MEDDO

To put a webpage link into your post you:

1  type what you want for example

Check out our club Shipwrights of Ohio

2  highlight the words you want to link

3  goto the tool bar at the top of the post and select the icon that looks like 2 links of a chain

4  after you highlight the word and then hit the link (chain icon) you get a pop up

5  now copy/paste your webpage url into the space

6  then hit the button insert into post

7 now your post (and/or signature block) should have those words underlined and you will see the weblink if you hover over it.

Check out our club Shipwrights of Ohio

Wonderful work certainly will be referencing this build many many times in the near future.

6 hours ago, glbarlow said:

I have the BIOGS 2.0. It works great for me and judging by the three layers of filters when I clean them it’s removing plenty of dust. 
 

I know it’s working in auto mode when it kicks on when I sweep the floor. It works for me in my in-house work shop. 
 

Thanks for the comment too c

Query... how often do you need to clean out that model and/or replace the filters?

It has been very inspiring seeing this project progress.  I definitely like small boats and don't think they are modeled enough.  Looking forward to following along watching a master do his thing

Elegant

Fantastic progress Glenn.  Very motivating to come here and see this coming together 

Outstanding description. It looks really good. I’m very glad that you went ahead and made these pieces yourself. Gives me some inspiration so when I get to that step I’ll try that as well

I think you’ll love working on this wonderful kit

I haven’t built very many kits however this is by far a superior kit to any that I have seen. Looking forward to your progress

Glad you stuck with it.  I say many of us started just like this.  It is a far sight better than my first planking job on my Swift

2 hours ago, allanyed said:

will wet the silkspan and not cause the ink to run. 

I used Krylon mattte fixative on my tissue paper run through a color inkjet printer. Worked great

Welcome to MSW!!!  As @Louie da fly mentioned above please start a build log as it really is a great way to get to know everyone and show your work and ask questions.

I would also like to invite you to check out our Ohio modeling club.  Shipwrights of Ohio (formally known as Shipwrights of Central Ohio) has its home base just north of Columbus.  We meet the 3rd sat morning usually at the Westerville public library but as that is no longer an option in COVID-times we are holding zoom meetings instead.  We have members from all over Ohio who participate.  If interested you can pm me or @Feathermerchant our president.  

Wonderful!

On 2/7/2021 at 3:50 PM, ccoyle said:

"Painting" with unthickened epoxy is time-consuming and not particularly fun, but it has to be done.

 

Now, I have a question for you experienced builders out there, like @Bedford. The instructions don't say anything about sanding in-between epoxy coats. Is it a good idea? Optional? Or wait until the second coat is done and sand before varnishing?

When I was building my kayak I thought that doing the epoxy was the easiest part. I was using 1/8 inch lint free rollers which I bought and cut in half and used a small rolling frame for. This was very easy to apply went on very quickly and I would do approximately 1/4 of the hull at a time. I then used a wide foam brush very very lightly dragged across the surface to break up any small bubbles which showed up. This was very easy to do. I did not sand in between coats. I let it dry for approximately one day and then apply the second coat directly on top of it. Overall I believe the bottom of the boat has seven layers and the top only has five layers of epoxy. In the end I didn’t have any retained bubbles in the finish. And then use the random orbital sander and spent quite some time I’ll bring it all down to a very nice smooth finish. After that I use the water reducible linear polyethylene for UV protection which was very easy to roll on as well. I do have pictures of this process in my build log of the Murrelet.

For the frieze on my pinnace I simply used a child’s glue stick.  Worked great

I used the Chuck method on my Queen Anne Barge and the flags came out surprisingly well.

There is a model expo version it’s just that no one on this site has built one before that I can find.

Glad you and the family are doing better.  Wonderful progress there. You have accomplished quite a bit since the last update 

I will happily follow along with this build.  Cant wait to see what’s next

Outstanding model. I very much enjoyed following along.  I will definitely be referencing this as I start up my version

The trim looks wonderful.I am looking forward to the next steps

Really excellent progress there can’t wait to see more

18 hours ago, dvm27 said:

We are hopeful that we may be able to conduct a workshop late next year

That is great news. Looking forward eventually to seeing people again IRL (in real life)

I have always liked this ship.  Very similar to the Swan class but with a full quarter galley and the added interest of the fire mechanism

Very nice result John.  Cant wait to see it in person.

I was wondering about aspen.  I was recently at my local big box store and picked up a piece that is 48x3x1/4 inch and it is pure white with no real visible grain.  Was thinking for deck planking with no complex curves or carving it may work out well.  It is a bit soft but doesn’t seem to “fuzz” too much.  Not sure about staining/painting but for less than 4$ it was worth a try.