HMS Sphinx 1775 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

[glbarlow]

17 hours ago, Blue Ensign said:

little mini kit of the double Capstan

I have it and the stove, but mine are going in Winnie, if I can get that far once I start it. That will keep me occupied for a couple of years. 

[BobG]

4 hours ago, TBlack said:

Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging. You can get a copy for $188.

Yikes! 😳

 

4 hours ago, Gregory said:

If you don't have to hold a book in your hand, here is a free E-book

Thanks...much cheaper!!

[Blue Ensign]

Thinking About colour

 

There are four main colours other than black to be used on the model.

Red, Blue, White, Yellow, and shades thereof.

 

On every build I have done the actual shade has exorcised my mind, particularly for the colour blue.

 

I am interested to see how various tones look against the mainly Pearwood finish.

3538(2)

This is my rough colour comparison chart painted on a Pearwood background. All I am interested in here is how the colour relates to what will be the bright finish between Wale and Waist rail.

 

The colour selection features paints from Vallejo, Admiralty (Jotika/Caldercraft) and Humbrol. The majority are water based but the Admiralty Red Ochre and Humbrol RAF Blue are oil versions as I didn’t have the acrylic versions to hand.

 

I favour the more muted tones as seen on contemporary models, and I hope with this build I can settle on a colour that does not require mixing as that relieves me of working out a formula for re-mixes.

 

 

My initial thoughts are:-

Vallejo Flat Red   - inboard works and some deck fittings.

 

Vallejo Grey/blue - Ground to the Topsides and stern decorations. (Humbrol RAF Blue (96) runs a close second.)

 

Admiralty Yellow Ochre – Frieze decorations, but with other shades of yellow and white for toning and highlights.

 

I don’t intend to use gold on any area of the model.

 

There is a very good section on painting decorative friezes in Volume 11 of the ffm, the techniques of which can be applied to the brass etched versions supplied with the kit to good effect.

 

I am undecided about the lower hull as yet, if it’s good enough I may not paint it at all, but if I do I may need to tone a bright white down a little.

 

This is the last of my musings before that large box hopefully arrives next week and the build begins in earnest.

 

 

B.E.

21/08/21

 

[James H]

Be careful of Vallejo Red. 

 

I have two bottles here of the same catalogue number, and they are very different. The older one paints dead easy and is quite vibrant. The newer one looks 'dirtier' and doesn't paint anywhere near as easily with a brush. 

[Jasseji]

8 minutes ago, James H said:

Be careful of Vallejo Red. 

 

I have two bottles here of the same catalogue number, and they are very different. The older one paints dead easy and is quite vibrant. The newer one looks 'dirtier' and doesn't paint anywhere near as easily with a brush. 

I second the Vallejo Red oppinion.

 

although BE Lists "Flat Red", not "Red" (in some lists as Tomato Red, number 031 vs Red number 033), i made the mistake of usind the "normal" red and it is dirty

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks James for the heads up, I'll keep a watch out for that. 👍

 

I had a similar issue with Admiralty Red Ochre some years ago,  one bottle came out with a distinctly  unappealing pink effect.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

5 minutes ago, Jasseji said:

I second the Vallejo Red oppinion.

 

although BE Lists "Flat Red", not "Red" (in some lists as Tomato Red, number 031 vs Red number 033), i made the mistake of usind the "normal" red and it is dirty

I didn't realise that James may have been referring to a different 'Red'

 

I picked up the use of 'flat red' from members who had used it on their builds. I think I first used it back in 2017 on my Model shipways Pinnace build, and have used it on all builds since, latterly on the Royal Barge kit.

 

It always pays to test any paint on a strip of the wood to be used, before applying paint to the model.

 

B.E.

 

[James H]

Sorry, no...I DO mean their Flat Red.

 

The two bottles I have aren't even close to the same colour, and the later one is really oily and bad to paint. Maybe they changed the formula or this is a bad production run.

 

[Blue Ensign]

Relief short lived then,🙄

 

My two bottles  bought some time ago have the control numbers K-03-06 on the label.

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

I do these color boards too. I was amazed that the Cerulean Blue I bought from three different manufacturers, Golden, Grumbacher, and Winsor & Newton are completely different.  I was thinking ‘Cerulean’ means ‘whatever’ Blue. 

 

I also prefer Admiralty Yellow Ochre over Gold for decorations, just seems right.

Edited August 22, 2021 by glbarlow

[bartley]

Glenn,

 

As a sometime painter this variation in a colour of the same name from different manufacturer is very common. Names are just a guide.  there is no standardization.  These days some manufacturers specify the Pantone reference or the CMYK values (which of course you can reproduce in Photoshop)  and you will find they are very different. Many colours are still made from naturally occurring minerals.  Red and yellow ochre for example.  You don't have to travel very extensively to know that the ochre cliffs in different geographic regions vary enormously in colour.  So the source a manufacturer chooses for his pigment will affect the resulting colour. So you will find "yellow ochre" varies enormously from one manufacturer to the next.

 

John

Edited August 22, 2021 by bartley

[Tankerman]

B.E. this book would add more interest in your search for the colour "blue":

 http://modellbau-muellerschoen.de/Shop-en.htm?fbclid=IwAR1Z1MSLyl5JG6KSoLfZbK_vKumG63wh8itcYxOTGQZ_YBbbTgHVB6Z6zyw

but at a price!

 

Chris

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for the heads up Chris, I am a compulsive book buyer; that one  looks interesting but will have to wait awhile.

 

I think I'm pretty settled on the shade I want for this particular model, but in practice it's all artistic license, the official colour for topsides on British ships was any colour as long as it's black. 

The Admiralty order dates back to 12th July 1715, and is cited by L.G.Carr-Laughton in his book Old ship Figure-heads and sterns.

 

This would apply more certainly in relation to a modest ship like Sphinx, but my model will display her with a fetching shade of  blue as ground to the friezes , which in practice she probably didn't have either.

 

B.E.

 

[Tankerman]

I agree, my reading and research on the subject means I have reached the same conclusion as you.

 

Chris

[Mslatta]

On 8/21/2021 at 12:37 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Thinking About colour

 

There are four main colours other than black to be used on the model.

Red, Blue, White, Yellow, and shades thereof.

 

On every build I have done the actual shade has exorcised my mind, particularly for the colour blue.

 

I am interested to see how various tones look against the mainly Pearwood finish.

3538(2)

This is my rough colour comparison chart painted on a Pearwood background. All I am interested in here is how the colour relates to what will be the bright finish between Wale and Waist rail.

 

The colour selection features paints from Vallejo, Admiralty (Jotika/Caldercraft) and Humbrol. The majority are water based but the Admiralty Red Ochre and Humbrol RAF Blue are oil versions as I didn’t have the acrylic versions to hand.

 

I favour the more muted tones as seen on contemporary models, and I hope with this build I can settle on a colour that does not require mixing as that relieves me of working out a formula for re-mixes.

 

 

My initial thoughts are:-

Vallejo Flat Red   - inboard works and some deck fittings.

 

Vallejo Grey/blue - Ground to the Topsides and stern decorations. (Humbrol RAF Blue (96) runs a close second.)

 

Admiralty Yellow Ochre – Frieze decorations, but with other shades of yellow and white for toning and highlights.

 

I don’t intend to use gold on any area of the model.

 

There is a very good section on painting decorative friezes in Volume 11 of the ffm, the techniques of which can be applied to the brass etched versions supplied with the kit to good effect.

 

I am undecided about the lower hull as yet, if it’s good enough I may not paint it at all, but if I do I may need to tone a bright white down a little.

 

This is the last of my musings before that large box hopefully arrives next week and the build begins in earnest.

 

 

B.E.

21/08/21

 

What is the ffm?

[Blue Ensign]

The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops, 1767-1780, by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, published by Seawatch Books in four volumes.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

10.25hrs this morning and the much anticipated box arrived.

Well protected.

A feast for the eyes.

 

Looks like there will be no furlough for you Wills, long days in the shipyard  ahead.

 

You can relax for a while tho' the stuff needs to be sorted into separate boxes for ease of working.

 

B.E.

24/08/21

[James H]

36 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Now it seems like my log is being spammed with irrelevant comments.

 

If you wish to announce the arrival of your kits, your own logs are the ideal place to do it.

 

Thank you,

 

B.E.

 

Everyone who has just announced the happy arrival of their newborn Sphinx, please open a build log. We want to see them all of course, but it will save B.E.'s log from being overwhelmed with your news. 

[Blue Ensign]

Building the Sphinx - Post One

This is where the build starts in earnest, I always start a build with a keel support, partly to hold the hull in the early stages and partly to keep the false keel straight.

It also provides a level surface to check square.

3625

3624

3623

This will be modified several times during the course of the build.

 

I don’t intend to do a step-by-step assembly log, there is the excellent manual for that.

I do have to mention what a wonderful job Chris and James have done in producing the manual, probably the best I’ve ever seen.

 

My initial view of what I have seen in the box is very positive, I have not concerned myself with checking every part against the parts list as I know Chris will respond to any issues that may crop up.

 

I will restrict this log to commenting on areas where I have had difficulty or found problems (hopefully very few), areas where I have made modifications, and the approach I have taken in tackling different stages of the build where it diverts from the indicated path.

 

Time to introduce bulkheads to false keel.

 

B.E.

 

24/08/21

 

Edited August 24, 2021 by Blue Ensign

[Blue Ensign]

Post Two

 

Bulkheads

 

Fitting the bulkheads is a painless exercise, the one that gave me some concern is the lower stern pattern. (13-1)

3626

Fairing off the model is indicated but in this area it is all about degrees and I worry about how much to do off the model.

This is where the lower planking will sweep up to the transom and it needs to be a smooth convex curve without any hint of an angle.

032

This photo of my Pegasus build shows the run of planking and ultimately the fairing can only be done on the model using test planks.

 

For this reason, I will be very careful how much off model sanding I do in this area, and I don’t think I can trust myself with the Dremel.

I found that part 13 needed a little light sanding in the slot and several dry fits before it would slide smoothly down the keel to be glued to 13-1.

3679

These things are fragile and cannot be forced into position without the risk of damage.

3677(2)

The bow patterns are easier to fit, and will be easier to fair.

3678

With all the bulkheads in place I get my first real impression of the hull size and shape.

She is chunkier than Pegasus and is pleasing to my eye.

 

The Bow and Stern bulkheads will now be removed for preliminary fairing, at this point the remainder of the bulkheads  are only dry fitted but will probably not require removal again.

 

B.E.

25/08/21

 

 

 

[JeffT]

Can you make a template from the plans? I think that would be helpful in getting the shape correct.

[James H]

Fairing those parts 'off model' is only about removing a rough quantity of material so that it's easier when you have everything together. 

 

The quantities you see me removing in the manual were further faired in when the full was ready for overall fairing. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Jeff, I haven't got that far yet, but I do intend to check the plans for a suitable profile.👍

 

B.E.

[glbarlow]

I was reluctant to do this off ship fairing on Flirt so I went light. It does help to get things moving more quickly once back on the ship I found by having the basic introductory shape done off ship. 

[Blue Ensign]

11 minutes ago, James H said:

Fairing those parts 'off model' is only about removing a rough quantity of material so that it's easier when you have everything together. 

 

The quantities you see me removing in the manual were further faired in when the full was ready for overall fairing. 

Thanks James, it looked quite a lot in the photos, I was concerned about taking too much off and getting out of shape. On the model you can constantly check progress with a planking strip.

 

B.E.

[Blue Ensign]

Post Three

 

Platforms

Unusual in this type of kit, Chris has provided a short section of what would be the forward Platform below the lower deck.

In reality there would also be an aft platform which is not supplied.

 

These Platforms sat above the hold and are version of the Orlop deck on larger vessels.

I doubt very little will be seen of this with the hull planked and decked.

 

I considered the possibility of fabricating false frames and leaving an opening in the hull at this level, but what would be the ladderway above it is blocked by a bulkhead, and it is only clear above the Fore Hatchway. As a ladderway leading up to the Lower deck would be the only feature of interest I decided to pass.

 

Lower deck

This deck is another nice touch for what otherwise would be a re-inforcing piece to square up the bulkheads and provide  some rigidity to the hull.

 

This is also supplied in engraved plywood with the Hatchways and Ladderways detailed. The Fore Ladderway leads down to the Platform deck, or it would if the bulkhead wasn’t in the way.

 

My deck had some Laser burn on the engraved side which needed sanding to remove. This didn’t have any effect on the planking lines.

3681(2)text

With the Lower deck slotted into place, gently does it on this exercise, it can be seen that altho’ the hatches will be covered by gratings, the Ladderways simply open onto bulkhead tops.

3680(2)

The Upper deck base is placed roughly in position to gauge what will be visible of the lower decks.

The Upper deck Fore Hatch is covered by a grating, but without it there is a view directly down to the Platform deck, altho’ the deficiency in the ladderway will be visible.

3684

To rectify this would require removing a section from bulkhead 4 and a section of false keel between bulkheads 9 and 10 for the lower deck aft ladderway.

None of this of course is necessary but as my version will be open decks only, it is another option to think about, and I am sorely tempted.

 

B.E.

26/08/21

 

[Jasseji]

26 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Post Three

 

Platforms

Unusual in this type of kit, Chris has provided a short section of what would be the forward Platform below the lower deck.

In reality there would also be an aft platform which is not supplied.

 

These Platforms sat above the hold and are version of the Orlop deck on larger vessels.

I doubt very little will be seen of this with the hull planked and decked.

 

I considered the possibility of fabricating false frames and leaving an opening in the hull at this level, but what would be the ladderway above it is blocked by a bulkhead, and it is only clear above the Fore Hatchway. As a ladderway leading up to the Lower deck would be the only feature of interest I decided to pass.

 

Lower deck

This deck is another nice touch for what otherwise would be a re-inforcing piece to square up the bulkheads and provide  some rigidity to the hull.

 

This is also supplied in engraved plywood with the Hatchways and Ladderways detailed. The Fore Ladderway leads down to the Platform deck, or it would if the bulkhead wasn’t in the way.

 

My deck had some Laser burn on the engraved side which needed sanding to remove. This didn’t have any effect on the planking lines.

3681(2)text

With the Lower deck slotted into place, gently does it on this exercise, it can be seen that altho’ the hatches will be covered by gratings, the Ladderways simply open onto bulkhead tops.

3680(2)

The Upper deck base is placed roughly in position to gauge what will be visible of the lower decks.

The Upper deck Fore Hatch is covered by a grating, but without it there is a view directly down to the Platform deck, altho’ the deficiency in the ladderway will be visible.

3684

To rectify this would require removing a section from bulkhead 4 and a section of false keel between bulkheads 9 and 10 for the lower deck aft ladderway.

None of this of course is necessary but as my version will be open decks only, it is another option to think about, and I am sorely tempted.

 

B.E.

26/08/21

 

Hm, this is interesting, would it be possible to exchange the Hatch and ladder, or would this be very bad regarding the authenticity of the model ?

 

Like this:

 

Edit:

 

I take it back, it cant, because there is a ladder on the deck above in that place.

Hmm, interesting find

Edited August 26, 2021 by Jasseji

[chris watton]

Fore and aft orlop platforms were included in original designs, but decided against. Due to bulkhead positionings, I removed, but kept fore platform but no ladderway. Original designs I did still show them..

[Blue Ensign]

22 minutes ago, chris watton said:

Fore and aft orlop platforms were included in original designs, but decided against. Due to bulkhead positionings, I removed, but kept fore platform but no ladderway. Original designs I did still show them..

Well  Chris, at least you have provided a run through  upper deck which has saved me the trouble of the serious mod  necessary on Pegasus, and for that I'm ever grateful.👍

 

B.E

[Blue Ensign]

Post Four

Creating a Ladderway

 

This post involves modifying things to create a Fore hatch ladderway on the Lower deck down to the Fore Platform.

This is not for the faint hearted as it involves cutting Bulkhead 4 in half and trimming the false keel.

3716

The bulkhead is halved, and the centre section is removed.

3718

The short keel piece sticking up in the centre will also be removed.

3719

A test check of the Ladderway with the lower deck in place.

3723

Bulkhead 5 is glued into place along with the Fore Platform.

3722

The lower deck is temporarily refitted to hold the bulkhead in place until the glue sets.

3753

Bulkhead 4 halves are glued into place against the False keel and forward connections of the Platform.

3747

Bracing blocks are glued to the lower part of the bulkhead and the keel.

3725

The Lower deck was again put back to square the bulkheads.

3755

The completed area opened up.

3735

3752

A ladder can now be installed once the hatchway coamings are fitted.

 

Onto the stern Ladderway and Aft Platform, which is a less  dramatic modification.

 

B.E.

26/08/21