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Posted (edited)

Don't wory,  I wont get ahead of you. Your careful step be step instruction and the laser cut kits makes it so easy. I rather wait on chapter 2 than making mistakes.

Edited by Beckmann
Posted

I should have chapter two done in a few weeks.  I may not be completed with the planking but I can describe the process.  Once  hull is planked its the end of chapter two.....

 

Chapter 3 will be the framing and completion of the stern transom and quarter galleries.  This is where the fun really starts!!!  :)

Posted (edited)

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I glued the bulkheads into position. That was the easy part. Then I startet sanding the bulkheads, that appears to be the challenging part. I am not totally happy with the result so far, I need to go over it again. 

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One or two bulkheads jump a little bit back behind the line of the others.  I have to see, wether I glue something in the  gap or sand the others down.

20190908_210457.jpg

Edited by Beckmann
Posted

something is off on all of those bulokheads. The bulkheads should sit lower and right on the rabbet line.  Yours look like they are about 1/8" too high.  That will be a problem.  Its probably throwing off your fairing too.

 

have a look here. 

 

 bulkheads.JPG

 

Chuck

Posted

Ok that seems to be a severe Problem. I will check out what happened and then try to correct it. Maybe I cut the bulkheads too much on the line + sanding, they became too small, in this case I will add a new bulkhead-half and glue it next to each bulkhead to correct the shape. 

Posted

That would work but you might be able to just shim the bottoms.  I would just print out the bulkheads and test them to see if it is the bulkheads or the bulkhead former.  If it’s the false keel it would be more ch easier.

Posted (edited)

I printed the bulkheads again and tried to find out, what happened. There are two or three things that sum up. The biggest is my inaccuracy, when I cleaned up the bulkheads after cutting them out. I often sanded the tips of the bulkheads too much.

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That is 90% of the problem. The rest is about having not pushed it  down into position enough. :(

 

 

 

 

Edited by Beckmann
Posted

I think you could just glue some 1/4" wide strips to the bottom of each bulkhead and fair them in.  I dont know how thick but I am sure you can figure that out easily enough.  Then print out the bulkheads and hold them in position so you can mark the new corrected shape on the side if the strip.  Then fair to your new line carefully and slowly....

 

The trick here is to go slow and check the shape as you go.  It will be fine.  

 

Chuck

Posted

Today I did some sanding

 I think it  looks a bit better now. I fixed most of the bulkhead-tips. I had to cut loose one bulkhead and center it properly. So for folk, who glue the bulkheads: Mark the center on top of the bulkheads so you can check better if it is really accurate centered. Otherwise the outer line of bulkheads dance in and out. Every Millimeter out of the center will cause problems if you now what I mean

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Posted

Looks good. Nice recovery.

Jeff

 

In progress:
Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale

USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76

HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48

HMS Sphinx - Vanguard

Posted

Really nice...you are moving so quickly....

 

You are going to catch up to me and will be hanging around waiting on the next steps...LOL

Posted

I have still another model (LEON / A. Underhill) wich is waiting to being rigged. But whenever I have to decide, whether to do the rigging of LEON, or to proceed with HMS Winchelsea, the latter ALWAYS wins. But luckily there is still a lot to do in chapter one, and all the planks have to be cut… So I will be fine for the next weeks. And if I really catch up to you, LEON will be lucky to get her main mast or something else.

Matthias

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Very nice work....That looks very good and the spacers worked as they should.  You should however have sanded the tops of the transom pieces before you glued them in.   That will be difficult to do now but not impossible.   You should use the 3/64" thick transom (clamp it in position) so you can trace the shape of the transom top  and sand them to match.

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