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MAKING EYE'S AND HOOKS


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I have found that making my own eyes and hooks means getting them the size and shape I need and using brass means I can easily solder when making up more complex assemblies with them.  This comes from my background in brass locomotive construction where handrail stanchions were required in relatively large quantities.

I use a standard pair of cheep Circles pliers (the type that operate like normal pliers not reverse pliers).  I file down one of the circular tips to a fine cone with needles files then use a flat file to make sure that there is an even, parallel flat between the two jaws of the pliers.  

I can then make quite small eyes/hooks clamping the brass wire between the flats at the point along the cone where I want the desired diameter.

In the attached image I have made 1.0mm eyes with 0.5mm hard brass wire (unsoftened wire could also be employed but I like the hardened wire).  I could go smaller using finer wire as I have done in N scale locomotive constructions....

These 1mm eyes represent 50mm (2in) at 1/50 or 65mm (2 1/2in) in 1/65 for my ENDEAVOUR.  A little more realistic than the 3mm (195mm or 7 3/4in) versions provided in the kit

(but as a newbie I could be wrong.....)

IMG_0218.jpg

Completed:  

PORT JACKSON - 1803 Topsail Schooner 1/50 by Modellers Shipyard

HMB ENDEAVOUR - 1768 Bark 1/64 by Artesania Latina

Under Construction:  

HMAV BOUNTY - 1/60 by Amati

NORFOLK Colonial Sloop- 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS EURYALUS - 1:48 Scratchbuild POF

Next Project:  

HMS THUNDRER - 1/48 CAF Models/Scratchbuild

Planned:  

HMS SUPPLY - 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS SIRIUS

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Yep, this is the method I suggest when folks ask about where to buy eye bolts. Why buy them when you can quickly and easily make them yourself? And for much less money, too!

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Salmson 2, Speeljacht

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For those who can't bring themselves to sacrifice a pair of needle nose pliers, or just love an excuse to buy another tool, "store boughten" "wire looping pliers" are now available from jewelers' supply houses in many different styles and sizes, permitting three or more different sized loops from a single pair of pliers. 

 

For really small eyes, I resort to using a drill bit of the desired size, bend a length of wire over the middle of the drill bit, and, holding the two ends of the wire, use the drill bit to twist up the wire ends. I then slide out the drill bit and snip the "pig tail" to the desired length. The twisted ends hold really tiny eyebolts better when glued into holes, too.!

 

 

 

tools-pliers-wolfgroovyloopingpliers-PL758c.jpg

 

180-0035-2.jpg

 

 

Edited by Bob Cleek
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I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models.  Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye.

 

Rob

post-2739-0-02519500-1486933005_thumb.jpg

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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21 hours ago, rwiederrich said:

I make 3 sizes for my 1/96 models.  Wrap wire around a specially made hook(3 sizes) in a pin vice and twist it to form the eye.

Not only is that way easier but the twisted end will probably hold glue better.

Edited by BenD
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3 hours ago, BenD said:

Not only is that way easier but the twisted end will probable hold glue better.

Actually...this is quite true.

 

These are so easy to make too.  I just cut a piece of wire about an inch long...crease it back onto itself, forming a *U*.  Then grip the two ends with a plier....then using a *Hook* of the desired size(Diameter of the eye) in a pin vice, I hook the looped wire and then turn the wire, winding it, onto itself.  when the turns are tight, prior to breaking, I cut the shank to the desired length.  Then slide the pad eye off the *Hook*.

 

Easy- Peasy....

 

Rob

Current build:

Build log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25382-glory-of-the-seas-medium-clipper-1869-by-rwiederrich-196

 

 

Finished build:

Build log: of 1/128th Great Republic: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/#

 

Current build(On hold):

Build log: 1/96  Donald McKay:http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4522-donald-mckay-medium-clipper-by-rwiederrich-1855/

 

Completed build:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/475-196-cutty-sark-plastic/

The LORD said, "See, I have set (them) aside...with skills of all kinds, to make artistic designs for work in gold, silver, and bronze, to cut and set stones, to work in wood, and to engage in all kinds of crafts."

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On 2/10/2022 at 12:33 AM, Peter6172 said:

I use a standard pair of cheep Circles pliers (the type that operate like normal pliers not reverse pliers).  I file down one of the circular tips to a fine cone with needles files then use a flat file to make sure that there is an even, parallel flat between the two jaws of the pliers.  


Peter, I am wondering how the pliers can be soft enough to file down while being strong enough not to bend when being used? Do you harden them? Perhaps you can explain?

 

Ideally the answer would be to buy hardened conical nosed pliers. However I have not yet found any with very small points to the cones. Most available on the web seem to have cones with a minimum diameter of about 1mm, whereas I would agree that 0.5mm is more useful. Does anyone know of conical nosed pliers with very small tip diameters?

Edited by KeithAug

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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4 hours ago, BenD said:

Not only is that way easier but the twisted end will probably hold glue better.

I've found the twisted end can be twisted into a hole like a screw and require no glue..

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

Current builds:    Rattlesnake (Scratch From MS Plans 

On Hold:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

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2 hours ago, KeithAug said:

Ideally the answer would be to buy hardened conical nosed pliers. However I have not yet found any with very small points to the cones. Most available on the web seem to have cones with a minimum diameter of about 1mm, whereas I would agree that 0.5mm is more useful. Does anyone know of conical nosed pliers with very small tip diameters?

Try looking at jewelry tools.  I think I've seen some that small while looking for a specific size in the past though my needs weren't that small.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thank you Mark. I find it difficult to ascertain from the web any specific reference to the minimum diameter and I see many references to mal alignment and other quality issues. I was just wondering whether anyone could recommend a specific make that met the criteria.

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Keith, are there any jewelers or even watch repair shops near you?  Might be worth talking to them.   By jewelers I'm speaking of the big chain types but more the old "mom and pop" shops that actually make jewelry.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I have a pair of these which I quite like. They let me do pretty fine loops.  Forewarned they aren’t cheap…

 

Lindstrom RX7590 - RX Series Ergonomic Pliers - Round Nose - Fine Jaw - 4.72" L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LNHMRS

Tim

 

Current Build:  Swift Pilot Boat 1805 (AL)

On Deck: Triton Cross Section, Harvey (AL), Falcon US Coast Guard (AL), Flying Fish (Model Shipways)

 

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5 hours ago, KeithAug said:


Peter, I am wondering how the pliers can be soft enough to file down while being strong enough not to bend when being used? Do you harden them? Perhaps you can explain?

 

Ideally the answer would be to buy hardened conical nosed pliers. However I have not yet found any with very small points to the cones. Most available on the web seem to have cones with a minimum diameter of about 1mm, whereas I would agree that 0.5mm is more useful. Does anyone know of conical nosed pliers with very small tip diameters?

Keith, I bought a very cheap pair from the local Bunnings (hardware) store.   While there may have been some surface hardening, They were fairly easy to file down.   I used needle files to turn one cylinder end into a cone with nearly a point on it and a large (near new) flat file to file flats so that there was a parallel flat face on each side to hold the wire (albeit about 0.2mm wide at the tip.

The tip is certainly robust enough to hold and bend hard brass wire.  The key is the height to diameter ratio of the cone.  Keep it to no more than 2; anything more and you might well fine that the tip starts to bend.

Completed:  

PORT JACKSON - 1803 Topsail Schooner 1/50 by Modellers Shipyard

HMB ENDEAVOUR - 1768 Bark 1/64 by Artesania Latina

Under Construction:  

HMAV BOUNTY - 1/60 by Amati

NORFOLK Colonial Sloop- 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS EURYALUS - 1:48 Scratchbuild POF

Next Project:  

HMS THUNDRER - 1/48 CAF Models/Scratchbuild

Planned:  

HMS SUPPLY - 1/64 Scratchbuild

HMS SIRIUS

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