Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style

[Curieux]

A picture of my Beaver’s prize model.

 

Recently , I compared the historical plan from the London museum with Hahn plan.

The breadth on the body plan is not the same. Hahn plan has a larger breadth: +4mm .

By the way, the distribution of the cant frames (aft) seems to be wrong. 
 

Congratulation on your model. Framing is superb.

[Curieux]

Beaver prize (taken by HMS Beaver, see below)
The London museum plan : 100% accurate

Edited April 23 by Curieux

[Curieux]

This is the Beaver plan . Cant frame distribution is indicated…far from Hahn plan.

English sloop, designed by Slade.

Edited April 23 by Curieux

[druxey]

Hahn was very clear that his models were stylized and did not reflect actual framing  practice.

 

Also, the plans you show are of completely different ships. The upper one is Beaver's Prize dated March 1778 and the lower one is Beaver of 1757 - a French privateer.

[Curieux]

Both shared the same history. This cant frame distribution is just an example. I checked other plans too. Cant frame distribution follows specific rules. On average the last cant frame (aft) has an angle much sharper than on Hahn plan. 
Beaver (1761) is not a french privateer but an english sloop designed by Slade, based on the shape of the french fregate Aurore.

Beaver framing is english with cant frames. French ships had no cant frames.

Beaver prize was taken by this Beaver sloop 🙂

Edited April 23 by Curieux

[Curieux]

An other example. 
Royal Navy sloop, 1776

Edited April 23 by Curieux

[Mike Y]

Curieux, so nice to see another Beaver's Prize build! Hope you can start a build log and share your progress (even retroactively, it is interesting to follow the old build steps even if it you are much further into the build by now).

I see you are building the pre-modification version?

 

Yes, Hahn frame is a styling choice and does not follow the real practice, so both of our cant frames are incorrect   We can refer to the same period Swan class that is greatly documented in the TFFM book series to see the proper practice.

 

Would like to see more photos, hopefully not only the finished model. Really like your unpainted railings, but hard to see anything else from this angle. 

 

 

 

Edited April 23 by Mike Y

[Curieux]

Dear Mike,

Your model is a lot better than mine 🙂

I should start a new one with my level of today understanding.

The Hahn method is good but could be improved without to much trouble.

 

Best

Michel

[Mike Y]

Hi Michel,

 

No, your model is quite awesome! You should really start the log and post more. There is always some other log that looks better, that is not an excuse   And we all are masters of finding flaws in our models, so it's never perfect...

 

Have you built yours out of the Lumberyard "timbering package" or entirely from scratch (plans only)? Haven't seen any Lumberyard based build logs, frankly... Would be very interesting to see!

The scrolls under your quarter gallery look laser cut, so that's why I thought about a package  

Edited April 23 by Mike Y

[Curieux]

Out of lumberyard.

 

but my wood was ok…I was lucky

[Curieux]

Either I start again the same model (without mistakes) or the HMS Beaver itself. In both cases, we have no framing plan (my guess, see photo).

HMS Beaver => french design but english built. Slade , the best english naval architect, was very keen on french design.

 

 

Date : 1770

Edited April 24 by Curieux

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Ah, the midship frames from Kingfisher. For the first. Ships of the class the frameing design, which was introduced with Cygnet is not correct.

I am busy with another Swan Class Fly. For this ship the Cygnet design is with some small adjustments possible.

[Curieux]

This framing plan was published in 1770. That is why it could be useful for the Beaver framing (1761) or the Beaver’prize 🙂
 

Floor timber shoud be around 10 inches , sided (No scale indicated on the plan).

 

I should check with the size of the gun ports.

Edited April 24 by Curieux

[AnobiumPunctatum]

I don't think so. In my opinion is the purpose of the drawing to show the differences between the standard frameing sheme (doulble frame followed by two single frames) and the sheme which was used for Kingfisher in the midship area. Interesting is also the triple frame midships.

[Curieux]

1766, an other triple frames

 

before 1770’s  double frame was more common.

 

By the way, Beaver’s prize was built in America. Double frames seems to be a more normal practice there. 
Before being converted to a privateer, she was a merchant’s ship. 

 

Edited April 24 by Curieux

[Mike Y]

Now it's time to build magazines and all sorts of decks and beams. For that phase an accurate depth gauge is essential, so I've let my brain overthink yet another tool 

 

The requirements are:

1) Soft plastic or wood to avoid scratching the model

2) Nice looking and pleasure to use, that tool would be in active service for at least a decade.

3) Ideally it should have a thumbwheel or a knob for fine adjustment. 

 

I have a cheap plastic vernier calliper that satisfies the first requirement, but it does not have an knob / thumbwheel.

Could not find any plastic callipers with a knob, unfortunately. The plastic ones are already rare enough, let alone with a wheel adjuster.

 

Then I spotted a Lego set with a container loader ("reach stacker", to be more precise) that has a worm gear and tried to make an abomination out of it. It is surprisingly challenging to build a compact functional tool out of random lego parts, a whole puzzle of its own. Respect to people who do it on a regular basis!

It kind of works, but the play and precision is not good enough for my needs. 

So I gave up on the wheel adjuster requirement and went back to the simple "calliper on a gantry" setup.

It was a nice warmup to recover some skills that I've lost over years of inactivity.

 

This time I even got help from my little helper! She enjoyed cranking the mill  

 

The resulting design has two parts - sliding gantry (no t-tracks, it is stable enough on its own) and a "calliper holder" that slides sideways on the gantry to allow the gantry keep contact with both sides of the baseboard.

The bottom edge of the caliper is trimmed to a flatter profile to avoid hitting the keelson. Both ends of the calliper can be used for a markup to allow for a comfortable pencil positioning.

The setup relies on three clamps to fix everything in position. These plastic clamps are a bit of an eyesore, maybe I will sidetrack again to build a nicer ones  

 

 

Edited April 27 by Mike Y

[AON]

clever and simple!

[Curieux]

2 books are really useful : Anatomy of the ship Bounty and Endeavour. There are both merchantmen