HMS Lion by Ian_Grant - 1/150 - RADIO - RESTORATION - WW1 Battlecruiser

[ddp]

Kevin, what horsepower?

[Kevin-the-lubber]

1 minute ago, ddp said:

Kevin, what horsepower?

You've already gone way beyond my knowledge but google tells me 1/3 to 1/2 would be fine. This thing won't be turning heavy loads, probably about 1 kilo or thereabouts.

[Ian_Grant]

 

3 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

That's really not bad at all for FDM printing, is it. I'd also chop off the funnels and do them separately - you can probably do that in the slicer.

 

Ian, can I pick your brains a little about motors, as you seem to know a sight more than me about these. I'm making various simple machines for other arty projects and one of these is a roller machine, that is quite similar to a rock tumbler. I could just buy a rock tumbler but I like solving puzzles and making stuff, besides which I can make everything apart from the motor. I've used a small, cheap, 220V  synchronous 5 rpm motor for proof of concept, it does the job but gets very hot after 30 mins continuous use. I need something that can run for hours, maybe even days. It also reverses direction at will, there must be some kind of internal counter that determines that this time it'll be clockwise, next time anti. Ideally I'd have control over that and even more ideally, I'd be able to control the speed via electronics rather than gears. Any suggestions, pointers?

Hi Kevin;  Do have happen to have specs/model number for your motor?  If it's getting hot I suspect it lacks the horsepower to tumble pounds of rocks.

Edited Monday at 08:02 PM by Ian_Grant

[Ian_Grant]

Kevin, I've forgotten most of what I learned (and all of what I didn't understand!) in second year electric machines class. I just took a look around on this topic and you're really opening a can of worms. I never realized how expensive motors can be. As you say, for a tumbler the word on the street says 1/3hp to 1/2hp to provide the torque to turn a barrel with (xx?) pounds of rocks in it. OK I thought, let's look for some. Brand new ones are several hundred dollars, which I guess is why you asked the question. There are many tumbling hobbyists recommending pulling an old motor out of a washing machine; seemingly a decent motor outlasts the washer.

 

Apparently the "National Geographic" tumblers, which are pretty economical, are economical because the motors they use cannot cut the mustard in tumbling applications and soon burn out.

 

Sorry I can't recommend a motor; perhaps ddp has his eye on something suitable?

[ddp]

Kevin, is it the motor getting hot, the speed control or both?

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Thanks both, I just thought I'd ask on the off-chance that you would know off the top of your head, but I don't want to hijack your log! 

[Ian_Grant]

6 hours ago, Kevin-the-lubber said:

That's really not bad at all for FDM printing, is it. I'd also chop off the funnels and do them separately - you can probably do that in the slicer.

Actually on closer inspection the vents and funnel are pretty good, once you cut off the little "filament hairs" that the head spun between them while flitting around.

 

12 hours ago, NavyShooter said:

And, if you're looking for some minimally detailed ship's launches, here's a site that may help:  (you may have to sign up for this forum to access them though)

 

RN Steam Launches | R/C Warship Combat

 

Ship's boats and liferafts | R/C Warship Combat

 

The launch seems detailed enough for me at this scale; I don't plan to add railings. I don't think....

[NavyShooter]

Looking at your results with those, I'll suggest trying a 0.25mm nozzle with your FDM and slow down your printing speed a bit - you'll end up with a finer bit of detail, and a nicer finish.  The funnel and vents may turn out OK!

 

[Ian_Grant]

Found this museum steam launch; gives a nice colour scheme to use. I also like the Hotchkiss gun, the mount for which is molded into the printed boat. I wondered what it was for........

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

6 hours ago, Ian_Grant said:

once you cut off the little "filament hairs"

I zap these with my soldering blowtorch, but that said, I can’t remember the last hairy print I had. I used to be plagued by that but think the filament heater solved that problem. 

[NavyShooter]

Suggestion - if you go with a Hobbywing 1080 ESC, you can adjust the internal frequency that they operate at - when operated at lower frequencies, they 'whine' like most ESCs do.  If you adjust the Freq to the higher end, the ESC whine effectively disappears.

 

I've got a video somewhere about doing that...let me dig up a link.

I don't know if your 1060's are able to be programmed the same way.

 

[NavyShooter]

Here's a video that talks about it a bit.  Option 13 for the PWM frequency will set it to higher frequencies - ideally go with the 16KhZ which is almost beyond the audible range, and makes it effectively silent!

 

 

 

[Ian_Grant]

No, the 1060 doesn't have complex programming like the 1080; it just has two simple jumpers one of which selects "driving " mode (brake/no brake etc; for boats we select simply Fwd/Rvrs),  the other of which selects battery type. I asked tech support and they told me for lead-acid just set the jumper to NiMH mode. I must say this simplicity appeals. Also, the 1080 is $25 more, $50 more for a pair to run my pair of motors.

 

I downloaded the 1080 user manual; programming is done via a single push button and an indicator LED which blinks different numbers of times depending on where you are in the programming flowchart and what you have selected. From my experience trying to program "Cateye" bicycle computers in a similar low-tech programming approach, this might be ok or it might be an exercise in frustration. They do mention, though, that selecting a higher PWM frequency will increase ESC heating since it is "on" more often.

 

I know what you're saying about the whine, though. I will ask the club members who recommended the 1060 if they have this problem. I'm still inclined toward the 1060 but hope I won't regret it.

 

In related news, my 12V motors arrived today!  I need a 12V battery then I could buy a pair of ESCs at the local shop (they have both the 1060 and 1080) and try them out. All new to me!

 

For reference, here is a link to the 1080 user manual. There are 15 programmable functions.

 

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0109/9702/files/Manual_QUICRUN_WP-1080_G2-Brushed.pdf?v=1670441020

Edited 4 hours ago by Ian_Grant