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Harriet Lane by bobandlucy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96


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On 8/11/2022 at 8:26 AM, Ian_Grant said:

Looking great!

I concur. Nice-looking model.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Bob,  re your mainyard, I see the sling, lifts, and braces; but should there also be a truss, or truss pendants (depending on the time period here)?

Thanks Ian. Truss/truss pendants not mentioned in the instructions, some of the rigging is indicated to be simplified- not sure what trusses are. . . 

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As well as the sling to hold the yard up, something is needed to hold it against the mast when the wind is pushing on the sail.

 

I'm guessing you have your yard pinned to the mast with a piece of bras rod or the like or it would be very difficult to get it to stay in place.

 

In the 18th century this function was performed by rope "truss pendants". In later years, certainly by the time of steam wheelers, they were changed to chains. By the time of the clipper ships they had iron "trusses" which supported the yards and allowed them to pivot.

 

Rope truss pendants.......

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Clipper ship trusses...notice the curved iron fitting behind the yard, attaching it to the mast.

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2 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

Rope truss pendants.......

The illustration showing the truss pendants (from Ian_Grant) is from a very handy book on rigging by Lennarth Peterrson : Rigging Period Ship Models. It covers an earlier era than that of your model but remains a good reference for much of the sail rigging that extended into the early 19th-century. Highly recommended. I use it as a key reference for my 18th-C models. Available and in print, not too expensive. As you can see, he's a detailed draftsman and has done a good job illustrating - with very clear diagrams - the essential square sail rigging details throughout his book.

 

Ron

Director, Nautical Research Guild

Secretary/Newsletter Editor, Philadelphia Ship Model Society

Former Member/Secretary for the Connecticut Marine Model Society

 

Current Build: Grace & Peace (Wyoming, 6-masted Schooner)

Completed Builds: HMS GrecianHMS Sphinx (as HMS CamillaOngakuka Maru, (Higaki Kaisen, It Takes A Village), Le Tigre Privateer, HMS Swan, HMS GodspeedHMS Ardent, HMS Diana, Russian brig Mercury, Elizabethan Warship Revenge, Xebec Syf'Allah, USF Confederacy, HMS Granado, USS Brig Syren

 

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I just had a thought, Tom, that I need to add further info to clarify.........

 

The above info only applies to lower yards like your main yard, which did not have to move up and down the mast as the sail was trimmed.

 

Upper yards which slid up and down the mast were attached by parrals, sort of wooden beads on strings that wrapped around the mast, holding the yard against it while allowing it to roll up and down. Here is a detail:

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And here is an example on my HMS Victory model:

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Something of the sort will apply to your upper yards.

 

Keep up the nice work!

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Ian, yes, the main yard is held in place with a piece of wire as per the instructions. Thanks for posting the examples.

 

Tom (Ron?), thanks for the book information, it looks very well done. I will get a copy. I have been lent a first edition (1923) copy of the "Ship Model Builders Assistant," by Davis, which also has good drawings, but rather small. Seems a good reference book, but I have not really incorporated the methods given into this model thus far. I'll be looking for a copy of that as well.

 

Your own work is stunning. . . 

 

I have begun hanging the upper yard, it too is attached with wire, but does include a simplified parral.

 

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I have struggled to do a neat job on this rigging even though it is simplified (this kit is part of an instructional series), so I may stick to doing things as presented  for the remainder of this project. But you guys, and David, have lit a new fire in me- I see the opportunities for improvement, and research is enjoyable to me (this is a lot more interesting than building codes and product research, and I enjoyed that aspect of my working life). I may do another kit before venturing into scratch building, if I do then I will certainly look to learn and incorporate more authentic methods into the work. If I scratch-build the next one, why then I'll be in the thick of it!

 

Thank you all for your interest. I look forward to moving to the next level.

 

Sincerely, Bob

 

 

 

Edited by bobandlucy
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Even with scratch built models, I pin the yards to keep them in place while parrals, trusses or whatever appropriate gear is added. If the wire is blackened, it is not obvious.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Bob

 

Great work, I am impressed with how this is turning out and have it on my list of builds to do.  I have thought about a scratch build, but I think I need so more kit bashing before I take on that.

 

Gary

Life is to short to be serious all the time. So, if you can't laugh at yourself, your not doing it right.

 

Current Builds

18th Century Armed Longboat 

 

Finished Builds

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack

Lowell Grand Banks Dory

Norwegian Sailing Pram

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All three yards installed and trimmed. As some of you watching may have noticed, I secured the lines as each yard was added, going against the instructions, mentioned in several places. I did not do this intentionally, I can read- I suppose I was excited and wanted to see how it would look, and because the sight of them hanging ajar bothered me, and then I conveniently forgot. Doing this did cause problems, which fortunately I was able to overcome at the expense of time and a non-stop stream of expletives which I'm sure the cat was laughing at, in the next room. I also had two major unrelated accidents that required replacement of stays. However, in the end I was able to recover.

 

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My first rope coil for belaying at the bitts. This took a while, as water alone was not sufficient to relax the line sufficiently. I will be refining my methods and hopefully the rest will be better,

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Mix a little white glue or acrylic matte medium with your water when forming coils. Your model is definitely looking good. Hope the cat's ears have recovered....

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Installed the boom. Trickier than I would have thought. I passed on adding the "super detail" of a block and tackle for the falls, I did most of the other such details, but am having trouble working within the confines of the lines already installed. Next time. . .

 

Knocked off the rear gun port lids, no biggie.

 

I'm on the last couple pages of the manual- guess I'm almost done. Looking around for a suitable, low-cost brake to use in forming the PE railings. Also thinking about my next model. If I do a kit, and for cost related reasons I may make that choice, the USS Constitution is tempting. . . 

 

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Edited by bobandlucy
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Hung and rigged the boats. I had a bear of a time belaying the lines, the forward ones especially, and the boats slipped downward a bit. The manual warns of obscuring the gun ports, but that is what I ended up with- if the guns were fired, it would blow the bottoms off the boats! Would still have happened if tightened up to the point where the blocks touched each other. . . I'm going to leave them alone. During this operation I got the magnifying headset I've been using caught in the main mast backstays- almost a disaster but I was able to get it free without breaking the lines or worse. This is not the first time that the headset has caused me problems. It's fine for working with small items on the tabletop, but not for rigging! I will be looking for an alternative to use for the next model.

 

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The martingale stays at the bowsprit should have been with one attachment at the outer stop, and for the other side, at the inner stop. But it does not look bad to me, and I will not change it. I broke the striker three times already! There is a paper band added below the cap for added strength, and it looks like I still need to paint it.

 

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Another instance where I seemed not to have absorbed the instructions- I added ratlines to the mainmast upper shrouds. The manual clearly states that they are not required. Also, I had forgot to add the mast hoops to the upper mast, so I cut them, spread them apart and inserted, then used a dot of CA and closed using tweezers. I rotated them so that the cuts would not appear all in a line. These are not shown installed in any of the pictures in the manual, including the picture of the finished model on the cover, but I cannot see that they could go in any other location.

 

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I add these True Confessions as an aid to future builders of this model. 

 

Down to a couple of items, then touchup. I still haven't selected the next project. I've looked at USS Constitution and Rattlesnake, but am not sure that my skills are up to tackling either of those models. 

 

Overall, I'm very happy with the results, and can't quite believe I have pulled this one off (crossed fingers for the railings).

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bob, Very nice model!  Your blocks and strops look good.  My only comment, for reference with future builds, is that the main stay should not be bent out of its true path by the fore braces. The thick stay is under a lot of tension and would not be readily distorted.

 

I apologize for this critique; I offer it purely to add to the fidelity of your future builds.

 

Keep up the good work! Looking forward to your next log.

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Thanks Ian, no apologies necessary. I did wonder a bit about this, but it is as shown in the manual. My bends may be a touch more severe, but the bends are as pictured. . .  I will keep this in mind in the future as suggested. In any case, the flexibility of this arrangement kept me from disaster several times!

 

b

 

Edited by bobandlucy
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Installed the ensign and railings. Calling it done.

 

Thanks to all commenters for participating, and for advice. Thanks to David Antscherl for the kit design, and for the excellent instruction I have received throughout the series. I have learned much through building these models. I'm a little sad now it's over. . .

 

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Congratulations on completing a fine build. She looks terrific and you should be justifiably proud.

 

:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic:champagne-popping-smiley-emotic

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Awesome job, Bob!  Although I started following later in your build, it has been fun (and educational for me!) to watch your progress, your struggles, and your successes.  Your Harriet Lane is finished! Are you going to encase it, as druxey suggests?

 

And, of course, we have to ask... WHAT NEXT?!? :) 

 

Gregg

Edited by GGibson

Gregg

 

Current Projects:                                                             Completed Projects:                                                                 Waiting for Shipyard Clearance:

 Santa Maria Caravelle 1:48 - Ships of Pavel Nikitin     Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 - Model Shipways                    Yacht America Schooner 1851 1:64 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 - Model Shipways        RMS Titanic 1:300 - OcCre  (Couldn't help myself when it was on sale)

                                                                                              H.M. Schooner Ballahoo 1:64 - Caldercraft                             USS Constitution  1:76 - Model Shipways

                                                                                              Bluenose 1921 1:64 - Model Shipways 

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