Jörgen

12 hours ago, mtaylor said:

Jörgen,

Feel free to do your builds as logs in this area.   We'd love to see how manage to get the results you have shown.

 

Ok i will try to do it. But I will do it in this thread if it is ok. The reason is that I have started some bulldogs for plastic kits in the past but I have never finished them. The reason is how I build. Many times I start a kit and build half of it and then it ends up on the shelf for a lot of different reasons. It is much easer to do pure bulldogs for the wooden ships. But to be honest, I have to many projects ongoing at the same time....and I change between them all the time.

 

So here I will keep a blog or whatever it is called for my builds in for plastic kits. I will start to show my working place if you don't mind. Some of you might think I am crazy over how much I have but the reason is that almost all of it is collected more or less in a lifetime. I have collected things but never actually used them because of lack of space, work etc. But 12 years ago we bought a house and suddenly there were a place to put everything. Most of the time since then have been in fixing the house. But now everything is finished and our children starts to be little older (8 and 11) so there will be more free time to put in the hobby. 

 

So let's jump in to it, here is my "Man cave" in the basement. Please ask questions about anything so can I explain it here, things that I use, how I use them etc. But just to be clear, there are a lot of better model builders on YouTube than me. 

 

Here is my room. I always have a totally mess when I build. It doesn't matter how much I try to put things in order, it just ends up in the same way. But after all, that is one of the rules in the universe. Everything try to go to chaos and the lowest energy state

Here is my ship building place will all the machinery. The model on the shelf is Billing Boats Vasa that I want to build with the "old painting scheme" suggested by Björn Landström. The reason is that I really like that scheme and have grown up with it even if it is not correct. Here I can aslo mention that I always build what looks ok for me. I don't care at all for historical correctness. This helps me when I destroy decals and then just choose another number or whatever

DeAgostini Vasa on the floor with ongoing first planking. I am very slow on this. This kit will have the proper painting scheme. 

Her is my station for the plastic modeling and other detail work. Some kits waiting on the shelf to be build.....

I bought the big color sets from Vallejo many years ago and they are still working fine. Here are the model Color range and other tools that I use. My Sherbourne can aslo be seen down in the picture. 

Vallejo model air range. I don't use them any more because of lacquer paints but they are perfect for my children.

 

The paints from my childhood....I never use these any more. But the memory in a tight room with enamels are still there....

My precious MRP paints! These paints were/are the game changer for me. More to that later in the builds.

More laqures I try to play with. I like the Mr Color range since they are close in shades to MRP. The Ak real color is a good color but I still can't understand their approach to the shades. The actually released two really good books when they introduced the color range. But the colors are not same as in the book. 

These two brands are actually a very good complement to MRP since I paint with these first and then MRP as last step. This to give variation in the paint. More to this later. Here are also my old tamiya paints that I use very seldom. 

Here is my spray cabinet that I have connect so the fumes is venting to the outside. This is also a game changer in using hot stuff. But I still use a gasmask when I spraying much. As you see I use a Harder Steenbeck Infinity airbrush that I bought many years ago.

One of the ongoing projects that I will start to cover in this log have it seems checked.

 

Another ongoing projects....

Bismarck 1/350

Some ongoing airplanes...

And more ongoing airplanes and some tanks..

And here are what I am working on at the moment so let this "new"log start here:

 

1/32 Spitfire MkII by Revell and 1/48 P47 Thunderbolt by Tamiya

The P47 is out of the box but I have the etch cockpit set from Eduard to the Spitfire

And this is how far as I have come. Im just glued all major parts togheter and now I am working on the cockpit. The cockpit is just assembled and painted with black primer and the MRP RAF interior green. I am working to attach the photo etc.

So let's start it from here.  I will post updates on what I am doing and the subjects will change often. I hope that will be ok with all. And also sorry for my English, it is far away from good but I don't care. I thin you understand it anyway even if it is Swedish/English 

 

Jörgen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great  Please give feedback if the movie was ok. 

This is a BF109 E4 that was shout down during the Battle of Britain. The pilot Franz von Werra had a quite special history that I recommend to read. This is my last model up to date so I will post here more seldom. But when I have something finished, you will se it. I really hope you enjoy these kind of photos.

 

Model: BF 109E4 

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Eduard

Extras: None
Colors: MRP

 

 

 

Wow, that was a very good looking tempest, and also the classic JF E

 

And I also checked your Card Wildcat build. It looks really good and for me you are really good at it. I have never seen this side of the hobby before.

I have never tried a card model. How is that compared to plastic or wood kits? 

Pierre Closterman was shot down by the end of the war in his Hawker Tempest by Hans Dortenmann who according to the book was little of a Tempest specialist. (Pierres Hawker Tempest is waiting on the shelf to be built)

This is Dortenmanns FW 190 D9 at the time of the air victory. I really like the color shades of the late war RLM 76/81/82.

 

Model: Focke Wulf 190 D9 

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Tamiya

Extras: None
Colors: MRP

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of my first and most read book about air battles during WW2 is "The big show" by Pierre Clostermann. I can highly recomend to read the book. This is Pierres Spitfire Mk IXc LO-D when he just has landed in France shortly after D-day. It will come more Clostermann related planes further on. The kit is Eduards superb Spitfire.

 

Model: Supermarine Spitfire MK IXc 

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Eduard

Extras: None
Colors: MRP

 

I did the same on my Endeavour. First use the sand sealer. Then I used Tamiya plastic putty several times and sand it down between the layers. The result were perfect. I even paint it afterwards with water based Vallejo model color. No problem att all.

Now is it time for the first spit. Enjoy

 

Model: Supermarine Spitfire MK1a 

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Tamiya

Extras: None
Colors: MRP

 

Now back to 1:48 again. This time it is a Hurricane MK1 with metal wing. This time I tried the Mr. color range instead of MRP for the RAF colors. It is crazy how much the shades differ from brand to brand for the same color. In MRP:s case it also differ in batches..

 

Model: Hawker Hurricane MK1 

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Airfix

Extras: None
Colors: Mr. Color 

 

  

 

Now will here come a real gem as a kit. If you haven't tried Eduard's 1:72 range I really recommend it. The detail is very good even if the plane is small.

 

 

Model: Fw190 A8

Scale: 1:72
Manufacture: Eduard

Extras: None
Colors: MRP 

 

 

 

Here is the first 1:72 kit. As you se I have stared to do these in flight mode. The pictures are bigger than the kit

 

Model: Hurricane Mk1

Scale: 1:72
Manufacture: Airfix

Extras: None
Colors: MRP 

 

Next is a Yak3 and here I experimented long time to find a good locking way to make to make a stand so I can build the planes in flight mode. I ended up to using a cheap round tree base and a stainless steel welding wire. In my opinion it looks clean enough. I will do this for all my 1:72 airplanes in the future. This experiment is in 1:48. 

 

Model: Yak 3

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: Eduard

Extras: None
Colors: MRP 

 

Hi again.

 

I haven't post anything here for a while but I have continued to build. So it is my intention to catch up on what I have been doing. I hope you like the photos and objects. I will try to do it in the right time order. So first out is one kit were i was trying to do winter camo that starts to wear off:

 

Model: Lagg 3

Scale: 1:48
Manufacture: ICM

Extras: None
Colors: Mr Paint, Tamiya

 

 

 

Hi again. A small update. The planking is on its way again and I thank you again Hubac for slowing me down so I could see and correct my mistakes. The lines of the hull looks better now. It is still not perfect but the rest will I fix with sanding and filler before the second planking layer.

 

  

I just couldn't resist it. I just had to try to make a small part that included cutting brass, silver soldering and blackening of metal. I have never done it before but thanks to all of yours excellent explanations in this forum I had a clue how to do. 

I decided on the swivel mounting pintle and according to the drawings in the Alert book this part have a interesting shape with 8 sides. It also have a Iron hoop on the top.

So I took a 4 mm walnut rod and put it in my dividing attachment for the Proxxon milling machine. This was also the first time I tried to use this divider. For the milling I used the 3mm cutter. 

 

 

I started to mill and form the mounting pintle. I milled a side, then choose another degree and milled that side. It was so easy to do with the divider.

 

And in no time I had a perfect 8 sided swivel mounting pintle.

 

A brass sheet was glued to a piece of wood and in this way did I manage to cut a 0.7 mm strip. I used superglue but I am open to suggestions of a better glue for this work.

 

 

I found the perfect tool to shape the 8 sides of the iron hoop and this was the smallest Tamiya photoetch bender. 

 

Then I managed to silver soldering it together. This was easier than I thought. I used soldering  paste and a torch. 

 

I made the Iron hoop little smaller than the pintle so it would get the right look and fit well. For this it was necessary to mill out the form for it but again this was easy to do in the milling machine. I took away another 0.1 mm wood.

 

And he hoop in place.

 

The hoop was blackened with Birchwood Casey blackening solution. Again this went well since I know how to do thanks to you all. I oiled the walnut (it will be colored black later) and mounted the hoop. 

Here is the result of my first try of this kind of work and I am more than happy over the result. 

 

Thank you Tony, good to be back 

 

Hi everyone. It was long time ago since i post anything here about my Sherbourne. The reason is that I didn't had the time to put focus on my models. However, now i feel that the time have come again to take up the hobby. It has not been totally down, I have manage to build some 1:48 airplanes during the time. But now have i started both my Vasa build and my Sherbourne build again. So here is a what I have done.  

My shape of the Sherbournes hull is not exactly the same as in the kit so I had to do new ones with the correct form. Also the supplied parts are of laminated wood and as stated before, I don't like it at all.

 

So here are I drawing the the exact shape on a sheet of better wood.

 

Here is the shape missmatch between my Sherbourne and the kit part. This is most probably because of lack of experience from my side during the planking work.

 

Then I cut it out and copied it to get two exactly same parts.

 

I formed the edges of the handrails with the tool suppled in the Vasa kit.

 

It was not easy to attach the handrails to the kit. So i drilled holes and pined them down with brass rods. It will be ok later because i will add filler and sand it all down. The rails will be painted black later.

 

Then i formed the stern part of the handrail. This part had to be bended to fit.

 

All rails glued in place.

Now I must do sanding work before I start to do the timberheads and swivel gun pedestals. When these are finished then will I paint and oil everything to get it in right finish.

 

I was probably little bit unclear in my question. The thing was that there were so many frames that was of in both directions (to small or too wide, you can see this on the photos how the frames are compare to the false deck) so it was very difficult to decide what the proper form actually were. However I have taken the decision to follow the form of the false decks and sand down frames that are to wide. This gives me a shape that is much closer to drawing from the Vasa 1 book that I have. These issues were most in the stern. The part were you told me to put more effort still needs to be filled up. I am working on that now.

It still confuse me that the frames were so off in such a new kit were cad and laser cut should make it simple to get it right. But I am probably to used to Eduard and Tamiya plastic kits were everything just fit

Hi again.

 

Hubac got me to take a step back and look more carefully on the framing and now am I little bit confused (see photos). Shall the planking following the framing or the false decks? If i follow the framing so must i fill upp many of them and if i follow the decks so must some of them be tapered quite much. Whatever I do so will it have big impact on the shape. There are no drawings in the kit and the instructions are not good in this case because it is hard to see how it looks like. 

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Baker said:

The hull of billings vasa would be quite correct.
do you have those plans?. Otherwise I can send them to you via pm.

Thank you very much for your offer Patrick but I already have the plans. 

Thank you all for the comments. I will try to replace all the visual plywood with real wood later. Also there will be a second layer of planking.

I have now reworked the second line of planks and i think this looks better. I will add material plank by plank since it looks like it is not the hole bulkhead that needs material. The second plank line are wet and is just pinned to the bulkhead to get the shape. I will glue them tomorrow and then remove and rework the first line of planking. What do you think, is it to much now or is it as it should be? 

 

 

 

Hi again.

 

The lines of the hull make me confused. If you look on the photos below there are a "straight" line in the hull in the middle were the ruler are. There are a very small decrease on the left side of my Vasa. But the question is. Will the hull be straight here or will it have a small curve? The last photo is from Billings Vasa and it is also straight here. Any inputs on this?

 

Thanks for the comment. You have right. I will take a extra look on this. I was little bit puzzled over this yesterday on how it will be. I have read somewhere that there might be a regression there, but I might be wrong.  This has also been an issue in the other build logs for this kit. Some of the bulk heads are very off on the same place. (See the Vasa log by Puckotred).

 

Hi all! 

 

It is some years ago i did the last upload here, 6 years.... But the build has never been cancelled. It has only been on hold because of other things in life. However, I feel that now is the time to take up the model ship building again. So here is a short update my Vasa just to show that I have started on the build again. The areas where the gun ports will have been sprayed with black color.

 

  

 

I have also already started to be annoyed on the fragile upper parts of the bulk heads that breaks all the time........

 

But I found the solution to prtect them with my childrens old wood toyes

And as you can see on the photos the planking has started!

 

This is all for now but at last I am on the way!