Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48

[stuglo]

No - called locally "African Nut" . Finish with wipe-on poly

[stuglo]

The Rudder

2 main pieces, fore and aft (blade). The joint between them (Tabling) is simplified to a male/female arrangement. There is also a narrow backing piece aft, and a Sole piece,similar to a false keel.

 Interestingly, TFFM points out that the lowest point of the rudder is higher than the false keel.

**How many models have I strived to make it in line !! Ignorance is not always bliss!!**

 Using 12mm stock, with paper pattern cut-outs, make the 2 main pieces. I milled out the tabling. I left the base slightly overlong as suggested.

 TFFM suggests using black paper between joints, but previous experience was  not so good for me- the wood sticks to the paper, which then separates-perhaps a different card-type would be better.

 Anyway, I opted for epoxy, which leaves a black joint line, albeit thinner.

A Backing piece was similarly affixed.

 Cut-outs for the pintles(5) are next. Note not all are the same length.

 Their position should be checked to match the grooves in the sterpost, but the head of the rudder is still too big to fit through the port- a ruler and a prayer will have to suffice.

Again milled,+ with a curved piece for the bottom edge.

**Having looked ahead at the pintles, I realize I can’t make them as suggested, so I shortened the recess by 1.5mm-explaination next post**

 The narrow notches on the aft aspect were drilled and finished with a scalpel.

 5 bolts into the blade from aft, between each Pintle strap, and below the lowest.

  A square mortise in the middle of the rudder head (fore/aft) is made at right angle to fore surface, 4.77mm tapering to 3.71mm at exit on aft surface.

 This I made by drilling out (press) a 3.4 hole and using a succession of square files.

  Now a Bearding Line- tapering somewhat downwards, is shown on the pattern. Note its changing relation to the pintle recesses. Either side is filed to a central line on the fore surface. So looking end-on, it appears as a flattened triangle. The beard line stops a few mm short of the mortise in the Head, But looking ahead this appears not to leave enough room for the Head hoops, if more than 1 is fitted below the mortise.

  The Rudder now needs to be tapered to match the taper of the Stern Post -7.99mm to 5.5mm at the keel. 

( I bought a taper jig to use with a table saw for such needs, but can’t use it as the Rudder is too wide for the table saw to cut!! )

So milling at using a wedge at one end, sanding board and elbow grease. 

 Trial fitting- some minor filing of rudder Port required. 

I haven’t decided how to fashion the Pintles yet, but in any case, will postpone fitting the Rudder to a later stage.

 

[stuglo]

[dvm27]

Nice job Stu. You might try using Titebond or carpenters glue mixed with black pigment powder. It doesn’t affect the bonding and leaves a nice clean line after sanding. As with all glue I always clean up with water and a small brush after clamping. Much easier to remove while wet.

 

 

[stuglo]

2 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Nice job Stu. You might try using Titebond or carpenters glue mixed with black pigment powder. It doesn’t affect the bonding and leaves a nice clean line after sanding. As with all glue I always clean up with water and a small brush after clamping. Much easier to remove while wet.

 

 

Tried it once, made a mess, but I will try again ( It was charcoal powder used by artists. My good friend Shota, says he was successful with just a small amount of powder in the PVA glue.)

[Maury S]

I've found a few drops of Red and Green food dye into a bottle of Tite-Bond or LMI glue makes a nice dark brown glue.  Always wash off excess.  (LMI = Luthiers Musical Instrument glue.  It has a dye in it to show up under black light and you can see where it needs washing.)

Maury

[stuglo]

Lower Deck Breast Hook

 Actually, above the lower deck.

Required temp. removal of foremost bulkhead.

The upper surface is 16.43mm above the lower deck planks,sitting in the uppermost mortise of the Stemson, and lies horizontally.

Blank of 4.24mm.

Trial fitting with printed plan and card.

The upper and lower aft edges are chamfered.

 

The Bulkhead replaced, with a cut out to accommodate the Hook

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Hook

  Similar to that fitted for the lower deck- incl. An Eking either side

Thickness 4.24mm -0.53mm more than the Ekings. Therefore Let Down by the same amount as it sits on the Clamp.

Both upper and lower aft edges are chamfered.

 Again using pattern, card shaped to size and transferred to the blank.

 Make Ekings similarly, remembering the blanks are 3.71mm. These are stuck to the Hook while off the model-surface being in line.

 Due to the RoundingUp of the beams, the upper surface of the ensemble  will need some shaping and TFFM says the underside follows suit. It also suggests to allow some extra thickness of the Hook blank for this, but I (?cheated) and reduced the let down and will sand to form when the first few fore beams and structures are fitted.

 Went ahead and glued in place before making mortises carling and ledges, which may have been easier.

 

Upper Deck Beams

Previously made to enable placement of Posts and Bulkheads.

4.77 mm wide and 3.71 thick -Rounded Up to equivalent of 3.18mm for longest beam.

** Mark centre line on beams equidistant from hull sided and NOT centre of beam itself- simple string fore-aft.

[stuglo]

Still problems uploading , so separate post 

[stuglo]

Upper Deck cont.

 TFFM suggests that these beams may not have been let down. Seems strange to me, but given the heights of my clamps, I don’t need to.

 The Carlings are generally 3.45mm wide and 2.65mm deep.( hatch covers eg are 3.84x3.18)

 The Ledges are (also with exceptions) 1.86mm wide and 1.6mm deep.

 The Hanging Knees (present on all beams) 3.45mm wide and shaped similarly to those of the lower deck- but varied according to hull shape.”Beam” arm 21.2mm.Hanging arm, 28.6mm.

 The Lodging Knees are 3.18mm wide, beam arm, 23.85mm and hull arm length determined by distance between adjacent beams. Aft end is notched to allow the Hanging Knee to fit against the hull.

  Non-glued corners are chamfered.

 

Beam #2

 Fore- there are 2 pairs of Carlings angled towards the Hull. Some trimming of the bulkheads is necessary. 

Between #2 Beam and #3 Beam, there are a pair of Carlings.(part of the  Fore Mast Partners structure) 4.24mmX2.65mm deep, and set 12.72mm apart. 

 These Carlings are Half Joined (recessed) under the beams #2 and#3, so that they sit with the upper surface 0.53mm below the surface of the beams.

As the Beam thickness is 3.71, leaving the required 0.53mm will require mortissing of the ends of the Carlings as well.

  I milled off 1.71mm from the underside of the beams, and 1.47mm from the ends of the Carlings

(The construction of the Fore Mast Partners are somewhat complex and only understood by reference to the 3D rendition).

 The various mortisses are milled before fixing: slightly narrower than necessary, so that some final alignment can be accommodated,with a chisel scalpel.

 I then fitted the Beam, made the lodging Knees from their pattern, with their mortises, and fitted them. Then used the general pattern for the Hanging Knees, fitted and fixed. 

Finally, Carlings and the various Ledges.(The outer ledges are wider than usual-I made them at 3mm.).

 

 

[stuglo]

Please ignore the stuff about the carlings for the foremast partners-its completely wrong. Corrections with next post.

[stuglo]

Carlings and Fore Mast Partners Revisited.

My previous was incorrect-my understanding faulty, The 3D rendering is good but lacks measurements. My geriatric dyslexia required (again) a brainwave on awakening at 3 am and attending to the problem. (Unfortunately, the Bosun objects to my use of anything other than a pencil and paper-definitely no actual building at this hour.)

Anyway, the problem is the relationships between the Carlings, the Beams and the Chocks.

 Most of the information is there (TFFM) spread over several pages.

 (I will use the actual “inches” rather than the metric

 scale for simplicity.)

 Firstly, the the Carlings are 10in deep.The ends sit under the beams #2and#3, forming a Half Joint.

  The Beam (7ins deep)is scored-undercut, by 4 ins.

  The Carling is mortised,so as to leave its lower surface 1in below the lower surface of the beam- That means 5ins removed. Also it means that the upper surface of the Carling is 1in below the upper surface of the beam.

   The Chocks, a pair fore and aft, sit on the Beams and the Carlings.(The Chocks are formed by a large Cross Chuck and a smaller Corner Chuck. Together they form a horseshoe shape. For simplicity, I made them as one piece. 

   The Chocks are nominally 10in thick and let down on the beam so a depth of 6 ins are proud, i.e. 4in removed.

   They also sit on the inner aspect of the Carlings. These are let down by 3ins (4in-1in).

   As there is a gap between the arms of the fore and aft pair of corner Chocks, this area is NOT let down, leaving the full height of the carling, between them. The outer (hull) side also remains at full depth-leaving a pattern like a “T” with a short “leg”.

   Only NOW  I begin to be able to interpret the drawings in TFFM

 

To be honest, it was only later that I realised this,after the Chocks were fitted. I therefore “faked” it by adding this”T”. Couldn’t face another remake. I’ll do it properly for the other Mast Partners.

 

   Note- as these Carlings sit lower, the ledges are left 1in proud.

 

[stuglo]

Upper Deck (cont.) Beams #5 to #10.

(Paper  strip to cover open lower deck to prevent bits dropping through)

#5  The Beam sits in the mortises of the Riding Bitt Pin .

Bulkhead walls removed and adapted to allow for the hanging knee.

#6 and #7. Have the forehatch and therefore inner carlings closer together and without ledges.  

#8 and #9. Regular features   

#10. Aft, the mortise for the  inboard Carling is not in line with those fore and aft , in order to form the support for the Main Hatch

  At the hull, fore to the beam, the normal arrangement changes to Opposed Lodging Knees ( similar to lower deck ). The aft of the pair sits beneath its partner and is fixed first. It is Let Down on the Clamp, to allow this.

The aft ledge is mortised into the upper Knee, about midpoint between the Beams. It is wedge shaped, the narrower end toward the Knee.

[stuglo]

Upper Deck (cont.) #11

 A wider gap between Beam with special structures (as lower deck).

Firstly the Beam Arms. TFFM mentions that the Vulture has a paired arrangement and a triangular mast partner. My Atalanta plans show a similar arrangement, with what seems to be an overwrite on an erased area. This arrangement (like wings) is appealing to the eye, but I lack  detail for the modified Main Mast Partner, so will go with TFFM plans.

  The Beam Arms, are 3.71mm thick, and are tabled 0.8mm into #11 Beam. 

  The position of the fore inner and outer carlings similarly marked and checked that they line up with the carlings already fitted to foreward beams. 

 The position of the Tabling notches are taken from the plan and marked, with reference to the inner Carling. Note the symmetry-teeth and gaps 5.83mm

   The aft outer Carling is inline, but the inner Carling is nearer the centre line, just outside the Pump Tubes.

    The Beam is turned over and the position of the Mast Partner Carlings marked so that they are 14.84mm apart. These Carlings are 6.36mm wide and 5.3mm deep. The Beam is undercut by 2.12 mm deep and 6.36mm wide.

    The various mortises and notches are milled

Before fixing, I made the Partner Carlings-(6.36x5.3) with a mortise of 2.65mm to Half Joint to the Beam, leaving its level 0.53mm below the Beam.

     This  was fortunate because I found that the upper lourve planks need trimming back.

This done, The Beam is fixed.(note it sits on the fore and aft walls of pump room and there is no pillar)

    The Beam Arm is made with the cut-out TFFM pattern- the “teeth” position checked by offering up to the Beam. The outer arm trimmed to fit against the hull.

    The inner Carlin is dry fitted and the inner end of the Beam Arm is trimmed to fit. 

  The Lodging Knee can now be cut to size, mortise for ledge marked and milled, and the part glued in place.

   While still dry fitted, the positions of Carlings and Ledges are marked. These are milled and the Beam Arm glued in place.

  The Hanging Knee, against the #10 Beam is made and fitted.

  An Iron lodging Knee, 2mm wide is made from a leather strip, attaching the Beam Arm to the Hull.

  A Packing Piece, 3.18 wide aX 1.6mmdeep, sits over the hull arm of the Iron, filling the gap between the Beam Arm and Hanging Knee.

  The Outer Carling is divided by the Beam Arm, dry fitted, ledges aligned, marked and milled before fixing.

 

[stuglo]

Forgot a picture

[stuglo]

Upper Deck - Main Mast Partner

   Similar to foremart counterpart.

The Carlings (6.36mm x 5.3mm deep) have already been made.

They are set 14.84mm apart. The fore outer aspect needs trimming to allow for the Pins of the Main Topsail Bitt.

The Carlings are half joined to #12 Beam which is cut underside by 2.12mm.

The upper surface of the Carlings are partially recessed to allow the Mast Partner to sit on the beam after being let down by 2.12mm. The depth removed is 1.59mm (2.12-0.53) following the “footprint” of the Partners.

The octagonal opening for the Pumps are filed out-but became more round than intended.

NOTE -Hanging Knees, after #10 Beam, are now placed FORE between beams

Also note that there  are 4 ledges in outer group, and 5 for inner group.

 

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Beam #12

Note inner Carling needs adapting to take the Pin of the Main Jeer Bitt- a simple notch but as it is will be a weakened area/joint, I reinforced it with superglue to underside before fixing in position.

Beams #13 and #14-regular, but inner Carling gap is narrower at 24mm to accommodate the Capstan Step-

This is a solid plank between Beams 14 and 15.

Size given as 10.07mm X7.42mm with a hole of 2.65mm to receive the Spindle of the Capstan.

This hole DOES NOT go through the but to a depth suggested of +/- 2.5mm.

The aft side is let down on Beam#15 by 3.71 so that a similar hight sits above the beam.

Note this aft side only covers half the Beam width.The fore side is semicircular, similarly let down, but extends slightly foreward of the Beam it overlaps {#14)

Along either side are Support Pieces, 7.95x5.3mm.

These are also let down so their upper surfaces are in line with the Step.

TFFM mentions them probably fitting into a Rabbet on the sides of the central plank, but having cut them to size already, I realized that to fit into the Rabbit would narrow them significantly.

I fixed the Plank and Side pieces together and then milled the letting down as a unit.

The underside area is rounded up to “Fay” with the Beams curvature.

TFFM points out that the upper surface would have to be horizontal to allow the Capstan to turn- the illustration shows the Let Down of  the sides where it sits on the Carlings, to be angled. I can’t see how this can be done unless the Let Down on Beams #14 ans 15 are different.

I took an easy way out and, copying the angle between the beams, set the Step in the mill and “scimmed” off to the horizontal.

It leaves the piece thinner, but the same above the beam level.

( Worth noting that in this, and some other things such as the depth of the spindle hole, the Sheer and Profile plans differ)

[stuglo]

Capstan Step-Revisited

I was unhappy with the first effort. The appearance of the wood and slightly off centre hole is apparent in the picture, so I remade it.

(I also made the rabbet)

[allanyed]

4 hours ago, stuglo said:

I was unhappy with the first effort. The appearance of the wood and slightly off centre hole is apparent in the picture, so I remade it.

These are the greatest words I have heard this morning.  Everyone should read these.   Too many times the "it's good enough" attitude comes into play.

Allan

[stuglo]

#17 Upper Deck Beam

Supports the forward part of the Mizzen Mast Partner. This is of the type build for the Lower Deck. The supporting Carling are 3.98x2.65mm and half underlap the beams, so that their upper surface is 0.4mm below this level of the beams. 

I made the groove in the underside of the beam 1.7mm deep and the mortise of the Carling 1.3mm. 

The Carlings are set 11.0 mm apart.

The Plank Partner is a single plank 2.12mm thick and 17.49nn wide. It is let down on the beams by 0.4mm so it sits on the Carlings also.

The Ledges that fit these Carlings are left proud by 0.4 to compensate.

Aft, the inner Carlings are in line with the support Carlings and therefore appear to sit on those Carlings which are mortised under the beam. The 3D rendition also seems to show this.

    Murphy’s Law is in effect. Either the spaces are narrowing or my fingers are getting fatter!!. In any case, fitting the various bits is getting more difficult-especially the Hanging Knees- and more pieces are being dropped and difficult to retrieve.

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Beams cont.

#19. Inner Carlings support a Scuttle, otherwise regular.

#20. Note no Lodging Knees, but rather a Packing Piece to support a wedge shaped  Ledge.

#21. No Knees (? that's why short beams ha! ha!)-beams and Ledges directly onto Knee of Wing Transom

#22. Onto W.T.Knee, outer Carling also onto WTK, no outer Ledges. Inner Carling mortised onto Wing Transom, with a single wedge shaped Ledge between them.

Note temporary Forecastle Deck Beam #3 placed as marker for the Bowsprit Step, which sits onUpper Deck #2 and scored on F. Deck Beam. #3

[stuglo]

Bowsprit Step

   This will sit on fore aspect of #2 Upper Deck Beam, scores into the #3 Forecastle Beam and continues upward to form the Foretopsail Sheet Bitts.

According to my plans, this is not a straight line- between the beams it is angled aftward (6deg) then vertically above. 

 I could make each side out of one piece from a wide block, or in two stages, joining at level of the forecastle beam.

   Checking the Peter Goodwin book, this seems acceptable (and is certainly easier).

These uprights are 4.24mm square and separated by 13.78mm

A rough beam is made for the forecastle deck-3.45x2.65mm with a roundup equivalent to 3.18mm(over max width).

 The bases are notched with pieces at 6deg off the vertical with the mill. The upper end cut to reach the mid thickness of the forecastle beam, and notched at a similar angle. While in the mill, the acute tip milled to horizontal, to allow simple sitting of the vertical Bitt.

The Step is separated by the Step Chock- 2 planks of 3.18mm thickness rabbeted together- and in turn rabbeted into the uprights-a 1.6 mill bit worked wonders.

There is an additional rabbet to be made on the lower outer corners. This is for the Manger Planks. Discussed in a later chapter, but stated as level to height of the lower point of the Hawse Hole.

 The position and size of the Bowsprit mortise is left for later.

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Port Stops.

These are linings of port sills -form a rabbet for port lids. Lower stop and 2

sides.

 (Most kit models I made have an upper stop as well.The books I’ve checked show this or are not clear on the subject but I’ve come to trust TFFM.) 

  They are 0.8mm thick. The sweep ports also have a similar lining but 0.4mm.

The Stops are recessed to the inner edges of the planking and sill. The inner edges are flush to the frame . The outer edges are shaped to fit and the inner overlong to be sanded to shape after fitting and gluing.

   This seemed simple, but gave me no end of (self imposed) trouble. Because of slope and initial misunderstanding that they needed to include width of the Quikwork (internal planking) I made them very overlong. 

   Also, I’d previously applied oil or poly to the Wales, and the port sills and wall didn’t “take” the PVA glue.

  Also I cut the wood for the side sills with the grain running up-down. When I came to sand the grossly overlong inner parts, they kept separating from the port wall and then a few broke.

It took a while to realise that I must clean the walls with alcohol, narrow the pieces off the model before gluing again. I was too stupid and stubbon to remake them all again, so I persevered with what I had.

  This sanding of the inner hull also highlighted the deficiencies of some of these frames.  To be corrected or hidden soon.

[giampieroricci]

great work on the upper deck!!

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Waterway.

Separating the Deck from the Hull Frames.

Made width 6.36mm with thickness 2.13 at its outer ¼-(supposed to be “bearded back” 0.2mm-but will ignore),on which rests the Spirketting (inner hull strakes).

The inner ⅔ is thinned to match the thickness of the planks -1.6mm.

There is a slope of 1mm between the two thicknesses.

 Thought initially to use card but found that the printed cut outs matched pretty well and easier to trim the wood directly.

Joints of hooked scarph make it easier to fit from stern ,forewards.

The foremost pair of either side are separated by a small chock behind the stem.

I intend to plank only one half if the deck and will omit the Spirketting on that side.

I therefore masked this side by2.5mm while fitting the lower Spirketting to other.

Final thinning after deck planks are fitted, but initial work using a Proxxon wand sander.

(This is a wonderful tool but until now of limited use because the supplied adhesive sanding paper only lasts a matter of minutes. I found that now, even used cut-outs from self-adhesive 5in. Disks, work  like magic and last)

Anway, fitting a shortened sanding square with the last 1mm of the head masked (plastic decorative strip) allowed me to sand away most of the excessive thickness.

(Alternatives such as milling on the curve, or making a bespoke scraper, seem more difficult)

 

[stuglo]

Upper Deck Spirketting

 These are the strakes #22 and #23

 They are 1.6mm thick. Top and Butt joints.

 The upper edge of  #23 is in line with the bases of the Gun Ports (except aft). It is also    horizontal, NOT right angles to the face of the frame.

 The upper edge is chamfered to meet the thinner Quickwork above.

 The foremost #23 is wider so as to include the lower part of the Hawse Holes.

 

Upper Deck Quickwork

 These are strakes #24,#25,#26- filling the gap between the Gun Ports.

 They are 1.06mm thick.

 The foremost #24 encloses the rest of the Hawse Holes.

[No Idea]

Such a complex build - amazing work!

[stuglo]

Scuppers - Upper Deck Drainage Tubes

  Quite apprehensive about making these - opportunity for big time screw-up, especially trying to angle down from the outer side of the Waterway, to the Wale at the correct and consistent line.

Using the TFFM drawing, estimate angle at 15deg., and use my digital protractor to guide my Dremel drill. Use a 8mm bit for a guide which will allow me to correct afterwards.

There are 7 Scuppers- 5 with an inner diameter of 2.12mm.

Another 2, the Manger and the Pump Dale,are 2.65mm (All shown on the various plans.)

We are told the Scuppers pass between the hull Frames where they are reinforced by small Scupper Support Blocks.  Most lie beneath Sweep Ports, where frames are”shifted”.

They are supposedly lined, but I haven’t found a way of doing it yet. HELP and SUGGESTIONS welcomed.

 

[giampieroricci]

 

Some time ago, Druxley pointed out to me that there is an error on his mylar plan: the positions of the scupper outlets are one strake of plank too low! They should come through the black strake, not the upper wale strake. In Volume II the illustration on pages 14-15 is correct.

Maybe there is still time to correct....

[stuglo]

Not really, without re-making the Wale. I remember the correction, but forgot to refer back to the correct plan. But Peter Goodwin's book shows them going through the Wale. (and states that they are rarely shown on plans- as is with those I have). The slope angle would be too slight in my build. Also the 3D rendition shows through the Wales. Perhaps the illustration on pages 14-15 need correction. The experts are invited to comment.

(PS luckily, I haven't rushed to correct this yet)