French canadian new member

[Maxx Brodeur]

Allo everyone!

My name is Maxx and I'm new to model ship building. I'm a rc sailing passionate and since I started I dream of making a tall ship and sail it.

So I bought a Norske Love 1/75 from Billing. So far so good but I know there will be a time when I need experienced people to help me.

Anyone else make their ship radio controlled?

[Baker]

Great start 👍

[Maxx Brodeur]

Thank you Patrick!  I too have a furry forman

[druxey]

Bonjour et bienvenue ici, Maxx!

[Maxx Brodeur]

Thank you Druxey!

[jonstable]

Hello from Ontario, and from another brand-newbie on MSW!

[allanyed]

Welcome to MSW Maxx,  Your project looks to be very interesting and a big challenge! 

Allan

[Dave_E]

Hey Max, welcome to the forum! 👍😀

[Jim Lad]

Hello Maxx, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'.

 

John

[JohnLea]

Bonjour!  Comment ca va?

[Ouija2006]

Salut Max! Bienvenue à bord! Je vais suivre votre "build log" avec beaucoup d'intérèt!

 

Au plaisir!

 

 

Edited October 12, 2022 by Ouija2006
Typo

[ccoyle]

Hi, Maxx! We encourage our members to tag there RC builds with the word "radio." If you click here, you'll see what we've got so far. A few of them are even tallships, like your own project.

 

Good luck!

[mtaylor]

Welcome to MSW, Maxx.   Follow Chris's advice as to other projects and also start a build log.  The log is a great way to get help.

[Jaager]

Maxx,

 

I have zero experience with RC,  so everything I write about this is a layman's theory.

I suspect that this is another Dennis Moore situation.

 

It seems that in every case - the physics / hydrodynamics of a floating model when under sail does not directly translate to how the actual vessel behaved on water ? 

Wind is also a sort of fluid in this situation and the safe range is more of a log function than a linear one? (The safe range is narrow?)

Much more ballast is needed?  

The degree of heeling allowed for a model of a larger vessel  before it will not recover is almost nil?

The hulls are either much deeper and way out of scale or there is wing below the keel. Either one tends to make a model sort of a pig when viewed on shore?  (A very personal judgement since esthetics is not something that fits a formula.)

 

Easy access to the bilge after a session is  important?

It is probably a really good thing for the bulk of the water proofing to be on the inside of the hull?

POB is probably about the least efficient and most troublesome method to use to fabricate a floating hull.

( My solo bias is that POF with zero spaces is probably the user friendly fabrication method for an age of sail hull that is intended to take to the water. ) (A hollowed out loaf of sliced bread.)

 

As with modern full size replicas, if you intend much time on the water with it, an electric version of a Volvo Penta would make control and recovery less frustrating.

 

If this is more than a whim,    a topsail schooner  as a first ( you probably already have sloop down pat )  and then a brig, before wrestling with a three master (4 with the bow spars). 

 

 

[Maxx Brodeur]

So in other words, you don't think it's going to work? ...and thank you for the welcome.

 

[Jaager]

4 hours ago, Maxx Brodeur said:

you don't think it's going to work?

Not exactly - will not work - more that it may be a lot more complicated than it first appears to be.

I have a Model Boats catalog of plans from about 1970.  It has a lot of plans for pond boats and competition craft.

About every one had an under water body that was unattractive.  I suspect that there is a serious reason that such designs were done.

 

While it may not be felicitous for first contact to be a warning that you may be in a mine field, it does not change the situation concerning the mines.   I took it that by posting photos - you were inviting comments.

Often, when I make comments like in the post above, others, who were much more informed and experienced jump in and clarify the situation.  The result of the scrum is usually a lot of helpful information.

 

My intention was to meet the first lesson in The Parable of the Frozen Russian Bird.

[Knocklouder]

[cdnguy68]

Greetings from Ontario!  Your ship looks like a fantastic build....

[Maxx Brodeur]

1 hour ago, cdnguy68 said:

Greetings from Ontario!  Your ship looks like a fantastic build....

Thank you!

[flutlo6180]

Hi Maxx. Welcome aboard!

[Deperdussin1910]

To Maxx...if you are still interested...

 

Re: "The hulls are either much deeper and way out of scale or there is wing below the keel. Either one tends to make a model sort of a pig when viewed on shore?  (A very personal judgement since esthetics is not something that fits a formula.)"

 

Solution:  Make the scale sailing hull you want.  Deeper draft hulls are better because they give you more room below deck and can carry more ballast.  The larger/longer the hull...the better the sailing characteristics...less corking/hobby horsing.  Water proof the hull.  Make hatches to be as large as possible to access the RC gear below deck.  To obtain windward performance and scale hull appearance, make a detachable keel.  Keep your build as light as possible and put all ballast needed for the Load Water Line at the bottom of the keel.

 

Attached picture shows a 25 pound detachable keel for a three masted schooner.   Threaded rods are glued into the keel and pass through the keel of the model in tubes and then are secured with wing nuts.  This model can carry an additional 25 pounds of internal ballast.

 

The limit to the size of you model is in lifting and transportation restrictions.

[Mic_Nao]

Bonjour Cousin, bienvenue ici !

[HardeeHarHar]

Welcome on board, and good luck with the RC job.  It looks like FUN and a CHALLENGE, which will be interesting for all of us.  Please make a build log and keep us all up to date on your voyage!