thibaultron

How about a couple of unobtrusive hooks amongst the plaques, then suspend the plans while working, and set them aside when not..

I scan the plans one section at a time, then combine them into a single file. Then import them into my CAD program. The Cad lets me adjust size to correct any distortion, and redraw any sections that are not clear, or slightly different on different sheets. it also allows me to draw any additional details I might make, as well as print any section I need during construction.

The originals get rolled up, and stored in a cardboard or plastic tube, for safe keeping.

As a continuation of the discussion earlier in this thread. I just ordered the Hagasawa 1/16th Camel kit. I'll post on the comparison of the details in the plastic and Model Airways metal parts when it arrives, some time next month. I already have the MA Camel.

1/24th, I built one.

Le Rhone and Clerget Hagasawa 1/8th scale engine builds. you'll have to copy and paste two of them.

https://mbiqmodels.com/2016/03/09/fokker-dr-1-hasegawa-18-part-2-engine/

https://mbiqmodels.com/2014/10/12/sopwith-camel-f1-hasegawa-18-part-1-clerget-9b-rotary-radial-engine/

https://mbiqmodels.com/2014/10/27/sopwith-camel-f1-hasegawa-18-part-2-prop-interplane-and-cabane-struts/

Liquid plastic cement.

I got the two Hagasawa engine kits. The detailing looks good, at least good enough for me.

The Le Rhone 110HP

The Clerget 130HP

A close up of the cylinder and vale rocker arm parts.

Is that the AK 259 REALISTIC WOOD EFFECTS , book?

One source I found, said that the Germans would reuse Le Rhones in the DR.1, if they captured any. Similar to your post.

I broke down and bought one the Hagasawa Le Rhones. Should be here next week. Haven't decided whether to keep or resell the Williams Brothers 80HP model.

When the 110HP arrives, I'll post some pictures of the parts. I also bought one of there Camel engines, its coming from Canada.

Enjoy your vacation!

Received the 1/6th Le Rhone 80HP engine model kit. Unfortunatly the 80HP has the valve pushrods at the front of the crankcase, and the 110HP has them at the rear! Did not notice the difference until after the kit arrived. May have to find a Hagasawa 1/8 Le Rhone kit.

Following this build. As a note, both sparkplug wires should run between the gear and crankcase. The way you have them running, they would be cut when the engine rotates.

Its a nogo on 3D printing the cylinders, for the Le Rhone/UR2 engines. There are 33 fins in a actual 22CM length, and the minimum thickness for the Shapeways detail plastic is ~.5CM for a supported wall/fin, and ~1CM for an unsupported wall, AKA a fin. This is for a cylinder scaled to 1/16th.

A built up PE stack might do it. You would need some combination that comes out to .0163" or .0164" thick for each fin and spacer(s) combination. It comes out to .666 real CM from top of one fin to the bottom of the "gap".

Its in the Micro-Mark catalog.

Thanks from me, also, for this great build! Fantastic workmanship, and the clear explanation of the reasons for each step, it adds much to the interest of the build.

Maybe you could do your own PE. Here in the US, you can buy complete kits for do it yourself PE. Should be able to get them in the EU.

Is the pin in the gun base plastic, or part of another PE? If plastic cut it off, and drill for a smaller pin.

Frank;

  I forget, what period in her life are you modeling her in? As built, present, etc. Did she have power dredge winches, or hand wound?

Did you use Chuck's method to create the volutes?

I insulated mine. Well worth the cost in reduced power bills.

A look at the above picture also answers your shroud question. The shrouds run under the yard, not over it, as in some of your pictures of the model.

A note: Amazon has the "Fokker Dr.I: The Aces’ Aircraft (Legends of Aviation 3D)", 2nd edition hardcover, listed as in stock for about $30 today! I just ordered one

If you have a scanner, scan the instructions, and blow up the pictures. Great work, so far.

For my "stuff", I model it full size, then rescale it when I send it to the printer. I'll have to look into Blender.

My tutorial is intended more to teach how to use SketchUp, rather than as a drafting lesson. I wanted to show a few tricks I'd learned along the way, also.

Here's a shot of a piece of equipment I'm designing for one of my model railroad locos. It is a conversion set to modify a Bachmann 2-8-0 to a Santa Fe prototype. I could have built it long ago, but enjoy the challenge of CAding/3D printing it. If it works out I plan on making it available to others. It's an oil bunker for the tender, with a new dome for the locomotive. The second dome is for me to trial fit first, so I don't ruin the "good" one.

One thing that will come out of it is a set of accurate oil fill hatches for Santa Fe locos. Most production models have incorrect ones, even the Brass locos. I have several tenders that I need to upgrade. Also the 2 tool boxes are missing on most SF loco models. I will have to stretch/shrink some of the dimensions to fit each loco, but I have the basic models to start with.

It may be too complex, with all those rivets on the side, but I'm interested in seeing if it works.