thibaultron

How much is one of your Sea of Galilee kits?

Chris, at least with a broken leg, you can get a head start on escaping your wife!

You can sand the back of the paper, to make it thinner. Model Railroaders do it all the time, to create posters and signs on the side of buildings.

I 'll be watching. Too bad about the plans.

Maybe it depended on which side he was able to take the lines off of.

You might want to add an additional dimension, to one end of the belt, from the CL.

Your welcome.

I tried to use sharpies to darken the edge of the planks for my canon diorama, wrong! The day after I glued the planks down with Elmers, the sharpie ink had run all over the place! I guess long term exposure to water made the ink, not so permanent.

Check out this guy's site. He models cars and Gundums, and has videos on all types of modeling paint reviews. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC_66OBQNO8jXkHjlxnnxT-A

The glass sheet I originally had the drawing taped to is a thick (~10"X 3 foot) plate glass shelf, I found at a thrift store. I wish I'd had the money to buy the other ten or so they had!

I really like the added colors! Great job!

Part 004 Got a little accomplished today. I took the weights off the frame sheet, and the shims had glued down nicely. To prevent the frame pieces from sticking to the shims and frame sheet, I was going to used wax paper, but decided that it was both too thick, and opaque, for the job. Instead I used Scotch tape. First I put a long piece the length of each shim, then cut carefully around the bottom of the shims, pushing the tape end down onto the paper, covering the area that the chucks will sit down on. Then I covered the rest of the bottom of the frame area, leaving a good length sticking up on the ends. I then cut across where the bottom tape crossed over the pieces left from covering the shims. Then, I pulled the cut ends off, leaving only a short area where the taped was double thickness. I noticed that the sheet was not completely flat near the top, so I placed a weight across that area. The parts numbering was a bit confusing, at first, until I examined the parts sheets. 5F-6B4- For instance translates as, Parts Sheet 5F part 6B-4, as shown in the parts diagrams in the book. This picture also shows one of the reasons I scanned the instructions. As I find and remove the parts, I highlight them. As I progress, this will make finding the parts easier, by process of elimination. It will also, hopefully prevent me from ending up with parts left over, when I finish! I still have to cut out the rounded areas left when the parts were CNC routed, so I’ve only cut out the three parts highlighted. I have to figure out how to mount my lighted magnifier lamp “eyes” to the new work bench, as I had to leave off the built in vise at the right hand end, now that the spray booth sits there. The workbench top is too thick, to mount the factory “C” clamp. I’m using a second compartmented box, like the one I put the small parts in , to store the frame pieces, while I’m assembling them, or when I finish for the day. After some consideration I decided that I needed to be able to pin the frame sections in place while the glue dries, so I need to move the frame drawing from the glass plate to a wood base. I did not have any wood that was flat enough for my satisfaction, so I needed to buy another piece. The best type of wood to insure flatness, is butcher block types. I went to Home Depot, and found a 17.5”X 1” thick disk butcher block piece. Even then most of them were far from flat. I went through them and only found three of a dozen or so, that were close to flat. I selected the one that was the flattest, and bought that one. It is still a little bowed, but very close to dead flat, and close enough for this application. So I transferred the frame drawing from the glass to the disk. I also bought a short MDF shelf, that I will cut into sections, and glue sandpaper to. This will give me nice flat surfaces to sand “stuff” on.

How did you blend the brick at the inside corner, by the back door? Did you cut the plaster walls at 45 degrees, or use another method?

It is John's method, I just converted it to a PDF.

The tape adds little support underneath so a strip can still be pulled down and rip the tape. Others may have better reasons.

I would say the extended rip fence, the micrometer stop, zero clearance inserts, and miter gauge extension, as the minimum. Some blades of different tooth counts, are a definite.

If there is no hole, use a Dremel, or similar, with cutoff disks, and attack the collet stub, until there is a hole.

Here I've converted it to PDF, for those who don't have MS Word. The super guide To Serving Blocks.pdf

I down loaded the pages at 200DPI ~3700 by 4000 pixels, and combined them into 2 sheets (at 96 DPI, due to program limits), and cropped them so they came out ~6700 by 2300. If anyone is interested in copies of either the single shots, panarama, or all PM me. I'll explain how to get the hi res download, later today.

I'll be following also! Bruce D, where did you get the original PDF?

However, do double check the numbers against the drawings, for gross errors, to be sure. On my Santa Fe Business car some of the dimensions given were off by a foot or more, over what the drawings showed, and when matched against the photos.

Part 003 Finally got started on the actual model today. I printed out the frame drawing scans, one per sheet, onto cardstock. I measured to make sure the size was correct, then taped the sheet for Frame 6 onto the glass sheet on the workbench. I went through the wood sheets, until I found the two shims needed for this frame. They glue at the tops of the frame drawing. I brushed some glue onto them, put them in place then put weights on each to keep them flat, while it dries. I’ll go back, hopefully, tomorrow, and start on the actual frame construction.

That wax is also excellent for applying to the metal working surfaces, of your wood working tools.\ (table saw tables, scroll saw tables, etc.). It protects them from rust, and does not transfer to the wood, after drying.

Part 002 I did some prep work over the last couple days. I’ve scanned in the frame drawings, so I can print out each as I’m working on that frame. When you build the frames, there are spacers that have to be glued to the plans, so I want to have the printouts, to glue to, rather than the plans sheet. I bought new 5” sanding disks, and new belts for my Delta belt/disk sander. I had a hard time locating them in Home Depot, as the vast majority of the sanding disks, are for the newer tools that mount them using hooks, rather than self sticking ones. They were buried up in one corner, with about 10 times the selection of the hook types. The selection was also limited, the 120 and 220, were the finest grits they had. The belts were also limited to the one package with the three grits shown. I used Goof Off to clean the surface of the aluminum disk, so the new disks would sit flush. I also pulled out the small parts, and I’m glad I did! The bag holding the 20 cannon balls had ripped, and several were floating around the parts box. If I had not noticed this, some of them may have gotten lost as I progressed. As it was, one of them fell out of the bag and rolled off the workbench! As it turned out, it ended up stuck between the back and cushion of my chair. I retrieved it before it fell between them, which was good, as the area under the seam is sealed, and I would have never found it, if it had fallen in. I put the brass balls in a small jewelry can I had, and separated the bags of screws for the frame box, into separate cans as well. I was pleased to see that each of the three screw types, were in separate bags, not jumbled together. The three bags were stapled to one label. I then placed the cans and parts bags into a clear plastic compartment box. Not a lot of progress, but it has been a busy few days for me, so I’m happy to have made some progress. The ripped cannon ball bag, and the label for the screws. The small jewelry cans with the screws and brass balls. The parts in the container. In addition to these, there are the 3D printed corners for the frame box, which were too big to put in this box. Looking at these pictures, reminds me that I have to dig the PE fret out of the box, and put it in a container too, before it gets lost, or bent.