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clearway

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Everything posted by clearway

  1. ty geowolf, the mantua model just comprises keel/ bow/ transom and bulkheads so needs extra work to look o.k. the thin frames are my own addition. Keith
  2. ouch bad news with the knee having had problems now and again with my own i know the pain! get better soon and ty for the compliment. Keith
  3. looking nice- not sure how prototypical you want to go but occre have the rigging wrong in places 😒. Keith
  4. looking good, was wondering what was happening to her😁
  5. it is a knack getting the tension on the rigging just right. i will not be putting any rigging in place for a long time yet (always like to get the masts done early to get a feel of how the ship will look), i still have wire eyes to install at the base of the masts to take rigging before i finally glue the fife rails in place as well. Are you going to alter your terror along the same ideas as keith s and myself? Keith
  6. Not been in shipyard much lately due to nice weather and 3m x 2m (10' x7') canopy above rear house door needing built before winter sets in. Had some time off today from D.I.Y. so got the pinrails in the bows to take the running rigging from the bowsprit/ jib boom, also unable to find a decent ships boat measuring 105mm (bought a plastic one but just wasn't realistic) came across this one from mantua , unable to get one from master korabel as all u.k. stockists sold out. not much detail but working on it (still a work in progress), but not too much of a problem as one of the resin boats i obtained a while ago will be sitting in it😉. take care all Keith
  7. looks neat and tidy geowolf, the stern davits will also hide some of the gap when they are in place (i havn't done these or the catheads yet as they always get "knocked" so will leave them as late as possible. Keith
  8. pssst victory should be in the earlier dated post, as she was around 40 years old at time of Trafalgar😁
  9. while i scratch built new chainplates for my victory to replace the billings fittings, i soldered the strop around the deadeye and the lower most link but didn't solder up the middle link (just made the link the twisted to one side to fit then bent back into shape). if you are only replacing the middle links i would recommend anealed iron craft wire which is stronger than brass. if you pull the links apart while rigging you have it too tight! Keith
  10. Ty wahke- i was torn between paint her or leave au natural at the start of the build, but glad i decided to plank her with walnut and leave in the wood finish. Keith
  11. i think a lot of model shops are having problems due to manufacturing being messed up with this covid mess, same is happening with model railway suppliers. Keith
  12. for fittings there is also The Model Dockyard in the u,k, who ship overseas. Keith
  13. Welcome to the hms terror club😁, for further info on how to improve the kit see keith s and my logs where we obtained different spares to upgrade occre fittings (depends how in depth you want to go in altering occres mistakes). Keith
  14. Welcome back. if modelled with gunports closed you would have saved putting the planks along the gundeck😁. There does seem a lot of discrepency with plank thickness on decks though (got to love occre)🤪. Keith
  15. thanks for looking in as always everyone, started to add the tapers to the top/ t'gallant masts and tapered the jib boom. Also found some better looking elm tree pumps which will need painted black. Only the cheeks/bibs on lower masts are glued in place at the moment with the masts just friction fitted together so the might look a bit "wonky"! take care and have fun everyone. Keith
  16. if painting and coppering the hull it wont really matter. if adding second layer of planking it will hide it the same. i used planking battens on my billings victory. Keith
  17. i basically hardly ever refer to the instructions as they have the deck fittings wrong, but i do have many years and builds to draw on🙂. Keith
  18. i hear you there, sometimes think it might have been easier to just scratchbuild her, but your cruiser looks good keep up the good work. Keith
  19. unwritten law of the sea- the admiral is ALWAYS right😁
  20. yeah kit manufacturers can cut corners to suit their standard fittings (you have seen the fun keith s and i have had with occre's HMS Terror)! Keith
  21. hello Keith, I square the mast heads for the trees first as already described earlier in the log, and then using course sandpaper wrapped around an old piece of 2" x 1" wood i start from what will be the narrowest part and twist and sand working the taper further down the mast till roughly how i want it, then use fine paper to finish off. For the mast caps/ hounds i score a line around the top of the dowel to the thickness of the cap, do the same where i want the hounds, then carve out the wood between roughly to shape before using a needle file to round off to thickness- then i work the taper in from hounds downwards if that makes sense. Now have all the sections in place, but still need to taper topmasts and topgallant masts on fore and main along with new mast caps on topmast mastheads, and taper the jib boom. Keith
  22. it is good when all the brain ache comes together and looks like a ship😁. Keith
  23. thanks for looking in everyone, started on the topmast trees (topgallant mast still needs tapered, and new mastcap made). Also after Keith s timely advise made a new tiller using brass stock though still not glued in place yet. take care all Keith
  24. seems strange as caldercraft are among the top kit suppliers compared to occre ,artesenia etc Keith
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