jwvolz
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Everything posted by jwvolz
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Nice to see a POB II build on here. She's a nice looking vessel. Good luck with your build. -
Foot ropes are done. I still need to do a wrap or two of thread around the spars at each stirrup to make it look as if they are actually wrapped around the spar, and not a wire. The stirrups are simply 28 gauge brass wire which have a small eye formed in the end by wrapping around a drill bit. I then wrapped and glued thread around the spot where the wire doubles back above the eye to better hide the fact that it is wire. The foot ropes themselves have been brushed with very diluted white glue to hold their shape. No updates for a bit, as college visit for my son tomorrow, and then I am off to Germany for a week plus for work. Hopefully by Domanoff serving machine arrives by the time I return!
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Definitely don't put Alclad over the acrylic Tamiya, you risk blistering it. I haven't used the Vallejo, but since it is acrylic at least you won't have compatibility issues.
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Painting photo etch.
jwvolz replied to bluenose2's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
If you have an airbrush, that would be best as it puts down the thinnest coat of paint. If not, several thinned, light brushed coats will work, just enough to cover. You don't want to hide the fine detail. -
I have all of the blocks now attached to the yards. Seizing and stropping blocks is one of my least favorite modeling tasks, but eventually I get into a rhythm and the pace picks up. Caldercraft's plans are pretty clear and easy to interpret as to the block quantities and locations, including pendant lengths. I guess it's on to the footropes now, while I patiently continue to wait for my serving machine from Domanoff Workshop to arrive.
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Watched the video on your blog Alexey. The flickering lights look great!
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For the red ochre I would add yellow in addition to black to a basic insignia red commonly available in model paints. If you just go black it will go to much to the blue side. I've used some of the various RR colors such as CP Yellow form (now discontinued) Polly Scale. Look at the Badger Modelflex line of paints, they have the RR colors.
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Another thing to consider is most smaller blocks need the groove for the strop filed deeper. It takes a little time but I tidy up very block this way, as well as reaming out the sheave hole .
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Thanks everyone.. Grant: Not at this point. I already have a number of the kit blocks installed in various places that would make it difficult to change at this point, and mixing wouldn't look so good. My next build will either have Chuck's blocks, or I'll be making my own. With the amount of time I am spending cleaning up the kit ones I can better us my time on the next one.
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Well now that my work area is complete, I've actually gotten back to work on Granado. I've spent the last week or so constructing all of the yards, gaffs, and booms, as well as the ensign and jack staffs. Now on to horses, blocks etc... Speaking of blocks...I also spent some very tedious time last night rounding off blocks; got all of the 5mm, 7mm and sister blocks done. and re-stained. I'm not looking forward to the smaller ones...
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Nice to see an update Ian. Great work on the stove. She's coming along nicely.
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Alan, What I usually do is put a dot of CA at each end of the plank and then PVA along the length. The CA locks it in place without pins or clamps while the PVA is setting.
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Congratulations Max, very well done. Look forward to following your Endeavour build.
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double planking a hull
jwvolz replied to pugman11's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Many builders want a POB look with individual planks visible, but most double planked kits have too big a span between bulkheads to be easily single planked. Double planking also offers those that prefer a "second chance" to rectify errors on the first planking. -
Nice solid base for the next layer there Mike. Nice job.As Spyglass said, you can sand the heck out of that first layer.
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Jim, It took a little time, since there are so many drawers, but no issues with assembly, and there were the proper quantity and type of screws and such. Did you take it up with Ikea? They're usually very good about those kind of things.
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Thanks guys. I wasn't 100% sure on going with those white tabletops Brian, but my wife talked me into it, since they're brighter, easier to see what I'm doing. If they get messed up with spills and stains in a few years I won't beat myself up about replacing them because they aren't very expensive.
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OK, bit of an update, but not really on Granado itself. I've pretty much completed my renovation of my hobby room, which has kept me from working on the model for a few weeks. I have new tables and a great storage cabinet that made it so easy to organize all my tools, paints, supplies etc... I have significantly more room now. Everything is from Ikea; I just love their stuff and they have so many great cabinets like the one I bought. As I mentioned above, this is the area where my N scale train layout was located, and it has nice overhead lighting. The only issue was the bulbs in the fixtures were halogen, and I was absolutely baking under them. I bought LED replacements for big $, but there is now zero heat coming off the lights, and the bulbs should last longer than me... Still a few things left to finish up, and I need to reserve a space in there for my Domanoff serving machine that is on its way. When that arrives I can get to work on starting the rigging. New work space: Old work space:
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I have this one from Micro Mark. It is great for smaller work, and is compact and quiet. http://www.micromark.com/microlux-mini-scroll-saw-for-hobby-use,7114.html
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Nice job Mark, that finished up nicely. I'm looking forward to seeing more as you progress, as I'm a big fan of the POB. Hopefully 2015 is a better year for you.
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Well, the Domanoff one is actually purchase number two. I bought the one from Flagship Models and was really disappointed in both the quality and functionality. Big waste and it went in the trash. I should have just gone with Alexi to start with... That's what I get for trying to save some money!
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Catharpins look good to me Wayne. They're a tricky little thing. You're pulling away again, as I'm now delayed another week or so on progress as I wait for my Domanoff serving machine to arrive...
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Drop planks and stealers are certainly acceptable Mike. A really nice inexpensice book to get a hold of from Model Expo is Planking The Built Up Ship Model. It gives some nice insight into real-life practices, and includes spiling information. That being said, I wouldn't sweat much on under-planking, it really just serves to give you a good base for the second.
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It all depends upon what you plan to use it for. I have a nice Canon DSLR, but photography is one of my hobbies. I also have a moderately priced point and shoot for when I don't want to haul around the DSLR. I can and do use the macro feature on both. I find my iPhone more than sufficient for build log photos, but beyond that I don't use it for anything remotely important. It will generally get close enough for my simple documentation photos.
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