thibaultron

It doesn't look like much now, but here is the rough 3D CAD "Clothes Horse" I drew to start my rigging plan. I'm going to draw in the lines as I find them using the photos I found.

 

 

The red is a very rough representation of the hull, the green the spars, and blue masts. The orange points are the bitts on the hull, and the black the traveler.

 

No progress on the model itself, but I did find several pictures of restored Sinagots online. The most useful search was for "Jolie Vent" a restored boat originally built in 1958. Several pictures that will help me figure out the rigging. I also ordered " Sinagots : Histoire d'une communauté maritime en Bretagne " a book on the Sinagots. Its in French, so hopefully it will have lots of pictures! I may have to scan it in and use google to translate it!

 

I did find out that the boats were used in protected waters, and had no dedicated stays or shrouds. The sails are set so that the foresail is always raised on the Port side, and the main on the Starboard. When running into the wind, one of the sails billows against its mast. The boats generally had black hulls and were differentiated by the color of the railing.

 

There is a wooden kit in 1/20th scale, but I can only find it from one supplier, and will stick with the Heller one.

 

There is a nice video of "Jolie Vent" at

 

The polyester also uses the heat of the reaction to set, and in thin sections may not harden well. One one of my Combat Warship models, I had to put the hull in the hatch of my car and park it at work so that the sun shone in all day. It took several days to finally set fully. The car stunk to high heaven for a week, but my hull was ready.

Great workmanship. I hope mine comes out half as nice.

Sinagot Fishing Boat – Heller – 1/60 – Plastic - Small

 

PART 6

 

After much delay I am one again working on the Sinagot!

 

I bought some new Stynylrez Primer. I had gray, but wanted to get at least their new (since the last time I bought the gray a couple of years ago) Red Brown, to use as the anti-fouling bottom paint. While looking at Amazon, I found a three pack of Gray, White, and Black, also, so bought that to. I'll used the white for the railing (painted white in the box art), and the interior, which is a light blue, then the gray for the rest of the parts.

 

 

Here is a shot, from Part 4, of the box art, on the front of the box, showing the white railing. This picture varies from the next and the instructions, in that the hull interior is shown as natural/tan.

 

 

The next picture, also from Part 4, is from the back of the box. It shows the light blue interior, as per the instructions, but with the railing in black. I chose the white railing for my model. I'm also going to go with the Main Sail Traveler in black, like almost all iron work on ships, and the rudder pindles and grunions the same color as the surrounding area (black above, anti-fouling below).

 

 

I had already washed the parts down to remove molding and skin oils. This is a very important step with the new acrylic paints. After that you need to always wear plastic, latex, etc. gloves while handling the parts, until painting is completed. I stored the washed parts in a clean covered cardboard box, until I was ready to paint. After painting I left them in the spray booth to dry. The booth has a removable front cover to keep the dust out.

 

I just painted the outside of the hull and the rudder, with the Red Brown primer. I taped off the railing area, for its later coat of white primer.

 

Below is a picture of the hull and rudder sitting on the painting turntable. The turntable is one I modified from a two tier plastic one I found at a yard sale. I cut off the tube connecting the upper and lower tiers, and made some rough round cardboard covers for the lower tier. I just traced the outside of the tier onto a collapsed mailing box, which was made with thin cardboard, and added three tabs that fold down over the sides, so that I can tape a cover in place. I cut through both layers of the box, giving me two covers when finished. Of course, as it is illegal to use the USPS boxes for other than mailing “stuff”, I always save and use only the ones from packages that I receive in the mail, right.

 

 

I used the turntable for the hull, and held the rudder using the clothespin when painting.

 

I used my 35 or so year old Badger 250-1 airbrush for the primer coat. The double action brushes produce too fine a line for easy coverage of large areas, which even this small hull constitutes. While external action brushes like this brush (and this one is a very kludgy cheap introductory design) generally give a rough surfaced coat of paint, compared to even a spray can, the Stynylrez smooths out nicely as it dries. I will say though that this is the first airbrush I bought, and the one that showed me I could use one, and get a better finish with the old enamel paints, than with brushes. It also showed me that the airbrushes could be cleaned without the Herculean effort always talked about in the magazines of the time.

 

You may ask, “What is wrong with just taking more time and using the double action brush, or a quality external mix brush?” The answer is over spray and the temptation to pull the airbrush back to get a wider line. Especially the later, as pulling back from the surface gives the paint more time to dry, before it reaches the model, and can leave a rough powdery surface. I learned this from a YouTube review, that unfortunately the address for is on the hard drive of my dead desktop. When I finally get a new computer, and can get to the content on those hard drives, I'll post the address here.

 

 

Here is the painted shot and then one after I removed the tape.

 

 

 

 

On a side note, I found as couple of spots on the hull after I finished cleaning the airbrush! I'd accidentally sprayed a few drops of either water, or cleaner on the hull! I resprayed those areas with the double action brush, and will, from now on, move to another area to clean the equipment!

 

 

After a couple days to allow the paint to fully dry, I'll mask off and paint the rail and interior, in the white primer, as well as paint the top of the rudder, that was shaded by the clothespin.

 

 

 

Also each Captain setup the rigging on his ship as suited his "ideal" setup, so each ship had some variation, even from captain to captain.

I understand it has at least a 5 year shelf life.

I haven't given up on this build. I tested my airbrushes, and practiced some with them. I had to order new primer, and it came the other day. Hopefully Sunday I can shoot the first part of the primer on the model. I'm starting with Red-Brown on the outside of the hull, then I'll switch the next day to gray for the railing and interior, as well as the masts.

 

I bought 2 oz. Red-Brown, White, Gray, and Black Stynylrez primer (the last three came as a set that was $2.00 cheaper than the single Red-Brown!). I bought them from Amazon, for a good price. I have found it better than the Vallejo Primer. It sets overnight and has better sandability. Even with my external mix airbrush the initial rougher surface (compared to a double action brush) smoothed down as it set. The best brush I found for priming large areas was my old Badger 250-1 plastic airbrush I bought about 35 years ago, it gave the best large area coverage. The double action brushes had too small a line to effectively cover several square inches of scrap plastic.

 

I'll likely used just the Red-Brown primer as the anti-fouling coat, rather than add another layer off topcoat, unless it looks too light. I'll use the Vallejo paints for the rest of the model.

Watch this video for tips on airbrushing. Is is a talk given by the owner of Badger Airbrushs at a Gaming Convention.

 

 

Frank, sorry to hear that you are having such difficulties! Hope that they will clear up soon!

Welcome aboard!

Today I washed down the hull and masts, in prep for painting later this week. My air compressor hose was damaged, and I have to buy a new one Wednesday when I get paid. I also washed down the Japanese house boat I'm building.

Your welcome!

Here is the entry from my "Carrie Price " build, which I hope to restart soon.

 

Part 22

 

I guess I owe Pyro an apology. At the beginning of this build, I commented that the casting they made for the furled, or as it turns out being furled, main sail was incorrect. I think I used a stronger comment. Because I'm used to modern sailboats, I said that they had cast the angle of the leading edge, in the wrong direction, as it angled away from the mast.

 

They had it right!

 

The foot of the mainsail is laced to the boom in such a fashion that it cannot side forward as the sail is lowered. With the steep rake of the mast, the leading edge would jam as the sail was lowered. I have not worked up the geometry for this, I'll take their word for it.

 

To solve this problem, the lower part of the sail is not directly laced to the mast hoops. Instead there is a rope that runs between the sail hanks and the hoops. I'm not explaining this well but the drawing that will follow should clear it up.

 

As the sail is lowered this rope is loosened and the leading edge can pull away from the hoops, letting it slide back.

 

This detail was from the Skipjack Kathern documents shown earlier in Frank's post.

 

Detail A shows how the lower part of the sail is attached to the hoops by a rope running between them and the hoops. Detail B shows the upper hoops laced directly to the sail.

 

So Pyro’s casting with the lower part of the sail pulled away from the mast, as it is being lowered, is correct.

Interesting basically

 

The jib has only a partial boom, so this is not a problem. It is hanked directly to the stay.

 

Learn something new every day.

 

The explaination in the book, which unfortunetly I did not note down the location of, did not explain it clearly, only that that was the reason for the pendant.

I'm going to try and refind the passage.

 

Thank you Chuck for all you do for the hobby! I'm going to be saving up for this kit. I'll wait until the regular kit release though. My shop will not be ready for the group build, and I already have 3 ships in various stages that I need to at least get a couple finished before I could start on this one.

Frank

You may have to unstring the lower mast hoops. The reason they are attached with a pendant on a real Skipjack, is that as the sail is furled, the fore edge of the lower sail pulls back from the mast, as the boom is lowered. The pendant is released so that that section of the sail can pull away from the mast and not tear.

Sounds crazy, but I found this tidbit when researching for my Pyro Carrie Price model. The partially furled cast sail for the model shows this, and I thought that they had made a mistake, nope, that's how the actual sails furl. See the lower part of the partially furled sail on the box art below. Not sure why this is, but that's how it works.

 

Thanks for the informative video!

I haven't abandoned the build. I'll restart after we get back from Florida.

Abe Books has several reasonably priced copies of Mays book "The Boats Of Men Of War"

Chuck; Perhaps the Tick Marks could be laser etched on either the inside or outside scrap, and drawn onto the frame by the modeler, before they remove the frame from the waste wood. Rough drawing below.

I have thoroughly enjoyed watching your restoration, and learned much from your techniques! A well done restoration, and instructional build!

Thanks everyone for the Likes and encouragement.

The Syren blocks I ordered have come in 2mm and 3/32 single and doble blocks. Man are they tiny! I'm going to check the blocks on some of my 1/96 kits. I may have to move to a larger scale for future builds!

 

There will be a delay before I continue on this build. There is a couple I know that are building a new home, and just found out that the husband has cancer. The trailer they have been living in leaks and he will not be able to move back into it, after Chemo, due to mold issues. I am helping them to finish the house, so they can move in.

 

The local inspector, is being a real butt. Everything has to be just so, or he rejects it, not so a typical most times, but he keeps saying, "No one can build their own home now a days.", then he gives them a list of "Recommended" builders!

When I first started as an engineer in 77, we had a computer that had a Removable Hard Drive. The drive housing came in a crate about 2X2X6 feet! The removable portion was about the size of a cake holder, the ones you put a finished cake in. The "This Side UP" labels were about 4" square and had a hollow Arrow symbol On the frond was a clear tape, and inside the arrow were red foam beads along the bottom. If the crate was tipped on its side or upside down, the beads would flow downhill, and get stuck on the tape. There was two labels, one at each end of the crate. Thus we could tell if it had been mishandled during shipping. One day a drive came in with one of the arrow labels installed upside down. Our boss saw the label, with the beads stuck on it, and without checking the other label, or the other printed "This Side Up" labels painted on the crate, called the shipper, and cussed them out! Only later did he tell us about it, at which time we pointed out that that label, was upside down, not the crate!