Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[riverboat]

are some of the cars Pocher kits? Your collection is really nice Michael. Do you have some of the old Hubbley kits?

 I did Pocher's Alpha Romeo years ago, love those kits!!!

Frank  Sorry for the off topic.........

Edited September 30, 2014 by riverboat

[WackoWolf]

Good question "riverboat" even if it is off topic.

[md1400cs]

Guys,

 

None of these are Pocher. The vast majority are from Franklin Mint and Danbury Mint at 1/24th scale. Both no longer produce diecast cars. Pocher are all 1/12th scale much bigger.

 

The others are 1/18th from these sources; German, Italian companies all of which manufacture in China. All come totally pre assembled, I just collect them.

 

http://www.cmc-modelcars.de/en/home/

 

http://www.autoartmodels.com/en/

 

http://bbrmodels.it/

 

http://www.fronti-art.com/pd.php?catnum=5

 

----------------

 

I did years ago start a Pocher Mercedes never finished it. Yes amazing kits. Here are some AMAZING finished Pocher cars. We have our great modelers and so do they

 

http://bellateq.net/mml2/mualfa_fin.html

 

Cheers,

 

MIchael

[riverboat]

Thanks Michael.Great links!!

Frank

Edited September 30, 2014 by riverboat

[WackoWolf]

Beautiful Links. Thank you

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Minor update finishing-up the anchors; I decided to use the Corel provided stocks (the two light wood pieces are from “I don’t remember” were).

 

The anchors should be attached to two separate half stalks. I faked this by using a micro saw blade to imitate the two halves. Weak, but looks ok. Though I needed to add a shunt to fix the anchors in place.

 

Then went down to the kitchen to take command of some of the Admiral’s designer for “guest” toothpicks.  Photos are self-explanatory so will keep this brief. The Vasa did not use metal framing, but instead had treenails for joining the two halves, along with four metal bolts.

 

-----------------------------

 

My first attempt at wrapping the anchor rings with rope was, well a failure. As you can see-oops- not enough rope length on my first attempt. Second and third tries were charms. Using tarred rope was a question, but the 1/10^th did not, so I mimicked that thought.

 

As I went along, I used GS Hypo to fix in place the three or four loops at a time. Came out better than I expected. After dabbing the glue I used a finger to remove excess. This glue is really cool. As you can see the glue disappears.

 

Last few pics just for the visual. Need to attach and fix anchor’s main ropes etc.…though not sure about the anchor rope, maybe too thick??  

 

Also need to make two buoys per Landström’s drawings. Speaking of whom the correct details for wrapping the rings with rope are SO beyond my skills, I saw the pic and started laughing…..

 

PS: Only port side will have the fish-davit, for a “transition look”.

PS2: Yes those eight brass nails should be black, got lazy on this bit. Time will dull them (;-)

 

As always thanks so much for your dropping by.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Edited October 15, 2014 by md1400cs

[edmay]

Hello Michael, It's OK to say the Admiral let you have a few of her special guest toothpicks,we don't have secrets on MSW,ha If the Admirals really knew what we bought or acquired,some would be walking the plank.The anchors are perfectly done,your workmanship and encouragement is second to none,you are one of several master craftsmen on this site,thanks for the photo's and the learnings . Edwin

[dragzz]

u have done such a great job on the wasa i have the billing wasa . keep up the great work that u are doing

[md1400cs]

Hello Michael, It's OK to say the Admiral let you have a few of her special guest toothpicks,we don't have secrets on MSW,ha If the Admirals really knew what we bought or acquired,some would be walking the plank.The anchors are perfectly done,your workmanship and encouragement is second to none,you are one of several master craftsmen on this site,thanks for the photo's and the learnings . Edwin

Edwin,

 

You are way too kind with your praise blush, blush...Thanks so much very touching indeed.

 

Further to your other points regarding what some of us pirates actually steal to "invest" into this hobby, YES you are so right. Were we to be "outed" our membership at MSW would no doubt ebb by 50%, assuming that even those would survive. Great point. funny and true.

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

Edited October 15, 2014 by md1400cs

[md1400cs]

Hi Michael

 

Just catching up on your build log, I did get a long way behind, mostly just caught up in my own little corner with Victory and along with a resent two week vacation with almost no internet. Sorry that I misted your Birthday, wishing you the best and I am sure that you had a great day, and also that you received all the new toys that you wanted.

You are doing a great super job on your Vasa , adding your own little ideas and a huge amount of detail. Yes my Victory is getting close to the launch time, I figure that around Christmas will be very close, may-be,                                            ENJOY.

 

Regards   Lawrence

Lawrence,

 

Thanks for your thoughts. Also enjoying watching your build, two centuries ahead of my potential work (:-)

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for your very encouraging remarks, likes and for just dropping in (;-)

 

----------------

 

So a very partial (just beginning) update, but I thought that if someone could find this useful I would post.

 

Working on all 50+ very small lion heads for the gun doors.

 

At first I picked each one up one at a time and started with the yellow paint

 

Then again one at a time painted the bit darker mane.

 

Then one at a time added the red for the mouth

 

Then went back to add the white for the eyes.

 

No no, no, no, what a nightmare; the eyeballs were too big, the mouths were odd looking. It was taking way too long. My eyes were asking me what I was doing?…

 

So going back to square one.

 

Needed to create a “factory” sort of assembly. My solution

 

Step 1 used a piece of packing tape and placed all 50+ heads on a board.

            Step 2 I will paint all 50+ eyes

            Step 3 I will add all 100 eye pupils

            Step 4 I will paint all mouths

Step 5 I will NOW paint the face and overlap correctly eyes and mouths with yellow

Step 6 I follow up with darker edge manes.

 

This should save quite a bit of time (I hope)

 

those that have been sort of completed will be "fixed"

 

PS: Yes I know that the 1/10^th has just yellow, along with eyes. Adding a bit of poetic license to this bit.

 

I’ll post when done. May be overkill!!

 

Cheers.

 

 

 

[JPett]

Ahoy Micheal 

 

Search for "warhammer figure painting" on YouTube

 

I think you will find these guys are excellent at painting items like this and some very good tips.

[NMBROOK]

Rather you than me Michael I do agree the mass production factory method is possibly the only route for a task like this one and maintain sanity at the same time I do think they will add a great deal of visual interest with that degree of detail painting.Your new order of things is the correct way,that was the way I used to do it with armour figures many years ago and was,although I say it myself,quite good at it.Only thing that may make things easier to 'see' is to paint the whole head with a white base coat that also forms the whites of the eyes.This may make it easier to see the shape of the eyes when cutting back in with the yellow.Just a thought.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[kpnuts]

I don't envy you that task supreme build by the way, way out of my skills set.

[marktiedens]

Looks very nice - I hope you can get them off the tape without chipping the paint. .

 

/Mark

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

You are a better man than me having that sort of patience for your assembly line painting

A shot of whiskey to steady your hands?

 

Great job,

 

Frank

[JanV]

Looks very nice - I hope you can get them off the tape without chipping the paint. .

 

/Mark

I have used the same method, and the lions coudl be released from the tape without any problem (after approximately one week after finishing the yellow colour)

[md1400cs]

Ahoy Micheal 

 

Search for "warhammer figure painting" on YouTube

 

I think you will find these guys are excellent at painting items like this and some very good tips.

J.Pett,

 

Thanks, I did check it out. These airbrush masters really walk on water...such artists. I have seen military figures that are almost impossible to believe; such as this one

[md1400cs]

Rather you than me Michael I do agree the mass production factory method is possibly the only route for a task like this one and maintain sanity at the same time I do think they will add a great deal of visual interest with that degree of detail painting.Your new order of things is the correct way,that was the way I used to do it with armour figures many years ago and was,although I say it myself,quite good at it.Only thing that may make things easier to 'see' is to paint the whole head with a white base coat that also forms the whites of the eyes.This may make it easier to see the shape of the eyes when cutting back in with the yellow.Just a thought.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Nigel,

 

You just keep on surprising. Oh my you also did military figures !!! Maybe you might be tempted to share (;-)

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Hi mates,

 

Well it appears as though this worked out ok.

 

I had removed all of the heads from that plastic shipping tape, deciding that I was not up to doing eyeballs. I tried a few with resulting pupils too large, crossed eyes or hanging too low. Hmmm

 

Then looking at all those heads with bulging white-eye balls sans pupils irritated me, and on second thought I needed the challenge.

 

Put all of the heads back onto a tape, fine trimmed a toothpick, dulling the tip ever so slightly, thinned out a bit of black paint and gave it a second attempt, much nicer than just white eyes IMO

 

That said, I must give huge credit to Corel. The head castings are so excellent, including a pinpoint tip specific to the eye pupils. So toothpick in hand AND Optivisor attached I tried to hit each pupil pinpoint. Had Corel not done such a detailed casting of the lion heads I would have just painted the whole things yellow, and been done with this bit.

 

PS: With apologies to Ferrari and Lamborghini for using their “Italian Red” for lion mouths.

 

Now on to the doors, hardware, inside insert frames, hinges, and ropes.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[Ponto]

Nice  progress,... and don't sweat the minute details too much --- if you add a wash or two for depth and than add some dry brushing for highlights, the effect as a whole will become more unified.

 

JP

[NMBROOK]

Hi Michael

I would share if I still had any of the military stuff I used to make.I am going back 25 years and a messy divorce,plus many house moves.I did,may still have a Stug 4 somewhere in the loft but I am afraid that is about it  If I still had it all now there would be no room for ships

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

[JPett]

These airbrush masters really walk on water.

 

Ahoy Micheal,

 

Most do not use airbrushes. They are done by building up many thin layers with a brush 

 

They are amazing though 

Edited October 27, 2014 by JPett

[md1400cs]

Ahoy Micheal,

 

Most do not use airbrushes. They are done by building up many thin layers with a brush 

 

They are amazing though 

JPett,

 

As I've always told myself, "Don't offer opinions about things that you know nothing about"  Still learning on that point

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[riverboat]

your painting skills will be second to none........ when you finish this up.. .... look'n good Michael

 

Frank

[edmay]

Michael,Heads up to you(old English pun) It's the small details that's made your model high in quality,so sweat it out,you will feel so much more proud of your efforts.Edwin

[md1400cs]

Nice  progress,... and don't sweat the minute details too much --- if you add a wash or two for depth and than add some dry brushing for highlights, the effect as a whole will become more unified.

 

JP

JP,

 

I will learn about this thanks for sharing

 

MIchael

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Moving along, now starting on the cannon doors. Wanted to replicate the example from the original, so thought that the pics below were an acceptable solution. Pics are self-explanatory so I’ll remain brief J

 

So after 100 of these I should be done except for the hinge pins and installation.

 

The last pic is just a demo, need to square and make adjustments. I know that in the original the insert planks are vertical, and that mine are attached horizontally. A compromise, but so it has been going with this build  - hmmmm..

 

As usual thanks so much for visiting, “likes”, very kind and encouraging comments, and just dropping in for a look….

 

Regards,

 

Michael

[riverboat]

they are going to look real good Michael, looking forward to seeing them installed. (take your time , no need to rush for  me )

Frank                                                                

[NMBROOK]

They are going to look great Michael As ever,I am thinking if you could laminate the two sections together,then mill to size and mill the rebate on the MF70.This would mean perfect squareness and an exact lip on all lids.Just a suggestion my friend,thinking of how this mass production job could be made a little easier.Hardest thing would be holding them.Possibly spot gluing to a sheet of ply and clamping that down.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel