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Everything posted by GLakie
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Looking good Jesse! This is one of four of Chuck's ships I intend to stockpile starting sometime after the first of the year. I've gone over some of his practicums of them and I really like the detail he goes over for them.
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Stabilizing a bandsaw (edited by moderator)
GLakie replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
This is a good blade for slicing thin stock or re-sawing. http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx -
Cutty Sark by NenadM
GLakie replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
The chain you made looks great Nenad! I agree with you about just ordering the smaller size, as I don't think anybody could scratch-build a chain that small. I'm glad you're feeling better my friend, and we're all praying for you and your family.- 4,152 replies
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(A page out of Sjor's book) pfffffffffft!! --I was only kidding about the sinking diorama!
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That stack looks 500% better than the kit-supplied one Ken. Nice job! Cheers
- 440 replies
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I've made filler out of wood glue before, but only for wood furniture. Never for something of this small of scale. I do know you'll want to use a "stainable" glue, then use just enough of it to make a thin consistency paste. Be careful though, and try to only fill the area of the hole without getting much on the surrounding wood. The glue/paste will be harder to sand than the surrounding wood, making it easier to sand gouges in it.
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Did somebody say icebergs? Maybe a broken in half Titanic with the bow half dangling from the stern half? I'll shut up now.
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Well--Let me be the first to pull up a stool Dennis! It looks like your talents will be put to good use on this one.
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I see that Jay, and I can see that the main-mast fife rail in the picture mirrors my spar deck plans exactly, also in the plans the fore-mast one is shorter by 2 planks on each side, making it the narrower one. The book must be referring to an earlier time, maybe.
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Your definitely doing your research Jay! Gratings and beams look nice and clean! It'll be a marvel to see it going together.
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Those davits and catheads look great fitted and mounted in place Ken. Really like those "working" sheaves!
- 440 replies
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Truly museum quality work Dennis! You should be proud! Now for a case to display her in? Cheers
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
GLakie replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I'm glad the surgery was successful Nenad. Hang in there and keep the faith. Cheers- 4,152 replies
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Those life-preservers look great Dennis! I've had trouble with CA in the past on certain types of plastic, so like the other guys said, I guess it's temperamental. Cheers
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Depending on the scale, the shot for slingshots would be way too big to be of any use at all on most models. About 1.5 mm is about the right size for this Connie.
- 1,348 replies
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Congrats on your milestone Augie! She looks fantastic, especially with that Swiss-Pear deck planking. Now I'm having second thoughts about using boxwood for my deck.
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I understand that concept of it, where the farther out away from the frame you get, the wider the plank might need to be on the outside, to close the gap. But it seems like beveling the edge, would also close that gap. I don't know, but all that just seems more complicated than it needs to be. Maybe making the marks just a hair smaller to begin with?
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In the "Articles" section of the Database, there a planking practicum by Chuck, that's good and covers this. Also on his Syren site, I think Chapter 3 or 4 of the Cheerful practicum, covers edge-bending with a hair-dryer, without water, that seems like a good method.
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They look pretty good to me, for being so tiny Dave! Cheers
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I actually have seen this one Tom, but never browsed completely. I plan to though. Thanks again! Cheers
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I'm just a little confused about the planking over the curve of the frames. If you mark off where each plank goes on the frames, and between the marks is the width of the plank, then bevel the inside edges of the planks to accommodate the curve of the frames, leaving the outside edge un-touched, there wouldn't be any gap between them if you follow the marks, right?
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They're lined up very nicely from what I can see. Nice job! Cheers
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