Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section

[Maury S]

Very little progress...other obligations.  Upper deck beams and knees in place.  Next up the carlings and ledges.   The hanging knees on the aft beam hang out from the planking.  I'm not sure whether to put them on.  Any thoughts?  Notice on the first pic. there is a turned pillar supporting the center of the foreward beam,  This was taken from a  cross section in a much earlier chapter.  It sits atop the king plank (segment) and required notching the frame for the lower deck gratings.  I'm not sure this is correct...just how I interpreted the earlier illustration.

Maury

Edited October 14, 2014 by Maurys

[Maury S]

Lining up the intermediate carlings:  The plans locate the outer carling 49.5" from the inner carling.  That's 1 1/32" at scale.  Beam arm and beams are marked at this point.  Using the carling as a guide, the other edge is marked so the mortise can be cut.  Same method as the lower deck carlings.  A score is made in the arm and beam on both sides of the carling as a stopper point.  Then using a #11 blade, cut to both sides and cleaned up with a sanding stick.  One end of the end of the carling is sanded to a 75 degree bevel to fit in the beam notch, then marked to approximate length.  The other end is then sanded (a little bit at a time) until it just fits into both notches and is flush with the tops of the beams.

Maury

[Maury S]

While waiting for the glue to dry on the carlings, I finished the gratings and the frame.  The gratings are assembled in a jig to hold the notched pieces while the battens are installed.  I rubbed bees wax on the jig before  inserting the pieces so the diluted white glue would not stick to the jig.  I used a curved dentist pick to pry the pieces from the jig.  Once assembled and dry, I used the circular sander to trim the two pieces to size to fit into the frame.  The frame is 6" x 12" with a 2" x 2" shoulder cut out to support the ends of the gratings.  The frame was tapered to 5" at the top after assembled and dry.  Corners rounded down to the 3" level (for the deck planking).  The two pieces of grating are not equal.  One is 7 pieces long and the other is six so they fit properly into the frame.  The two assembled grates were attached to my thickness sander SLED with double sided tape and run thru several times taking off just a hair of the battens each pass until flush.  It is not permanently installed yet as the ledges need to be installed between the carlings.  Next up the carlings between the mid and aft beams.

Maury

Edited October 29, 2014 by Maurys

[Maury S]

Below are pictures of sanding the bevel in a carling and an early test-fit of same.  Sanding, test fit, sanding, test fit until it is flush with the beam.  For the carlings intercepting the beam arms (at an angle), I mark the angle and cut that first, then cut the bevel with a chisel.  The opposite square end is then cut to size and sanded to the bevel.  All the carlings are installed.  Now on to the ledges.

Maury

[cog]

Looking sharp, very neatly done. BTW I like your sanding tool, haven't seen that one before

[Maury S]

The ledges are done.  Those that land on the arms take a great deal of care to get all the angles correct.  The hatch frame is not attached yet.  I made the waterway by cutting a bevel from a sheet on the Byrnes saw, cut to approximate width and thicknessed on the Byrnes thickness sander and finally cut to final width.  I then ran the piece over the blade set at a 1" cut several times to bring the one side to the 3" thickness.  The planks are 3" x 10".  As the planks line up, only two or three will need minor tapering.  Figuring the planks closest to the enter line / partners takes special care where the pumps come through the deck.  I still have to decide if I install the hanging knees behind the aft beam.  If so, I will extend the planking to the edge of the knee, not the beam.  Any thoughts?

Maury

[druxey]

If I understand you correctly; the hanging knee (if you fit it) will fay flush over the inner planking, not interrupt it.

 

Nice work on the carlings and ledges!

[Maury S]

Druxey,

If I install the knees, they will abut the aft side of the beam, but be hanging out from the inner planking / ceilings (which were finished flush with the frames).  I can run the deck planking far enough to cover the top of the knee, but it would still be hanging out vis-a-vis the the side / frame.  I'm just not sure if it will look right that way. 

Maury

[druxey]

Hmm. You could either omit the knee altogether, or fit a knee that is sectioned (i.e. thin) that is cut flush to the end of the model. Does that make sense?

[dvm27]

I omitted those hanging knees, Maury as I felt they would look odd hanging off the end. I do like Druxey's idea of adding it as a thin wafer!

[Maury S]

Druxey & Greg, I sectioned the hanging knees on the aft lower deck beam.  Since the ceilings only go to the frame, the knees would really just hang out there.   I think I'll just omit them.  Thanks for your comments!   Test fitting the deck planking around the partners carling.  Using the pattern again to line up the elm tree and pipes.  I'll caulk around the holes (with wood putty).   I think this is as good as a fit I can manage.  Cutting an octagonal hole is a challenge.  Thanks for all the "Likes".

Maury

[druxey]

Cutting and fitting around those pump tubes is very tricky. Looking good so far!

[Trussben]

Looking great Maurey, I like your use of the templates - makes for more accurate work.

 

Ben

[Maury S]

Upper deck planking installed.  I'll simulate subtle treenails put a coat of matte poly on and ready for the next installment.  Next to getting the chocks in the framing, this section was the biggest challenge.  Learned more and got more patient.

Maury

[jml1083]

Superb work Maury! I got all the frames raised when I tackled this the first time but didn't like the way the finished product looked so I stopped there. A big part of the decision to do a second attempt is your wonderful model which is a joy to look at.

 

The Ship Model Society of NJ is doing a group build of the Echo and I've told everyone to check out your build log for inspiration.

[tlevine]

It just keeps looking better and better.

[Maury S]

Thanks for all the likes and comments.  I'm using TFFM vol. II to get an idea of the next steps.  Seems the port liners have to go in before the spirketing.  Like the spirketing on the lower deck, I cut and beveled the pieces to size and then I marked each frame location and pre-drilled the bolt holes.  The upper strake is slightly wide so it will finish flush with the port liner, and if TFFM comments apply here, there is a bevel to the top edge of the upper strake so that it is horizontal rather than square to the frames (as they tumble in).  After a coat of matte poly to prevent staining, I rubbed in some darker wood putty to simulate bolt heads or treenails.

For the port liners, I think I'm going to use holly so it will stand out from the box.  I don't know yet how much reveal I should leave on the outboard side, so I'm at a stopping point for now.  Any thoughts or comments?  Also, TFFM says the sweep ports were similarly lined...very small pieces.

Maury

[Maury S]

More reading of TFFM indicates the outer planking should go on before the port linings go in.  Waiting on further instructions from Greg.

Maury

[druxey]

That is the case, Maury. The outer plank is trimmed flush to the framing of the port before the port stops are added.

[dvm27]

Once David and I have completed our upcomming workshop on sail making we will proceed with the next Echo class installment. You can't go wrong using the Swan series as a guide but read ahead to make sure you aren't digging a hole for yourself (like adding the port stops before the outer planking).

[Maury S]

Thanks Greg.  I think I'll work on the little cutter until you folks are ready.

[Maury S]

This also might be a good time for me to break out the partially completed mast from the 2011 workshop. Those spars were from TFFM so everything goes together.  My skills are better than when I started that project.  My patience is greater as well.

Maury

[dvm27]

In my Pegasus case are several workshop projects such as the cutter in frame, mast and a yard. They really add to the display.

[TomShipModel]

Good Evening Maury,

 

I've been lurking for quite some time.  I haven't started my Echo as of yet due to other projects but for sure, you work is inspirational.  Thanks for posting this Build Log.

 

Tom R

[Maury S]

Greg and David should have the next installment in a few days.  Then back to my main project (Echo Section).  Looking forward.  So much to learn and this is a great way to do it.

Maury

[Maury S]

Next stage is the (octagonal)  brake pumps and (Square) chain pumps and cisterns.  I'm not going to detail the inside of the pumps since they do not fit all the way down to the keel.   They will be just solid square pieces.  Rather than build a frame for the cistern(s) I cut a solid block for the inside and used a piece of 5/8" dowel cut to 5/16" thick (a full half dowel) for the pump covers.  The base is 1/16" and the planking material is 1/32" of assorted widths.  The legs are 1/16".  I'm not going to install a dale for draining the cisterns, so I made the outer ends with a solid piece that would be removed when the dale was put to use. 

I don't have any 1/32" brass rods for the axle so I'll have to wait to work of the rhodings (bearing-like fixtures that hold the axles in place).  I suspect I'll use brass tubing and sheet material for those.  That will be metal working so I'll fiddle with the brake pumps for now.

Maury

[Maury S]

Thanks for all the "likes".  Work on the brake pump and handle continues.  The only measurement given is the handle.  Everything else interpreted from the drawings.  The handle is 3' 6" long, 3" at it's widest part and 1 1/2" thick (.03125") .  I under-sized it to .03" thick so it would not bind (see next sentence).  The bracket for the handle is three sandwiched .03125: pieces, roughly shaped, glued together and then finish-sanded.  The center piece is cut short, resulting in a slot for the handle.  The out-flow tube is brass, yet to be darkened.  The plunger rod is yet to be installed.  Each little section is a project into itself. 

 

The axle and handle for the chain pump is going to be a challenge.  Keeping everything along the axis with several 90 degree bends means soldering pieces, not just bending.  As I read the plans, it runs above the edge of the hatch.  That must mean it was removed when not in use so it would not interfere with moving material in and out through the hatch.  Any thoughts?

Maury

[Maury S]

Wow, I'm approaching the 2 year anniversary for this build.  I bought the last package of 1/32" rod from Ace.  Plunger is temporarily installed (not blackened yet) and the support band around the top of the pump tube painted and installed (Black acid-free paper painted with iron black).  It will only be visible from about 1/8" below the out-flow tubing. 

I'm thinking about the rhodings (bearings) for the chain pump.  The 1/32" rod fits  inside a 1/16" tubing.  If I solder the tubing against a sheet of brass flat material, I could cut off appropriately sized segments for the 5 pieces needed.  Worth a try.  They would have to be installed on the axle system as it is being assembled / soldered and then attached to the cistern top, bitts and end support.

Maury

[gjdale]

Lovely work Maury.

[jml1083]

Very impressive work Maury! I refer to your build log often.