thibaultron

Ebay has the Horico dental sanding strips

In one of the other threads, someone mounted his hull on an angled base, and drilled with a drill press. That is the method I'll use in the future.

Just shapeways, for now. A 3D printer is on the list, but I need to finish my shop renovation first.

I use SketchUp as my main 3D software, with DesignCAD as my drafting software. I have a thread on going from 2D to 3D that I did last year, in the forum, see my signiture below. What you can print, depends on the size of the parts. I was able to 3D print hand powered oyster dredge winches, about 3 X 2 foot, in 1/64th scale, but not the pipe dredge frames.

For Shapeways the minimum floor/wall thickness, in their Frosted Detail plastic is .3mm, with wire minimum about 3X that thick. Long thin parts have a tendency to warp.

I've also printed HO scale steam locomotive tender frames, in one of their cheaper plastics, and oil hatches for the tender tank top.

I have both his rigging books, great resource!

Manual tracing works best. There are NO bitmap to vector tracing programs that work well enough for modeling!

Nice idea!

For the less machine tool gifted, how about stacked disks, alternating large and small dia.?

I think the "temp" label refers to the bolt pointed to by the arrow. The outer timbers may be free floating, and serve only to tie the side and transom planking together at the corner.

I bought several, years ago. I'll have to go back and look through the files. Thanks.

Which Lanck rigging practicum has the seizing tech. you mention?

May they rest in peace!!

The frames were out by 1/16", or 2" in real life. I don't doubt that this may not have been true on the real boat, and probably fixed in much the same way.

Years ago while living in MD. I read an article on a local large wooden boat builder, one of the last in the area. He said that all the boats he built, and all of the ones he knew about were asymetriacal by a fair amount, that modern ship builders would be surprised by. The nature of wood construction.

Looks like a good book, ordered one. Thanks!

In model railroading we have a saying. "There is a prototype for everything!" We also have a saying, "Never put a window in a chimney!" A couple weeks ago I posted this picture, on my Railroad Forum:

When I was a teenager, I passed this house everyday going to school, and just looked it back up on GOOGLE Maps. Having said that, you also have to consider your viewer. Sometimes making a model realistic, can also make it look odd, or unfinished. In the end, however, it is up to you, what you want in your model.

Thanks!

Nice work! Looks like a fine delicate spider web.

BTW. I have the HMS Alert kit from the same manuf. The smaller 1/96th scale, non laser kit.

The only thing about the kit, is I would reca0end not applying the copper tape. A US/Colonial ship of that period, was unlikely to be coppered. The British were just starting to copper their warships about this time (1780). Coppering was very expensive, and experimental at this stage. A private builder was unlikely to be using it.

I will be following this build. I love the Baltimore Clipper type ships!

It will likely be Mon. before I can start. Have to work the next 3 days.

I'll read through the whole thing in the next few days.

What a wonderful resource! Thanks for your effort!

My thoughts on the paint/no paint options. If you were building a plastic model of, say a model "T", or a ship, would you leave it the raw plastic color, or would you paint it? I would leave the wood parts with a clear coat, and paint the other parts the correct historical colors.

They make stuff you can brush on rotten wood trim to harden it. Then you use filler to restore the surface. This has fungicide in it. It is thin and soaks into the wood. Maybe these compounds would work. I think one brand was Dr. Wood.

For the problem that the surface in contact with the balloon/bag is smooth, perhaps cover the "mold" with similar cloth, apply the paint/epoxy, etc., let it set then spray it with some sort of mold release. After that put the real sail on. that way the mold surface would be textured, not smooth, and both sides of the sail would be textured.