the look of her.

 

B.E.

[yvesvidal]

I have been slowed down by a couple of things I am waiting for, in the mail: Dry transfers and Blackening solution for metal parts.

 

In the meantime, the bowsprit is ready and will be mounted when parts have been blackened. It is removable, as this is a big and fragile piece of the model: 

 

I am using two real screws of 1.6 mm to simulate the main bracing of the bowsprit. These parts will be blackened and blend with the rest of the bow.

 

 

I have also been working on the main superstructure (cabin is a big word for what is nothing more than a door and a roof protecting the ladder and the landing): 

 

 

 

 

 

The main "cabin" is not yet glued to the deck: 

 

 

 

View of the tiller: 

 

 

Once I can complete the stern (Dry transfer), I will assemble the bowsprit and its guys and chain and the hull will be pretty much completed. I will need to put together the winch and a few minor details and we can then move to the next phases: rigging and construction of the diorama.

 

Thank you for the encouragements and accolades. They are much welcome.

 

Yves

 

 

Edited December 17, 2020 by yvesvidal