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clearway
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Everything posted by clearway
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Wait till you start sanding the shroud protector/ ice bumper when you come to it😉just go nice and steady- at this stage sandpaper wrapped round a piece of wood might be better for the final finish. Keith -
fantastic Keith- much appreciated - going to be interesting and small😁. Been working on the masts and some of the stern today- this is my take on the mizzen mast- decided to do the hounds in the same fashion as topgallant hounds on later style masts but with no royal. also cut topmasts for fore and main to length using measurements from lees 10th class frigate- starting to get something that's HMS Terror looking😊 take care all Keith
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yep what keith says - check my victory log and you will see the topping lifts and parral beads Keith
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Thanks keith- i noticed those on draughts shown by you and online and wondered where they went! i thought they were maybe mounted on the bulwarks as early examples of jarvis winches. never seen them shown on any illustrations for ships either naval or mercantile on the mast tops- the quandary wrapped in an enigma that is terror continues🤪- yes would love the details and measurements thanks- hopefully be getting the other laptop back monday so will add pics showing tops and topmasts ( the tops and mastcaps arn't actually glued in place yet and most likely wont be til much later so plenty of time to add extras😁😉. Keith
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thanks for likes and looking in everyone along with comments- managed to lever the laptop off the son🤪 the replacement tops and trees for mizzen in various states of construction- still need to taper underside of trees on fore and mizzen. Also rebated the transom so the windows had a bit of a gap behind them and replaced ply sprayrail on bows with 5x2mm planking. take care all Keith
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ohhhhhhhhhhh myyyyyyyyyyyy goddddddddddddddddd- glad i didn't spot this beastie before i got my billings vicky- one word - awesomeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee😉 Keith
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Hi Emmet i left a reply to yput question in terror log- computer has gone for repair so might be delays of a day or two with replies at the mo. keith
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LOL it can be a bit mind boggling on first glance through the book Keith, Hi Emmet- the pin holes are so small they nearly disappear after sanding- i planked the bows like that as terror had second planking- i terminated planks along the runs as the shape of the hull dictated to avoid excessive bending- also a lot of the pins are acting like clamps beside the planks- computer has gone belly up (pinched sons lap top for this so posts will be apart!) started to shape the masts- built the tops supplied for fore and main but altered them as in the following pic. also got the mainmast squared for the cheeks and bibs. also a shot of the fore mast with the top tried out- to square them roughed them with a craft knife till roughly squared then sanded with a sanding block til the top was a comfy fit. also got the sunlights in the deck and the hatch for the chain locker in place. used humbrol clear windows for the glazing. take care all keith P.S. since posting this have started to scratchbuild new tops for main and foremasts as occre have thecross trees butted right up against the mast- hopefully will have comp fixed and get some pics on the log.
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first don't panic! look at the references and simplify them as necessary- yes chain necklace for the futtock shrouds (well spotted😁), terror would have had a jib boom and dolphin striker, but not a flying jib boom (havn't rigged victories yet)- basically use the occre references for building the masts but account for iron bands and the chain necklaces. Keith
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you could cut the head off a panel pin and glue it with the point sticking out the bottom of the mast- when aligned right you can use a little pressure to drive it home- luckily with the book there are loads of diagrams explaining- also if you go to the hms trimcolee website there are some good pics including a nice one of under the top with the blocks for the yard truss. Unfortunately there is no quick way of learning the jargon though there are plenty of dictionaries for sea terminology so wouldn't be surprised if one for free on google somewhere. Keith
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even if coppering her bottom i would add the second planking layer still as you will get a ridge which you shouldn't have- there should be a waterline marked on the plans somewhere- if not it will be a few mm beneath lowest part of mainwhale- i used self adhesive copper tape on my victory (luckily H.M.S. Terror had hers removed due to lack of shipworm in the arctic). Keith
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i have been there in the past myself Keith where i went a bit too far opening holes for masts out- i glued battens down the length of the mast below decks on the model in question to pick up the slack (why i went about it this way on terror 😁). Keith
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if using a 2nd planking layer, just so long as 1st planking is smooth no filler will be needed Emmet Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone, sorted out the masts using the admiralty dimensions and they look about right- also got the capping rails on the bulwarks ( used the 5x2 mm as opposed to the 6x2 mm they instructed). because i upped the diameter of the fore and main masts i had to step them from deck level down to where they slot into the frames as these were meant for the 6 mm dowel not the 7mm and 8mm now used. take care all Keith
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thanks for looking in and comments everyone- just a little session in shipyard, and got the entryways on the bulwarks lined with walnut and planked some of the stern. have fun all. Keith
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that is correct keith yes- i cut a piece of scrap dowel to size indicated and when put in situ it just didn't look right so out came mr lees book! the wierd thing is the dimensions for the topmasts and topgallant masts were about equal to the admiralty order (in the case of the topmasts bang on). Keith
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been doing some research using lees masting and rigging and the closest match regarding mast dimensions on the admiralty order for 1839 are from a 10th class frigate (keith s kindly gave me the mast diameters from his plans) according to lees the dimensions are= foremast (from deck level) = 48' 6" diameter 22" mainmast= 53' 6" diameter 24" Mizen mast= 43' 6" diameter 18" so 7mm dowel for the bowsprit and foremast, 8mm dowel for the main and will use the 6mm for the mizzen. compared to occre plans they got it about right for the mast lengths , but you need to add on the measurement for the mast below decks where they run into the frames. Keith
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another one down the ways well done and great job Keith
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Hi keith- was wondering where you had got to, it's the same in Cumbria you cram all the outdoor work in when it actually stops raining so been working on my garden/ winter messy modelling / spraypainting mancave😁. Over the last week it has only stopped raining for two days😐. Keith
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Ty geowolf and lol @ terrified of terror😄 . I will be using metal plating on the bows as well, though i do have some 10mm wide self adhesive copper strip so might use that instead of the aluminium provided, i planked the bows like i did to act as a guide for the plating. Keith
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Ty Jo-you will find the planking will get better with practice- but normally i go with a painted finish on my ships- this will only be the third one i have built that will be varnished wood finish. Keith
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Ty Rob and ty for the likes and looking in as always everyone- got all the planking finished and gave a bit of a sanding to see how she looks especially around the stern🤔 i don't normally do 2nd planking- after this i can see why🤪. Take care all Keith
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Thanks for looking in everyone- not much happening with D.I.Y. and gardening but nearly done with walnut planking- added more planks to other side and gotthe timber above the propeller opening in place. take care all Keith
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can't agree more- a little patience fairing the frames will save pain later- lay a planking strip along a couple of frames and it will give an idea about how much to sand off- it's a case of sand and check- also the amount of bevel will differ along the frame from top to bottom. Keith
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