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US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship


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Sailor1-0, my cutter model is held together with PVA (white) glue.   A more realistic way might be possible at a larger scale, but not for me at this scale.

 

Thanks, Michael and B.E., and "Likers".

 

Ron

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Thanks, Elmer!  Hope you had a good Christmas.

 

As Keith predicted, it starts to get interesting with a few more planks added--

 

post-69-0-54579100-1397443054_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-56438400-1397443055_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-23885400-1397443056_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-86636900-1397443056_thumb.jpg

 

Ron

Edited by rlb
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That second photo says it all!

Just beautiful, You really have me wanting to attempt a clinker planked boat. Your symmetry is as always, remarkable.

 

BTW Ron, are you using a plan in the planking stagger. I'm assuming that helps on being able to use narrower strake stock on the heavy spiling needed, but I would think that would be offset by the difficulty of making the complete strake lay perfectly. That issue at plank 3 doesn't seem to even be noticeable now.

 

I also really like how she is removable from the solid former.

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Hi Ron, I like the use of the long boat blank for creating the actual boat, great idea, I was searching for a better way of producing the long boats on my Niagara build and thanks to you I have found it. I built the MS New Bedford whaling boat using the same method, it was 24 inches long though. The stacked cut outs provided in my Niagara kit for the long boats are not very appealing and far to weak to handle. Thanks, I really like this Oneida build.

Edited by greatgalleons
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Thanks, Elia.

 

Thanks, greatgalleons; glad to help spread some ideas (they're not mine alone!).  I'm amazed how fast (and with such quality) you're moving on your Niagara.

 

Keith,

Yes, I have the planking stagger all mapped out.   Being able to shape a bow plank, separate from the stern plank, helps immensly.  I can't imagine trying to get both bow and stern ends to fit well, and also be the perfect length, with a single plank.   It's relatively easy to get two separate planks to join and line up well in the middle.  Up to this point, the spiling curvature has not been an issue.  I've been able to incorporate minor curvature in the limited plank width that I've used so far.   It looks like it may work out as well for the rest, but I won't know until I actually get there.  The third plank issue does seem to be working itself out!

 

Still a ways to go, and any sort of difficulty may arise, but so far so good.

 

Ron

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Ron beautiful work on the longboat!, my xmas was good. I did work 2 ,14 hrs shifts!

but very much worth it'. money wise. lumberyard surpized me with my onieda; for xmas!

what timing, received it on xmas eve . needless to say, I opened my gift early!!!!! the best wood I have ever seen, I am very happy with it, thnx for the inspriation

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Thanks, Sam.  I do like the look of the lap strake planking.

 

Elmer, good luck with your Oneida.

 

Planking the cutter continues.  The usual procedure is cut and bend a few planks, wait for them to dry, then sand to shape and glue.  

 

post-69-0-57665000-1388344711_thumb.jpg

 

 

A few strakes after that last photo, I decided I wasn't happy with the way the planks were developing at the bow on the starboard side.  I had also made a mistake with the planking shift on one starboard strake, so those two issues compelled me to take a backwards step and remove a few planks.  There's very little glue holding them.  A few wipes with Isopropyl alcohol, and they come off pretty easily--

 

post-69-0-75191300-1397442781_thumb.jpg

 

 

Here's where I'm at now, waiting for these planks to dry, so I thought I would post a little update--

 

post-69-0-29517200-1388344713_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-09755300-1388344714_thumb.jpg

 

 

I have six planks (one and a half strakes on each side) to go, I may be able to finish the planking today.

 

Ron

Edited by rlb
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That is really nice work, especially at that scale. Well done.

 

Russ

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Hi Ron -

 

Coming along very nicely.  The symmetry and the evenness of the reveals is well done.  Looking forward to seeing it completed.

 

Dan

Current build -SS Mayaguez (c.1975) scale 1/16" = 1' (1:192) by Dan Pariser

 

Prior scratch builds - Royal yacht Henrietta, USS Monitor, USS Maine, HMS Pelican, SS America, SS Rex, SS Uruguay, Viking knarr, Gokstad ship, Thames River Skiff , USS OneidaSwan 42 racing yacht  Queen Anne's Revenge (1710) SS Andrea Doria (1952), SS Michelangelo (1962) , Queen Anne's Revenge (2nd model) USS/SS Leviathan (1914),  James B Colgate (1892),  POW bone model (circa 1800) restoration

 

Prior kit builds - AL Dallas, Mamoli Bounty. Bluejacket America, North River Diligence, Airfix Sovereign of the Seas

 

"Take big bites.  Moderation is for monks."  Robert A. Heinlein

 

 

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Thanks, Russ, and Dan.

 

Planking finished.   Still some minor glue clean up to do on the exterior (and a lot on the interior, but that may wait until the frames are in), and some more sanding is needed, especially at the bow.  But maybe the hardest part of the cutter is done (hopefully)? 

 

post-69-0-55353900-1388376403_thumb.jpg

 

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I'm pretty happy with the starboard side, which will be the more visible side in the finished model display.

 

 

Next will be cutting the frame slots into the hull plug.

 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Edited by rlb
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It looks great. But why not just steam/wet bend the frames and place them directly into the shell of the hull?

 

Russ

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Russ, I like your thinking!  I missed a step in failing to locate the frame locations on the interior of the keel, but I think I can interpolate them from the planking butt locations, which I was careful to place accurately.  I think I should be able to do as you suggest.

 

Ron

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Sweet planking.   Love it.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks, all, for the comments, and everyone who popped in with a "like".  They are all very much appreciated.

 

Elia, I too, was intimidated by the clinker planking, but as with most of these modeling-things-one-hasn't-done-yet, the bark is worse than the bite.  And, the other fact of model building--I think I can do it better next time! 

 

I'm looking again at the Chapelle drawing, trying to determine all the details he didn't include in the drawing: footboards, platforms, seats, etc.  Even the number of oars to account for is a mystery to me.  How many would a 20 foot cutter have, two on each side, three, four?  (My compulsive lack of planning ahead is evident, once again.)

 

post-69-0-58267300-1388447716_thumb.jpg

 

 

I think I have planked one strake too many.   Chapelle didn't label a washboard on this drawing (I'm building the upper boat), as he did on many of his other cutter plans (nor did he dash them in as the Royal Navy plans do), and I was going to cap my boat with a thin gunwale, and thole pins or wooden oarlocks.  But as I re-examine this, studying how he drew the transom on this and other plans, and taking into account the depth of hull measurement, I now think his drawing does show a washboard, which means I'll have to do some back-stepping. 

 

I'll also go back through my W.E May book "The Boats of Men-of-War" for some clues.

 

Ron

Edited by rlb
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Best wishes to you, also, B.E. for a great 2014.

 

You know you must throw yourself into the Pinnace.  Your Pegasus is too good for second-best.   (Though as I write that, I am trying to imagine the difficulty of building my cutter at an even smaller scale.)

 

Ron

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Ron , What an outstanding model you have built! it is a beauty, well done sir.

 

And a happy new year to you and your family.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Thank you very much, Michael.   Best wishes for a happy new year to you and yours!

 

Current activity in the workshop:

 

Removed the last strake of planking.  I might be able to reuse this, or some of it, for the washboard.  My pencil marks on the keel for the frame locations, every 12 inches in scale, are visible--

 

post-69-0-94516800-1388511555_thumb.jpg

 

 

Wetting and clamping the frames in to set the curve.  After immersing a length of frame stock in boiling water for 20 to 30 seconds, I slowly bend it around the plug.  After that's successfully done (I've lost some material because the wood sometimes doesn't hold together around the sharper curves), I cut the frame piece from the longer length, and transfer it to the hull shell.  Dealing with my fingers and the clothes pins, I can only place a few of these at a time----

 

post-69-0-98413300-1397442511_thumb.jpg

 

 

Since wetting the wood expands the grain, (and it doesn't shrink back completely, or smoothly, when dry), I've cut these a little full.  When dry I'll need to sand them down to about 1/32 inch square--1 1/2 inch in scale, before gluing them in.  

 

Ron

Edited by rlb
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Thanks, John!

 

Here I have all but one of the full frames bent and labeled.  As I did each one I marked a small "x" on the top of the plug to help me remember which I had done as I went along--

 

post-69-0-08075900-1388583739_thumb.jpg

 

 

A comparison between a rough frame and a sanded frame--

 

post-69-0-80517000-1388583739_thumb.jpg

 

 

A few of the frames glued in, and another unfinished frame for comparison--

 

 post-69-0-58691800-1388583740_thumb.jpg

 

 

Carefully sanding a frame, first on the inside, for smoothness.  220, then 320, then 600 grit--

 

post-69-0-21052400-1388583741_thumb.jpg 

 

 

Then scrubbing on flat sandpaper for the sided dimension, 220, then 600.  I ended up leaving the frames about 3/64 inch wide--

 

post-69-0-46300300-1388583742_thumb.jpg

 

 

Then the outside (the face to be glued to the planks) was sanded with a small strip of 150 grit sandpaper to reduce the frame to a final thickness of 1/32 inch--

 

post-69-0-14644400-1388583743_thumb.jpg

 

 

Then the frame can be glued into place.  The clothespins are holding the "pre-bend" of last full frame as it dries.  The frame just glued in hasn't had it's ends trimmed yet--

 

post-69-0-96523200-1388583743_thumb.jpg

 

 

Current progress with all the full frames glued in--

 

post-69-0-67709800-1388583744_thumb.jpg

 

post-69-0-37351100-1388583745_thumb.jpg

 

 

Ron

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