USS Tennessee 1869 by Keith Black - scale 1:120 - Wood Hull Screw Frigate - ex Madawaska 1865

[BrianK]

10 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Brian, it's a straight needle and no tying.

 

https://www.joann.com/beading-hand-needles-size-15-4-pkg/8235681.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpdCMgKWh9gIVwQxlCh0ARQEoEAQYASABEgL2zvD_BwE

Thanks for the link Keith. Found them on ebay and ordered some.

[TBlack]

13 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Tom, is this paint or glue? Do you have a link? I looked up Liquitex and didn't see a bottle exactly like the one you posted. 

Keith,

If you go to Amazon, and in the search box type: Liquitex matte fluid medium, you'll see the bottle. I think it qualifies as a paint. It dries clear, and  

acts like a glue.

Tom

[wefalck]

It is effectively a matt varnish. It is called a 'medium' in artists' vernacular because it would be mixed with the paint in tubes to change its consistency or sheen. Any varnish can be used as a 'cement', as long as the solvent can evaporate, which requires at least one porous surface.

[rwiederrich]

On 2/27/2022 at 9:15 AM, Keith Black said:

 Absolutely, Gary, that's the driving force.

 

 I messed around a bit last night on the test board and I tried the gluing method. One, it's not positive enough in that a should and ratline don't necessarily what to be joined via the glue and if it does join and it's off, it's a mess. Gluing has been eliminated as an option.

 

 My dear wife just got back from a trip to Joann Fabric where she picked me up some beading needles sizes 10 and 12. I'm going to try to pass a beading needle through the shroud line with the ratline in tow. If this doesn't work, I have my doubts that it will due to the size of the shroud line, then it's clove hitches and devil take the hindquarter. 

 

 Thank you to everyone for your support, it warms the cockles of an old man's heart. 

Interesting....enough.  I never figured the method to be technique sensitive.  I simply apply a small drop of glue to each shroud...then press a precut length of ratline thread against all the shrouds and give the entire ratline a simple roll/twist  through the glue......completely incorporating the glue through out the shrouds and the ratlines....then let dry.   I applied the ratlines to all the shrouds on Glory's mizzen mast by simply rotating between them....allowing a bit of drying for each then moving onto the next.  By the time I returned to the starting shroud...the glue was dry and and I laid another ratline.

I finished up all the ratlines on the mizzen in about 40~ 45 minutes...this time included trimming off the excess.

 

Rob

[Glen McGuire]

Keith - gluing is also how I attach ratlines to my shrouds for SIBs.  No way for me to tie a knot that small and I had not thought of threading through the shrouds like you describe (interesting idea).  Aleen's fabric glue has worked well for me.  It's clear and has good strength and a bit of flexibility after drying, which is crucial for me since my shrouds and ratlines get folded over and twisted numerous times before reaching their final resting spot.    

 

Rob - that was an eye-opener to see that you glue ratlines at the larger scale (larger meaning compared to SIBs).  I thought that everyone always tied them.  Assuming that's what you did on your Glory of the Seas, they look really good.  Thanks for giving away one of your trade secrets!

[Keith Black]

1 hour ago, rwiederrich said:

I never figured the method to be technique sensitive.

 Rob, I understand. I think you or someone who glues ratline to shroud line successfully needs to look over my shoulder and see why I'm not able to manage this seemingly simple process. I know this, if I can't get it done on a test board, in an optimal working position, I'm not going to trust using the method on the mizzen where my angle of attack makes my hands shake more so than when working at the test board.

 

 I've got nothing against the method, for you and those who can use it without issue, I applaud you. 

 

 

[rwiederrich]

3 hours ago, Keith Black said:

 Rob, I understand. I think you or someone who glues ratline to shroud line successfully needs to look over my shoulder and see why I'm not able to manage this seemingly simple process. I know this, if I can't get it done on a test board, in an optimal working position, I'm not going to trust using the method on the mizzen where my angle of attack makes my hands shake more so than when working at the test board.

 

 I've got nothing against the method, for you and those who can use it without issue, I applaud you. 

 

 

Use the method that best works for you…..that’s all you can do.  
 

Rob

[rwiederrich]

4 hours ago, Glen McGuire said:

Keith - gluing is also how I attach ratlines to my shrouds for SIBs.  No way for me to tie a knot that small and I had not thought of threading through the shrouds like you describe (interesting idea).  Aleen's fabric glue has worked well for me.  It's clear and has good strength and a bit of flexibility after drying, which is crucial for me since my shrouds and ratlines get folded over and twisted numerous times before reaching their final resting spot.    

 

Rob - that was an eye-opener to see that you glue ratlines at the larger scale (larger meaning compared to SIBs).  I thought that everyone always tied them.  Assuming that's what you did on your Glory of the Seas, they look really good.  Thanks for giving away one of your trade secrets!

Far too many things will distract from them when they are layered over the shrouds.  
 

If it works…..do it.  Nothing is set in stone. 
 

Rob

[Keith Black]

 Thank you to everyone for the helpful and supportive comments and to everyone for the likes. 

 

 The mizzen topsail ratlines are done using the weaving method. I tried using a #15 beading needle to pierce the shroud lines but try as I may, I couldn't thread the needle eye. It would have been far easier to pierce the shroud lines but alas I had to use a #12 needle. I used 0.12 inch spacing representing 14 inches at scale. Sometimes the spacing got wonky but I'm determined to make sure this doesn't happen in the future.

 

 All I can say is that it's done and I can move on to rigging the mizzen topgallant and topsail yards before stabbing the mizzen into the deck for it's final time. I'll continue to use the weaving method for the remaining ratlines as I know I can have moderate success using this method. This first attempt may not look topnotch but maybe by the end I'll be able make something a bit more sparkly. 

 

 

 

 

 Again, thank you to everyone for stopping by and being part of my journey. 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2022 by Keith Black

[mbp521]

All I can say is WOW Keith! You really nailed it. Beautiful job! I see nothing wrong with that. 

 

-Brian

[wefalck]

Coming on nicely indeed - only ten more sides to go, I suppose ...

[mtaylor]

Wow!!! is pretty much my sentiment also.   Fantastic work.

[Glen McGuire]

Well done, Keith!  I don't know how you'd get the rest of them to look any better than those!

[KeithAug]

Very neat work Keith.

Edited March 6, 2022 by KeithAug

[lraymo]

Ohmigosh!  These look fantastic!  Ditto with the other commentators... not sure how these can be improved upon!  They look perfect already!

[FriedClams]

I echo all the above statements Keith.  What a great result!

 

Gary

[rwiederrich]

Bravo Keith.......

Will you be putting ratlines on the topgallant shrouds as well?

 

Or just the mains?

 

Snappy work my friend.

 

Rob

[Keith Black]

2 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

Will you be putting ratlines on the topgallant shrouds as well?

 

Rob, I'll not be adding ratlines to the topgallant shrouds as those seem to have been going out of use around the turn of the 19th century (if memory severs correctly) Petersson's book doesn't show topgallant ratlines and I can't see topgallant ratlines in any of the photos I have of the Tennessee. I'm going for the 'less is more' approach. 

 

  Brian, Eberhard, Mark, Glen, Keith, Lynn, Gary, and Rob, I'm honored by your approval and thankful to all for the likes. I am truly blessed that each of you is part of my MSW family. 

 

 

[Keith Black]

 Thank you to everyone for kind comments and to everyone for the likes. 

 

  I finally got some running lines run. The lines aren't tight as the mast is still off ship and the lines need to be connected to the deck. After viewing the photos I see a couple on lines I need to reroute. I think the two flag lines/halyards are too heavy so I'll have to redo those along with the flags but it will give me the opportunity to see where those lines want to land. 

 

 The mizzen yard braces don't run forward tying to the main mast, they seem to run to the stern on the outboard side to a pin rail just above the monkey rail. Once I stab the mizzen into position for the final time I'll then have a better idea how this needs to be done. 

 

 Thank you to all for following along with me on my journey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 17, 2022 by Keith Black

[lraymo]

It all looks soooo good!

[Glen McGuire]

More superb work, Keith!

[BANYAN]

That looks pretty good there Keith; nice work.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[mtaylor]

Most excellent workmanship on her, Keith.   It's great to see your progress.

[TBlack]

Nice looking flags. And I'm jealous of the fact that you have windows in your workshop!

Tom

[mbp521]

Amazing work as always Keith. 
 

-Brian

[Dave_E]

On 5/19/2021 at 4:18 PM, Keith Black said:

 I'm adding three photos of individual blocks to better show the resulting coloration as the photos in the first post didn't do the end result justice. 

 

 Thank you, Mark, Tom, and Tony. 

 

 

 

I know I’m way late on this build (I wasn’t a member yet, and Keith and I have corresponded much since I came aboard). Really glad I posted some rigging comments lately on my Lady Nelson. Because of your comments on rigging, I came to your build and while looking for your wire stropping, I find this. This is one of the really cool things about build logs and a forum like this. I never thought about making the tackle look “more real (correct)” until I read this section on how you did all this work to make the tackle look so realistic. This is so cool! 😎 Think I’m going to try your process. 👍

[Dave_E]

On 12/4/2021 at 12:33 PM, Keith Black said:

 Mark, Gary, Pat, Brian, Keith, Lynn, and Keith......thank you so much for your kind and supportive comments. Thank you to all for the 'likes' and taking the time to follow along. 

 

  Here's how I strop blocks with wire.  

This is the wire used.

 Tools used to form the wire. For blocks that require a thimble I made a wood form (stick) for the first step in forming the wire.

 The different block sizes required. Top row, left to right, in inches,  .12, .15, .175, and .19

 Bottom row deadeyes, left to right in inches,  .11 and .16

 The doubles and triples used (not pictured) are the same size as the top row. 

 I cut and form enough wire to strop as many blocks possible as I can before I have to give my eyes a rest.

 The wire on the left is for a block without a thimble, the one on the right is for a block with a thimble. 

 Block stropped with a thimble. 

 First step in forming  wire for a block without a thimble. I've marked the jaws of the pliers for the different block size widths. The wire is bent over the jaws.

 The wire is squeezed to set the width. 

 The wire is the squeezed at the top to square the shoulders. If the 'legs' aren't at 90 degrees to the top, they need to be pulled till they are otherwise the top will not be square when the wire is twisted.

 The blocks I purchased are single sheave hole blocks. The sheave hole closest to the block end always goes to the twisted end of the wire. When twisting the wire the block must be held firmly but gently. the .175 and .19 blocks can take a bit of pressure, the .12 and .15 not so much. They WILL crush if too much pressure is applied with the pliers and will also split if the wire is over twisted. 

 Once I'm satisfied with the twist length and tightness I give the block a final squeeze to even the wire height along the block's sides. 

 

 I am drilling a hole where a block needs to be placed, cutting the twisted end to length, and CA glueing in place. For larger scale projects the twisted end can be made with eyes or hooks. That amount of detail for this scale is not feasible.  

 

 Again, thank you to my MSW family for all your kindness.  

FOUND IT! 😀

[FriedClams]

Looking very nice Keith.  

 

18 hours ago, Keith Black said:

I think the two flag lines/halyards are too heavy so I'll have to redo those along with the flags

 

That's a shame because I think the flags look great, especially Old Glory.  Nice subtle wave in it - I can almost hear it popping in the wind.  But if something doesn't seem right, it'll always bug you. 

 

Gary  

[KeithAug]

Keith - i have to agree with the other comments - very nice work.

[lraymo]

When I get to the stage where I need to work with blocks, I will be coming back to your log for a tutorial!  Everything looks good!