Young America 1853 by EdT - FINISHED - extreme clipper

[EdT]

I agree with you, Micheal.  At 1: 24 you could use .032" by say 3/16" strip and that would look great with the straps recessed.  The rivets would look good as well.

 

Ed

[mitchel]

Hi guys

I posted this question earlier but it didn't show up on the forum, so if this post is posted twice please accept my apologies..

 

Anyway, here's my post...

 

This is a beginners question but one that has always intrigued me. How do you blacken copper when the parts are already on the model?

 

Ed you showed us the copper bolts going through the frames and then said you used liver of sulphate to blacken them. I have seen this blackening done on lots of other items too like the strapping around blocks. How come the wood doesn't discolour? 

This is probably a daft question but I just had to ask.

 

I looked at youtube but didn't see a video on it.

Edited February 13, 2014 by mitchel

[the learner]

Ed, just a thought do yo feel that you need to install all the strapping or just a small amount to show how it was accomplished on the real construction?

 

It looks fantastic though!

 

Mitchel, read through Ed's post on the HMS Naiad for yoour answer

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/232-hms-naiad-by-edt-160-frigate-38-1797/?hl=naiad

 

Guy

Edited February 14, 2014 by the learner

[EdT]

Mitchell, this is a very good question.  I have posted on this earlier, but do not mind elaborating.  I have thought a lot about this because when I first started using liver of sulfur I was concerned about staining the wood or having stains suddenly appear later.  I started using it after finding that is is used in jewelrymaking - but jewelers do not often use wood..

 

Liver of sulfur is largely potassium sulfide along with some other similar potassium sulfur salts.  When dissolved in water it immediately hydrolyzes into free sulfur ions in solution.  These attack the copper, forming I presume, black copper sulfide on the copper surface. The active hydrolized solution lasts only a few seconds before it begins to neutralize to potassium hydroxide, giving off the sulfur as gaseous hydrogen sulfide in the process. (you will smell traces of it).  The hydrolyzed solution does not attack wood and seems to completely neutralize before it dries - leaving no trace - even when not washed off. The leftover solution turns white and when dry leaves a neutral white powder.  Anyway, this is my amateur chemist theory.  If there are any real inorganic chemists out there, please comment.

 

For the above reasons, the liver of sulfur solution must be used immediately.  Once it begins to neutralize its effect on the copper is quickly reduced to zero.  I make only a tiny amount of solution - usually just a few drops of water.  This also minimizes the H2S odor.

 

The blue blackening solutions work differently.  I believe they are solutions of a selenium salt which reacts with the metal to form a blue/black solution that dries on the metal.  Unfortunatey, as salts, they cannot be neutralized, only diluted through washing.  The residual salts and the blue/black solution formed in contact with the metal will stain adjoining wood.  I am convinced that a further problem is that the salts are hard to wash out of tiny crevices in silver soldered joints and over time may continue to react with the solder and form additional unwanted white/light deposits on the work - or actually cause the black to flake off.   I also suspect that the salts react with the tin or zinc in brass at the surfaces and if the process has to be repeated several times it no longer works - perhaps because the tin or zinc at the surface is depleted.  This is all hypothesis based on observations. 

 

Liver of sulfur works on copper and copper/phosphourus silver solder, but not on brass.  That is why I use copper whenever I can. 

 

Thank you, Guy.  I really did feel that it was either all or nothing with this.  Actually, as with most things, its getting easier and the results are better after some practice over the past day or so.

 

Now, off to blow more snow.

 

Ed

Edited February 14, 2014 by EdT

[mitchel]

Guy, thank you for the link.

 

Ed, a thorough explanation well explained. Interestingly enough I typed in 'liver of sulfer' in youtube and in the video a lady uses it in gel form. She says it stays stable longer. The video is quite educational.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b160j_DXgRw

Edited February 15, 2014 by mitchel

[dgbot]

Thanks for the video.  Nice and easy way to do the job.

David B

[EdT]

I am familiar with the video.  It is very good.  I do use the gel.  However, whether using the gel or the chips, the solution once made up is about the same life.  My can of chips has been around for a few years and it still works.  The chips are in a plastic bag in a half-pint paint can which I keep tightly sealed.  I use the two types interchangeably with equal results.  I do not make up as much solution as she uses in the video - just a few drops unless I want to dip something.  I usually brush it on the small metal parts if they are already installed.

 

I usually do not neutralize because in most cases I want it to go all the way to black, but I do usually rinse it off - a little baking soda in the rinse would probably be a good idea.

 

I have not been able to get it to blacken brass.  Perhaps adding some ammonia would help.

 

Ed

[SJSoane]

 

Hi Ed,

 

It is looking great. Fun to see construction at the height of the shipbuilding art.

 

I did not have success using a paper cutter for cutting metal. The metal shifted away from the cutting edge. Did you clamp or tape down the sheet of metal while doing this?

 

Mark

[dgbot]

Before I bought my Preac table saw I would clamp  my brass down to a piece of lamitated board and score it several times with a utilty knife.  After I bought the Preac I would sandwich it between two thin pieces of would anc just cut it down using a slittlng blade.  You can di the same thing if you have the Byrnes saw with a slittlne blade.

David B

[EdT]

Mark, the paper cutter is not ideal for a few reasons, but it has some advantages also. 

 

It is fast and, there are no rough edges, you can cut length up to 12", thicknesses to /032" or so  and it cuts in a straight line.  The copper straps on Young America are 1/16" wide, .005" thick.When they are sheared off, they curl up.  This is easily fixed by stretching them with  pliers with one end in the vise - as is done with the copper wire before bolting - but not too much or they will lose width and thickness.   

 

I start with a roughly 6" X 12" sheet so I can use the long edge on the cutter fence to get square cuts.  If the table on the cutter is slippery, you might try taping a sheet of paper to it.  To get accurate 1/16" widths I tape an Incra rule to the table against the fence.  The sheet can be advanced in 1/16" increments by eye or using a pin in the Incra indexing holes.  I get several strips per minute - a few more minutes for straightening them.

 

A metal shear would be better.

 

Ed

Edited February 16, 2014 by EdT

[dgbot]

The only drawback to a metal sheer is it is not a perfect cut.  It will get it close enough that you can snap it off. Then you clean up the edge.  Of coarse I am talking about thicker material such as aluminum and steel.  I have no experience with thin copper sheet.

David B

[SJSoane]

Thanks, Ed, I'll try that.

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 44 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting.

 

Work continued on the iron strapping with some breaks to work on other things.  Other things included installing wood members over the strapped areas.  In the first picture a portion of the lower deck clamp is being glued to the frames.

 

 

The forward section of the upper deck clamp has been installed at the top of the strapped area.  As soon as the clamps are removed when the glue has dried, these members are immediately bolted through the frames with copper wire bolts epoxied all the way through the hole, making an extremely strong connection.

 

In the next picture a section of bilge ceiling is being installed.  These heavy members will fill the area up to the lower deck clamp.

 

 

There will also be a few strakes of bilge ceiling below the installed strakes.  The iron strapping will also be extended down to the floor heads.  The next picture shows one of these extensions.  The break in these straps will occur behind frames and will not be visible.

 

The next picture shows additional deck clamp sections installed, including forward sections of the middle deck clamp.

 

 

All these members are epoxy bolted as described above. 

 

Before progressing much further aft with the iron strapping, I wanted to get the aft half-frames bolted securely.  They have been held in place since installation only by the end-grain glue joints.  I did not want to risk breaking these with the hammering of the strap rivets.  Before installing bolts on these frames they needed to be faired.  This is easier before the copper bolts are in place.

 

In the next picture 80-grit sandpaper is being used on the feet of the cant frames to bring them flush with the deadwood.

 

 

In the next picture all of the cant and half frames have been faired at their feet. The cant frames, in their scores, end right at the bearding line line.  However, the half-frames are not installed in scores but bolted directly to the deadwood.  These were not faired to a feather edge at the line but were cut back to about a 3” thickness above the line.  The triangular gap was covered with planking.  It acted as a limber, or drainage channel, for water that would otherwise accumulate between frames and in the joints between the frames and the deadwood.  This feature was evidently not included at the feet of the cant frames. 

 

The next picture shows the feet of the half-frames being squared off above the bearding line.

 

 

There will be more to say later about the path of this water to the pumps.

 

With the model inverted it was a good time to fair the deadwood back to the rabbets in the keel and sternpost.  The next picture shows a shallow gouge being used to rough out the shape above the keel rabbet.

 

 

This can be risky if not done carefully.  In the picture the curl of shaving shows that the gouge is moving parallel to the keel using the pressure of my thumb.  I find that cuts go easier at an angle to the edge, slicing the wood -  and it is never a good idea to cut toward the rabbet.  The gouge is moving in the same direction in the next picture – held as in the last picture with the left hand, in this case pulled gently with the right – always with very light cuts.  Do not attempt this with a dull tool.

 

 

In the next picture a #0 cut riffler is being used to smooth out the gouge marks.  This was followed by 120 then 220-grit paper.

 

 

The last picture shows the feet of the half and cant frames after the sanding.

 

 

 

With the final lines of the frame bottoms established the bolt holes were laid out and drilled.  These are now ready for the bolts.

 

There is a lot more sanding to be done on the lower hull, but this much was sufficient to get the bolts in.  Now for the other side.

 

 Ed

[druxey]

Exemplary as always, Ed!

[Senior ole salt]

An awesome build for sure. Probably better than the real ship.

 

S.os

[Mau]

Outstanding! Each image is a lesson. I am also among those awaiting a new book.

 

Mauricio

[dgbot]

Fantastic,  you have more nerve than I.  Probably a steadier hand as well.  I am learning many things just by watching.

David B

[allanyed]

Ed

Your attention to the smallest detail is what puts you on a different level.  Most builders are not even aware of the details to which you have paid attention, let alone incorporate them into the build. 

Allan

[EdT]

Thanks, everyone.

 

Allan, I owe a lot to the exhaustive research of William Crothers.  Without his book this project could not be done - at least not without years of independent research. 

 

Most of these details are easy to add - once you know about them.  The arrangement of the drainage limbers on these ships can only be understood when you realize that they employed suction pumps, so the suction point could extend all the way to the outer planks without chopping out whole timbers.  This also avoided the need to "pack" the spaces between the floors as was needed with the chain type pumps of the 18th C that could only reach down to the floors.  Very interesting detail - too good to leave out.

 

Ed

[SJSoane]

 

Beautfiul work, Ed, and always a pleasure to see the photos of your building techniques.

 

Mark

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 45 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting continued.

 

American Clipper Historical Note: In 19th Century America, forest resources were plentiful, in fact they seemed limitless.  For these reasons, and due to the immaturity of the American iron industry, ships with wood structures continued to be built throughout the century and into the 20th.  Several domestic species found their way into American-built ships.  White oak, very similar in species to English oak was the primary material used for structural components.  However, the less plentiful but superior species, live oak from forests in the southeastern states, was often specified for critical components.  It was almost 50% stronger than white oak and the shape of the growth lent itself to knees and curved members.  Joshua Humphreys specified live oak for the original American 44-gun frigates and crews from the northern shipyards went south to harvest the requirements.  Another southern species that was widely used in American ships was hard pine, also known as longleaf pine.  This plentiful timber had 90% of the strength of white oak and was roughly the same weight.  Hard pine was used for beams, planking and knees.  White pine, the species most associated with the term “pine,” was lighter, softer and less strong – only about 50% in strength compared to white oak.  It was often used in planking weather decks.  Other species of pine – pitch pine, yellow pine, red pine – were also used.  Another important species was black locust.  Its hardness, straightness and strength – 35% stronger than white oak  - found wide use for treenails and often for pillars.  Various other structural woods were used, but these were the primary species.

 

Young America’s structure was largely white oak – most frames, central sections of the keel and keelson, stem, stern posts, hanging knees.  But it is very probable that a significant number of important members were of live oak – parts of keel and keelson, keelson riders, hooks, some frame timbers.  Hard pine was used for beams, inboard and outboard planking, waterways, deck clamps, binding strakes, lower deck  planking and deadwood.  Lodging knees would have been pitch pine.  Exposed decks were white pine.  Pillars and treenails were locust.  Other decorative works were of other species and will be described later.

 

For the model, I an using Swiss pear wherever oak – white or live – was used.  Hard and pitch pine members will be Castelo.  Weather decks may be holly – not decided.  Most of the work covered so far has been in pear, but Castelo has been evident in the last few posts in the bilge ceiling and deck clamp construction.

 

 

Work described in the last part continued.  In the first picture the deadwood near the sternpost is being smoothed with a #0 cut Grobet riffler after paring with gouges. 

 

 

When the fairing of the aft part of the lower hull was finished, the bolts securing the aft half and cant frames were installed.  The next picture shows this in progress.

 

 

Holes were drilled deep into the keelson/deadwood.  Copper wire dipped in epoxy was then inserted and moved in and out to distribute the glue internally.  The wire was then clipped off as shown.  The stains on the wood in the picture are  from isopropanol used to wash off excess epoxy and has not yet dried.  The heads of the bolts will be sanded off flush and blackened just before the final wood finish is applied.  They were iron.

 

The next picture shows the lower hull after this bolting.  Bolts will be much more visible when black.

 

 

Finish sanding and polishing of these areas will be done later.  The next picture shows the stern framing from directly aft.

 

 

Work inside the hull on the strapping, deck clamps and bilge ceiling continued.  In the next picture a strake is being glued on the upper side of the band.  Strapping below the bilge ceiling has been added.

 

 

One of the lower strakes is being glued in the next picture. 

 

 

After the glue has dried, all of these strakes are bolted through every frame with epoxy at both ends of each bolt.  These bolts, also iron, will be blackened later.

 

This internal work is going to take some time.  I switch between iron strapping and ceiling planks when I can - to battle the tedium of repetitive work – not my strong suit.

 

 

 Ed

Edited February 20, 2014 by EdT

[dgbot]

Thanks for the history lesson.  And for the great photos.

David B

[dvm27]

Lovely work, Ed.  Are you strapping both sides? Talk about repetitive work!

[Mirabell61]

Wonderful work Ed,

 

that iron strapping is an interesting Feature I never saw documented before, has that realy been done on the actual ship? it must have provided immense strength to the hull at all times, not only in battle.

 

Your joining work is also very clean acurate and impressive, nice to look at

 

Nils

[EdT]

Thank you all for the comments and the "likes".

 

Yes, Greg, both sides.  The port side will be left in open frame a la Naiad.  The starboard side will be planked down a bit below the waterline.  I am considering leaving some rectangular viewports below the middle deck down to the floorheads on the port side.  So the strapping will be visible in unplanked areas through those openings and from the outside on all unplanked areas.  I don't like repetition but the biggest problem with the strapping work is leaning over the hull.

 

Nils, a number of American clippers including Young America were strapped so it is authentic.  The bracing was one of many anti-hogging measures used in these ships, which because of their great length and sharp lines was a considerable problem.  This was , of course, a merchant ship, so battle was not an issue - except perhaps for pirates.  I expect YA could outrun most of those without difficulty.

 

Ed

Edited February 20, 2014 by EdT

[druxey]

YA could probably have run the pirates down and sliced them in two with that sharp entry! Your idea of cutaways on the port side is a nice one. I suppose the style and size of them will take some working out.

[EdT]

Being at "the cutting edge" at 20 knots would certainly do in any nefarious plans of pirates. Of course pirates would have to place themselves directly in the path. I don't think these focused clipper captains would be inclined to alter course - a the cost of a minute or two.

 

I am giving the viewports quite a lot of thought and the plan is still evolving. I am thinking that they would extend from he middle deck clamps down to the floor heads on the unplanked port side - leaving the lower deck framing and clamps intact. Perhaps three frames pairs on either side of the partners of each mast would be removed. I need to decide this soon before I start ceiling planking and strapping on that side. They may need to be wider,but I do not want to weaken he hull too much. Hwever, the epoxy bolting of the bilge ceiling and deck clamps plus inboard planking above the middle deck should make th hull quite strong.

 

Ed

Edited February 22, 2014 by EdT

[EdT]

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 46 –Inboard structural members continued

 

Work on the starboard side, inside of the hull, continued.  The iron strapping on that side is complete, except for a bit of repair work.  The first picture shows the use of an Incra rule taped to the paper cutter to assist in cutting the straps to accurate widths.

 

 

The sheet is first squared up on the cutter and then advanced 1/16” after each cut.  The indexing holes on the rule could be used, but I found this unnecessary and rely on my eye.

 

Below is a picture of strips after slitting on the cutter.

 

 

Fortunately, these straighten out easily and quickly when held in a vise and pulled with pliers.  After that they are blackened with LOS before installing.  They are held in place with copper “riveted bolts” made from 22-gauge copper wire.  These are more like nails, being pushed into a tight hole, then clipped off, then peened over with a small hammer – as shown below.

 

 

Once the strapping was finished, the deck clamps on this side could be installed back to the stern.  The next picture shows a scarph joint being marked on the next piece. 

 

 

 

Initially I fitted the next of these joints on the bench, but identifying them and keeping track became more trouble than doing it in situ – with equivalent results.

 

The next picture shows the right angle Dremel drill boring holes for the through bolts.

 

 

I don’t use this tool much.  It is large and has a good kick when starting, but it is indispensable for drilling “normal” bolt holes down in the hull.  I use it with a Foredom foot pedal speed control, plus the speed contol on the tool to keep the speeds low and to avoid it jumping out of the center-mark.

 

 

The 22-gauge copper wire used for the bolts is a sliding fit in the holes.  An end is dipped in epoxy and pushed through the holes.  The outside is then touched with epoxy and the wire pulled back in.  These bolts are never coming out.  They will be sanded off flush and those that are visible will be blackened later.  Many on this side will be covered with planking.

 

Fastening the deck clamps is pretty easy work, but the 8 x 8 ceiling members at the turn of the bilge are another matter.  The curve of the hull where they are placed can be seen in the next picture.

 

 

These require some serious clamping and long waits for the glue to set.  I usually bolt them in place with the epoxy wherever possible before removing the clamps.

 

I am being extra cautious – as well as authentic – in the bolting through every frame because of the copper plates between the frames and the inboard members.  I don’t trust the glue alone on these joints.  The hull is now becoming extremely rigid.

 

The last picture shows a strake of bilge ceiling being attached toward the stern – intersecting with the lower deck clamp.

 

 

This picture also shows the strapping toward the stern.  Not too much of it is damaged.  I straighten our any problems as each wood member is added.  Most of the strapping on this side will only be visible from outside the hull – through the frames.

 

And so it goes…

 

 Ed

[KennyH78]

The detail on this build is impressive. Maybe some day, I can have a steady enough hand and the patience to do all of that. I applauded your work at each update!

 

Kenny

[NenadM]

A lot to learn here, Ed. Just WOW ! Your level is so high, so any other comment would be innapropriate

Edited February 24, 2014 by Nenad M