Z-25 by RGL - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/350 - PLASTIC - German destroyer April 1945

[RGL]

1 minute ago, Egilman said:

He does move fast, lots of skill being shown, and the experience.... Man, some day I'll get there.... But right now, figuring out the PE is like climbing Mt Everest....

Reading the instructions is usually like climbing mount Everest 

[Landlubber Mike]

If there are even instructions!

[Egilman]

8 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

If there are even instructions!

Yeah especially how to fold the PE, Dragon didn't include any such assistance....

[Landlubber Mike]

25 minutes ago, Egilman said:

Yeah especially how to fold the PE, Dragon didn't include any such assistance....

 

It can be like origami depending on the piece.  Have to plan out every fold because if you fold things incorrectly the first time and have to fold it back the other way, the PE may break apart at the fold line.  Sometimes if a particular piece has a series of folds, I find it better to add a tiny bit of CA to lock in some of the folds.  For example, if you are folding something like a box, get some of the sides up, add a touch of CA to the interior lines, then get the remaining sides and top of the box completed.

 

One thing I learned - sometimes the PE will have what looks like a very narrow channel or groove cut out on one side of the fold line.  That usually gives an indication which way the piece folds.  For the life of me (maybe the two margaritas I just had are affecting my memory), I can't recall which way the fold goes.  I believe the grooved side is on the outside of the fold, but hopefully someone can correct me if I'm wrong.  Another way to tell is often times the PE will have the decorative outside versus a plain flat side.  Naturally, the plain flat side is the inside or to-be-glued side.

[Egilman]

10 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

One thing I learned - sometimes the PE will have what looks like a very narrow channel or groove cut out on one side of the fold line.  That usually gives an indication which way the piece folds.  For the life of me (maybe the two margaritas I just had are affecting my memory), I can't recall which way the fold goes.

It's a relief etched into the brass to make folding easier, they usually go to the inside, if they are intended as detail the instructions will tell you which way to fold it...

 

But then when they don't tell you, generally it goes inside....

[Landlubber Mike]

Yeah, brain fart on that one.  I believe you're right, they go on the inside otherwise you wouldn't have a clean edge.  

 

Hang in there on the PE.  After a little bit, it's not too bad.  I don't know if you have PE ladders that you're dealing with, but I find those pretty tricky - especially ones where the stairs fold out.  I think I've figured out a way that works for me (essentially, fold the stair out first while on the fret, then cut out and bend up the rails), but I was glad I had spares around to ruin/practice on.

Edited March 13, 2021 by Landlubber Mike

[Kevin]

very nice, the detail looks fantastic

lol wonder how many i would have in my fleet now if i stuck to 1/350, and not the larger scale builds

[RGL]

Stairs, I bend the sides in first, then use the top of a scalpel to push the individual step out when I’m holding it between my fingers. 

[Landlubber Mike]

8 hours ago, RGL said:

Stairs, I bend the sides in first, then use the top of a scalpel to push the individual step out when I’m holding it between my fingers. 

 

I tried doing that at 1/700 and it was too tiny and the brass too fragile.  Ruined quite a few!

 

On my current 1/350, the Infini stairs fell apart when I bent the sides in.  The Hasegawa were a little stiffer/thicker brass and were fine.  Eventually I'll get it right!

[Old Collingwood]

15 hours ago, RGL said:

Stairs, I bend the sides in first, then use the top of a scalpel to push the individual step out when I’m holding it between my fingers. 

I tried that  - couldn't master it.

 

OC.

[Canute]

Sometimes a photoetcher will take too much off the metal where he wants bends made. I had some stainless steel ladders and got the stiles (sides) bent OK, but the tiny attachment pins broke off as I started to bend the parts. And it was in HO scale (1/87). Talked to a modelmaker buddy about those ladders and that was his answer. Took too much metal off.

[Egilman]

7 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

On my current 1/350, the Infini stairs fell apart when I bent the sides in.  The Hasegawa were a little stiffer/thicker brass and were fine.  Eventually I'll get it right!

GMM gives you a PE tool for bending theirs etched right into the fret..... makes it easy....

 

But I will second the dull #2 blade for forming them technique, once you get the hang of it it's the fastest method of all.....

[Old Collingwood]

3 hours ago, Egilman said:

GMM gives you a PE tool for bending theirs etched right into the fret..... makes it easy....

 

But I will second the dull #2 blade for forming them technique, once you get the hang of it it's the fastest method of all.....

If it was like me  -  I needed  Ten stairs to try to do one  with the treads  turning  - still never  managed it  hence why I got lots of insurance claims from sailors sliding down the stairs.........😬

 

OC.

[RGL]

Preshading 

[RGL]

Lower hull done. 

[Old Collingwood]

Excellent as always Greg.

 

OC.

[RGL]

So a bit of experimentation, a few thin lines of Red/Brown at the seams, then a run over of AK rust streaks then a few tiny drops of light rust. I’ll need a bit of alge next then a tiny tiny bit of salt 

[amateur]

Bit late to join, but I will follow the remainder!

 

Jan

[RGL]

Hull and superstructure base coat done. 

[RGL]

Using AK Worn effects (I put it on yesterday) I wore away some paint. Filters next, but considering the amount of work needed on the deck I’ll do that next. 

[RGL]

The deck detail is amazing, so a dark wash then a rusty wash, then a dry brush to bring out the details 

[Old Collingwood]

Those AK  washes mate  - are they acrylic or enamel?   how do  you get on with the thinners smell if they are enemel?   I have two of the Mig  ones in enamel  and the smell  off them is like using industrial grade turpentine.........so strong.

 

OC.

[RGL]

Yes they are, but the AK white spirit is odourless. Can’t smell a thing!  

[RGL]

Hull weathering done. I’m pretty happy with it. 

[Old Collingwood]

44 minutes ago, RGL said:

Yes they are, but the AK white spirit is odourless. Can’t smell a thing!  

Thanks mate.

 

OC.

[RGL]

Superstructures done up and weathered, next is a tonne of tiny details that need to be added, 

[Old Collingwood]

I'm loving the detail weathering you are doing  - picking out the wear areas on the superstructer  -  looks top dog mate.

 

OC.

[lmagna]

I agree, your practice at doing these types of finishes is really showing.

[amateur]

Pretty worn out that ship. They should put a couple of men to work with a brush and a can of paint 

Did the real Z25 one ever reach that state, or is this "pure artistry"? (and artistry it is, as usual)

btw I like the pic where you hold her in your (at least, I think it is yours   ) hand, because that is the only one where she really shows her real size. 

Jan

 

 

[RGL]

I’m going to say maybe? By the end of the war they were pretty much used non stop to evacuate troops and people from the Soviet army and give fire support so I suppose they would not have had much maintance. Of course the photos after the war show her in a better condition but I doubt if the crew just walked away (but they may have) and it was eventually given to the French as the Hoche. 

Edited March 18, 2021 by RGL