Landlubber Mike

Hi Denis, I'm a newly proud owner of Jim's table saw (and disc sander) as well. Amazing quality, isn't it? I just got an email from Donna that my thickness sander is coming today - woohoo! Enjoy!

While looking up figurehead pictures, I just so happened to come across this 1:48 scratch build of a Unicorn. The builder carved the figurehead himself, which looks incredible. He also made some modifications to the rest of the ship, including a completely different stern, an open waist, open portholes on the quarterdeck (connected by rails rather than a wall), and a crane-type setup off the stern off which a small boat is hung. Very nice build. http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=1318

Hi Ian, For all the issues with the Corel kit, your stem and figurehead came out very nice. I agree though that any modifications to this section would be very ambitious and quite in a different league from the scope of your other modifications I took a look at the Pegasus practicum, and the way Amati does it, the stem for the kit is shaped like a seat (an "L" shape) where a slot in the back of the figurehead sits neatly onto the seat and the legs straddle the stem. Then, you backfill the open area between the back of the seat and the back of the figurehead with wood so that there is no gap between the stem and the figurehead. It is a bit hard to tell on the Chapman plans whether there is an open area or not (probably not), but regardless, it looks like the figurehead area of the stem should maybe extend upward and more forward a bit so that the figurehead sits higher and further back onto the stem. That's going to be a really complicated modification, as from what I recall, you are right that the figurehead in some areas is actually narrower than the stem. I bought a spare figurehead from Cornwall Model Boats as I thought that I might paint one white and other colors and the other in "wood" to see which I liked better. But, I might use the spare to figure out whether it's feasible to cut the figure in half, or cut a slot out in the back. I guess if that doesn't work I can always try carving or sculpting my own The Corel figurehead is actually a nice model to work from for the general design, though it did strike me as being perhaps a tad small for the ship. I could make it a bit larger and wider, and cut a slot in the back into which the stem could sit. It was ambitious to think about carving the stern figures, but carving the figurehead would be a whole other ball game

Excellent work Peter - your sails are coming out very nicely. Well done!

Hi Ian, Yes, I think a ship like the Unicorn would only have one lot of gammoning. My guess is that it would be more appropriate to keep the aft one. I spent a few hours tonight drawing out how the various parts of the stem would be constructed. In doing so, I noticed that the Corel plans differ from Chapman in not only the gammoning, but also in how the headrails (I think that is what they are called) are constructed. In Chapman for example, the lowest headrail runs under the gammoning slot and into the figurehead's rear feet (Corel shows the lowest headrail running above the gammoning slot and curving upward. The upper headrails seem to have a different run to them as well. Another thing I noticed was that the figurehead on the Corel plans fits lower, and more forward, than the Chapman plans and the figureheads generally on other ships. It seems like the figurehead should sit just under the bowspirit, but the Corel plans have quite a bit of space between the figurehead and the bowspirit. Ian, just out of curiosity, how did you fit the figurehead to the stem? Did you shape the stem to fit the figurehead, or did you cut a slot into the back of the figurehead to accommodate the stem? I was a bit surprised that the figurehead is a solid piece. If I remember correctly from the Pegasus kit, the figurehead has grooved slots in the back and bottom so that the figurehead could sit right on the stem. I am thinking that it might be better to make any adjustments, cuts, holes, etc. to parts before they are on the model. Too many times on the Badger I did the modifications once parts were fixed to the model, which led to logistical problems, or worse, other parts that were broken off.

Thanks Nigel! Learned something new tonight

A little present from Jeff at Hobbymill arrived at my doorstep this morning Gorgeous wood and impeccable customer service from Jeff - thank you! Now I just have to learn how to use my new power tools - safely of course! The pear will be used for the hull planking, including the areas to be dyed black near the gunports and stern. Boxwood will be for the deck planking and accents on the hull (rails, headrails, etc.). I'm also thinking about trying to carve some of the decorations on the stern in boxwood. I've been setting up my workshop, and studying plans to figure out how to modify the keel piece. I am going to try building the stem and keel in parts, so I've been drawing things out on the plans (and made copies at my local Fedex Office). Also have been comparing the Corel plans with the Chapman plans and plans for other similar vessels. One discrepancy is that Corel's plans have you add two gammonings to the stem, whereas the Chapman plans and other vessels of that size from my research seem to only have one. Guess one more thing to add to the list of changes. I can't really start much building until my new order of plywood arrives. I ordered two sheets from Micromark, which arrived even more warped than the Corel keel To Micromark's credit, they refunded me the purchase price, and I ordered a stack of 6 pieces of plywood from Hobbylinc that should arrive on Friday. Hopefully one of the six is flat. So, I'll probably practice with my scroll saw and new table saw in the meantime so that I'm a little more skilled when I have everything I need to start the build.

Thanks very much guys, I appreciate the kind words! Frank, the case is 30" x 27.5" x 12" (width/height/depth). The posts can be cut down to size, but I was a bit nervous doing so. I'm actually glad I left them as is as I like the extra space on top. The width barely fit the model, with less than 1" clearance on both sides of the studdingsail booms. It was a bit nerve-wracking because you need to lower the case (without the base) onto the base, and then use clips underneath to lock the base into the case. Of course I kept finding specs of dust and other blemishes, and had to pull the case off three or four times. Thankfully the ship modeling gods were with me, as I figured that with my luck, I would hit a studdingsail boom and pop off a bunch of lines of rigging Alistair, I'm going to do the Corel Unicorn as my next build. The Unicorn is a bit simpler, but I'm planning to do a number of modifications in order to come up with a more accurate build. The Pegasus is probably much more amenable to building straight from the box, but I figured I could use another kit under my belt in order to do that kit justice -- especially with all the gorgeous Pegasus, Fly and other Swan-class builds going on at the moment. I'm strongly considering a second build alongside the Unicorn for those much needed breaks and to avoid burn-out. I probably will do the Charles Morgan, mostly because the Pegasus would be very similar to the Unicorn. But, it seems like the Morgan requires lots of scratching (in large part because the wood and fittings are not very good), so I'm still thinking about which to pursue. Kester, thanks for well wishes. The cut healed fine, and I now have a nice memento in the form of a scar on my palm. The Admiral just shook her head when she saw me bleeding like a stuck pig, but thankfully I didn't need to ask her to take me to the hospital to get stitches

Well it's official -- finally got the Badger in a case. It's interesting how having a model in a case really gives the model more of an aura. Either that, or maybe the glass just helps obscure all the imperfections? The display case is from Model Expo (wait for them to go on sale). The glass is acrylic/plexiglass. I tried to save some money and cut the plexiglass panels myself, but I had problems with the plexiglass breaking cleanly, and the last straw was when a piece broke and gave me a nasty cut on my hand. So, I decided to find someone else to cut the panels for me, and ended up going with Dulles Glass and Mirror (www.dullesglassandmirror.com). Their website was very easy to use to place an online order for custom cut glass, and the package was sent quickly and was well packaged. I highly recommend them. A bit sad that the book is finally closed on this model, but it was a fun journey, in particular since I met a lot of friends through MSW, and now I'm looking forward to starting my next build(s). Thanks again for all the help and advice and support over the years.

Hi Nick, very nice work on your Le Mirage I am about to start the Corel Unicorn, and actually spent last evening mapping out how to modify the one-piece keel piece to add the stern post, keel, false keel, and various components of the stem. Your approach is exactly what I'm planning to do and it's nice to see it executed in a beautiful way One thing I'd note - in my limited research, it looks like the scarph joints for the keel run a bit differently - essentially run vertically, so you don't really see the long joint. I could be wrong though. I'm subscribing to your log and look forward to your progress!

Looking really great Eamonn. Time to go enjoy your drink of choice in celebration before on to the next step of the build

Great choice of a next model, I am looking forward to following your build. Your Vasa came out great, so I have high expectations for this build (no pressure!)

Hi Keith, that's what I was wondering as well. In addition to paints, I wonder if weathering powders would work? For example, I saw that Humbrol has a "chrome oxide green" that could be mixed with other colors to potentially get the color you need. https://www.humbrol.com/shop/weathering-powders/weathering-powders/av0005-weathering-powder-chrome-oxide-green-28ml/

Really nice work guys. For me, it's going to be a close toss-up between the green and brown effects. Just out of curiosity, once you get the effect you want, do you seal the plates with something to help stop any further oxidation? To avoid getting finger prints/oils on the hull, does anyone wear gloves? I wonder though if CA would eat through latex or other thin plastic gloves.

Well I managed to find a coupling of two adapters that provide a really good seal without using duct tape. I have a Fein shop vac, which is in metric and has a 35mm hose. The Byrnes machines' dust port is in inches (I believe 1.75" outer diameter, 1.5" inner diameter). I ended up buying the following two items: Shop-Vac 906-87-19 Universal Tool Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RHKU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bosch VAC003 35mm hose-to-1-1/4" port adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV77S/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I first cut off the largest section (including that square section) and the two smallest sections of the Shop-Vac adapter. Then I slipped the smaller end of the modified adapter into the machine's dust port. The Bosch adapter fits onto the vacuum's hose, and then is inserted into the larger end of the modified adapter. The Shop-Vac adapter is rubber, and the Bosch adapter is plastic, so as you slide the Bosch adapter into the Shop-Vac adapter, you not only are ensuring a tight seal between the two adapters, but also between the Shop-Vac adaptor and the machine's dust port. The fit is very snug when all is said and done, without needing duct tape or other solution. Anyway, just thought I'd share as I spent hours trying to find a solution. Hopefully this helps out others with Byrnes machines that might be using a shop-vac that is in metric size.

Well I managed to find a coupling of two adapters that provide a really good seal without using duct tape. I have a Fein shop vac, which is in metric and has a 35mm hose. The Byrnes machines' dust port is in inches (I believe 1.75" outer diameter, 1.5" inner diameter). I ended up buying the following two items: Shop-Vac 906-87-19 Universal Tool Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004RHKU/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bosch VAC003 35mm hose-to-1-1/4" port adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AV77S/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I first cut off the largest section (including that square section) and the two smallest sections of the Shop-Vac adapter. Then I slipped the smaller end of the modified adapter into the machine's dust port. The Bosch adapter fits onto the vacuum's hose, and then is inserted into the larger end of the modified adapter. The Shop-Vac adapter is rubber, and the Bosch adapter is plastic, so as you slide the Bosch adapter into the Shop-Vac adapter, you not only are ensuring a tight seal between the two adapters, but also between the Shop-Vac adaptor and the machine's dust port. The fit is very snug when all is said and done, without needing duct tape or other solution. Anyway, just thought I'd share as I spent hours trying to find a solution. Hopefully this helps out others with Byrnes machines that might be using a shop-vac that is in metric size.

Amazing work Chris. After seeing your results, I'm taking that approach with my next build, the Corel Unicorn, that I would end up kit bashing anyway. The three primary colors on your Confederacy work so well - I just hope I can execute it half as well as you do.

I did, but maybe I need to look again. I need something that goes from 1.25" to 1.5" or 1.75". Didn't seem like there was anything in that ballpark.

Thanks Al. I went to Home Depot on Friday to find the right size couplers, and couldn't find any that fit what I needed. I might have to look online if the adaptors I bought don't work. Ideally I was looking for something that fit both the Byrnes machines and my shop vac, as I see myself moving the shop vac around from tool to tool, and I wonder if the duct tape would unravel as you move the shop vac in and out of the outlets. Maybe I'm just overthinking things

Nice start Frank, looking great. Should be a really fun model. Good luck with the plywood

Hey Al, Haven't used it yet, as I'm waiting for wood for my next build. It's very compact, runs very quiet, and like I said before, is built like a tank It's going to be nice to not have to hand sand everything Did you figure out the dust port and how to hook it up to a shop vac? I ordered a bunch of adaptors yesterday so hopefully one of them works. The Fein shop vac I got has a 1.25" (more like 35mm) hose, and the Byrnes dust port I think is 1.5" inner diameter, 1.75" outer diameter. It's been harder to find an adapter than I thought. Just out of curiosity, does that big knob to the left of the on-off switch adjust the speed of the saw blade? I haven't turned on the table saw, just fiddled with all the components.

I got mine a couple of days ago, along with the disc sander. These things are built like tanks, very heavy solid construction. The finish is also pristine on them - it's almost a shame that they will get full of sawdust as they look like they should be in a museum. After getting my orders, I decided to suck it up and get the thickness sander (shh, don't tell the Admiral). Thanks Jim and Donna!

Beautiful work on the cisterns! I took a look at your charts last night and was also struck by how much they differ from Steel. Interestingly, the Corel pictures don't seem to show that the masts and yards are overly thick, but maybe it's just their pictures.

Hi everyone, Sorry to bump this thread, but I was wondering if there were any other solutions to the Byrnes dust port adapter issue. I ordered a few of the tools recently, and the disc sander arrived yesterday. I definitely need an adapter fix as my shop vac hose opening is smaller than the sander's dust collection port. The PVC adapter and shop vac telescoping adapter seem like good solutions. Since I'll have the table saw, thickness sander and disc sander, I've also been trying to figure out the most convenient way to set up the shop vac so that I'm not constantly taking off and putting on duct tape. Is it easy enough to install adaptors on each of the three machines, and then just plug the shop vac hose into whatever machine I'm using at the time? I also saw Floyd's interesting approach of building a centralized connection system where the machines are connected to a common PVC tube, and the shop vac is run into the PVC tube: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1423-design-a-modeling-workshop/?p=28268 Any thoughts on the adapter or how to conveniently centralize the vacuuming across multiple machines would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

I bought a second of these benches. The quality for the drawers (as well as the general finishing) was worse than the first one. The worst thing is that I drove 25 miles to the store because they had an in-store only big coupon, I brought the thing home, down into my basement, and found out that the box had two legs of the same side So, had to bring it back upstairs, pack it back into my minivan, and take it all the way back the next evening. The next one didn't have that problem, but two of the drawers are too tight to even use. Not a big deal for me as the drawers are very shallow, but it still is a bit annoying. I think the reason that there are two of the same benches with different serial numbers is that they have two different manufacturers. They originally tried swapping out a leg piece with another from an open box that they had, but when I compared it to what I had bought, the dimensions were slightly different. I also agree with Tim about wishing the benches were a little deeper. I think they are a little over 20" deep. Probably fine for some of the machining work and small detail piece builds that I will do, but I don't think I could work on the model itself on the bench. In any event, these benches are incredibly sturdy and heavy. I doubt that I could build one myself for the $130 or so I spent for them.