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French 64 Gun Ship 1729 by Jeronimo


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That is not good news but understandable.   Will you have to start over or can you cut the bow off this model and us it?  That might save you much work.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Just some random comments:

 

If you think the 64 gun hull is large, you should try the 118 gun Commerce de Marseille?  Even at 1:60 it is a contest for who will get the work room!

 

You are very fortunate in being able to source Sorbus torminalis.  The wood looks excellent,

 

I have tried many tools in a search for a way to shape the inside of the framing. 

The angle grinder that you show is one that works fairly well for me.

I wish I could find a slim electric grinder that is 45/120 degrees  as it would make getting inside easier - but I only find compressed air tools with that feature..

 

The one that I find to be more useful is this one:

https://www.kaleas.de/en/modeling-tinker/minitool/140/minitool-right-angle-grinder

The disk that  comes with it is a bit wide.  There is a chuck accessory that allows for disks with smaller diameters.  The problem is that it extends the cutting surface out from the motor.  The motor itself is about the size of my hand, so if I can get my hand inside, I can get the grinder inside.

 

I do not know the metric equivalents  but I am quite pleased to have a drum sander to shape the frames.

A quality 1/3 HP TEFC motor with a 1/2 inch shaft and ~1700 rpm is key .  To mount it so that the shaft is vertical, all that is needed is a firm base with big rubber sound/vibration absorbing feet and a sort of Erector Set type steel angle pieces with holes for threaded bolts.  

 

A box or table is not needed.  Almost nothing on a frame is 90 degrees, so a table just gets in the way.  

I have two problems with commercial oscillating spindle sanders: 

1) The drum mounts are usually proprietary - you can only use their drums

2)  The mounts are not a simple 1/2 inch rod.  With a simple 1/2 inch rod, other things can be mounted - a chuck that can hold burrs and cutters - any other cutting tool that has a 1/2 inch mount,  buffing pads, grinding wheels.

 

It is easy to get drums with a variety of diameters that will fit directly on a 1/2 inch shaft.  I prefer sleeveless drums,  It is easy to replace the cutting material using sandpaper sheets.  I worry about the tightening to secure a sanding sleeve to a rubber drum getting the drum out of round.

I also have a drum that is 3 inches diameter and 6 inches tall.  The extra height is useful for large frames.

 

TEFC - the drums generate much sawdust.  An enclosed motor with its own cooling fan protects the motor.  I also have a large piece of cardboard with a 1/2" hole in its center sitting on the motor where the shaft comes out - It directs the sawdust away from the motor.

 

It is important to have a lot of air flow around the motor.  If used for very long, it gets hot.

 

My motor is CW/CCW.  I wired a drum switch so that the rotation can be reversed at will.  I had to have a tech person at the motor manufacturer email me the wiring diagram - It is a lot more complicated than connecting 3 wires.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Karl,

I agree about the size of the Proxxon.  I agree with your evaluation of the machine. 

I am always on the watch for something better and am fortunate to be able to afford the search.

Your presentation did refocus my attention.  I did another search for an a grinder with an angle between 0 degrees and 90 degrees.  If only Foredom Flex had that attachment!

All I found was a series of air driven tools for automotive use.  There was one on sale at Harbor Freight - electric - acute angle - not enough acute and pretty fat.  I thought about it, but after sleeping on it - I have decided to give it a pass.  Remembering fighting with the chuck and the length of the 1",2",3" Chinese disks on the Kaleas angle grinder ( MM is their agent in the US - rebranded ) I reevaluated my preconception about how large the cutting surface on the disk should be.   I think I can use the larger disk that comes with it and use fine touch and finesse to get almost everywhere inside the hull.  The machine does a trick (works well) on shaping  the outside - quickly.   I have an advantage over your method as far as shaping without damaging the edges of the frames.  I have Pine fillers where the spaces are.  They have an easily reversible bond - to punch them out when the hull is final.  (I am still working on finding the perfect glue to temporarily hold them and let go and disappear.)   Centurion is on the stocks because the disappear part using Scotch double sided tape did not work out all that well. I got frustrated with that fiddly bit.  It is tight in there between the frames!

 

I wonder if years down the road, you will wish you had chosen the complete hull  1:60 option  - my HMS Centurion 60 1732  is 1:60 and I like the size. 50% of the volume of the 1:48.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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