HMS Harpy 1796 by Blue Ensign – Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale

Glenn-UK · January 23

Thanks for the explanation Maurice.

Blue Ensign · January 24

Post 24

Completing the first band.

My first action is to address the question of increasing sny.

I formed a plank in the normal way including the edge bend, and used this to shape a spiled version cut from 0.8mm fret.

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The two shapes.

The lower one is the spiled plank which has a less concave upper line reducing the upward curve on the next strake to be fitted.

I have now completed the first band.

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At the stern either stealers or planks that broaden out from the mid ships point will be required.

I may use a combination of both as I have broader strips of Pearwood. It is not a critical decision as I fancy coppering this hull, after completing two bare plank hulls.

It has been some 14 years since I last coppered a hull (Pegasus) and it will keep me busy and extend the build time.

B.E.

24/01/2025

SaltyScot · January 24

The symmetry on that hull is a beautiful thing to look at. Nicely done!

Blue Ensign · January 26

Post 25

The Lower Band.

This is the remaining planking down to the keel.

I have mostly used ca for plank fixing but I use Roket odourless from Deluxe Materials, a little more expensive than the basic sort but there is none of the breathing issues.

Used on a slightly dampened plank it is very effective.

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I first fitted planks in continuation of the upper band down to the termination of the Square tuck. This comprised two strakes.

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The rabbet for the hull timbers at the stem, formed by the outer stem pattern, works very well on Harpy. A great asset for bow planking, and providing a very neat finish.

I did use a micro chisel to pare down the first planking layer where required, to allow a better fit. It also helped to thin down slightly the Pear plank where it entered the rabbet.

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I now need to re-mark the planking runs for the final push.

B.E.

26/01/2025

SaltyScot · January 26

Nice, methodical work. The results speak for themselves.

glbarlow · January 28

Not sure if it applies; I learned planking Cheerful and Winchelsea that I edge bent the bow edge of the plank down in order for the to lay up on center at the stem. It seemed counterintuitive but it worked. Maybe what you’re already doing…

Blue Ensign · January 30

Thanks Guys for the interest and likes.

@ Glenn - yes I use edge bending, but when it becomes excessive it creates the less than appealing exaggerated sny effect,.

Post 26

Completing the Pear planking.

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Each station has been re-marked on the hull, hopefully for the last time, but I don’t discount that a little tweaking may still be required.

I begin with the strake above the keel.

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This strake runs from 2mm at the bow, 4mm at Midships, increasing to 5mm at the sternpost.

I am now working alternatively from keel up and wale down.

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It is easier to deal with the aftermost section of a strake as a separate plank.

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Three strakes to go.

It can be seen in this shot that the space at the stern is gradually equalising strake upon strake as I close the gap.

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Two strakes to go.

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One strake to go…

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I did not find it necessary to use stealers at the stern, as I have a selection of planking strips of various widths.

In the absence of these, the kit Pear sheets that contain the laser cut parts, provide a good source of plank making material suitable for spiling wider sections at the stern.

The final strake which sits below the round of the hull lacks uniformity which is why it is placed where it is.

Of necessity the planks are spiled, an exercise I quite enjoy; getting them to fit neatly into the given space I find quite relaxing.

The strakes are again divided into three planks per strake which makes things easier.

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All done!

Overall, I’m fairly happy with the planking even in its unsanded state.

Moving on to cleaning up.

B.E.

30/01/2025

SaltyScot · January 30

The symmetry of that planking in the one image taken at the stern looking back is fantastic. Compliments on a fine job there.

Moonbug · January 30

Hey B.E.

Beautiful planking job. I love Pear wood, so my first thought was that it'd be a shame to cover it with copper. Then, I started thinking about how striking it would be with the copper and pear, and how complimentary those colors will be together. As always, looking forward to seeing your work.

CiscoH · January 30

I think it took me 3 months to plank my hull. Amazing job Mr Ensign it looks fantastic

Jim Lad · January 30

A very nice planking job.

John

Blue Ensign · January 31

Thank you Mark, Bug, Cisco, and John for your appreciation.

@ - Cisco, I am an admirer of your AVS build, and those three months were well spent, and it shows. Your planking is simply beautiful, makes mine look very average.

Post 27

Final sanding was done using various grade papers, primarily 320 al.oxide. It didn’t take long to achieve a smooth and even surface.

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I think she has scrubbed up quite well.

I now return to the Square tuck.

B.E.

31/01/2025

SaltyScot · January 31

1 hour ago, Blue Ensign said:

I think she has scrubbed up quite well.

I think that is the understatement of the month there sir She looks fantastic!

Blue Ensign · February 1

Post 28

The Square Tuck

I had played around with framing the Square Tuck earlier in the build.

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Neat as it is I was trying to avoid the exposed end grain planking of the kit arrangement and add a sort of faux framing to better represent a more authentic look.

This is what I have come up with.

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I had made the ‘frames’ earlier.

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The original laser cut boarding below the framing.

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The boarding fitted between the frames consist of eight boards of decreasing length which would prove tricky to fit individually.

I opted to board over a template card pattern off-model and fit as a single unit.

Still involved a careful trim and dry fit by degrees.

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The boarding is then sanded flush with the frames.

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B.E.

01/02/2025

Glenn-UK · February 1

This is something I might add to mine as your Square Tuck looks great.

ECK · February 1

Agree, giving me good ideas as well.

davyboy · February 1

Looks very nice indeed Maurice,certainly a great improvement.

Dave :dancetl6:

SaltyScot · February 1

Good idea and well implemented. it looks great!

Richard44 · February 1

I too will have a think about it.

Blue Ensign · February 2

Post 29

Preparing to Copper the Hull.

I have decided to copper the hull, the first since my Pegasus build, way back in 2011.

At this point in the build the kit instructions suggest moving onto progressing the fitting of the deck, and inner bulwarks before coppering the hull.

My inclination is to copper the hull before I do any more internal fitting which may be scuffed or damaged with the hull inverted.

Having dodged doing waterlines by leaving the hulls of Sphinx and Indefatigable varnished wood, I must attend to this first.

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Not one of my favourite jobs and it usually takes several goes to get a line I am happy with.

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I may still tweak the line at the bow a fraction, as I recall the words of Dr C.N. Longridge in relation to coppering Victory.

If you lay your copper strakes strictly up to the line you will be very disappointed when you have finished the coppering because it will appear to sag downwards at the bows and stern.

This is an optical illusion produced by the curving inwards of the ship’s body. To prevent this you must raise the line at each end of the ship and then the top line of the copper will appear horizontal. Begin to raise the line at the level of the Foremast and Mizen which is roughly where the cant frames begin.

Victory of course has a much bluffer bow and the degree of tweaking will differ between ships, but something to bear in mind.

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This is a good point to get some paint down on the wale altho’ many touch-ins will be required before the model is complete.

I am using Vallejo Black/grey which I think gives a better scale tone.

I am using the Vanguard supplied plates rather than use copper tape.

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Three very thin sheets of plates are supplied marked with the nail patterns.

There is also a separate set for the rudder and stem face plating.

Unlike the Amati plates (smaller strip to right) I have used previously, these are not handed Port and Starboard with nail markings to represent an overlap, nor are the plates so obviously scored for removal.

The Vanguard Plates do come easily away with careful bending.

The plates are a close match to the Amati version and with regard to relative costs there is not a lot in it.

B.E.

02/02/2025

SaltyScot · February 2

Good luck with this, it looks like a repetitive, tedious business but the results will certainly be worth it.

Blue Ensign · February 3

Thank you Mark, there are a lot of repetitive and tedious tasks in ship modelling, tying ratlines, rigging guns, fitting deadeyes, and indeed coppering. I don't mind, I'm in no hurry.

I want the build to last a while so I'm not tempted by the next offering to beguile me from the fertile mind of Mr Watton.😉

Post 30

Coppering

Before I begin, I have given the hull an application of w-o-p which should provide a better contact with the glue.

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Use of Poly surely brings out the planking, but as a purely varnished hull it wouldn’t do for me. I don’t like the striped effect of differently toned planks randomly applied, as can be seen here on the lower hull. Apart from aesthetics the effect is out of scale.

I used all the colour matched planks which fortunately covered above the waterline, but there were insufficient matching planks for a full bare hull.

With Harpy, only six Pearwood lengths were unusable for my purposes, but the odd few defects will always get through.

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I am not a fan of vertically grained or mottled strips, but they can be used beneath copper or a painted hull.

In larger projects such as Sphinx and Indefatigable where my intention from the outset was for varnished hulls, I replaced all the Pear strip with milled timber from Hobbymill E.U. an excellent supplier of quality timber.

With coppering preparation is everything to assist a smooth operation.

I have assembled my application kit.

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Acetone for cleaning off ca marks.

Isopropanol for cleaning plates.

Disposable vinyl gloves.

Pick-up tool and burnishing stick.

Tacky Wax for picking up plates.

Scalpel and cutters.

I am now conducting tests on various cryanolates to see which suits me best. I would prefer not to have to use the standard ca with its undesirable issues for eyes and breathing, but early indications show that the odourless version I have is a little suspect.

I noticed that Knocklouder had mentioned in a post that he had used Deluxe Super’phatic glue (no fumes) with good result so I have ordered a bottle for test.

B.E.

03/02/2025

dunnock · February 3

Great build and log with lots of useful tips and ideas

I'll be interested to see the results of your CA and Superphatic tests BE

David

Blue Ensign · February 4

Thank you David, I'm still waiting for the stuff to arrive together with a fresh bottle of the 'odourless Cyano..'

I'm hoping it will work, the other stuff gets on my chest with the prolonged exposure when plating, and it's tiresome wearing a mask.

B.E.

Blue Ensign · February 6

Post 31

Coppering cont’d

I did a test using different specs of Deluxe cyano.

Each sample plate was glued to a piece of pear to which w-o-p had been applied.

Roket Max – thick and non-runny. Slightly more tricky to apply to plates as it tended to drag, and resulted in excess squeezing out from beneath the plates when burnished down.

Roket Rapid – Medium viscosity, flowed well onto plate, little excess squeeze.

Both held well but will create undesirable fumes.

Roket Odourless - Flowed easily onto plate, bonding time 10-20 sec. Has the great advantage of no fumes. I had originally tested this with a long-opened container, so may have become less effective, new stock held fine.

Roket Super’Phatic – Has the colour and consistency of milk, did hold the plate but with longer grab, and is far more messy to apply.

Cleans up with water, and again no fumes.

I am relieved that Roket Odourless cyano did the job, and that is the one I have decided upon.

Approach

One sheet of plates (299) has been separated for use. The back of the plates have been cleaned with Isopropanol.

I will start with the standard naval procedure working from stern keel forward, and keel up, but from there any relationship to reality will end. There will be no overlap of plates which I will butt match albeit in a brick laid pattern.

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I am working both sides as I go along, better than the thought of having completed one side, to think I’ve got to do it all over again!

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I have started by running strips of copper tape along the keel bottom and the stern post. Atop this I will eventually look to add a wooden strip to represent the False keel.

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As each plate is applied I immediately burnish, and clean with a cotton bud dipped in Acetone. Dried on cyano can be a pain to remove later.

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It is a long and repetitive business, but once into a rhythm I find it quite relaxing.

B.E.

06/02/2025

Glenn-UK · February 6

Hello Maurice

Great work on the coppering and choice of CA. I have one question which is "What burnishing stick are you using?"

I have followed you lead with regards to the square tuck which looks great on your model.

Cheers

Glenn (UK)

Blue Ensign · February 7

Nothing special Glenn, simply a length of dowel with the end rounded a little. I have also used one of those cheap mechanical pencils with the rubber in the end, that works too.

You can see it here on the right hand side of the tile next to my pick-up tool. That could also easily be a small diameter length of dowel, covered in micro-porous tape, and dipped in tacky wax.

B.E.

wvdhee · February 7

Is it better to glue to treated wood (wop, varnish, paint primer, ...) than bare wood? I am thinking of putting black primer on the hull before coppering.

Edited February 7 by wvdhee

Blue Ensign · February 7

Certainly with cyano, I applied w-o-p to the hull before plating. My test on bare wood suggested the cyano does not take as well.

I also applied sanding sealer to the hull following the first planking layer.

Applying a primer is a good idea, you could also use copper paint.

B.E.

Blue Ensign · February 9

Post 32

Coppering cont’d

As the copper plates follow the lines of the hull it becomes apparent that in some areas the plates won’t fit square to both edges of the adjacent plates.

I find using a needle file to impart a slight concave curve as necessary to get a reasonable fit works, together with a slight angle cut on the short edges.