HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Bubblehead - 1:48

[BubbleHead]

I have a dilemma about printing and which scale to use? 

Printing  No 1 bulkhead with the scale.

Print it normal printer is 100% and the scale measures 3/16". Looks good and the bottom of it comes right to the bottom of the false keel. But as I said the scale is 3/16". The width of the bulkhead is 8 11/16" at the second red line, I assuming this is the bottom sill gun port. 

Now the dilemma

When I adjust the percentage to 105% to make the scale that's on the print to 1/4" the bulkhead becomes 1/4" Larger and 1/8" taller, The width is 9 1/6" at the second red line and the bottom hangs over the false keel 1/6". But the scale reads 1/4" now.

The false keel prints from the printer the scale reads 1/4".

Which do I use print normal or adjust the scale to 1/4"?

TJ Sorry don't know what I did but they printed out fine.

 

 

  

 

 

Edited March 26, 2021 by BubbleHead

[Matt D]

This sounds very strange.  I know that the first time I printed mine, I let the printer do its default, which turned out to be reduced to 95% give or take.  Your problem seems much more severe.  I recommend you download the bulkhead files and take them via thumb drive to an office supply store or fedex business store and ask them to print them for you at 100% scale.  There are either one or two sheets that need to be printed on 11x17 paper, too.

[Chuck]

Set the print setup to “no scale”

 

that will print them at 100%
 

very strange indeed.

 

I would see if someone else can print one out at a friends house or like was mentioned go to staples or something like that.  Your printer seems screwed up a lot.  
 

 

[wyz]

Yes, take it to a professional printer.  I used Tyco and everything came out perfect.  Don't use your printer as it's very likely you will start this project all messed up.

Tom

[BubbleHead]

Thank  you. I downloaded everything again, set the printer to custom 100% and #1 bulkhead scale read 1/4" and when printed and compared to the false keel (put in it's slot) it fits perfectly the bottom of the bulkhead hit the bottom of the false keel. I printed cut them out and ready for gluing and cutting and shaping. Staples a mile away and when I had all the others printed thought about having the bulkheads printed but nan I can do it, ha ha.

Tom 

[BubbleHead]

Thank you Chuck, chapete 1 arived today in perfect condition. All most ready for it.

Tom

[BubbleHead]

After ten thousand mistakes and redo's I finlay get to build something. Had fun though reparing the false keel to the print. Hull fairing next. Used the camera first (bad pic need new camera) went to phone that was a joke trying to go from phone to hear, bad pic too. 

TJ

[Wacom]

Those frames are looking good, take your time with  the fairing, its the foundation for eveything else👍👍

[BubbleHead]

Thank you Reg. They came out really good and square on both sides.  That was my next question fairing at the bow.

As can be seen the frameing fits good (the top one fits like the botton one must of bumped it) and if I do any sanding they will end up short or not fitting probabl short, don't know what to do hear. I could make a new one but that's not the ponit. The rest there is no or little fairing other than to get the bumps out.

Thank you 

Tom 

Edited July 24, 2021 by BubbleHead

[Chuck]

They will fit fine.  You haven't faired the bulkheads yet.  The forward edge of that first bulkhead will be greatly reduced with the proper bevel.  The port framing will fit much deeper after fairing and you will soon find out it is slightly too long.  This is why in the instructions i write that the bulkheads should be faired before installing the port framing. It will make positioning the ports framing more accurate.

[BubbleHead]

Thank you Chuck. I read that part now that you reminded me. The framing is just in there with a little rubber glue. Also do I think one is in the in the wrong place,I am supposed to know how to read a print, thats what my resume say's but after this I wouldn't count on it. 

Tom

[BubbleHead]

It's been along time since I've been hear, gun ports and farring. Started inside faring and what a mess. The day befor I read Chuck blog about slowing down I told my self you got to excited in a hurry you have to slow down. The reslut in my excitment was a mess. I will be on gun port and inborad farring and most likely repair for a while. Thank You Chuck for the reminder.

Tom

 

[FrankWouts]

Any updates to share with us Tom?

Frank

Edited October 29, 2021 by FrankWouts

[BubbleHead]

Houston I think I have a problem. I thought I would be done with inborad farring guess not.  I have to do a little extra, I don't see where on the plans or in the  instructions to do this step.  I was starting to clean up was getting the vac hose out and heard a crash turned and no ship on the bench uh-oh didn't put in the work stand.  New aft frames needed and I think I can fix the keel back to be straght again will see.  I will be a little longer in chapter one.

Tom

[Rustyj]

Oh man that's a tough one Tom. Take your time and I'm sure you can get it back in shape.

[BubbleHead]

Hello: I'm really running late now. Got the repairs done and thought now I can finally build something. Stern framing up next this looks fun, in my case no such luck. After a few weeks of trying to put the lights (window) spacers in, rubber bands, gluing ungluing parts to see if I could keep them in with rubber bands still just breathe on them, they fell out. Sorry Mr. Passaro I just couldn't make them work for me, so this is what worked for me, and everything fell into place. Everything is just dry fitted now.

Tom       

[FrankWouts]

Hi Tom,
Great that you fixed those broken frames. How did you do that?
What am I seeing in those last pictures with the stern framing? Can you explain what you are doing there?

I don't see any windows from the inside??
Or is this bent piece of multiplex only a placeholder and not glued on?

Edited February 16, 2022 by FrankWouts

[BubbleHead]

I'll try to explain what I did.  First I glued the framing guide to birch plywood and used a 6.6 end mill (this end mill makes a good fit for birch plywood) to make the slots all most all the way through where the frames go. When the frames are installed in the jig it naturaly made the curve and held them in. Then trimmed the bottom of the jig to  the tic markes where the bottom sills go, lined up all tic marks on the frames and jig and installed the lower sills. Then I cut the upper sills out of the jig the top was a bit long to make it stifer now I have a two pice jig. Install the bottom jig fits to the installed bottom sills, top jig to tic marks. Install window guides then fit and glue upper sils. When dry frameing jigs of walaw stern frame compleat. All most for got verry inportain step when I first put the frames in the jig I then set it on the bench and made sure all frame bottoms were even and the readjuste tick marks whitch I didn't have to. When it was finnished it fill right inthe stern, all most at the correct angle.

Broken frams were unglued and new frams were made.          

[BubbleHead]

[FrankWouts]

Great idea making such a jig Tom!

When gluing the stern filler pieces, I had to do some clamping acrobatics holding the stern frames in position after gluing them in.

It's a miracle my stern came out allright.

Your stern  looks gently curved right from the start this way!

Frank.

Edited February 16, 2022 by FrankWouts

[BubbleHead]

 Frank to my suprize it made the curve. The frames fit a little tight in there slots. As I put each one in had to bend each slot a little open to get the frames in and it created the curve. Then pursh all frame bottoms on the bench to make them even and all lines on the mark.   I tried everything for three days short of rubbuer glue to keet thoese little devels in.

 

Tom

[BubbleHead]

I finally got all my mistakes, redos, crashes fixed and ready to move onto chapete two. Hopefulley I'll do better.

Hear is my rendition of the ballard's. What do you think should the top be thinner they are just under 1/16" or just take them off and put new one's on as the square is a little small.

Tom

[BubbleHead]

I finally get to move on to chapter two. Made another Ballare didn't like the first one didn't like. 

[Chuck]

Looks great!

[BubbleHead]

Thank You Sir. Cut up some battans and ran them for the wales, to my suprise they followed the lines on the frames that is all but one frame. Both sides measure out as a match that was the bigest suprise. I used doubble stick taspe as you can see for the alignment of the battan. At least I'm not moveing backwards any more yet.

Edited March 1, 2022 by BubbleHead

[BubbleHead]

Please question on the Black Strake and Wales.  You lay down the first layer of planks 3/64 thick for the wales and 1/64 thick for the black strake (according to the materials list) then add the planking above the black strake around the gun port whitch is 3/64 thick. Is correct, if so then when adding the second layer of the black strake you have to fit it in the hole between the whales and gun port (upper planking). Is this correct. Looking at some pic it looks like in the first layer of the black strake is the same thickness as the wales. 

2: Is the black strake flush, even with the wales and stand proud gun port planking.

Or wales stand proud of the black strake and blake stands proud of the gun poud of the gun port planding.                               

[Chuck]

You plank the first layer all the way to the sheer.  Then add the second layer of the wales 3/64" thick.   Then when that is done you add the second layer of the black strake.  Which is 1/32" thick or even slightly thinner like .025" thick.    

 

 

[glbarlow]

As Chuck notes the first layer is all the same thickness, it is the second layer where the black strake is thinner. 

[BubbleHead]

Thank you very much:  I see you finnish the wales then plank up above.

The first plank thats run at the bulk head marks that is one piece from bow to stern to set every thing is that right?

Edited March 6, 2022 by BubbleHead

[FrankWouts]

On 3/6/2022 at 10:52 PM, BubbleHead said:

Thank you very much:  I see you finnish the wales then plank up above.

The first plank thats run at the bulk head marks that is one piece from bow to stern to set every thing is that right?

Hi Tom,
No, you cannot saw one entire wale plank from bow to stern from the AYC blocks Chuck provides, that is, if you got them from him.
Also, it would not be realistic, as trees in 1:48 cannot be that tall and therefore planks cannot be that long.
I made the first curved wale plank from bow to stern in three, four pieces, glued next to each other in one fluent line (to my carpenter's eye at least...).
If you look at pictures of others in this group build, you can see where to make the (vertical, upright, parallel with the frames) cuts in the planks.

These cut positions repeat every fourth plank.
Make sure you bend and place your first row of separate wale planks along or on the bulkhead marks exactly and with a gently curve, no sinkers or ugly nods, but fluently in a gentle and elegant curve. The sea, waves and ships are all about curves with a certain 'tension' in these curves.
An ugly nod in a curve takes away theat gentle tension.
Rip the first curve of planks off and start again if you're not 100% content with what you see looking from bow to stern and vice versa with one eye closed...
Also, make sure you do it exactly the same port- and starboardside, as far as possible and to your abilities ofcourse.
f you place the underside of the first planking in the middle of you pencil line, do that the same on the other side.
This is the basis for every curve that will follow, so....