Landlubber Mike

Wow, this is really incredible. Absolutely stunning work. One day hopefully I'll have half that skill Sorry if I missed this earlier- is this 1:64 or 1:72 scale?

Thanks for the kind thoughts Aldo, I really appreciate it

Coming along really nicely Skippy - the maple came out great.

I hear you Frank. With the furled sails, anchor buoys, flags, rudder chains, etc., I'll probably never get it done. Do you have a next build in mind?

Hi Tex, this is coming along very nicely. I've been wanting to build the Morgan too - nice to build something without those fiddly cannons. I've actually considered building it alongside another kit just as a break, as I've found on my first (and current) build that I'd get burned out on it and then not pick it up for a few months. Just out of curiosity, how do you find the kit's quality? Are you using any other resources besides the instruction manual?

Nice work Mobbsie - I love the look of copper plates on a hull.

Thanks Frank! I might have to bother you in the future for tips on the sails as I get started. I'm on Hubert's site as well, and think I have a somewhat good sense of how to proceed. Just out of curiosity, are you planning to add flags to your Supply? I was thinking about adding them to my Badger.

I've been missing in action the past few months as my wife had twins at the end of March. It's been a bit hectic to put it mildly, so I haven't had time to hit the shipyard recently. Thankfully the girls are almost three months now and sleeping better, so I'm gearing up to get back to work on the Badger. Here are some pictures of where I left off earlier this year. Most of the standing rigging is done, and I'm about to start on adding furled sails. I'm hoping to finish it before the end of the year as I now have the Corel Unicorn and the Amati Pegasus on my shelf. Between kids and honey-do's, and of course being a complete novice, the build has taken me four and a half years.

BE, thanks for dropping in, I appreciate the kind words. I'm a bit humbled as your build log for your Pegasus is a real inspiration and I hope to one day have half the skill that you do.

Peter thanks for dropping in. I'll check out the Pandora book - it sounds like a good resource. I agree about covering up all those details with a small boat, but maybe if I go with Ian's idea of widening the area it won't be so bad. I have plenty of time before I'm even close so I can think about it some more.

Thank you very much for those references. I downloaded them and will refer to them when I get going on my build. Of course, I spent the last hour reading through Chuck's build log for the Winchelsea - all I can say is wow! Don't know whether to be inspired or disheartened at not being able to build at that high level. Good luck with your plan - you have a lot of guts to go forward with that. I'll be watching and here for support

Hi again Ian, I guess I'm fortunate that Corel made some improvements to the kit. I might try and scratch the transom and stern gallery windows to avoid the use of paint, but that might be a bit ambitious. I took a look at the plans and there is no mention of the year. The instructions note that Chapman's "Architectura Navalis Mercatoria" has a detailed account of the calculation related to the design of the ship. Maybe I'll have to get myself that book. I now understand what you are planning to do with the deck design. I was a bit concerned when I first read your post that you were going to rebuild the ship to have a much smaller waist by taking off the planking, shaving back the bulkheads and then starting again. Must have been a lack of coffee that morning I might do something similar to open the waist. Did you buy plans for the Lowestoft? It looks like a good comparable ship to examine. I have the Amati Pegasus kit and will also take a look at what how that area is constructed on that model. It's a different ship naturally, but the waist area is really opened up: http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Amati/Pegasus/PegasusV7.htm

Hi Peter and Ian, thanks for the info. Thanks also for the offer to help - I'm sure I'll need all the assistance I can get. Interestingly, Corel put 1790 on the kit box, when the Unicorn that the kit was supposedly based on was broken up in 1771 I'll have to check out the modifications that you guys did. I'm less concerned about historical accuracy and more about having a nice model with lots of interesting details. Speaking of details, was it strange to you guys that the model does not have a small boat of some kind? I might look into whether I can add one or not. Ian, here are some pictures as requested. If you'd like others, please let me know!

Hi Ian, thanks for the info and the tip. I'll keep that in mind when I start the build. Do you happen to know whether the ship has 32 cannons? My kit came with 32, but I thought it was a ship that had fewer cannons. I'm assuming that this is the Unicorn the kit is supposed to represent? If so, it looks like there are twenty-four 9-pounders, four 3-pounders on the quarterdeck and 12 swivel guns? I think the kit only came with 32 9-pounders. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Unicorn_(1748)

Hi Ian, thanks for the reply. I'll take a picture of those pieces this evening and upload them here so you can see how the newer kit differs from yours. I probably won't start the build log for another couple of months, as I should probably stay disciplined to finish my Badger before starting the Unicorn. Thanks for the pictures of the model above. Do you happen to know if this ship was copper plated, or white stuff was used? I'm thinking of approaching my build similarly, likely using a color scheme similar to what you see with other Nelson's navy ships of that period like the frigate Diana. This would entail using more black for pieces like the transom, mast tops and wales, red for the bulwark planking and cannon carriages, etc. Here's an example: http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/CKit_Diana_02.htm I have some time before I will start the build, which gives me time to think about and plan for how I will approach the build: 1. Rather than use paint, I will try to use either stains or colored specialty woods for the colors. I prefer the natural oiled or other finish of woods. I see that some of the parts need to be scratch built, so I'll have to build parts anyway. What will be a tough decision is what to do with the cannon carriages - they are very nicely pre-built and finished using a dark wood like walnut. If I want red bulwark planking, the cannon carriages would either need to be scratch built to match or maybe I just leave them the natural walnut color with red bulwarks. 2. The figurehead, which is a bright gold metal, will need to be painted. I might try a tarnished bronze look or paint it to look like it was carved out of wood. I really don't like white paint on models - even using Admiralty paints "dull white," the white comes off as too garish for me. 3. I might try to build the transom and stern galleries from scratch, but maybe using the ornamentation from those parts which I can paint gold or some similar color. That should be pretty challenging though, particularly if I decide to build the windows from scratch to avoid using white paint. 4. If this ship was copper plated, I might just keep the natural wood. If white stuff was used, I might try to simulate it using a very light/white wood like holly. I saw someone else do that under the old MSW, I think on a Fair American build, which I thought was fantastic. Probably way out of my skill level, but I might try. 5. I'll have to decide whether to try using ebony for black areas, or using stains or dyes. I bought a Varathane ebony stain recently, which I'll test out first as I've heard about the various challenges of using ebony (hard on tools, black toxic dust that is hard to clean up, etc.). 6. The kit blocks look ok, but maybe a tad bit oversized. I might replace them with better blocks. 7. Depending on how my Badger's furled sails come out, I might try and add sails to the model. Ouch, looking back at this list, that's a lot of modifications to pursue. I purchased the kit for a very good price (Model Expo recently put up a bunch of Corel kits for auction on eBay which sold for pretty low amounts relative to even retail sale prices), so I think the Admiral will be ok with the added expenditures - that is, if she should happen to find out

My Unicorn kit arrived today. I was actually quite pleased by the kit components. The quality of the wood seems very good (much better than the splintering walnut I had in my Caldercraft Badger kit), and the fittings in general are nice. The only ones I was less impressed with were the the transom and stern gallery buildup pieces - interestingly, there was a notice in the kit that these were replaced by britannia metal pieces. One nice feature was that the gun carriages are mostly assembled (and are assembled well). The instructions don't seem all that bad, and the diagrams and plans are actually quite good at an initial glance. There isn't a 60-page manual like with the Badger, but I think the pictures in the plans more than make up for that (in fact, I think the pictures are better than text). So, I'm very much looking forward to starting the kit once I finally complete the Badger.

Very nice work Mark!

Hi Ian, It looks like my Unicorn is scheduled to arrive today. I'll take a look at it tonight and give my thoughts. I was planning on replacing most of the kit wood with Hobbymill or Lumberyard wood. It helps that I was able to get the kit off eBay for a very low amount. I like the modifications that you are pursuing with your build. Do you have particular plans or references that you are using to help guide you? If you posted them on your build, I apologize for missing it. I'm actually thinking of trying my hand at "painting with wood" and not using any paint at all to the extent practicable, so I'm curious as to the color scheme of the ship (for example, were the inner bulwarks painted red, can the mast tops and wales be black, etc.), and of any additional deck details beyond those in the kit's plans. It sounds like Corel is a bit confused about the history of the ship and what the kit is supposed to represent. All indications seem to point to the Lyme class. I have the Chapelle book which shows the profile plan of a Lyme class ship, and noticed that there were five gunports towards the stern of the ship versus the four on the Corel kit (I think you picked up on this on your build). I'm not all that concerned with historical accuracy with this being only my second model, and regardless of such, it seems that the ultimate model when finished is quite beautiful. It's going to be a few more months before I finish my Badger, as I have 2-month old twins at home. Thankfully they are sleeping very well in the evening, so I should be able to get back to the shipyard in the very near future (I just need to find the energy to work!). If you are open to it, I would love to stay in touch with you and trade ideas on improving the kit (although you are obviously very far ahead of me in your build so the exchange may be more one-sided). I very much appreciate all your thoughts and comments to date!

I'm almost done with the Caldercraft Badger (link below). It's a good kit in my opinion, and a good intro to model ship building. The only knock I have on the kit is that the supplied walnut is not that great - it's prone to splitting, etc. Let us know what you decide!

Hi Harlequin, very nice Greyhound! Hi Thomas, thanks for the info. The Unicorn should arrive later this week, so I'll take a peek at the box components and instructions and report back. I paid fairly little for the kit, so I figure it will be a good training model for me while I attempt more serious kit bashing.

Oh boy, so sorry to see that. That's been a big fear of mine with my build, particularly as I've already had my clothing catch it a few times - not to mention, going to the bathroom and coming back to find my cat batting the bowspirit Good luck on the repair.

I've had pretty good success doing that - there are a lot of tools out there that are used a couple of times and then are sold for less than half the price of retail. I don't know if you have the equivalent of a Craigslist in Australia, but I was able to get a Dewalt scroll saw, used once by the original owner to try it out, for a third of the retail price. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any second hand Byrnes tools on eBay or elsewhere - probably a very good testament to their quality and utility.

Thanks for the links Mark - those are really great!

Thanks guys! I ended up getting a lightly used Sherline 5000 off of eBay today for a pretty low amount. Looking at videos and seeing what people are doing with it on here, even if I stink at it, I know that for sure I'll have a lot of fun playing with it. Jim, thanks for the tip on the book. I'll have to find myself a copy

Ian, AVS and Harlequin, thanks very much for your thoughts Ian, thanks for the links. The Unicorn does seem like it has the potential to make for a nice model. We'll see how well I end up doing with it. Your log is a real inspiration, and hopefully I can pull something off half as nice as yours.