HMC Sherbourne 1763 by tkay11 - FINISHED – Caldercraft – Scale 1:64 - A Novice’s Build

[Mirabell61]

beautiful rigging on your cutter Tony,

 

it looks super with your sails set, the way you did it.....

 

Nils

[tkay11]

Thanks for all the likes and comments!

 

Spyglass: That's really interesting, so thanks for the insight. However, I'm not going to dismantle or change the rig now. I'll keep the tip for some future time.

 

Gregor: As I said to Dirk, it's thanks to the continued stimulus provided by you and others that have helped me come this far. I'm now feeling more confident about doing a build as a result, and as I'm beginning to see how all the aspects interconnect and function together. I'm especially pleased that the belaying pin rack by the stem has worked so well in terms of the logic. I'm still tempted to be agitated by the roughness of the work though ...

 

Tony

[Nirvana]

Tony

Very nice instructions and pictures. This can be applied to any model as well.

Beautiful done!

[Jörgen]

Beautiful Tony. I hope my sherbourne Will be as good as your. And your building guide will help me very much.

[tkay11]

Thanks, Jörgen. Your start and your craftmanship are already better than mine, and I'm sure many of us are looking forward to seeing your decisions along the way. Every Sherbourne I've seen has a lot different about it -- and it's always interesting.

 

Tony

[tkay11]

MAKING THE BASE

 

Whilst waiting for some parts to make a graver (so that I can turn the swivel guns) I decided to think about the base. For a very long time I have wanted to make a Perspex base so that the ship could be seen as though in the sea, while at the same time being able to see the whole hull.

 

What kept me back was how to make a plan of the breadth at the waterline since the kit plan sheets have no half breadth plans.

 

However, after thinking about it I realised that the parts page in the manual might be usable in connection with the sheet plans since the sheet plans are exactly to scale.

 

So I started by taking the measurements from the sheet plan of the side view.

 

First were the keel and waterline. This allowed me to determine the angle of the waterline which is 1.2 degrees (but which knowledge doesn’t really figure in the ensuing work).

 

At each bulkhead, I was then able to determine the distance from the waterline to the base of the bulkhead.

 

 

With this knowledge, I could then take the page on the manual and re-size it so that the bulkhead outlines were at the same scale as on the sheet plan.

 

This was done by marking the edges of the bulkheads and then measuring the distance from the base to the edge of the bulkhead. The ratio of this height to the height on the sheet plan gave the ratio for re-sizing.

 

 

I could then take the re-sized bulkhead drawings and, after adding a 1.5mm thickness to each side for the planking, determine the full width of the hull at the waterline for each bulkhead.

 

 

The measurements of the distances between each bulkhead and the width at the waterline allowed me to calculate a half-breadth plan and therefore an outline of the shape to be cut.

 

 

I pasted the plan to cardboard, cut the outline, and placed the ship in it. This showed where the outline deviated from the model. Amazingly the only significant difference was at the stern.

 

In order to compensate for the gap and draw a final outline, I glued matchsticks to the form with their ends touching the hull.

 

 

 

I then photographed the outline and resized the photograph to the same scale as the plan. This allowed me to draw a new set of Bezier curves to make a final outline.

 

 

 

As I have never cut Perspex before, I used an old sheet of the stuff I found on the road near my home and practised cutting and drilling it. It was simpler than I thought. All I used was a hand drill and a coping saw (other than the table saw to cut out a rectangle).

 

I glued the plan to the sheet with a water-based glue so that after cutting out the panel I could simply wash off the plan.

 

The current status (while I’m waiting for some tinted Perspex and the various fittings to make the final version) is as follows. Please note this is only the first attempt and the Perspex is dirty, cracked and scuffed – as you might expect from its having lain on the roadside!

 

 

I'll post later once I have made a final version of the base, but thought you might be interested in progress so far.

 

Tony

[Nirvana]

Tony,

Very nice approach for the "waterline display"

Looking forward of more.

[tkay11]

Thanks, Dirk and Dr. Per.

 

I'd be glad to send CAD files, Dirk (if you're really serious), but the problem is that each of them has a mix of a jpeg background and CAD measurements and lines. The programme will only send the measurements and lines, but not the jpeg background. So the only thing to send that shows it all would be a pdf file. Let me know by PM if you do want such a thing.

 

Tony

[tkay11]

FINALISING THE BASE

 

The A3 size blue-tinted acrylic sheet arrived, I cut it to 200mm width on my table saw using an acrylic-cutting blade, then as before cut out the shape with a coping saw.

 

To hold the sheet I bought 300mm of 12mm acrylic rod and cut it into 51mm slices on the saw, then brought that down to 50mm with the disc sander. This ensured the cuts were smooth and the face at right angles.

 

The ends of the cut rod were then polished using 1000 grit carborundum paper followed by a final polish with a leather strop and some honing compound.

 

This meant that the acrylic welding solution could then be applied to the legs with a fine paintbrush – allowing the solution to be drawn into the joint by capillary action, leaving no sign of a join.

 

The final result is as shown below.

 

 

 

 

Now I’ll start work on the swivel guns as the graver’s rod has arrived.

 

Tony

Edited July 23, 2016 by tkay11

[Jörgen]

Looks very good!!

Edited July 23, 2016 by Jörgen

[Blue Ensign]

Just love it Tony, great 'how to' posts as we've come to expect from you.

 

The display idea is spot on, personally I prefer a waterline view for models with sails, seems to set them off better.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[cog]

Love that base!!! Well done

[tkay11]

Thanks Dirk, BE, Carl, Jörgen, Gunther and Mumin. The support and encouragement always stoke that nice warm glowy feeling when the efforts are appreciated.

 

As usual, thanks to you all and so many others on this forum for the guidance I have had from your logs and notes.

 

Tony

[tkay11]

SWIVEL GUNS

 

I really didn’t like the swivel guns supplied with the kit. At first I thought I’d just keep the kit barrels and make my own swivel mounts (which I did, earlier on in the build – see within entry #100 at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-1763-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/?p=117947). I thought I wouldn’t have the skill to turn my own barrels on brass, but in the end, seeing as I bought a really cheap Taig lathe on eBay, I reckoned it would be a good opportunity to learn a new set of skills.

 

The first step, of course, was to make the right tools for the job – notably gravers. There are some excellent tutorials on the web on how to make gravers, so I bought some 3mm square HSS lathe bars, some wooden dowel and set up a sharp pointed graver for the square cuts and a rounded graver for the smooth barrelling.

 

 

I was surprised to find that with really sharp gravers, cutting into the brass was almost exactly similar to cutting into wood on a wood lathe. As a result, I was able to cut 8 barrels in a couple of days using the plans for the swivel guns from the AOTS book on the Cutter Alert. Luckily the swivel mounts I had made were exactly the right size.

 

Something that struck me was that it would be easier to cut the handle of the swivel gun at the same time – rather than soldering on a rod at a later stage. This way I’d be able to bend the handle after heating it with a butane gas burner.

 

 

It took me a little while to figure out how to cut the holes for the trunnions in such small barrels (roughly 1.5mm diameter), but I hit on the plan of making a jig from an epoxy putty (Milliput) and leaving a 0.4mm thick piece of wood on which to lay the end of the barrel so that the trunnion hole would run vertically across the barrel.

 

 

 

Unfortunately my attempts at blackening were not great – it may be that my blackening agent is now too old), so I ended up painting them (much to the dismay of my wife who thought the brass finish was beautiful). Much as I would have liked to keep the brass finish, it wouldn’t have been in keeping with the rest of the model and the ebony barrels of the 3-pounder guns. The sad thing is that the black paint on the barrels adds a layer which blurs the sharp edges of the rings and the detail.

 

Still, it’s probably a bit better than the kit barrels and I did learn a whole lot about turning brass with gravers!

 

 

Next up: Anchors

 

Tony

Edited August 13, 2016 by tkay11

[tkay11]

ANCHORS

 

As usual, I had thought I might be able to make the anchors from the kit parts, but the moment I tried to fit the wooden stock I found (as have so many before me) that the channels cut in the stocks are too wide for the shanks. So I had to make my own stocks. I used a pear offcut I had and dimensioned it using the dimensions given by zu Mondfeld in his book Historic Ship Models.

 

I drilled 0.5mm holes for the bolts, used 0.5mm brass rod to fill them, and touched the ends with undiluted brass blackener to blacken them.

 

As is the norm, I used 1mm black cartridge paper to mimic the iron rings round the stocks.

 

For the puddening of the ring I used black polyester thread, using CA glue to hold the first part in place on the ring.

 

 

STOWING THE ANCHOR

 

After a short discussion elsewhere on the forum, I decided I’d stow the anchors as for sailing (since the sails are up and the model is on a sea of Perspex). I followed Harland’s diagram (Seamanship in the Age of Sail) and used a simple stop in the catheads to hold the rope for the stock end.

 

 

Interestingly I had been puzzling about the use of two eyebolts shown on the plans for the kit placed in the deck just aft of the windlass. I decided that one of them would be perfect to hold one end of the rope for the crown end of the anchor.

 

The following pictures show how the anchors are stowed.

 

 

 

 

 

That's it. Next up: reflections on completed model.

 

Tony

[tkay11]

MODEL COMPLETED!

 

OK, there’s lots I haven’t added. Such as: the full and correct rigging for the 3-pounders, perhaps the lids for the gunports, rigging the catheads, deck furniture, flags, horsehoes on the stem, waterline marks, clew lines, leech lines, bunt lines and a whole lot more that all you experienced builders will note immediately.

 

There’s also a whole lot that is messy, imprecise or badly finished (I still groan over the blocks).

 

BUT … I’ve achieved what I set out to do: to dip my hand into the waters of wooden model boat building, obtain a grasp of the various dimensions of the hobby, and pick up some of the various skills needed to continue with the hobby. These have been done with enormous pleasure at every step of the way. In particular I have loved the variety of challenges that had me puzzling for days until I was able to find some way of dealing with them.

 

In fact, and perhaps oddly, I have slightly less pleasure in having arrived at the end than in the enormous pleasure I have had in dealing with particular parts. Something that really did please me, for example, was finding out how to make and use gravers to turn the brass swivel guns.

 

All the same, my wife likes it! I wanted to give the model away to a local library or shop, but she’s demanding we keep it – at least until my next build is over.

 

WHAT I HAVE LEARNT

 

Now that I have finished the Sherbourne, I thought it a good point at which to summarise for the benefit of other newcomers what I have been learning as a result of starting this hobby.

 

Keep A Build Log!

 

Most important, perhaps, is the enormous value of keeping a build log. Doing so forces you to review your progress methodically and at the same time helps you to learn from others as they comment on your progress and guide you where necessary. I also wanted to use my log to help other beginners who may be puzzling over how to manage various stages: my steps may provide a few more options for them to consider.

 

Start with a simple kit of a small ship!

 

The Sherbourne kit really is an excellent kit for a first-time builder such as myself. Should I have wanted to, I could have just proceeded with the kit parts and plans as supplied and finished the whole thing in about three months. However, as it is based on plans in the UK’s National Maritime Museum it tempts those who want to go further and make it more like it might have looked in the 18^th Century.

 

Don’t be scared: take the plunge and build your own parts!

 

A review of all the other far more expert builders who were and are tackling the Sherbourne showed lots of different possibilities, and I quickly realised that every modeller was making a unique creation of their own. I was gradually drawn in to making modifications of my own as I realised that I might be able to make various parts myself when I observed others doing so.

 

It started with the rudder, pintles and gudgeons. Then deck fittings – the hatches, companionway and pumps. Then I realised I might have a bash at making the gratings a bit better. Then I took on the cannon, belaying pins, rope, masts, bowsprit, yards, jeers, windlass, blocks, anchors, swivel guns, boom crutch, hooks, sails, rudder coat, yard horses, foresail horse and, to my great surprise, a Perspex sheet for the waterline stand.

 

All of this came about as a result of the wonderful support from other modellers on the forum, as well as lots of reading, research and visits to museums to inspect contemporary models.

 

Skills that come your way when you try

 

Of the many skills I have been picking up, those that pleased me most have included:

 

* Accurate sawing with a table saw

* Using a Proxxon mini-drill and converting it to use as a wood mill

* Turning with a wood lathe (masts, spars, ebony cannon)

* Using a metal lathe to turn brass swivel guns (a Taig/Peatol) and making gravers to do so

* The value of a disc sander

* Silver soldering with a really basic butane torch

* Blackening brass

* Understanding ship plans

* The value of a software CAD programme (TurboCAD) to trace plans and draw up my own to make particular parts (e.g. cannon)

* Making my own stains for rigging and wood

* Sharpening and honing

* Cutting and welding Perspex sheet and rod.

 

Don’t be worried that at the end of it all your skills are not as good as others!

 

Of course my ability with these skills is nowhere near as good as very many other modellers on this and other fora, but the point of my drawing up this list is to point out to those who are starting a wooden ship kit for the very first time that you may well be surprised at how rapidly you can take on skills which at first seem impossible.

 

Even more: by taking on some or all of the new challenges you discover how deeply and broadly rewarding this hobby is in maintaining and generating learning, and in figuring out how to overcome new challenges. It’s far better than computer gaming (in my opinion)! Better still: the process of learning continues endlessly, no matter how high your skill set is!

 

So it’s with the wonderful understanding that I’ll be learning a great deal more, and encountering a whole new range of challenges, that I’m now organising myself to start on a new level – how to make frames with the Triton cross-section that is so generously supported in this forum.

 

 

 

 

Tony

[Blue Ensign]

Great project Tony, those swivels and anchors look excellent.

 

Interesting about your wife liking her, mine too likes my smaller models of a  revenue cutter and  Pickle and is more than happy to have them displayed. I sometimes think scale in the domestic setting has a lot to do with it.

 

Well done on a fine model and very useful build log.

 

B.E.

[tkay11]

Thanks a lot, B.E.! My wife hasn't anything to compare it to, but definitely the small size is a plus since it's going into a bookcase.

 

Tony

[Mirabell61]

great looking Cutter under sail Tony !

 

congrats to this fine model

 

good idea with the sealevel, in all well done    

 

Nils

[tkay11]

Thanks, Nils. It's really great when experienced modellers as yourself who produce beautiful and finely crafted work give me such comments.

 

Tony

[Jack12477]

Very nice model, Tony. Well done ! And thanks for the excellent build log to reference. Great job all around.

[cog]

A strong finish, Tony. Have loved your build from the beginning. Some great tutorials too. Thanks for sharing

 

Cheers

[donrobinson]

A great looking ship and some fantastic workmanship

[overdale]

Nice work Tony. A very fine model.

 

Dan.

[GuntherMT]

Nice job Tony.

[flyer]

Congratulations on an excellent Model. I especially also like that stand.

And now the mother of all questions: What's next?

 

cheers

peter

[tkay11]

Thanks a lot, everyone, for the likes and comments. I can now feel I've made a contribution on the forum after the learning I've had from you all.

 

Peter: Next is the Triton cross-section which I'm planning, having started the keel parts and obtained the plans. Glad you like the stand!

 

Dirk: You've been a huge inspiration to me with your own Sherbourne and other builds, so your kind words are very much appreciated.

 

Tony

[Gregor]

Congratulations and many thanks, Tony - I couldn't agree more with your conclusion. Every Sherbourne builder will make his very own version, learn a lot in the process and will be all the richer for all the valuable discussions with his fellows.

As you were one of the motivators, back on MSW1, for me to pick up a Sherbourne kit, I very much enjoyed following your log here, and the discussions we had. I always admired your drive to learn every aspect of model making, and do everything by yourself. And not only that: By explaining how you achieved your results (and not hiding your errors) you have shown that a beginner can build a very beautiful model that will get a place of honour in his home.

I wish you much pleasure with your next project.

All the best,

Gregor

[tkay11]

Thanks for such a nice note, Gregor. It was really great how you, Dirk and Kester shepherded and guided me through the various stages. I learnt a lot also from the various discussions you had between yourselves about the finer points of historical interest.

 

I had no idea at all that I had been a motivator for you to build the Sherbourne!

 

Tony

[Andrea Rossato]

On 2/17/2013 at 9:01 PM, tkay11 said:

Whilst still thinking about the carriages, and being unsatisfied with the first attempt, I thought forward to the need for making breeching and other rope for the cannon as well as the anchors. So I decided to make a vertical ropewalk using the basic design shown in Ken’s (BRGreen)  posting (which is now lost unless he re-posts it!).

 

The only differences in my ropewalk were

 

1. using an old 35mm film canister to house the reversing switch;

 

2. keeping the old head of the shaver and screwing it direct to the faceplate so that it would be very easy to pull the shaver off the machine.

 

3. keeping the back of the shaver on and drilling holes for the wires from the power source and to the motor.

 

I soon found out that the fishing swivel I was using was useless, so bought a ball-bearing swivel which improved rope-making considerably. I also found that the weight I had to use was far less than first expected. 10gm seemed to do the trick for the thread I was using.

 

The breeching rope should be 4.25” circumference. This translates to 0.54mm diameter at scale. I achieved this using some old thread of my mothers. However, I have so far only been able to make left-handed thread from the right-handed thread that I have. I know I should be able to unwind the right-handed thread in order to make right-handed rope, but so far I have failed to manage it.

 

Tony

Wow!