Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[md1400cs]

Lawrence,

 

Thank you - always so nice to see you dropping in. So I have spent the last two + hours going through Frank and Karl's logs during sail construction. So informative. Wonderful reference. Frank what step-by-step details! Thanks mates...

 

OH Frank I need to apologize, I don't know why I thought that your Admiral stitched those sails. It was you. You are the artist. Apologies my friend. 

 

So I found this place close to my home.

 

https://www.sewingarts.com/

 

Guess who will be signing up for sewing classes? 

 

The shrouds are coming along, slowly. I've learned some things - I'll post some details coming up. But I'm still not comfortable with the way I seize the shrouds, knots are all wrong. Hmmm,

 

 

 

[Ferit]

Hi Michael,

Many details... As I had said long time ago there is something special on your build, I don't know exactly what they are. But sure many things engulf many of us...

BTW one thing I had used during my build is that to adjust the upright distance I had twisted the rope of the shroud one, two, three or four times clockwise direction or reverse. This can shorten or lengthen the rope. To twist to much should uglify the aspect of the rope.

[md1400cs]

Ferit,

 

Thanks so much. Brilliant idea indeed. And as always you are so kind with your comments.

 

Many of us miss YOUR work. Hopefully you will, one day, get back to your ship yard. Below are a couple of examples of Ferit's beautiful Berlin from his build log. (I hope that you don't mind my posting two photos).

 

PS: You are also the one who introduced me to G-S Hypo Cement. so perfect for rigging work (:-) Thanks for still visiting my build log (:-)

 

Cheers,

 

MIchael

 

[Ferit]

Michael,

 

I clicked on the Like button but what I liked is your kindness not the workmanship on my work...  

I really think to get back to Berlin. It's very fine for me to see some samples of my work on your Log.

(About G-S Hypo Cement I think that it has no reputation it deserves...)

[Salty Sea Dog]

Catching up again Michael. Brilliant work throughout!! I appreciate your pointing out your thoughts as you work through these steps. It helps me learn as you learn. Thanks! Now if I can just learn your craftsmanship!!

 

Ferit- I hit the like button because of Michael's kind words AND your awesome work!

[md1400cs]

Ferit,  Yes indeed please go back to your shipyard. It is my honor to post your excellent Berlin work on my log.

 

PS: Loved your G-S translation. So excellent. I will have to remember that line....You are so right. It is almost overlooked here at MSW as an amazing bonding agent for ropes.

 

------------------------

 

Buck, Thanks so much as well. BUT when it comes to super small complicated details, Well you are the lighthouse !! (:-)

 

--------------------------

 

I will post an update with a detailed look at G-S and why it it perfect.

 

Mates thank for the clicks and all of your encouraging thoughts. 

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Edited April 5, 2016 by md1400cs

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

Some thoughts in two areas.

Shroud installation.

Used the wire spacer clip for only the first two, most forward shrouds. Subsequently I decided to use locking tweezers and “eyeball” each subsequent spacing after an initial rope knot around a deadeye (tended to be faster, easier, and accurate after a couple of adjustments) Key is using self locking tweezers that leave the deadeye and its rope “locked” into place ready for seizing’s.

Added the seizing’s and glued them tight. I find G-S Hypo cement to be so excellent for ropes, but it leaves a bit of a visible reflective residue on dark ropes (not so on tan) 

Once the glue dries I then brush on Hobby Master Flat Clear, and residue totally disappears. Then cut the overhanging threads. Spooled the deadeyes (will adjust and wrap tension ropes after installing the other side). PS: If you decide this is good. Be SURE to shake the heck out of the bottle-otherwise the results will not be flat, but semi-gloss clear

NEXT I needed to remove the four previously installed double blocks for the foremast backstays. They were just hanging in place, waiting for their chainplate blocks and ropes. Turns out that fiddle blocks were called for - grrrr. BUT the wo ropes were loose at the mast cap, so I could pull each side through, and I had enough length to easily remove the four double blocks with the ropes still attached to the mast J Made fiddle blocks by using two blocks, flattening (a bit) the tops and used CA to glue them together.

BLOCKS

 

IN BETWEEN this I wanted to add a bit of extra definition to Syren’s super excellent blocks. In a previous post I described this using a small drill bit and sort of reshaping the inside by “rubbing” the spinning bit along its side reshaping the inside “pulley”.

 

It’s a subtle change, but it works for me. Also deepened the blocks longitudinal attaching rope grooves as well as adding grooves at top and bottoms.

 

IMO once the blocks are spooled it gives them a bit more realistic look. The wood is very soft so it’s simple and easy to do.

 

Did the same detailing with the fiddle blocks, and also tried softening the sides by rounding the edges a bit more. 

Note the lower installed block rope ring/hook from a couple of previous posts – at the chainplate. This came out to my satisfaction.

OH one last bit (;-) I added the king to the foremast. Clayton had this detail on his Vasa. It is apparently an historically correct detail. He let me copy his example – so nice of him indeed. How?

 

Printed one of his foremast jpg’s;  adjusted the size, printed it, sprayed the page with Krylon Crystal Clear coating, cut out the king, glued it to the mast. King’s crown was not cut just right but -  oh well J

I need to improve my shroud seizings, Mark – Marktiedens gave me some tips, need to improve their horizontal alignments with their mates. And need to more evenly nip the tips of the seized shrouds to match the others heights as well. Always a learning thing - isn’t it? But I “get” this bit now.

 

And thanks for dropping by, always so appreciated

 

 

Regards,

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[marktiedens]

Super job .

 

Mark

[Salty Sea Dog]

WOW!! Great fiddle blocks and block detailing. The ropes really lay in realistically with the drill bit work. Nice tip about the flat clear.

[lambsbk]

that is some FINE detail. Well done Michael.

[EJ_L]

Excellent work! Thank you also for posting all these highly detailed pictures and steps. I am learning a great deal from watching your ship come together.

[md1400cs]

Mark, Buck, Dave, El_J  

 

Thanks for you thoughts Happy that you approve. Also thanks for the "likes" mates (;-)

 

Michael

[edmay]

Outstanding work Michael,Edwin

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Great update!

 

Glad to see that you found a method that works for you with the shroud installation.

 

I look forward to seeing more of your progress!

 

Frank

[flyer]

Hi Michael

 

Excellent work on your Vasa. I very much like the look of that ropes and the way they are set up. If you ever consider to part with your bosun - I'll hire him on the spot.

 

One thought (of a landlubber) about the setting up of the shrouds: In my opinion the placing of the upper deadeyes in an exact line is a bit overrated. In the prototype the most important thing would be the correct tension in each shroud. The ropes are working and change individually and are individually adjusted with their lanyards. I would expect a reset of the upper deadeyes only occasionally when they differ just too much in height. So go ahead with eyeballing. And I keep telling myself that a slight variation in the deadeyes heights just looks more natural.

 

Cheers

peter

[Ferit]

Mastery...

[dgbot]

Nice tip on using the flat laquer.

David B

[md1400cs]

Mates,

 

Thanks for the likes and comments.

 

Peter thanks for dropping in and posting. I, also, as a landlubber, have tended to follow the look of builds that I admire. And yes it seems as if the deadeye alignments are the examples to follow, but I would imagine that your notions are actually correct. Your description makes entirely good sense.

 

I, then went back through some files, and did, in fact, notice variations with the museum's and the 1/10th. My mindset ignored "seeing" these.

 

Noted, thanks I will continue to eyeball them, but I will also be less stressed if I see minor variations. Thanks again for your thoughts.

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Edited April 9, 2016 by md1400cs

[lambsbk]

I agree. These were working lines and as such would not necessarily be completely symmetrical. Enjoy your freedom Michael. 

[md1400cs]

Dave,

 

You just made my day (:-) thanks !

 

PS: You work with optics is so impressive. Been following (;-)

 

Michael

[md1400cs]

Grrrrr curses,

 

I was just finishing up the shrouds and deadeyes on starboard side. Needed to angle the ship a bit sideways. It slipped out of its “groove” and fell over onto the table. I wasn’t careful when “sideways” positioning it.

 

Will leave this alone for now.  Could have been much worse, I guess.

Need to think this through. OK Now just full attention to watching my Dodger game J

 

Michael

 

[GLakie]

It slipped out of its “groove” and fell over onto the table. I wasn’t careful when “sideways” positioning it.

     I hope the damage isn't too bad Michael! 

[texxn5]

I agree with George....ouch

[Vivian Galad]

Great updates. Rigging is the funny part, sure, but gives us some headache. 

 

Nice to be back to your log!

[EJ_L]

I hope nothing was too badly damaged. I once caught the bowsprit with the sleeve of a very baggy sweatshirt I was wearing one winter since my basement is very cold. Snapped the jib boom right off just as I had finished rigging the stays for it. Last time I wore that sweatshirt while modeling.

[Ferit]

Hi Michael,

I think that it's important to stretch one shroud from starboard side then one shroud from port side. If all shrouds only from one side were set at a time, some inclination of the mast to the side firstly stretched is inevitable...

And 10 hours after my post I realize that I have misunderstood what you had said. It is sad to hear about the accident. (Edited)

Edited April 11, 2016 by AlphaUrsaeMinoris

[dgbot]

Ouch. My sympathies.  

David B

[igorsr]

This ship is excellent,

one of the best!

[md1400cs]

HI Mates

 

George, John, Vivian, David thanks for your concerns. Vivian so nice to see you back posting on your build log (;-)

 

EL_J  after reading your much more involved damage, I feel embarrassed posting my, by comparison, little damage. That must have really been a pain.

 

igorsr - thanks for your such nice comment -blush....

 

Ferit, thanks – noted, as usual your thoughts are always appreciated.

 

So after yesterday’s double trauma (The also Dodgers lost ha ha). Today I sat and looked at the damage, found more (minimum) at the gallery. 

 

Did the repairs easier than expected. Glued the deadeye/chainplate with CA to its broken off ring. and then that section was able to be coaxed back into place.

 

Then went back to shrouds/deadeyes. Hmm - noticed that for some reason the fish davit beam was loose and moving around.

 

Then it “hit me” the davit absorbed the majority of the impact shock as the ship fell over. This “foresight” (of installing this bit) probably saved me from dealing with a lot more potential damage, especially to the platform and gallery. Well once-in-awhile an important win gets me by. J

 

Luckily it was well glued and did not slide across the deck causing more issues

 

Michael

Edited April 12, 2016 by md1400cs

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

Sorry to hear about the damage! You are not alone!

A while back I knocked out the bowsprit to my Charles Morgan!

Hopefully, things can be repaired easily.

 

Good luck,

 

Frank