Frigate Essex by Rafine - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Kitbashed

[Sjors]

Eyebolts, rings and door are looking great !

 

One question.....why do you cut picture number 4?

De rest is vanish ????????

Or may we not see it....  

 

[amateur]

Hi Sjors,

 

A ship is symmetrical, so you know what's there

 

Jan

[samueljr]

Bob,

 

Ring bolts look sharp.  Can you elaborate on the process you used with the Birchwood Casey Brass Black?

 

I've never had much success with blackening. 

 

Sam

[rafine]

Thanks to all for the comments and the "likes". 

 

Sam, I never had much luck with it either, but this stuff just seems to work easily. I did nothing complicated --no cleaning, etching etc. I poured a very small amount in a lid, dropped a bunch of parts into it  for about a minute or so, took them out and put them in a lid of tap water for another minute or two and then took them out and let them dry on a paper towel for a day. I changed the Brass Black whenever it got too dark to see the parts. Thats it. I guess we'll see what happens over time.

 

Bob

[samueljr]

Bob,

 

Are you (did you) seal the parts at all?  Was the solution 100% or was it cut?

 

Whenever I would blacked it would just seem to rub off regardless of solution strength, time or prep.............

 

Thanks Bob

[Moonbug]

Bob, I've had some success hitting blackened parts with a little bit of spray poly, but overall blackening has been a tough gig for me as well.

 

-Bug

[gjdale]

I've used pretty much the same method for blackening as Bob described, although I do thoroughly clean the parts first using firstly white vinegar, and then acetone. Might be overkill but it works. I also use the solution uncut (100%). Rinsing thoroughly in water (I use distilled water) afterwards is very important to halt the chemical reaction. I've previously had all sorts of problems with chemical blackening, but since I switched to the Casey Birchwood product after a recommendation from Danny Vadas, I've had no problems at all. And the best thing about chemical blackening........there is no waiting for the paint to dry!

[rafine]

Like Grant, I used the solution uncut. I haven't used a sealer afterward and so far there has been no problem. My guess is that if you were doing larger surfaces, such as cannon barrels, some rubbing down after the rinsing might be needed and maybe a sealer.

 

Bob

[historyguysteve]

Hope you don't mind me commenting. I've been on deployment and got back, looked at your build and I'm inspired. I have Essex in my stash - I'll get it out and maybe get started. I saw your coppering and thought well, maybe I was not so crazy after all. I tried the technique you described on Sea Witch some time back. A consideration on cutting the sheen. All copper is covered with a chemical to keep it from oxidizing, to dull it there is a really cool method you might try. After the ship is coppered gently go over it with fine steel wool. "Sand" fore and aft just a few passes. In a week the copper will start to turn brown like an old copper penny and in a few months (depending on local conditions) it will start getting the least bit of verdigris. The effect is subtle but really amazing.

   just a thought

   great job and spectacular craftsmanship

   Steve

[cookster]

Bob, your coppering job looks great! I'm glad someone took the plunge and tried using full lengths of tape, instead of all those single plates.  You proved it can be done and looks awesome!

 

Now, can I trouble you for what brand and where you bought your eyebolts and ringbolts? 

 

Thanks and great job!

[rafine]

Thanks Steve for your kind words and suggestions. With regard to the Essex in your stash, if you haven't been following the problems with the kit, I would wait until the kit modifications are done and replacement parts issued by ME (see the thread by Sam Cassano in the "Wood ship model questions and reviews" section of this site).

 

Bob

[rafine]

Thanks so much Wes. I thought it was worth a try.

 

The eyebolts and rings are both from Model Expo, bought on-line. They are the smallest available sizes. I'm surprised you don't have at least the eyebolts in the Conny kit.

 

Bob

[NMBROOK]

Great work Bob.Very very nice representation of the coppering.I have not been impressed by my attempts at blackening and will give the Birchwood Casey product a go.The Carrs product just rubs off and is not even in coverage.

 

Kind Regards Nigel

[rafine]

Thanks Nigel. Your comments are appreciated.

 

Try the Birchwood Casey. I like it so far, although I haven't tried it on any large surfaces yet.

 

Bob

[rafine]

Practice may not make perfect, but it does make quicker, easier and, hopefully, better. The second side of the copper is done and I like it better. Now if I had a third side to do......... 

 

The last photo shows the copper with a coat of Floquil Flat Finish brushed on. Although it still looks quite shiny and bright, it is less so than before the flat finish was applied. Looking at my Syren of a few years back, which was finished comparably, I  expect a nice mellowing of the copper on Essex as well.

 

After finishing the copper I decided to move the model from a cradle to a brass pin mount, which is how it will be permanently mounted after completion. This involved using epoxy to install pieces of brass rod into holes drilled through the keel and slide these into brass tubing installed in a base. This will avoid contact with copper as much as possible during future construction, but still permit removal of the model, if necessary.

 

Next up will be some items that I've already done some work on, the rudder and the gun deck hatches. Other deck items will also be done after that.

 

Bob

Edited March 29, 2014 by rafine

[GaryKap]

Hi Bob -

 

I like your idea of a brass pin mount.  Elegant in its simplicity!  And your workmanship on the model is simply amazing.

Keep up the good work...and keep the pictures coming.

 

<<Gary>>

[Moonbug]

Really nice work. I'm still debating whether to copper the next build or leave the wood. Your work makes a great argument for the copper.

 

- Bug

[Sjors]

Hi Bob,

 

That copper looks "shiny"...

But great job.

One point of advice...when you take a picture in the evening ( like what you have done now I think ) it's better to use a tripod.

Or a stack of books.

The first two pictures are out of balance.

And that's a shame for the work you have done.

 

[rafine]

Thanks Gary, Bug and Sjors and the "likes". 

 

Gary, the pin mount is just one of the many good ideas that I have picked up on MSW.

 

Sjors, I'm afraid that photography is not my strong suit and the copper really did me in for the pictures. 

 

Bob

[samueljr]

Bob,

 

Sharp all the way. Love the term "mellow" to describe the cooper after dull coat - perfect.

 

How are you finding the balance of the hull on just the posts?

 

Sam

[rafine]

Thanks Sam. I've used the brass rods on my last few builds and have been very happy with them, both during construction and as permanent mounts. No balance issues.

 

Bob

[rafine]

First an update and then some questions.

 

The update: I 've now added the hatches, ladders and shot racks on the gun deck. The coamings were made from boxwood strip, the gratings are the laser cut pieces from the kit, the shot racks are boxwood strip and the ladders down to the lower deck are made from boxwood strip. The gratings were stained with golden oak stain and all of the pieces were finished with Wipe-on Poly. The "cannon balls" provided in the kit seemed much too large, so I used smaller ones that I had on hand. Predictably, after installing these pieces the work previously done on the lower deck sections pretty much disappeared.

 

Now for the questions:

 

(1) I'm going to add two cushioned benches in the great cabin as shown in AOTS. Does anyone have an idea as to what color the cushions would be?

 

(2) The kit shows only one partition on the gun deck. AOTS shows three, with the great cabin partition and a partition for the captains bed space aft of the one in the kit. I'm assuming that these are correct, but there is nothing to show their appearance. Would they be simple board construction, or paneled construction on one or both sides?

 

(3) There are cannon in both the great cabin and the captains bed space.Should these be shown any differently than the other cannon on that deck?

 

I would be appreciative of any help you can provide.

 

Bob 

Edited March 29, 2014 by rafine

[augie]

Nice work on the hatches/coamings/ladders and racks.  Don't worry about all the work below the main deck --- we know it's there.

 

Looking forward to the cabin interior.

[samueljr]

Bob,

 

Great job on everything! What size cannon balls came with your kit? I know that the size I used on the proto-type are no longer available. I don't know what they've been replaced by.

 

As far as the cabin panels short of having some type of directive or builder's indent/note on appearance I'd be comfortable with paneled for both on both sides. It's at least plausible that the Captain's cabin was paneled.

 

I thought about fitting out the rear of the boat but the detail took the kit in a direction that neither Expo or me wanted it to go. Are you going to go all out as Doris has with her ROYAL CAROLINE?

 

I'm certain you've seen the manifests of materials and stores in the Essex papers for the Great cabin.

 

Sam

[rafine]

Thanks Augie, Sam and the "likes".

 

Sam, the kit cannon balls are about 3/32" (3mm). I'm not sure yet how far I will go with the interior detailing, but there's no way that it will look anything like Doris' work which is unbelievable. As to the Essex papers, I actually have not seen those manifests.

 

Bob

[cookster]

Looking great Bob!  As far as my Conny kit, yes I think she has eyebolts, I was just curious where you got yours for my future scratch efforts.

[Moonbug]

Beautiful work, particularly the ladders - a detail I've always found difficult.

 

-Bug

[NMBROOK]

Excellent work Bob I like the lasercut gratings,they are reminiscent of the 'pierced' gratings found on many admiralty models.I may utilise you 'pin mounts' on my upcoming Mordaunt build.I normally go for brass pedestals but there is a 2.5 deg fall on the keel,odd length pedestals may look a little strange.

 

Kind Regards Nigel

[rafine]

Thanks Wes, Bug and Nigel for the nice comments and continuing interest.

 

Bob

[rafine]

A small but fun item accomplished. I made and installed the remaining cabinetry at the stern in the Great Cabin. This consisted of the rudder head housing and two benches. They were made from boxwood sheet and strip and finished with Wipe-on Poly. The "cushions" on the benches are boxwood, shaped and then painted a maroon color. The cabinet knobs are the smallest nails that I had on hand. The penny in the first photo gives an idea of the size of these pieces.

 

Bob