HMS Pegasus 1776 by Mirabell61 - FINISHED - scale 1:64 - 16-gun sloop

[Kevin]

love yr build, but the pictures that struck me the most, was the work involved in the stern galleries/windows , lovely work

[Kevin]

http://www.seawatchbooks.com/

[Mirabell61]

Kevin

thanks for commenting the work on the badges, and also for that link to seawatch books, have filed and saved down this

. Trust that the next coming buildlog sections shall provide more Details on the Stern section

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Lot 13 of my Pegasus buildlog...

 

 

when doing the window outcuts the inner Frame at this Position had to be partially removed, I left the lower remains Standing and used this for Fitting a  "3 side around the Stern" window shelf into the masters cabin

 

the upper of the two waleplanks is fitted at stb.

 

the lower waleplank on port side is permanently fixeed into place (edges pre blackend to ease later black silk varnishing of the waleplanks

 

upper port aft view

 

 

lucky for me the upper two pine stripes followed easy around the bow without breaking and just by prewetting with the toung. Use semi thicsotrope super acettate glue for this. I would not be able to provide Fingerprints after the Acetate session !

 

 

the tight fit grating has been removed here to give view to the aft donward staircase from gundeck to intermediate deck.

 

stb side Barrel slide supports and outer Boarding steps

 

likewise on portside. Here additional bits of planking were required, but I think they do`nt hinder the view into the hull

 

in the Moment I am questioning my brain how and where it would be best to fasten the deadeye tackle on in not desturbing the Riggung optics and view to the inside later on

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[Mirabell61]

Lot 14 of my Pegasus buildlog...

 

 

portside ready for applying silk black

 

ready done in the appropriate Areas

 

here the stand Comes into the game..., use pine Wood board combined with 1/4 hollow profiled Woods and rectangular stipes for below. All is varnished in 2-cover Cherrywood stain, this covered with silktouch clear varnish. The pedestals are made from very priceworthy old brass candleholders from the local fleamarkets around Hamburg area

 

only preliminary test on testing distances and lengths of Stand pedastel bolts

 

positional check for soldered "3D etch layers" onto fries Support

 

further positioning check, note the heights, the Amati plan template I find was too low in height

 

Ships Name and window panes permanently assembled

 

poop bulwarks increased in height and Support brackets mounted to the rear plate. One of the next days I shall Need to tackle Fitting out the Stern interior and the appropriate bulkhead Panels

 

things are moving on now. I think I will leave the brass character to the decorations and therefore pre-conserved the shiny brass surfaces with a coating of high gloss varnish

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[4whelr]

Nils,

Really nice work. The stern looks fabulous! Your build is a pleasure to follow!!

Eddie

[Mirabell61]

Thanks for your words Eddie, I`m glad you like it

 

There will be some more Input from my behalf tomorrow during the day.....

 

By the way... I know now where I have seen Information of the "Elsie" you are building, it was many years ago in a book I have of Carlo Sciarelli, (unfortunetely not published any more) titeled "DIE YACHT" , published by Delius Klasing & Co. in Germany. I picked the Bluenose instead at that time because it came out from Billing Boats, sad to say it is still 3/4 completed but on the shelf. My wife is allway pushing me to complete it, before I start any other new Project.

Would love to see and follow your Project well proceeding as it moves towards the finishing line

 

Nils

 

 

[Mirabell61]

Lot 15 of my Pegasus buildlog

 

 

rear Windows completed window Panels mounted, but badges remain removeable untill a later building sequence

 

the raw opening for the rudder shaft and a small centerbore allinged through all decks above has allready been done

 

sorry the pic could have been taken sharper

 

starting on bow decoration and woodwork there

 

These 3 beams should be strong enough...

 

have to protect somehow the aft cabin Windows from inside against sanding dust

 

view under rthe forecastle deck

 

 

a Little further on

 

Looks riged enough for adding the fine-work on to

 

the preliminary 8mm bow dowel fits in perfectly

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[Mirabell61]

Lot 16 of my Pegasus buildlog

 

 

 

there are still so many to do, I could carry on everywhere, but have to organise the futher build carefully....

 

I prolonged the black wale-stripe into the bow area, took off the Little brass bird figure before and Need to replace it again

 

here is the Little duckie again...

 

self explaining

 

prefit of the namegiving figurehead, Chris Watton prefers resin as material, for shrinkage reasons, but still i`m mind pregnant with a brass Investment casting or so ( the sponge is still not soaked...)

 

how to do by simplest means

 

 

 

self explaining

 

doing a litte bit further here

 

I really am not pleased with the forecastle Access Little "pigion-ladders" squeased in between guns and forecastle aft bulhead as planed in the drawings, in lack of space, so here is my solution (B.E. Blue Ensign might be having a smile on his face allready)

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[Blue Ensign]

She's coming together very nicely Nils, a neat little jig you have made for cap squares.

 

I think the Eking / lower Rails and Main Rails could do with a little more fining and tapering as they run to meet the the Hairbracket at the head, but the main thing is to get  those tricky little rails in place, they then can be fine tuned.

 

One of the reasons I fitted gangplanks on my Pegasus was because I couldn't accept the  strange fit of the Foc'sle ladders, but does your new ladderway foul the first gun position?

 

As you are leaving half the deck open do you intend to fit a galley stove, they are quite straightforward to make out of any old bits of timber/plastic and do add interest to a build. There are designs here on MSW and plenty of examples to follow.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Thanks B.E.

These are the comments I love between fellow members, I feel strong Supporting and know someone is actually reflecting my thoughts about Details. A Little handicap I momentarily have with all the naval ship related Features in english language. Pls excuse if I should not always find the correct nominations i.e in my buillog. I have meantime found an old sailors dictionary from Ebay with which I am happy at the Moment, but would Need to look up several nominations in your forestanding reply, allthough I think to see straight away what you meant. Please do`nt hesitate to use These and alike, it is very welcome, no Problem for me and in increasing my knowledge.

now some answers....

 

Rails finetunig, exactly, here it was also my intention to get the woodwork in place at this time to find a sturdy base for finetuning in a seperate session in some time afterwards.

 

Gangplanks versa ladders....

also exactly my thoughts when I saw your gangplank Fitting in the pics and which I liked and found nowhere else related to Swanclass. I thought I missed an important Feature when gathering Input. It is intended by myself to use the same Dimension stairs, rather than ladders same as other places between the decks. The Position of the first guns the required adequate angles of the stairs and the scaled size to suit the toughest sailor did spacewise not allow this on the gundeck and the naval inspector would not have approved this anyhow.

Ammendment to this: definately no, the new stairs intended fit nicely with sufficient space to the first under deck gun Tackling and the Tackling of the second gun. Shall provide Pictures when this Feature is ready

 

Fitting stove.....

yes this is in "the sponge" allready to a certain degree, having seen your stove some time ago I looked up what I could gather from the web, and found it a pitty that the foc`sle bulkhead should hide such eyecandy. So leaving this bulkhead away there was no reason especially with the slightly increased (filigrane framecutting I provide)deckhights, to not providing an open durable staircase for safe and quick Access. My thoughts on the stove have allready been gently cooking along for some time. When the time Comes, I would gladly refer to your splendid and very good looking self explaining Pictures of the stove.

 

Would love to Exchange more...., and looking Forward to futher comments

 

happy modeling

Nils

Edited July 23, 2013 by Mirabell61

[Blue Ensign]

Hello Nils, re the English terms used in shipbuilding - here's a little schematic I did on the plans to help me sort out what was what.

 

 

 Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

[4whelr]

Nils - Your build is coming along so nicely. I hope one day I can develope the skills to do as well as you are doing. As to your English, keep in mind I probably know only about 10 words in German, so to me your English if very good!

 

Thank you so much for the picture of the Elsie. I now have it saved on my computer.

 

I am enjoying following you build and seeing your excellent work!

 

Eddie

[Mirabell61]

Hello Nils, re the English terms used in shipbuilding - here's a little schematic I did on the plans to help me sort out what was what.

 

 

 Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

Many thanks B.E. this is an highly appreciated extra Bonus Information and shall certainly be of great help

 

Nils

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Nils,

 

I saw your post on my build log so I thought I'd check out your "Peggy Sue".

 

the keellaying was in April this year, we now are nearly 4 months later I asume that would adequate for the build Status

 

 

Yoicks - FOUR MONTHS ???? You are already a mile ahead of my Vulture, and I've been working on her for a bit over TWO YEARS. Yes, I think you can safely say that the time it has taken you is "adequate" .

 

A very interesting approach you have taken here - not entirely "historically accurate" as you admit yourself, but very nicely done anyway. At your current rate of work you should have her fully rigged before Christmas .

 

For your planned galley stove, take a look at the way I made mine - click HERE - I used mostly wood for the main body, painted to resemble cast iron.

 

  Danny

[Mirabell61]

Danny

 

wonderfull fellow builder advice..., I looked up your link

 

Many thanks for the galley stove link in your own buildlog, it`s really great. I know you are building in 1:48, and if possible would like to adopt what is feasible into 1:64 from yours and from B.E.`s 1:64 splendid stove Version

 

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Many thanks B.E. this is an highly appreciated extra Bonus Information and shall certainly be of great help

 

Nils

 

Good day B.E.

here just a quick Illustration how I meant it with the space, the stairs and clearance to 1st and 2nd gun. The gangwayplanks you provided are still going roun in my head, because I really like them. What do you think about my stair Version in combination with your G-Plank Version ? The swivel gun attendants would not interfere with the heavy gunner Crew one deck lower in battle....

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[Mirabell61]

Here comes part 17 of my buildlog,

 

 

 

after this I shall have to sort out the further logisticwise Approach in my actual build sequence, it may be the rudder System, Fitting out the rear cabins on the gundeck, or Gunport covers, or, or....

 

 

 

for decks I use cardboard templates for tranfering the shapes onto the 0,8mm ply, they allow easy necessary adjustments during prefitting

 

this is the stand in view from below with the pedestal bolts coming through

 

dealing with the first Trials on the swivel guns, using RB Model 15mm gunbarrels. I shall scrap this first Trial for the mounting device again.

B.E. Shows us an excellent solution for the mounting brackets. I hope that Amati may take this up and provide an etchpart solution ammendment to the brass Sheets, because of the limited amout of brass hooks

 

unfortunately my camera provides no macro Feature.... for the Close ups

 

just an alternative solution, B.E. also here has a great alternative to Show, well done !

 

 

This Little jig supports during driiling pivotpin hole and handle hole into the unbored RB models 15mm length gunbarrels

 

two more Pictures of the stand, this is an easy priceworthy way of getting a not too fancy stand

 

 

 

 

At this buildstage ( I asked Forum members before in my buildlog) any Input on the question : coppering the hull or not ? would be appreciated. Pros and cons would be very welcome. I did a lot of "steelplating" on model hulls before, but that was representing iron/steel plated hulls in riveted Detail (like Titanic, etc.) on early steamships.

 

this is what I meant, it`s showing the 1400 mm Long raw hull of the german/ australian line Steamer Elbing launched in year 1898

 

The 18th century coppering plates are more or less nailed (model : glued) on to the planking, but also hiding the wooden planking structure

 

Nils

Edited March 26, 2014 by Mirabell61

[Dan Vadas]

Hi Nils,

 

after this I shall have to sort out the further logisticwise Approach in my actual build sequence, it may be the rudder System, Fitting out the rear cabins on the gundeck, or Gunport covers, or, or....

 

 

I advise that you do the rudder before anything else. You really should have done it long ago, as the hull will need to be turned upside-down to drill several of the bolt holes more easily - it can be done the right way up, but it's a lot more difficult.

 

  Danny

[Mirabell61]

Hi Danny ,

you are right with your Suggestion Danny on priority for the rudder, thanks for this reminder. The reason that it was not started before is because I to date did not make up my mind if coppering Sub waterline hull, or leaving it Wood stucture, visable (Planks, grain etc) perhaps with eggshell White heritage "anti fouling" optic. I was intending to feasten the rudder hinges after doing so.

Allthough I was seeking Input opinions on that choise twice allread in my buildlog from fellow builders, i think I Need to flip the coin soon myself.

 

Nils

[Mirabell61]

Danny

I forgot to feed back earlier on the "building Speed" ( your reply recently), this is seen a Little bit spiced with Humor as you recognised, even though the 4 months are real for the 1:64 deal. But I am absolutely Aware of what it takes for all 1:48 swanie builders to get the "thousands" of parts, jigs and gauges logistic wise made marked sorted and assembled, and this in a way as if it were a real ship, I also mentioned this to Toni before when sighting her buildlog, this applies as well to all the other admirable builds shown in this Forum and which I so much love to see.

 

keep smiling

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Good day B.E.

here just a quick Illustration how I meant it with the space, the stairs and clearance to 1st and 2nd gun. The gangwayplanks you provided are still going roun in my head, because I really like them. What do you think about my stair Version in combination with your G-Plank Version ? The swivel gun attendants would not interfere with the heavy gunner Crew one deck lower in battle....

 

Nils

 

 

 

 

Hi Nils, I suppose if you go with gangplanks the ladderway is not needed. Having a ladderway in that position does solve the practical problem of gun fouling, but doesn't the deck beam foul access to the Fo'csle? - or are you intending to modify the beam by the addition of ledges and carlings to form the hatchway?

 

The swivel gun modifications are looking good, those hooks I modified for the mountings are available as a separate purchase so you don't need to use up the kit supplied ones.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Hi B.E.

"exact, the forelast fo`csle deckbeam is allready marked for cutout in that deck space. If with "ledges and carlings" you mean the framings of the stairway on deck, yes, shall provide mahogony framing and probably brass threeside railing there same as the others shown in my buildlog.

Thanks for the advice for the Surplus etched hooks availabilty.

Shall priority wise have to make up my mind at this time about the ruddersystem (ref. to my`s and danny`s recent Input). What is your opinion B.E. about coppering or not. If coppering, it must be perfectly applied for optical reasons. if one should leave some plates on, that may fail ones own criterea and they are not replaced, they look at you pityfull ever afterwards from the stand (smile)

 

Nils

[Blue Ensign]

Its down to personal preference I think Nils, the Amati plates are quite easy to apply using thick ca and again the set can be purchased separately. Any misplacements are easily removed sometimes with the assistance of a little acetone.

 

Pegasus was coppered from the outset, but with neat hull planking and given your particular approach  to your build there is no reason why you couldn't  leave one side uncoppered, perhaps even applying plates to the 'open' side only to show the effect or vice versa.

 

Whatever, you decide I'm sure you will achieve a good result.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Mirabell61]

Hi B.E.

good Suggestion to consider perhaps coppering the "open" side, port side of the rudder, etc, and having the stb side in "anti fouling" broken White a littkle thicker than stain application to still enable Plank and grain structure to come throug a bit. That is i.e. what I liked from many of the "HMS Fly" Pictures.

 

Nils

[popeye the sailor]

just read through your log........what a wonderful build.......very neat concept!   you have a very good comand of the jig / scroll saw......I have done some.....but not to that degree of acuracy...very well done!  I will follow your log with great interest.

[the learner]

Unusual build method! looks great, I like how you are leaving one side open for viewing adds a lot to the quality of the model

 

Go Peggy Sue

[flyer]

Hi Nils

 

You definitely do not believe in taking the easy way! Wonderful!

 

I hope you don’t mind a remark about the treatment of the hull: I wouldn’t mix two different protection methods on the same build and only show the coppering of the prototype on one side. Otherwise you could overload your model. There is the saying “less is more” to consider.

 

Oh and about dictionaries… I find www.leo.org helpful for most words and it contains some basic naval vocabulary as well.

 

Keep up the fantastic work.

Peter

[Mirabell61]

Peter, yes I think you are right, "less is more" have been in doubt about that myself.

 

In the meantime I am doing Trial experimenting along with coppering , I have come to the conclusion that it`ll be only on the Sub-waterline area of the fully planked starboard side. For other ships I use self adhesive Aluminium foil for resembling the riveted steelplates, here now we are dealing with nails through copper sheet tiles, thats the difference and I Need to do some more Trials.......because I would`nt want to spoil the hull.

This sample i did this morning, following B.E.`s advice for tiles in 6 x 18 mm. I Chose 8mm wide foil strips I cut from a roll that is 100mm wide. self adhesive Aluminium 0,125 mm thick. The contact gluefilm sticks like hell. That would require copper paint afterwards.

The strips are overlapping 1,5 to 2mm. That leaves 6mm optic wideness The vertical lines are enbossed in by means of a blunt backside  of my pocket knife appr. every 20mm

The embossed nail Features are flattend out afterwards, by rolling over with an empty jam glass, and so I can do 5 tiles at a time (every Strip is 100 mm Long), this enables a very good alignment in horizontal direction basicly following the plank direction

There is available on the market also 8 mm wide self adhesive copper tape 0,3 mm thick which is used by tiffany glass builders. (ordered a Trial roll of 20 Yards allready) The next Trial shall be in enbossing that copper tape when I have it in Hands same as with the Aluminium.

 

If all would`nt work out as it should..... I can still increase Amati`s turnover...

 

Whats your opinion about that Peter, ? would love comments or improvement suggestions.

If it`s only for the bin... nevermind

 

Nils

 

attachment=76312:CIMG9769.JPG]

 

[Mirabell61]

Coppering Trials, continued.....

 

my first Trials have been for the bin, but I would`t like to give up so easily.

Yesterday Dirk posted a very helpfull link out of that "mini sail Switzerland" assotiation relating to coppering. Together with B.E.`s Prior Input I started a new Trial with real adhesive copper tape. It would in scale size 1:64 be necessary to place 88 to 125 nails per plate of size 6 x 19 mm.

 

After some Trials I managed to place 88 nails, flattening the surface afterwards, and having the overlapping plates borderline-nails placed at half distances compared with the the main field. Unfortunetely the staggering of the nail lines in the centerfield is beyond my possibilities in this scale. The reproduceabilty is given due to the embossing Tools I made.

 

Nils

 

self adhesive 0,00125" thick copper tape 5/16 " wide (8mm) leaving appr. 6 x 19mm uncovered, after overlapping