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HMS Unicorn by ianmajor - Corel - Scale 1:75, 1748 to 1771


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Simply ingenious Ian! Fantastic tutorial too. Thanks for posting so much detail about how you approached this task - it's both informative and instructive.

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Absolutely mind boggled and take aback with the attention to detail-----please excuse my ignorance, but will the lid completely obscure your efforts?

 

JP

Built & De-Commissioned: HMS Endeavour (Corel), HMS Unicorn (Corel),

Abandoned: HMS Bounty (AL)

Completed : Wappen Von Hamburg (Corel), Le Renommee (Euromodel)... on hold

Current WIP: Berlin by Corel

On Shelf:  HMS Bounty (Billings),

 

 

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Ian,

 

Absolutely amazing work.

 

 

Regards,

John

 

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Fantastic metal work Ian and a great tutorial.

 

Cheers,

Piet, The Flying Dutchman.

 

"Your greatest asset is not the quantity of your friends , rather the quality of your friends."  (old Chinese proverb)

 

Current Builds: Hr. Ms. Java 1925-1942

                       VOC Ship Surabaya

 

Planned Builds: Young America Diorama - scale 1:3000

 

Future Builds: KPM ship "MS Musi."  Zuiderzee Botter - scale 1:25. VOC Jacht in a 6" lamp,  Buginese fishing Prauw.  Hr. Ms. Java - Royal Navy Netherlands Cruiser.

 

Completed Builds:   Hr. Ms. O16 Submarine

                             Hr. Ms. O19 - Submarine Royal Navy Netherlands

                             Ship Yard Diorama with Topsail schooner -

                             Friendship Sloop Gwenfra

                           Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack    

                             Golden Hind - Cutte Sark (both not in this forum)

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Oh that heart sinking moment when something you have been working on for ages pings off into the ether never to be seen again - except when you have re made the part, when it suddenly re-appears. :rolleyes:

 

As someone who can only gaze with amazement on your metal working dexterity Ian, I think I would go for the soft option of having the cover on one with the workings displayed on the other, but then as someone who can only dream of producing such a great little item, I would wouldn't I ;)

 

B.E.

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Really incredible work Ian.  Thank you for the tutorial.  Even more impressive when considering how small these parts are!

 

I should have paid more attention in math class :)

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Breathtaking Ian!! :) I must say the details of the chain is simply awesome! 

 

and surprise... I'm BACK!!! lol

I was busying with my new job.. and recently, Chinese New Year.. 

 

I got my new job last September, but the bad side is that it's in Singapore.. so, I can't continue with my Unicorn anymore. :( She's now resting in shelf.

My plan is to work here for like 4-5 years for a better savings, and then only return to Malaysia. Hope everything goes smooth. 

Seeing your works really 'turn me on' back on this hobby, haha.. now i'm considering making a smaller model here like a boat or sloop which use only minimum tools and take up lesser space. It's time to visit cornwallmodelboat again!!! :D

 

Anyway, just a pic of my unicorn before I put her in shelf. I did a quick + full time work on her before i got to Singapore. Hope you don't mind ;)

 

10568855_10204274643088666_4016680360573

You can see that hull started cracking...  :huh:

 

Mike,

I also just learned that you started your Pegasus, nice work so far! The hull looks well after sanding  :)

 

 

Visit My Blog! 

http://malaysiamodelship.blogspot.com/

 

Previous Build:

HMS Race Horse (Sergal)

 

Current Build:

HMS Unicorn (Corel)

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Hi folks,

 

Thank you for your words of encouragement and likes. All of you who have commented are modelers that I look up to on this forum.

 

Nenad, I hope I don't make you too breathless - I don't want you to stop breathing!  :o

 

Grant, I am glad you enjoyed my ramblings - I hope you were not sent off to sleep by them. ;)

 

JP, the lids are removable so that the detail can be seen. However I am wondering how practical it will be to remove/replace the lids when the rigging is in place. Well in my old model railway club I had the reputation of making details like working locomotive inside valve gear that was impossible to see once the boiler is fitted - so I am just continuing with my old lunacy!

 

John, thanks for looking in. I am looking forward to more developments on your Unicorn.

 

Piet, my metal work is put in the shade by that on your 0 19.

 

BE, as you say searching for "pinged" items always results in finding previously lost items. In this case it was bits for the quarter deck rail that I made some time ago. I love your replacement figures on your Pegasus. Before you did them the originals looked good but the new ones are a huge improvement.

 

Mike, I am expecting that you will improve on my chain pump efforts. Something to look forward to. ;)

 

ZyXuz, good to hear from you again. Your Unicorn has come on in leaps and bounds. Not sure why the hull has started cracking. Perhaps someone with more experience then me could offer a view. I am sure you will sort it.

 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Onwards with the chain pumps.

 

I made some tubes for the chains to disappear in to. This was a simple turning and end drilling job. The tubes are made from walnut dowling turned down to 4mm outside diameter with a 2mm hole bored through the centre. The top edges were rounded and the bore opened out slightly at the mouth to give a tappered entrance. The tubes were parted off 9mm long.

 

I also produced the bungs to go in to the front of the cisterns. These were again turned up from walnut dowling. I first turned the dowling down to 3mm diameter, then turned the end to 2mm for a length of 1mm. I then parted it off at 1.5mm long. Although only 2 are needed due to my unfailing ability to lose things I made four of them. This also allowed me to choose the better ones to fit.

 

They need 2 off 0.4mm holes drilled in the ends to take a wire staple to represent the handle. To hold the bungs whilst doing this I gripped them in a pin vice.

 

The photo shows the tubes and the first bung in the pin vice.

 

post-78-0-34549200-1425159061_thumb.jpg

 

The pin vice was then clamped vertically in the vice on the milling machine to drill the two holes. 

 

post-78-0-50594100-1425159062_thumb.jpg

 

Short lengths of 0.3mm brass wire were bent up, blackened then glued in to the bungs. The next photo shows the best two. The rim of the bungs crumbled slightly - the walnut I have is not ideal for this work. 

 

The sisterns have a pair of 4mm holes drilled in their bottoms to take the tubes plus one 2mm hole in the leading side to take a bung. This was nerve wracking work - it was like drilling egg shells. 

 

post-78-0-05157800-1425159063_thumb.jpg

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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I glued my remaining sprocket wheel in to the starboard cistern. To secure the chain I (permanently) hooked lengths of wire in to the end links.

 

I also drilled two 4mm holes in the cluster base for the inboard pipes to fit. The outboard pipes will simply sit on the deck surface.  

 

post-78-0-43092100-1425159273_thumb.jpg

 

The wires were then fed down in to the tubes drawing the ends of the chain with them. To secure the wires I turned up two 2mm diameter bungs from bamboo, then drilled 0.5mm holes through their centres. These were threaded on to the wire from the bottom then pushed in to the bottom of the tubes. The bungs were glued to the tubes leaving the wire free for now. 

 

The chain could then be adjusted and pulled taught by the wires then the wires secured by a drop of superglue. The wires could then be trimmed off.

 

This ensures the chain is secure at both ends. The bungs also line the chains up centrally within the tubes.

 

The photo shows this almost completed. The left hand wire is yet to be trimmed.

 

post-78-0-83794500-1425159274_thumb.jpg

 

Next was a dry run in the waist area of the ship. The cisterns cleared all the surrounding items such as cannon rigging. Unfortunately I have drilled the two holes in the cluster base too close together. This results in the two cisterns being jammed together. Also the crank handles would be too far away from the uprights to which they should be attached. I will have to ease the two holes outwards by 1mm.

 

When I have rigged out the second pump I will make some rodings in the same way as the cannon caps.

 

I keep looking at the chain and thinking I could have made the links finer. :huh:

 

post-78-0-52218500-1425159275_thumb.jpg

 

I have been giving more thought to the second mechanism and doing some reading on the subject.

 

One document that I consulted was a thesis by Thomas James Oertling called "The History and Development of Ships' Bilge Pumps, 1500-1840" which can be found here . Thomas Oertling has developed this further and published it in a book "Ships' Bilge Pumps - A History of Their Development, 1500 - 1900" ISBN 978-0-89096-722-5.

 

In his thesis he describes the Burr Pump in Chapter IV page 24, the Common (Elm Tree) Pump Chapter V page 32 and the Chain Pump Chapter VI page 73.

 

On page 77 he quotes Blankley (1750) who describes a cylinder of wood with "Y" shaped sprockets set in its periphery. The chain being made of circular, oval or "S" shaped links. 

 

At this time the saucers were made of metal. Earlier they were made of wood and referred to as burrs.

 

On page 78 he quotes the London Magazine (1768) which refers to the new improved Cole/Bentinck design that has a spoked sprocket wheel with "cycle" type chain. 

 

This suggests that the spoked sprocket type was introduced during the lifetime of Unicorn and that the original pumps would have been of the old type. Did Unicorn ever have the new type of pump? Who knows. Since Unicorn and Lyme could be regarded as experimental ships then perhaps it is feasible that towards its end Unicorn carried one of each type. So.....I think I will attempt to make one of the old type mechanisms.

 

One fly in the ointment - most of the info I have seen suggests the old type mechanism simply emptied directly on to the deck, then the water drained across the deck and out of the scuppers.However if I model one pump with and one without a cistern it is going to look odd. Needs more thought.

 

Still that will have to wait - a few pleasant distractions are coming up in the next few weeks - so no modeling and I will have little Web access which will stop my ramblings for now.

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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That looks rather splendid Ian, just lovely work!  Looks like you think like me, if I make a detail it better works  ;)

You might be right in it looking odd having two pumps from different time periods.  However, the later one could be there for operational trial reasons.

 

Cheers,

Piet, The Flying Dutchman.

 

"Your greatest asset is not the quantity of your friends , rather the quality of your friends."  (old Chinese proverb)

 

Current Builds: Hr. Ms. Java 1925-1942

                       VOC Ship Surabaya

 

Planned Builds: Young America Diorama - scale 1:3000

 

Future Builds: KPM ship "MS Musi."  Zuiderzee Botter - scale 1:25. VOC Jacht in a 6" lamp,  Buginese fishing Prauw.  Hr. Ms. Java - Royal Navy Netherlands Cruiser.

 

Completed Builds:   Hr. Ms. O16 Submarine

                             Hr. Ms. O19 - Submarine Royal Navy Netherlands

                             Ship Yard Diorama with Topsail schooner -

                             Friendship Sloop Gwenfra

                           Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack    

                             Golden Hind - Cutte Sark (both not in this forum)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Ian,

           I am new to model ship building having just finished  BLUENOSE 2, I have now started on Corels  UNICORN. The first problem was the slots in the bulkheads were to small to fit the keel, this has been fixed but when they are fitted to the keel none of them are flush with the top of the keel they all sit at different levels. Did you have this problem?  if so what is the remedy, file  them all flush? I would be gratefull for any advise you can give.   Your  UNICON is looking superb.

Regards,

Pomy

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Pomy,

 

Yes I had problems in this area as well. I am away from my normal web access for the next few days. I will give a better response then - if that is OK.

Edited by ianmajor

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Hi,

    Ian and spyglass, thank you for your reply, I look forward to your better response Ian. As to starting a log my computer skills are not too good!!!!  I am 78 years old in September, a retired  fitter/ turner. I think I will have to get one of my grandsons to help me.

Regards to you both,

Pomy

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Hi,

    Ian and Spyglass, thank you for your reply.  I look forward to your reply Ian, as regards starting a log I think it good be a good idea, my computer skills are not the best!!!  I am a retired  FITTER/TUNER, aged 77, so I will have to get one of my grandsons to help me with the log.

Regards,

Pomy

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Well I am back in the fold having just had a very pleasant 5 week tour of New Zealand, with time in Australia and Hong Kong. I am a great fan of all things NZ and also of all things Aus (with the exception of Rupert Murdoch) so it was especially nice to find everyone so friendly in such beautiful environments. I even forgive them for beating our rugby team (couldn't care less about cricket).

 

To prove I was there....

 

In Sydney we saw plenty of cruise liners including this one in a fetching shade of grey....

 

post-78-0-13501200-1428268232_thumb.jpg

 

....nearby was this vessel which presumably allows its passengers to access the golden beaches......

 

post-78-0-08098300-1428268234_thumb.jpg

 

.....and the submarines have some interesting crew members.......

 

post-78-0-98378500-1428268234_thumb.jpg

 

...the latter is outside of the Aus National Maritime museum which sadly I did not have time to visit.

 

In NZ we travelled from the north island to the south island in this ship, which carries cars, lorries and rail wagons...

 

post-78-0-15834900-1428268236_thumb.jpg

 

.....the crossing was rather choppy due to the attentions of cyclone PAM. Not so on the tranquil waters of the lake at Queenstown where the TSS Earnslaw serenely puffed back and forth.........

 

post-78-0-81823300-1428268237_thumb.jpg

 

...but in Hong Kong the waterways are very busy with the Star ferries hooting at each other to get out of the way......

 

post-78-0-68764900-1428268238_thumb.jpg

 

..... bliss.

 

So....once my brain can work out what day of the week it is and what time, I will start on the second pump mechanism.

 

BTW...I am not ignoring Pomy's question, I am having a PM exchange with him.

 

 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Great pictures Ian - looks like a really fun trip.  Welcome back!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    Hs129B-2 1/48  SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32   IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Thanks Mike and thanks guys for the likes.

 

Well I have made some progress on the second chain pump mechanism. I am going with the early type of mechanism. I was interested in the references quoted by Oertling. One was an entry in the Setember 1768 London Magazine (or Gentleman's Monthly Intelligencer). Back copies of this news sheet are held in the Library of the University of Michigan. They have been digitised and the 1768 set can be found here  

 

Part of it is the "Monthly Chronologer" (basically a diary). In the September Chronologer (p499) sandwiched between lists of murders, robberies etc and the strange case of a sulphurous fireball in Devon is a brief description of the comparitive tests held between "Mr Cole's New Pump" and the old type pump on HMS Seaford. It includes some of the results. It only mentions William Cole not Captain John Bendinck who is credited as the inventor of the new type of chain pump. Cole would have been the man who realised the physical entity.    

 

I wandered off in to other sections of the London Magazine and found for example on page 328 reference to the discovery of a cluster of islands in the Pacific by the crew of HMS Dolphin. They named the islands King George Islands.Apparently the ship's crew found themselves pelted with stones by the locals so eventually the crew responded with cannon loaded with grapeshot. No contest from that point - but not a good way to make friends.

 

The Magazine also includes articles about hostile French activity in Corsica. It is a great source (British view) of information on the  various battles, developments, personalities etc on sea and land.

 

The navy tests of the "cycle chain" type pump occurred in the last few years of Unicorn's existence so perhaps for time it carried both types like Seaford.

 

For the mechanism construction I started with the forks that go around the sprocket wheel. These I made from 20 x 4mm blanks of 0.25mm brass sheet. The blanks were tacked together in a stack and the stack attached to a sacrificial piece of scrap for clamping purposes. The basic shape was milled out.

 

post-78-0-05669500-1428938807_thumb.jpg

 

I couldn't find any documents with dimensions for this type of mechanism so guesswork was the order of the day. I opted to use the same size "saucers" in the chain as my first pump. This set the forks at slightly over 2mm wide with a 1.6mm hole drilled and milled in the centre. The forks are 2.5mm long and the tang is is 0.5mm wide and approx 4mm long.

 

The final shape was produced with a file and the individual forks sawn off then blackened. 8off are need but I produced enough for a few spares.

 

post-78-0-79997100-1428938808_thumb.jpg

 

The centre of the sprocket is a cylinder of wood. The diameter of this was set by the distance between the centres of the tubes in the cistern (9mm). The distance between the centres of the forks had to match the tubes so I turned down some walnut dowel to 7mm diameter. I drilled the centre 1mm diameter for the shaft and drilled 8 evenly spaced holes around the cylinder 1.5mm from the edge then parted off at 3mm.

 

The forks were superglued in to the cylinder along with the shaft to complete the sprocket.

 

post-78-0-82117600-1428938809_thumb.jpg

 

From the finished item the proportional size of the forks to that of the central cylinder looks a little large but I am stuck with using some common components with the other pump.

 

I tried the sprocket in the second systern for size. Actually the lower forks are slightly foul of the top of the tubes, but since it is not going to work I can live with that!

 

post-78-0-70863200-1428938810_thumb.jpg

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Next was the chain.

 

I have a length of chain left over from that which I "knitted" for the rudder. This looked OK for the job. I cut some slotted discs in the same way as for the first pump. With a little sanding of the slots the discs slipped on to a chain link nicely. A touch of solder on the end of the slot kept them in place.

 

The next photo is a comparison of the "old" style chain (upper) and the "new" style chain. 

 

post-78-0-79846300-1428940304.jpg

 

The big question was/is - how many saucers and at what spacing should there be. I could find no clarification in Oertling or anywhere else for that matter. The entry in the London Magazine states that with the new pump 2 men lifted a ton of water in 55 seconds, however two men could not move the old type pump. This indicates to me that there was more friction suggesting the old pump had more valves (saucers) than the new.

 

I was debating whether to have the saucers spaced to engage with every fork but decided to set the spacing at every other fork (OK this means that on a working pump every other fork would never get used).

 

post-78-0-61229300-1428940306_thumb.jpg

 

I did a dry run assembly to see how the whole thing looked and compared it with the first pump. Until I permanently fix the mechanism I could still add more saucers. I am inclined against this because both chains look a bit heavy to me and extra saucers would exacerbate this.

 

post-78-0-58499900-1428940307_thumb.jpg 

 

If I decide that this is OK I will fit the mechanisms permanently and move on to some elm tree pumps.

 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Great work Ian. I am constantly amazed and impressed by your engineering ingenuity, and your ability to work out the "how to" as well as the "what". Your log is always an education that I thoroughly enjoy. Thanks for sharing so much of your thinking and processes.

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Wonderful work Ian. I look at your photos,then at my Unicorn and realize how tiny the scale is.......My mind is blown......Must have a nap to recover

 

 

    John

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John and Grant, thanks for your kind words - I fear you see a better standard of workmanship than I see. I keep looking and thinking that I should have done better. :)  :)  :)

 

Thanks guys for the likes.

 

A quick update. I have been consulting the on line copy of Thomas Oertling's Thesis for my info. This is dated 1984. His book on the subject of ships' pumps was published in 1996. Obviously he had done much more research for the book. I had a look at a preview of his book which included a part of the chain pump section. In this he states the valves/saucers were about 50cm apart on the old type pump chains. This scales down to 6.7mm in 1:75. I measured mine - the pitch of my valves is 7.5 which is fairly close. I will leave them as constructed.

 

Interestingly in his thesis there is a diagram of a wooden sprocket wheel on page 85 which has 8 forks. I have seen other similar diagrams which are probably based on a contemporary Dutch diagram of the pump mechanism of an early 18th century British 50 gun ship.  However in his book (page 65) he has a diagram of his reconstruction from fragments of the chain pump on the Santa Antonio which has only 4 forks on the drum. Ho hum - yer pays yer money and yer takes yer choice!

 

Either way I perhaps should have consulted a copy of the book before starting the pumps rather than after the event. :)

Edited by ianmajor

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Your chain pump drives look very good Ian

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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  • 3 weeks later...
David, Nils and tuciship, thanks for looking in and your comments.

 

(Hopefully I have put this in the correct log this time - what a plonker!)

 

Now to start on the elm tree pumps. Information came from several sources. The dimensions I got from Lavery. I produced a scale diagram. On the diagram I included a 5ft 8in sailor to make sure the size was sensible.

 

post-78-0-88381900-1430511664_thumb.jpg

 

The first items made were 1mm wide rings cut from 4mm diameter brass tube. I produced these first so that I could use them as gauges when turning down the wooden "pipes".

 

The pipes were produced from walnut dowel. The end was turned down so that one of the rings was a good interference fit. With the ring in place I end drilled the dowel - the ring stopped the wood from splitting whilst drilling.

 

The dowel was transferred (still in the chuck) to the dividing head mounted horizontally in the mill to make the main part of the tube an octagonal shape. Then back to the lathe to turn the bottom to 2mm diameter.

 

A short length of bamboo was end drilled 0.5mm then turned down to 1mm outside diameter. This was set in to a hole in main pipe as the outlet.

 

post-78-0-21622600-1430511666_thumb.jpg
Edited by ianmajor

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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Three lengths of 1mm thick N/S were tacked together and then drilled and milled to make the handle brackets. A slot was sawn in the end of each piece to take a handle.

 

post-78-0-38348000-1430511991_thumb.jpg

 

The best two brackets were then each soldered to a ring.

 

Three pieces of 0.5mm N/S were tacked together and drilled/milled to make the handles.

 

The next photo shows the various stages. At the top are the blanks produced by milling. The middle shows the blanks filed to final shape. The bottom is an assembled pump.

 

post-78-0-87326900-1430511992_thumb.jpg

 

 

A final photo shows the pump in my agriculturals for scale. The handle wiggles up and down!  :)

 

post-78-0-19473300-1430511994_thumb.jpg

 

The metalwork is still to be blackened, then after some final adjustments the whole pump cluster will be ready for permanent installation in the waist area.

 

Ian M.

 

Current build: HMS Unicorn  (1748) - Corel Kit

 

Advice from my Grandfather to me. The only people who don't make mistakes are those who stand back and watch. The trick is not to repeat the error. 

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A great display of both your engineering (drawing/design) and your machining skills Ian. That's a terrific result!

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Fantastic work Ian, looks very realistic!

 

Cheers,

Piet, The Flying Dutchman.

 

"Your greatest asset is not the quantity of your friends , rather the quality of your friends."  (old Chinese proverb)

 

Current Builds: Hr. Ms. Java 1925-1942

                       VOC Ship Surabaya

 

Planned Builds: Young America Diorama - scale 1:3000

 

Future Builds: KPM ship "MS Musi."  Zuiderzee Botter - scale 1:25. VOC Jacht in a 6" lamp,  Buginese fishing Prauw.  Hr. Ms. Java - Royal Navy Netherlands Cruiser.

 

Completed Builds:   Hr. Ms. O16 Submarine

                             Hr. Ms. O19 - Submarine Royal Navy Netherlands

                             Ship Yard Diorama with Topsail schooner -

                             Friendship Sloop Gwenfra

                           Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack    

                             Golden Hind - Cutte Sark (both not in this forum)

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