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  1. Hi All, I'm staring a log to show my progress and to get feed back. The model was bought approx. 25 years ago (getting to old for remembering details that far back) at a local bobby shop. I had some model experience before but only plastic, but it look cool and I had high expectations for doing the build in a ferally short time. But the reality came pretty fast. It turn out to be a hell of a lot bigger project that I thought. The instruction was very limited to say the least, only 11 pages with drawings and instruction (in 4 languages). It also turned out that several of the structure was bent. What I've should was return the model and get a beginner model. Well that did not happen. I started building the hull and planking and got frustrated and set it aside for 25 years. Know I'm 25 years older, gotten some more experience and more patience. And want to finish my ship and learn more about ship building. So this is status so far. And here you see one of my challenges, the frame is twisted. So I need to do some visual cheating but compansating on one side to make it look even. Right now I'm waiting for some more planking to finish the hull. I see from other logs that my drawing is quit different in many ways. So will do some more comparing to see if I can pick up some useful tips. I order the Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier and The Armed Transport Bounty (used, they are to expensive new) to help me out with getting through this build. That was before I came across this forum, where there is a ton of information and experienced people.
  2. Well its time for a new build now that ENDEAVOUR is ostensibly complete. My next choice of kit still had to have an Australian flavour so I chose the BOUNTY. Choosing which BOUNTY to buld came down to what I could afford and what was available. I considered the Artesania version but was not keen paying for a single sided planking and open side with interior. I also stumbled upon a sale for Amarti BOUNTY's through Premier Models in the UK so I ordered one and it arrived safe and sound. I was surprised on opening the box at the difference in quality between the Artesania and Amarti kits. The Amarti materials appear and feel much better quality and the use of timber rather than ply for the keel, stem and stern posts, channels etc means one don't have t find a way to mask exposed ply ends. The ply stock itself also appears better quality with far les tear-our/delamination that the artesania material did. I also like the Amarti rigging (blocks, deadheyes, hearts, and parrels parts as these too are timber and not laser cut ply. I also like the Amarti threads even though I would prefer scale rope but it appears that this build may be a commission and will be an out of the box build. So lets get to work: FRAMING: Thank heavens for DAVOSHIPMODELLER on YouTube. He has a playlist for the construction of the Amarti BOUNTY and the identification of kit issues starts at the pre-framing stage. The first big is the location of the Mizzen and the implication that notching the false keel has with the location of Frame 13. The most effective solution is to notch out Fame 13 and then adjust the length of the Mizzen mast down the track. The other main issue is the shape of the false keel stem support and the reinforcing parts on either side. They do not match the plan nor the shape of the laser cut timber stem. Best to fix now before any assembly take place. Other changes made also follow the DAVOSHIPMODLLER experience including cutting out sections in the frames between Frame 11 and 13 and also Frame 14 and 16 to permit planked decks to be installed should one wish to have open hatched on the main deck.
  3. Hi all Well, I decided to re-do this build log, the only thing is the first part will be missing owing to the fact that my old computer packed up working and I lost all the photos and log details of the early part of the build. The old build log was only started after I had got the hull and deck planking done anyway and there was never any photos of this part of the build. Various other parts of the build were completed before the mishap with the computer, so I hope you will all bear with me as I try to recreate this log as best I can. It all started nearly two and half years ago when the Bounty was given to me as a Christmas present. The only other boat kit that I have built is a Bluenose II, so I am pretty green to model ship building. As usual the build began with the bulk heads and false deck, this all went together without any trouble and the fit of all the parts was very good. Once this was complete the carcass was made ready for the planking. Once underway with the planking my problems began, having never planked this type of ship before, I had no idea about how to go about achieving what I was trying to accomplish. In the end it all worked ok, other than where the planks were bent around the bow. These ended up having a clinker affect, which needed a lot of sanding to get a nice smooth end result. In doing this some of the planks became very thin around this area and so I decided to double plank it. (The kit is a single plank construction). The second planking was a lot easier owing to the planks being quite a bit thinner. Next was the deck planking, this went very well and the finish looked good, to me anyway. This was followed by the planksheer, this went on without encountering any problems. This was followed by the gratings and companionways all made up from the kit parts and installed in their respective places. At about this time I decided to deviate from the kit by adding a flag locker and binnacle. These items were not supplied in the kit and so had to be made from scratch using odd pieces of ply and leftovers from the planking. The steering wheel was made up using the kit parts supplied and fitted into its position. Moving on, the knightheads, headrails and the catheads were completed and this brings us to the part of the build where I can show you the pictures of the work completed so far. So here are a few for you to enjoy, more will follow when time permits. Regards Phil
  4. I'll start by saying, I wasn't planning on doing a build log... There are a 15 logs for the same model on MSW already. However, at last check, only one was to completion. The other logs offer a lot of help and information but only as far as they go! So, even though I started the model 3 months ago, I did take pictures along the way and any details I may have left out can easily be found on the other logs. I pledge to keep this log running to the models completion, however long that takes. This is my 4th model and I continue to learn new techniques and ideas. I think that will never stop. There are so many masters on this forum! I hope, someday, to be as capable as them. I am attempting to keep this model as historically accurate as I can based on the plans and the book "The anatomy of a ship : The armed transport Bounty". Additionally, I will be aging or weathering the ship as I build it to give it that "realistic" look. This is the first time I've tried this method and as you'll see it has been challenging but also a lot of fun! Before I start, I'd like to thank several builders that have inspired and unknowingly helped me to this point. Many are still on my favorites list and all have build logs that you may want to reference too: Captain Al Cobr Grendel Rcmdvr Thomaslambo Tim Moore Trig There are probably a couple more that I missed... Okay, lets get started! I didn't bother taking pictures of the box, unpacking and indexing the parts. I'm sure there are plenty of those out there! I found the contents to be of very good quality and I was not missing any parts or components. The scale drawings and picture book are very detailed. The instruction book is probably a bit sparse if you are new to modeling. The picture book helps fill in some of the gaps but frankly, without some of the build logs, it would be very difficult in places. The first few steps are pretty straight forward: 1. Cut out the keel and frames 2. Sand the little tags off and remove the charred layer for better glue adhesion. 3. I chose to stain the frames and keel with a walnut stain, taking care to keep stain away from the areas to be glues. It took two coats to get to the color I wanted. The picture below was taken with just one coat. I purchased (prior to starting this model) a model ship building slip: It has been a great tool for holding the model and I expect to use it throughout the build. Look at the above log for more details... worth every penny! It is extremely important that the keel is kept straight and that each frame is installed plumb and level to the keel. This CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH!! If any of these are off, you'll struggle with it throughout the build. A word of caution... Make sure the table or bench is level too... If it isn't, make note of the difference and ensure that the identical difference is transferred to your model as you build it. As you can see in the pictures above the building slip has an attachment to help keep the frames at 90 degrees to the keel and the frames were leveled using a small level resting on the top of the frames before gluing and taping into place. Each frame was allowed to dry several hours before the next frames was added. More to come later today or tomorrow.
  5. :piratebo5:ok so I thought I would begin a log on the Bounty as their are very few around. I have viewed david's and roman's build of this great vessel a zillion times and hope to do them justice with this effort. due to my interstate work commitments updates maybe somewhat spasmodic but I will do my best. please be forewarned I'm no Damien Parer with a camera though! am going to bypass the usual pics of box contents etc and get into the nitty gritty. here goes..... I always use filler blocks its a little known fact that God created Balsa wood to specifically stop model ship builders from abandoning the project at this stage and on the stern ok heaps more to come just need to see if this worked before posting more. cheers vossy
  6. I spent a lot of time thinking about the measurements for the keel, but nothing really prepared me for the first rough cuts. These are going to be the keel.
  7. Hello, This kit is my last project of the year. This is one of the under $100 kits I purchased on Ebay a few years ago. According to the plans, the kit was designed in 1973, and parts weren't cut by laser. It led me to sawing hell, and made me buy a scroll saw ASAP. I really respect senior wooden ship modelers who didn't use any machines in the 1970s. The experience was so horrible that I won't buy any classic kits again... Not all the problems are solved yet. every part is incorrect due to inaccurate CNC cutting. The center line and mast holes of the decks aren't exceptions. Some sections are difficult to assemble, and most parts, including the frames, don't have specific guidelines, such as distance from the lower keel. They would be enough reason for a member who was a new builder to give up the recent laser cut version of this kit. I didn't stop becaused I knew how to deal with it. I fixed every frame using part plans. I set some guidelines, which weren't in the plan or instructions of the kit. By the way, I guess the proper height of the lower deck may be 85.7mm (or 3.375 inches). I purchased the Amati Bounty 1/60 plan a year ago for scratch build. The Amati's plan is much better than Mantua's in every respects, and gives all the hints for planking that weren't in this kit. In addition, Amati's plan is more similar to the AOTS reference book. If you are newcomer who wants to build a Bounty, I highly recommend Amati kits. There have been some more improvements since the last project. I expanded my workshop to measure and check every aspect of the ship. When I measured planks on the old workbench, I had to carry the ship and measure it by hand. I added a broad table. Now I can measure every height and position of each plank. Finally, I attached walnut blocks to every frame. The frames are not glued until I set them in the proper position, and the walnut blocks forced the frames to the last position I set when I checked and assembled the frames hundreds times. This is it. All the frames are almost perfectly fitted and symmetical. Each frame has an error of less than 0.50mm. This is my best result ever. The keel was bent before I started, but it was stretched as I set each frame properly. At least the paper plans didn't lie. The error of the keel is also less than 0.50mm, which can be easily removed by sanding. With satisfying results, I glued the frames. I'm ready for hull fairing. 😎
  8. Yes yes, yet another Bounty Launch. This will be the third being built at the moment. Allan's at 1:48 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/ Tim's at 1:24 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33565-hms-bounty-launch-by-oakheart-scale-124-%E2%80%93-18th-century-based-on-drawings-from-national-maritime-museum/ And this one at 1:16. As far as I can see these are the first scratch built Bounty Launches on this forum excluding those built for Bounty models. Allan has been asking lots of questions in preparation for his build which has driven much research and given us some facts to work from. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=945945 We have settled on building based on ZAZ7361 with some minor tweaks: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=947122 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33217-bountys-ships-boat-details/?do=findComment&comment=948363 We have each done our own drawings and I have now reached the stage where I can start building in earnest. I have made a few pieces but wanted the jig designed before starting this log. We shall see how it goes.
  9. Well I've been looking around and it would seem theres lots here in the know. I got a screaming deal on the model mentioned above. It was the one I really wanted. I cut out and sanded all the tits off the pieces and labelled each set in it's own clear bag. Got all set and I want to (would love to) hear from those in the know if there's a frame assembly glue that you all have had great success with? I think I'm good to start. Made jig to hold spine straight, and would love to hear. Mainly bout glue, BUT. If there's anything else that would start me off with more success. THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH
  10. Hello all! That's my second wooden model build. The first one was 18th century longboat from Model Shipways. I built a lot of plastic 1/72nd scale planes of WW2, but some day I saw wooden kits and tried to build one and I like it When I worked on longboat I knew that something would be next and searched for new kit to build. I've bought Emma C. Berry from Model Shipways, cause thought that it must be the same good as longboat. In reality I was upset by it. Actually by it instructions and fittings, so poor, not clear and almost no fittings. Then I bought Artesania Latina Botter. Good kit, but very poor instructions and no any word of rigging. But for me it's the most important part, I just like to build models, I'm not specialist, so I need good instruction for rigging. OK, maybe model for future. Then I read about partworks and it looked like a good idea, because in 100 - 140 magazines instructions definitely must be good and detailed. So I bought full set of Eaglemoss Bounty (120 parts) and started working on it. I've chosen Bounty because of it's scale and good price - whole set cost me 150 US dollars, I guess it's very good price. Occre kit, which is the same one costs 450$ in local store. I've started this build month ago and currently I've done 30 of 120 magazine steps. Some photos from previous steps and later I will describe my changes to build process.
  11. Hi All, This is a relaunch of a build log after a “minor” pause of about 10 years! In 2010 flushed with the experience of building Calderscraft’s H.M.Cutter Sherbourne, I felt back then I could tackle something bigger and came across this kit on eBay, started by someone else and abandoned – and no I didn’t pause to think why! So Here we are in 2021 and I have dusted the old kit off and restarted it, making I think reasonable progress, but also relearning the problems and issues I had with the kit that caused me to lose heart in 2011. I have built one other model since, Caldercraft's H.M.S. Orestes (Mars) so I have learnt something along the way, but happily rediscovered MSW to help me this time! As there has been so many years in between I will just post a selection of the old photos I took back then, to give you a flavour of where I got to, then I will update with where I am now. So here is what I bought back in 2010 full of excitement!
  12. A gift from my wife - I started this one a couple of years ago, I've added a little bit of new technology by printing out some of the parts with a 3D printer. Almost done the hull then off to the rigging. Most kits do not come with the fancy gold trim so I modeled my own and printed them up. Like they say - good from far - far from good. I still have lots to learn but I'm having a good time.
  13. It’s a cold rainy night here in north Texas folks. Well cold to us. Only reached 40F today. Expecting the same all week. So no airbrushing for the Arizona until it warms up above 70. What you see pictured above is CorelLine’s SM104. A solid wood hull HMS Bounty kit in 1:130 scale. Corel claims they are beginner kits. Model-Expo delivered her promptly last week. This HMS Bounty kit is my second attempt at wood ship modeling in 25+ years. The first being Constructo’s 1799 Enterprise. Enterprise remains shelved pending the results of this and a few other simpler wood model kit builds. With your help, Frank Mastini’s book and the Sultana Practicum pdfs, I’ll be proud of the completed model. Wish me luck fellow modelers.
  14. Been a looong time since I’ve posted here, but I thought I’d drop in and give an update on my build. I recently dusted her off, found a spot on the work bench and am continuing the build. It’s slow going, just a piece or two a night between diner and bed, but I’m starting to see the slow progress. Excuse the mess, we’ve recently moved and I haven’t arranged everything yet:
  15. Hello and welcome to my build of HMS Bounty by billings boats 1:50 scale This is my second build the first being HMS Victory by Mantua Panart
  16. Greetings folks. It's been a while since I last battled with timber, I got lost in plastic, but I decided I wanted to return to wood. Having learned new skills and improved on existing ones, I felt I could probably do a better job than my previous efforts. And to start with, I wanted to right a wrong on the last ship I completed, HMAV Bounty. On the last one there were a number of errors, most glaringly was the main rubbing strake. It sweeps too low, way too low, at the bow, and it's annoyed me for years. Plus I enjoyed the kit last time, it was a good quality kit with only one minor issue: the length of the centre section of the keel is a few mm too short. Wasn't a problem last time as I coppered the hull as per the kit, I am not planning on doing that this time as it is subject to a lot of doubt as to whether she received that upgrade before leaving Portsmouth (or was it Plymouth?) for the last time. I also invested in some new tools that I didn't have before, and a proper slipway rather than a home made one. Following the general consensus on here I was directed to the Model Shipways one, which I have to say is pretty good. My only gripe with it is it's designed for ships that have the keel already attached, so at the moment it isn't easy to get it to sit level, but that's not an issue at this stage anyway. I also wanted to try a better method of the hard sanding work, using my Dremel and the sanding discs attachement ezclic thingy, and I have to say it makes that job soooo much easier. Anyway, so far I have got the keel/bulkheads assembled, false deck fitted and the majority of the fairing done on the bulkheads. Time to soak some planks and work on the bit I hate the most, planking the hull... Thanks for stopping by...
  17. Well here is the beginning of my first build log with Model Shop World. I have opened the box, read the instructions at least three times and numbered all the precut pieces. As you can see I have started the hull. I think this will be a challenging kit and somewhat unusual as part of the starboard side of the hull will be left open to show the decks, accommodation etc. That is why the hull at the moment looks like fish bones as all the decks have to be assembled at the beginning of the process. This will give sufficient strength (I hope!) to be able to do the fairing of the hull prior to any planking. This has meant that I had to be extra careful to get all the sections completely vertical at this stage. I have to say that so far the pieces have been very well cut making the assembly process thus far reasonably easy. The only slight worry is the transom where the pieces could have fitted better but I hope to sort that out when I come to do the fairing.
  18. Hallo again, this is my first build one year ago, i bought Bounty´s plans by sergal. The frame is made of gabon plywood ( 5mm) , than i put deck in the boiled water and fit to frame and leave it dry for two weeks. After that i plank a deck with lime planks. Distribution planks i made so i cut it and highlighted by pencil. Treenails are made out of walnut wood. I drilled 0.5 mm holes for this treenails. In the beginig of planking i put the planks in boiled water, bend aroud the hull and leave it dry, next day i glue it to the frame. I kinda worked, I'm planks soaked in boiled water for one minute and then stuck. Now working on the surface of the hull. Next Layer i´ll make with lime and mahagony planks. I´d like to start untill one week
  19. So, this is my very first build. I'm a bit lost in places and still trying to figure it all out. I would love some advice about the issues I'm facing. Please excuse my limited ship lingo; I'm still learning but will do my best;). Firstly, the walnut parts of the false keel don't seem to fit together properly. I lined the bottom piece up with the stern piece, but that then left a gap in the middle. I was reading the fixing boo-boo forum and was wondering if the method of sanding down some scrap walnut, mixing it with dilute PVA glue and using it to plug the crack would work? Secondly, the 6th bulkhead isn't level with the top part of the false keel but is in line with the bottom of the ply part of the false keel like the other bulkheads. Is this a problem? If so, how would I attempt to correct it, bearing in mind that my wood-working skill are limitted and I'm learning as I go? Thirdly, as far as planking goes, I've been reading the tutorials and looking at Dan Page's build log of the same model and I'm a bit confused. All the tuts speak about dividing the keel into bands and using stuff like a planking fan, but the instructions on my model just start laying planks from the deck down, no lining off or anything, and then just filling in the resulting triangular stern gaps with stealers. Now I'm not expecting the most prestine or accurate hull out, I am a beginner, but if I follow the instructions on my model, am I going to run into more issues than it's worth? Which method is easier? I've attached photos to illustrate what I'm talking about:).
  20. I decided to add my build log of the AMATI - Bounty 1787 which was my 3rd Build. I jumped from the Lady Nelson to the Bounty and it was tough at times due to lack of instructions that I assumed would be there. I suppose going from a level 2 type kit to a level 4 means that you don't always need the instructions as detailed and that you would already know what to do. Anyway with help from the build logs on NRG and Donny at Ships of Scale, I persevered thru it and about year later happy to have it completed and shown proudly in my entrance hall. Current Build: BlueNose II by Artesenia Latina Previous Builds: Lady Nelson 1:64 - Victory Model Previous Builds: Virginia 1819 1:41 -Artesenia Latina Next Build : Amerigo Vespucci 1:84 - Panart Dry fitting the keel. This re-enforcing needs lots of sanding. Start of Deck Planking Using Balsa wood to round out the bow. Planking starting to take shape Completed First Planking Added Deck and Trim. Completed 2nd Planking and start of waterline and . Lo Deck Filling out. Looking good at this point. Stern Naming Finally Completed. I did not add sails or furled sails which I was considering.
  21. Much has already been written on the subject of the Mutiny on the Bounty, the events & causes leading up to it, the fallout after the fact, and the perilous journey thrust upon Capt Bligh and the loyalists cast adrift. Whilst working on a build of the HMS Bounty Launch recently, one of the questions which arose was what additional items could a builder put into their Launch to add a little touch of historical authenticity. As such, the following has been produced from a dissertation of William Bligh's meticulously kept logs. This is not intended to be a historical study or scholarly review to be added to the already impressive collection of writings on the Mutiny event. My main purpose is to allow modellers of HMS Bounty and/or the Bounty Launch to have a quick reference point whereby they can see what was taken on-board at the outset, and what was collected, found or traded along the way. In this way, I would hope you can select and model any additional equipment for your Launch build. Resources used for this compilation were: "The Bounty Mutiny" - William Bligh and Edward Christian (brother of Fletcher) "A Narrative of the Mutiny, On Board HMS Bounty" - William Bligh "In Bligh's Hand" - Jennifer Gall (Any errors or omissions of fact are mine entirely.) Mutiny Spreadsheet.xml
  22. Open the box! First impressions; Artesania Latina do not appear to have the best of reputations, and on doing research, to find out that the Bounty kit is only single plank on frame rather than the more acceptable double planking, didn't help that reputation. Aparently the manuals weren't up to much either, badly translated for one thing (AL are Italian of course), and I did come across veiled suggestions the kit quality had a lot to be desired. However the ship had already been ordered, a gift from my children, so there was no going back, the box arrived... ...and what an impressive box it was to! 30 x 17 x 2.5 inches (76 x 43 x 7 cms) and heavy with it. On opening the box, I couldn't help but be quite impressed. At the top of the pile was a package containing the manuals (yes two!) and the drawings. The manuals were relatively impressive, the first was a full colour and seemingly very detailed book containing a host of photographs each part in each photograph numbered. The second manual was the instruction booklet (in several languages). Each paragraph in the manual makes reference to each photograph, thereby illustrating every step, but how accurately remains to be seen. So far, quite impressed. I was then shocked to discover how huge the actual scale drawings were! Given the box is 30 inches long, the size of the drawing is indicated in the photograph below. There are three sheets, but each has content on both sides, and very detailed content it appears to be. So far very impressed. Then the rest of the contents. The usual laser cut sheets of different thicknesses of wood, all seemingly excellent quality, and the wooden strips and dowling. It became obvious the ship only has single planking, as the obvious keel planking strips seemed relatively few. The other contents included all the many bits and pieces, all neat and tidy in individual plastic trays rather than plastic bags! I later discovered these trays are actually quite robust and reusable, which should prove very handy. The qualty of the components, especially the turned brass ones, appeared excellent. Still impressed! Eventually I did make a start on the build. As I was still finishing my previous ship, I only undertook this because the instructions recommended, for absolute realism, the first keel items should be stained and varnished before being built, and I could continue with my original ship as this was drying. As it transpired I have elected to paint then varnish, as the stain didn't cover the imperfections of the wood. As the painting / varnishing could be done after the initial bit of build, I did actually commence. The pIeces; false keel and first frames, were removed from their sheet easier than any I have come across before, and the quality seems very good indeed. The frames all fitted into the keel well. Now to paint and varnish. Bryan
  23. Welcome on the build of Revell's Bounty scale 1/110 I got this kit for free from friends who cleaned up their attic. My first idea when I opened the box. Was oops .... On closer examination, it turned out that the model design probably dates from 1956. The mold is from 1978. Therefore the "lesser quality" of the details to current standards. First, i wanted to throw everything away. But it had some trouble with this idea. So why not start on it and try to add some extra details. This will not be an exact copy. My biggest challenge to make this model a bit nicer than what can be made with the contents of the kit. I am not going to buy extra parts, only items and plastic sheet from the parts box will be used. My only experience with plastic ship models dates from my younger years. I have only experience with military models in scale 1/72 So we shall what the future brings. Main goals are : making of a good model and have fun. Info about the ship and voyage https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Bounty Royal museum Greenwich https://prints.rmg.co.uk/search?q=bounty&type=product Info about the Revell model https://www.revell.de/en/products/modelmaking/ships/sailings-ships/h-m-s-bounty.html the deck is equipped with molded on details. Removing all this and making them new is impossible. That's why I make a new deck first Engrave the deckplanks on plastic sheet Add hatches and "grating" (This grating may be replaced later by something else) Opening for a ladder. I dont throw plastic leftover parts away .... A first test to see if the deck fits. and... it fits With 2 Bradley's in the background to be continued, thanks for following.
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