HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Milw - Scale 1:48

[milw]

Hi all, just got my first parts from Chuck/Syren, and excited to find this group build for a transition towards ‘all scratch’!

cheers- Scott

[Chuck]

Awesome...time to start putting that stem together.

[milw]

And shop for a scroll saw and a mini table saw (Proxon type!). First step, print the plans!

[bdgiantman2]

 I really like my Dremel Scroll Saw that I got through Home Depot (should be $60, maybe a tad less). The saw is very accurate and easy to use, the only one issue I have is no tilt-base (although I don't really need it thanks to my disc and belt sander). I have yet to get a modeling table saw nor do I have any lathe as of yet. Small steps but do what I can with what I have.

 

Brian

[milw]

Thanks Brian! I may take that route, seeing as a 4” table saw runs $350-500 (!). Heres the dry fit of unsanded pieces for the stem!

[Chuck]

Dont forget your rabbet strip between those.  That changes everything and you would be surprised how much the shape changes.  So avoid tweaking your stem until after you can test with the rabbet strip in position.

 

Chuck

[milw]

Very good point, and a reminder to read the instructions carefully! Glued up and ready for softening the forward edges and tapering the head knee.

 

 

[milw]

...and, mwelp, already messed up and sanded the keel end down to 1/8th”, DOH!

Is this terrible enough that I should try replacing with a new part cut from the 1/4” cedar?

[JeffT]

I probably would but thats just me.

[Chuck]

Yes you should def. start over.  I could send you a new sheet of stem parts if you pay five bucks for shipping.  Send me a pm with your address.

[milw]

Ok, going to start over. Put together a building board and practicing with new jigsaw in the meantime; practice pieces and trying rub-on poly on the cedar:

Edited September 8, 2019 by milw
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[Stuntflyer]

Scott,

 

The knee looks nice! It looks like your trying to cut right on the bulkhead template lines. You could cut the bulkheads a 1/64" or so outside those lines to be safe. A lot easier to remove material than to add it.

 

Mike

[milw]

Thanks Mike, thats great advice. Now if I can only keep the cut line from wandering!

cheers- Scott

[Stuntflyer]

I find that a dull blade tends to wander. Is the blade worn?

 

Mike

[milw]

It’s the ‘new’ blade that came with the saw, but I can’t vouch for its quality. I’ve ordered a set of Flying Dutchman blades (seems appropriate ;)) and will install one of those. Any suggestion on TPI and speed for 1/4” ply?

[Rustyj]

Everyone has their own preference for blades and speed. I use a double tooth 24 TPI blade made by Saw Bird.

It's a very thin and has minimal tear out. As for speed I set mine at a middle speed.

Experiment with different blades and speeds on scrap wood and see what works best for you.

 

I hope this helps.

[milw]

Approaching the rigging stage for my 1:48 HMS Surprise, so refreshening on the Winchelsea- I'm going to go with the laser cut frames from Chuck, otherwise this will be a 5 year project!

 

[Matt D]

Good choice!  Every problem I’ve had on my Winnie has stemmed from my decision to cut out my own bulkheads.  It has definitely added a lot of time to my build.

[milw]

Frames! arrived today, 6 days after estimated delivery (thanks USPS new management). Lets see if image insertion direct from phone works!

[milw]

Progress on the keel, adding the monofilament bolts. A question on the false keel though- is it supposed to be one strip, or shorter sections with joints staggered from the keel joints? 

 

[Chuck]

Multiple with staggered sections.   Nice joint there!!!  well done. 😀

[milw]

Thanks Chuck! At least I can get one side looking tight, the other... not quite as good. In fact, I think I should redo the gammon knee and extension.

[Chuck]

I wouldnt worry about it.  The stuff on the stem will be all painted black so when the time comes you can just fill it and sand it smooth.  Not to mention that it would be near impossible to see that detail behind the head rails and head grating.

 

 

[milw]

All frames glued up! Almost no issues, only a few needed opening up of the slots with a file. Test fitted all before beginning to glue.

[Rustyj]

You're on your way now!

[milw]

Thanks Rusty! 

but Sigh, there are at least two things wrong now. One easily fixed (I put all frames with etch marks forward) and the other, not so easy perhaps. I was puzzled by the Chapter 1 mentioning 3 bow filler parts; no I say in my mind, theres 4: 2 copies of BF2 (identical, so that counts as one, maybe?) and two different BF3, obviously one for each side.

Today I unrolled the plan sheet again (going to tack it up after this!!) and lo and behold, theres a 3/64 “BF1”! But wait, those BFs were 1/4”... it slowly sank in, and with my glasses on I can now see that there are 3 BF pieces per side!

Arrghhh. BFs 2 and 3 solidly glued in place, meaning the inner space between the BF3s is now too small by 3/32”....

 

I think I can trim the inner ply off of the BF3s to remediate the space, and perhaps add 3/64” to both outsides? 
 

Other than that, I think I’m in good shape to begin fairing the frames. Wish me luck!

-Scott

[Chuck]

That sounds like a plan....that will work.  Just mark the sides for 3/64" to be removed and use a file or sanding stick.

[Edwardkenway]

Good save Scott,  it's a continual learning process with these builds isn't it?

Looking good though,  those laser cut bulkheads look really nice. 

[jfhealey]

Those are the little beggars you are referring to. I wondered where they went. Don't worry about them. Just shave off one ply of  bf2 and you will be fine. Good luck Scott

Fred

[milw]

Fairing underway, nothing like a long weekend to get stuff done! Nice weather helps too