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Posted

All,

 

This is the start of my very first building log.

 

My name is Shawn and I reside in Lincoln NE.  I don't know if you call it building, but have been trying this hobby for probably 20yrs.  The problems I run into are I seem to have 2 left thumbs and ham fists.  The second has been I take the approach of it's good enough, even though I know I can do better.  With this build I'm going to try the I know I can do better approach.  We shall see.  I use my modeling time as relaxation and therefore enjoy a few adult beverages, so that probably also contributes to my sloppyness.

 

Currently I'm in the fairing stage, I will get some pics once there is something interesting to show.

 

For now here are some obligitory pics.


Shawn

 

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Posted

Great to see your build log Shawn.   We have all been there with those bulkhead extensions.  Its usually an easy fix thankfully.   Looking forward to seeing more and refreshing to see another cherry version being made.

 

Chuck

Posted

OldChur,

 

It is a purchased item, there have numerous posts about its building jig.

 

In my option save yourself some money and create your own.  Again many post about how to go about that.

 

Shawn

Posted

Hi Shawn,

 

Welcome aboard! I'm sure you'll enjoy building the Winnie. Don't worry about miss steps, we all could fill volumes confessing ours.

Just take it slow and steady and continually check and recheck everything. Something I could do more of myself.  

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

Posted

Superb ! Fairing seems really successful ! And yes, this hull has really nice curves!

Jean-Paul

 

'You are not carving a bear with a chain saw here folks',

Chuck Passaro, ´Queen Anne Style Barge´ manual of instructions

 

Current builds :

 

Finished build :

 

Next on list :

  • HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Syren Ship Model - 1:48
  • 4 months later...
Posted

I haven't posted in awhile, much because I have outside honey do's...

 

I have worked a little bit on my Winny, but I'm finding me questioning myself.  If i could get a couple critiques it would be appreciated.  

 

I feel like maybe I went to far with my faring on frame 28?  Maybe also 27?  I'm just worried I didn't "leave enough meat on the bone".  Any observations you may have would help greatly.  Do I need to re-cut frame 28?  

 

Sorry if the pics are not the best.

 

Shawn

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Posted

From the  pictures it looks like you were a little to aggressive with the sanding. You can build the frame back up with stripe wood on the face if needed. I would wait until you've framed in the stern. Once that's done I would think it will give you better idea of just how much you are off. 

 

I hope this helps

 

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Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: Speedwell

 

 

Completed Build Logs:  HMS Winchelsea 1/48   Duchess of Kingston USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Welcome to the Winchelsea Project Shawn.  Rusty gave you some good advice.  If you aren't going to replace the frame I too would build up the edge with strip wood.  On one of my earlier models I got exceedingly aggressive sanding a frame and had to make repairs.  This is a problem that's not difficult to repair.

Edited by wyz
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I'm back at the Winni after sometime away.

 

It's time to start fairing the transom and the instructions state to take down to 3/32.  I for whatever reason cannot wrap my head around this.  I have checked several other logs and really cannot come up with the answer I'm looking for.

 

Do I take the whole transom down to the 3/32, or just from the filler pieces up?


Any help or guidance would be appreciated.


Thanks

Posted

Its a gradual taper to 3/32" thick along the top of the transom.  This is so the cap for the transom is not huge and too wide which is what you see on many models and kits.  The transom with at the cap should be narrow and elegant.   Not wide and chunky....same is true of the cap shear along the sides of the hull.   

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

In pictures and other build logs I'm seeing a couple pieces glued to the bottom of the lower counter.  Presumably these will hold the planking at the stern.  


I'm having trouble finding these pieces in the instructions how these should be fitted.


Any guidance would be appreciated.


Thanks 


Shawn

Posted

Its just any scrap wood.  Its not laser cut....Use the 1/4 x 3/16 strips.  They are just glued to the underside of the stern frames and faired.  Yu can also use a balsa block....anything really.

 

lowercounterplanks.jpg

 

 

Posted

Lots of ways to add these, I used balsa and shaped it as needed. They are essential though for terminating stern planking later. With the balsa I was able to make some minor adjustments as I was planking. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I cut out the gallery framing side profile from the plans and held it up as an overlay to check and position the framing locations. It helped me knowing I matched up with the plans. 

Regards,

Glenn

 

Current Build: Don't know yet.
Completed Builds: HMS Winchelsea HM Flirt (paused) HM Cutter CheerfulLady NelsonAmati HMS Vanguard,  
HMS Pegasus, Fair American, HM Granado, HM Pickle, AVS, Pride of Baltimore, Bluenose

  • 1 year later...
Posted

I've been trying to get back to this build, getting my juices flowing reading others logs.


In doing this I have learned that somehow I have managed to get everything with the Transom incorrect.  There is no outward curve and maybe even inward.  Things don't seem to line up at all.


Really don't know what I did, but my guess is the attitude of "good enough" has definitely crept in.


After much consideration of how to get this fixed and corrected, I have decided I'm going to start over.


Anxiously awaiting received my new frames and chapter 1 from Chuck.

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